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What hot hatch do you own? This poll is closed. |
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| Golf GTI / R / R32 |
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196 | 0.02% |
| Impreza WRX / STi |
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133 | 0.01% |
| Mazdaspeed 3 |
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92 | 0.01% |
| Veloster Turbo |
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20 | 0.00% |
| Focus ST |
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149 | 0.01% |
| Other Hot Hatch |
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230 | 0.02% |
| Elantra GT |
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1000001 | 99.92% |
| Total: | 1000821 votes | ||
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That's nuts I kinda want one. "This is just my running around GTI"
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Apr 30, 2019 02:29
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I wonder if you can shove a bigger turbo in it. Or a 2.0L
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Apr 30, 2019 02:54
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JamesOff posted:My gf ( No really, what is that?
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Apr 30, 2019 04:48
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etc) joined the GTI club this weekend:
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Correct me if I am wrong but the Up! replaced the Polo because the Polo got to big and essentially became the Golf, right?
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Apr 30, 2019 04:56
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Warbird posted:No really, what is that? Basically the golf version of a fiesta, but a little smaller. They don't sell them in na. Small city car.
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Apr 30, 2019 05:29
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Warbird posted:No really, what is that? VW Up! Which is smaller than a Polo since the Polo got too big because the Golf was small but got too big so the Polo had to be introduced OH NO I'M GOING CROSS EYED
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Apr 30, 2019 06:25
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It is indeed an “up!” GTI. It’s apparently only slightly smaller than the Mk 1 Golf. Next to my Mk 7 it looks tiny, but it doesn’t feel cramped inside and the interior is really nice. It even gets the Golf GTI flat-bottomed steering wheel heh.
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Apr 30, 2019 06:47
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I’m a big fan of 3 cylinder hatches. You can drive them absolutely full tilt and not kill yourself.
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Apr 30, 2019 12:58
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 I have the wash process down to just under an hour. Works for me.
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Apr 30, 2019 23:48
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KillHour posted:I'm not sure I'd want to drive an RS across the entire country. They are fun, but not particularly comfortable for long distances, especially if you're bigger. I drove from Atlanta to Ketchikan, AK in one for a 15 year anniversary present for Hyrulehooker shortly after back surgery. Slept in the back with the seats folded down a bunch of the nights. It was rough but not abysmal. Keep it out of track mode and set the pressure in the tires like the Euro models helps immensely.
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May 2, 2019 01:27
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revmoo posted:
Walk me through your process, I'm always looking for new tips.
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May 2, 2019 21:34
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The loving performance pack brakes will make your wheels take an hour alone. If I weren't selling the car in the near future I'd swap the pads, holy poo poo the dust.
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May 3, 2019 00:54
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Suburban Dad posted:The loving performance pack brakes will make your wheels take an hour alone. If I weren't selling the car in the near future I'd swap the pads, holy poo poo the dust. I just hit it with some simple green and then the hose, all that crap comes right off.
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May 3, 2019 00:55
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Warbird posted:Walk me through your process, I'm always looking for new tips. Step 1: Ceramic coat. Step 2: Rinse off car if lightly dirty. Step 3: Use leaf blower to dry off car. Step 4: Use a topper ie: P&S Beadmaker to keep it fresh and glossy Done in 15 minutes. If moderately dirty, ONR with the Big Red Sponge is pretty good. Seriously, ceramic coating saves so much time.
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May 3, 2019 01:16
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I’ve been using hybrid ceramic wax for a bit now and it’s alright. I’m debating moving to the “real” stuff when I run out of the current bottle.
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May 3, 2019 01:47
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Just read up on some of the negatives that ceramic coatings bring to the table before you make your mind up, especially if you are getting it done by a detailer. A ton of money that can be wasted if it's not cared for properly. At a minimum I'd say that you "need" a garage/drive so that you can wash the car whenever needed. Getting water spots/stuff etching sucks on a coating because you'll need a lot more work to have it fixed. Same with scuffs and scratches. If you polish the car yourself and then put it on it's less of a problem. Stuff like Hybrid ceramic wax can perform almost as well, it just won't last as long. But if you apply it every/every other wash it'll last. Beadmaker is amazing for the looks and slickness, but won't last for poo poo. It has the advantage of being compatible with pretty much anything you put it on. Cheap to use in the US as well. Then there's the whole "Beading vs sheeting" discussion.
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May 3, 2019 06:56
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I'm hoping the test mule Honda running around the ring right now is a Civic Hatchback SiR or something, though an updated TypeR would be okay too.
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May 3, 2019 17:38
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I just want the type R motor in my Si, would be a near perfect car that way. Thr 1.5 is good but needs a bit more juice. The type R is just so silly looking and I really like the coupe style of mine.
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May 3, 2019 18:03
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I don't mind the Type R once you get rid of the ugly stock black wheels, but it is more than I want to spend on a street car. If they release an update maybe I will be able to finally get a used one under $30k  then use it a few times a year for street class global time attack since there is no way my car will compete without going fi
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May 3, 2019 18:07
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BlackMK4 posted:I don't mind the Type R once you get rid of the ugly stock black wheels, but it is more than I want to spend on a street car. If they release an update maybe I will be able to finally get a used one under $30k I see a dude maybe once a week in the parking garage with a black one, we haul rear end up the garage until he parks. Maybe in his mid 60's I dunno.
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May 3, 2019 21:44
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Mk7 GTi, ~32,000 miles. Parked in my garage Thursday, went to start it this morning and all the electrical seemed to work but it wouldn't even attempt to start when I pressed the Start button. Tried it a few times, cycling the power off each time, nothing changed. Was running late, so I left it and took my Jeep to work. First thing I'll check when I get home tonight is the battery, and I'll see if I can start it with my booster pack once it's charged. Is there anything else easy I may be missing? Seems like if the battery still had enough juice to kick all my electronics and a/c on, it would at least try to turn over. But what do I know? In my BMW ownership, I learned that all funkyness should result in checking the battery first.
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May 6, 2019 21:56
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:First thing I'll check when I get home tonight is the battery, and I'll see if I can start it with my booster pack once it's charged. Is there anything else easy I may be missing? Seems like if the battery still had enough juice to kick all my electronics and a/c on, it would at least try to turