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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


STR posted:

Flat tire, big loving screw dead center in the tread, and a nail close to the sidewall. Well poo poo. I was worried Discount wouldn't patch it, since it was almost to the wear bars (also the nail close to the side).

I was right. I went ahead and got the cheapest "better" tire they had in stock, Road Hugger GTP - store brand tire, and I'd talked to them about these tires a month or two ago. They told me who made them at the time, but drat if I can remember now (it was a company I like though). Going back Thursday to get a matching one for the other back wheel, then 2 more for the front once those are worn past 4/32 (one was 5/32, other was 6/32... a few burnouts should take care of that). Also need to get a wheel, one of mine has been slightly bent since I got the car.

gently caress Barum Brillantis tires, btw. Worn out in about 25k, and if someone sneezes on the road you're going to lose all traction. I just want a tire that doesn't think the road is a slip n slide anytime it rains.

The Road hugger Eco-whatevers on our Kia are exactly the same tire as the Kumho Eco-whatevers that were on it previously.
According to da intarwebs, the 3-character code after "DOT" in the sidewall indicates the manufacturing plant. "000" is Kumho's factory in Macon GA, for example. Older plants/tires will have a two-character code, preceded by a "1" on newer tires. Nice and confusing.

http://www.tiresafetygroup.com/how-to-find-dot-number/
http://www.tiresafetygroup.com/tire-dot-plant-codes-sorted-plant-code/

https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/mid/ (Bottom right)
https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/mid/Home...d=0&DOTCode=000


edit: this is something I did not know how to look up previously, BTW. Handy!

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Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Darchangel posted:

The Road hugger Eco-whatevers on our Kia are exactly the same tire as the Kumho Eco-whatevers that were on it previously.
According to da intarwebs, the 3-character code after "DOT" in the sidewall indicates the manufacturing plant. "000" is Kumho's factory in Macon GA, for example. Older plants/tires will have a two-character code, preceded by a "1" on newer tires. Nice and confusing.

http://www.tiresafetygroup.com/how-to-find-dot-number/
http://www.tiresafetygroup.com/tire-dot-plant-codes-sorted-plant-code/

https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/mid/ (Bottom right)
https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/mid/Home...d=0&DOTCode=000


edit: this is something I did not know how to look up previously, BTW. Handy!

lol, a few of us googling the previous stuff saw this. My first thought was how in the hell does Kumho get a 000?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Just looked at mine... SURVEY SAYS:

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Colostomy Bag posted:

lol, a few of us googling the previous stuff saw this. My first thought was how in the hell does Kumho get a 000?

They were the first manufacturer faculty to use the new 3-character designation.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Getting started on my off road cosplay.




Also installed some bedrails made of superstrut to attach jerry cans, shovels, traction boards, and hi-lift jacks.






Anyone got a good source for Zombie Response Team stickers?

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Not going to lie. I really enjoy the look of truck bed linings like that.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

MrOnBicycle posted:

Not going to lie. I really enjoy the look of truck bed linings like that.

I actually just got it sprayed last week. I bought the UV protection which probably gives it that sheen.

Fallows
Jan 20, 2005

If he waits long enough he can use his accrued interest from his savings to bring his negative checking balance back into the black.
Spent all day wiring these, mainly figuring out why I couldn't start my car after wiring it all up. Turns out I blew the 50a ignition fuse somehow(i had the battery disconnected whole time) which you can't get locally and could only find a site selling it in euros, https://www.akr-performance.com/p/eaton-bussmann-fld-fuse-50a-red-48mm-FLD-50 so I "fixed" the fuse for now and it seems to be holding. I got the wrong boost gauge so im using the old one still while I rma mine. Still gotta install my wideband tho and tuck all the wires but im tired lol.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


FogHelmut posted:

Also installed some bedrails made of superstrut to attach jerry cans, shovels, traction boards, and hi-lift jacks.




That’s a cool idea. Need to do that to a trailer a friend has. It has a serious lack of tie down points.

quote:

Anyone got a good source for Zombie Response Team stickers?

Literally any site that caters to Jeep people.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Installing TRD springs and shocks on my xB. Got a late start as usual.



Also installing a wheel spacer kit on the rear wheels, so I decided to do that first. xB's rear wheels are sunk in more than the fronts, the kit will even things out. I broke this cinder block using it to pound out the studs.



Installing longer studs. I was worried at this point because I didn't think my cordless impact would be up for the task, but it did ok I was kind of surprised.



Shims on the front bolts of the hubs to compensate for the toe-in from lowering. I was told this size (1/64) will be enough but I guess I'll find out for sure when it's aligned.



Studs in and spacers on. Also changed the brake pads and did a quick de glazing job on the rotors with a sander :v:



My portable work bench. Got this from work for free and I don't know how i ever lived without one.



Replacing the studs was way more of a PITA than I thought it would be so that's all I got done today, hopefully will have everything finished up tomorrow then I'll post some before and after pics.

spookykid
Apr 28, 2006

I am an awkward fellow
after all

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

Chunjee posted:

2006 Xterra


Replaced this yesterday. My coolant system has been a little wacky lately and I caught the radiator cap leaking the other day so I replaced it as well.



Looks like I got to it just in time. Felt wet from the bottom so it certainly was leaking some portion.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Did a slightly overdue oil change and pulled the front wheels off to check the brakes. Pads look fine, rotors are poo poo. Think I'll just buy some very basic rotors off Amazon and swap them out next week.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006


:perfect:

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Front pads and rotors on the wife's Elantra after noticing the pads were down to pretty much....nothing when doing the struts a few weeks back.

A first for me, whoever touched it last actually anti seized the caliper bracket bolts and they came out without a fight. The rotor screws too! Didn't even have to use the impact driver on those. Unheard of for a car with 60k in the northeast.

e: also, these make cleaning the hub around the studs a breeze. Saw them on the SMA channel. Get you some.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
Got the white painted on the back of the Bel Air. Couple of days we can block down the runs, hit it with 3000 grit, and buff it down.



Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


FogHelmut posted:


Anyone got a good source for Zombie Response Team stickers?

Please don't be that guy.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Please don't be that guy.

I was posting facetiously. My truck is normal looking, I wouldn't daily drive an overlanding bug-out survival rig. I just creep around fire roads on the occasional weekend.

Muffinpox
Sep 7, 2004
Put in a big rear sway bar and rfp1s on the car a few weeks ago. I can’t shut up about how good I think this car looks. The wheels plastidipped are which is coming off, I need to respray them at some point.

Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Apr 22, 2019

hattersmad
Feb 21, 2015

In this style, 10/6
I love RPF1s. BTW, Flatout Graphics makes custom center caps. I got some for my MS3 and they worked out really well.



Never mind the rusty rotors and brake dust.


And since I’m posting in this thread already, this weekend I started running E30 fuel with a new tune. Based on loading logs into vdyno, I got a gain of 40 hp. :effort:

hattersmad fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Apr 22, 2019

ThirstyBuck
Nov 6, 2010

The rotors on my Tacoma were warped so I decided to replace everything and upgrade to Tundra brakes.

Old and crap.



New bits on.



The new calipers are wider and I'm running 2nd gen wheels on a 1st gen truck so there is about a paper's width between the calipers and the wheels. But it fits.



This is what parts of the suspension looks like on a truck that has had it's frame replaced due to rust.



E: Nothing Sockingtonian here but feast your eyes southwest goons.

ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Apr 22, 2019

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Jesus Christ

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Looks fairly clean on the before shot :v:.

On my truck when I replaced the calipers a few months ago they had the same finish as yours. They rusted over in a couple weeks. I wonder what the hell they painted them with.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Colostomy Bag posted:

Looks fairly clean on the before shot :v:.

On my truck when I replaced the calipers a few months ago they had the same finish as yours. They rusted over in a couple weeks. I wonder what the hell they painted them with.

Same. I was mistaken thinking it was painted silver and they went orange in weeks. Wished i had ordered painted calipers or painted them before install.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:
Those brakes are close even on the tundra/sequoia.

I put stickon wheel weights in the center of my rim (since I'm too lazy to do outside/inside), and they hit the calipers on my sequoia.
So there's less than about 1/8" clearance.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Verman posted:

Same. I was mistaken thinking it was painted silver and they went orange in weeks. Wished i had ordered painted calipers or painted them before install.

Well if you painted them it would have flaked off on their super-duper silver caliper paint.

Glad to see some of us are all getting our calipers from the same refurb place that uses a combination of mayo and food coloring to refurbish them.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Found out my cruise no longer works unless I hold up the clutch pedal. :argh:

I guess the spring on the pedal may have broken at the same time as the bushing on the pedal (where the pushrod goes into the pedal)? Really not sure what happened there, but the pedal is sitting almost on the floor right now (and won't fully release until I get that bushing). New bushing will be at the dealer in the morning waiting for me to pick it up, I'll see if the cruise works after that. If not, I'll just jump the switch.*

* IT IS NOT THE SAME SWITCH AS THE STARTER INTERLOCK, THIS SWITCH ONLY DISABLES CRUISE WHEN YOU TAP THE CLUTCH. And cruise on my car turns itself off if the RPMs go up/down by more than a couple of hundred RPM vs what the PCM is expecting. I can knock it into neutral without the clutch, and the engine will only go up about 100 rpm before dropping to idle (same if I try to engage it in neutral, it'll rev just barely enough to make the tach twitch before returning to idle). The starter interlock switch only lets the starter run if the pedal is as far down as it can physically go, it's a completely different switch.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


FogHelmut posted:

I was posting facetiously. My truck is normal looking, I wouldn't daily drive an overlanding bug-out survival rig. I just creep around fire roads on the occasional weekend.

You can never be too sure!! :v:

I spent yesterday in the workshop fiddling with welding settings and attaching nice clean metal into the strut towers of my Supra. It'll be done ............sometime in the next decade. Got the other side to do too, yay road salt and previous owners who cheap out on repairs! At least this way I know it'll be solid for a long time. Still deciding what to do with the bodywork on the rear seeing as the arches have had to be chopped out and basically tubbed. I'm definitely pulling the spoiler off and mayyyyyybe going with these Shine Auto Project fenders moulded in.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Over the weekend, I reinstalled the front suspension on my '79 RX-7, in order to move it out of the driveways to make room for roofers and their big-rear end construction-waste trailer.
Start:


Finish, 3.5 hours later:


Then drag it out into the street:

Gasser attitude altitude.

Also finally replaced the fuel pressure sensor on the Crown Vic. It's been throwing an intermittent P0193 "Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High" for the last year or so. It's rare enough that it passed inspection fine, but it will pop up in less than a week after being cleared. New sensor (Bosch, which is the OEM) was ~$36 + shipping on Rock Auto, but I found it for $20 on eBay. So far, so good.

It's the little guy on the fuel rail to the right (forward in the car) of the EGR:


Couldn't ask for easier to access. The only other part removed was the abbreviated plastic covers the P71s have. Didn't even have to relieve fuel line pressure.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Finished installing springs and shocks.

Before



After



Kinda hard to tell in the pic, but the spacers in the rear made a big difference, it looks like it should now even with the front width wise.

Drives great too, going for an alignment tomorrow hoping for a even better improvement after that. Then a rear sway bar will be the icing on the cake because supposedly that makes the biggest improvement overall handling wise.

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Apr 24, 2019

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
had it dyno'd today. 206whp / 140ftlb. NASA average is 196whp, which means I can run TT4 at 2240lb and hoosiers. disgusting

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Swapped that loving clutch bushing. Put a tiny dot of superglue on it so it'll stop loving rotating out of position.

Pedal still doesn't come up enough to hit the cruise control cutout, a look up under the dash confirmed the spring on the pedal itself popped out of its bracket. :argh: Not sure if I'll be able to fix that without dropping the steering column and pulling the pedal. And I really don't want to drop the column. I've gotta figure out a way to get to the switch to bypass it (it's way the gently caress up in there), and just hope the weight of the (very light, 100% plastic) pedal resting against the pushrod isn't putting any extra wear on the throwout bearing.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!

willroc7 posted:

I did babby's first brake job, putting Zimmerman rotors and Textar pads on my 07 S4. It took me the better part of a Sunday and a few hours of the following evening to complete, even with some help from a friend on Sunday. I saved ~$250 by doing it myself and honestly I'm not entirely sure it was worth the trouble. I immediately tweaked an old slipped disc in my back upon starting. Getting old sucks. The kicker is the stuff that was on the car still had plenty of life left, despite my shop telling me they needed to be done in the next 2500 miles. Not too motivated to go back there now.

On the upside I used the opportunity to put on my summer wheels with brand new summer rubber. The pictured wheel is also brand new because I found it as a spare for $150 with a brand new michelin tire on it, which replaces the worst curbed one I had. New new new, all the new things.



Since doing this I'm getting a distinct popping noise when moving a very low speeds (setting off or coming to a stop, so less than 5mph). Braking seems fine. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


willroc7 posted:

Since doing this I'm getting a distinct popping noise when moving a very low speeds (setting off or coming to a stop, so less than 5mph). Braking seems fine. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Did you bed the rotors in? It could just be the pads kind of sticking to the rotors. Definitely make sure you tightened everything up before doing so.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
I did bed them and the sound didn't appear until about a week after doing the job. It seems to go along with the rotation of the wheel. I'll have to dig in there and make sure everything is tight. I did use a torque wrench so everything should be OK, but....

hattersmad
Feb 21, 2015

In this style, 10/6
Check that all of the wheel lug nuts are tight. Mine came slightly loose after a brake job and had symptoms similar to what you’re describing. Barring that, yeah, just check all of the bolts and make sure nothing’s come loose.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!

hattersmad posted:

Check that all of the wheel lug nuts are tight. Mine came slightly loose after a brake job and had symptoms similar to what you’re describing. Barring that, yeah, just check all of the bolts and make sure nothing’s come loose.

One wheel did indeed have loose lug nuts. :doh:

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



I bought $10 stickers to replace badges I don't have. I'm okay with them.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Mustache Ride posted:

I bought $10 stickers to replace badges I don't have. I'm okay with them.



Approved.

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Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



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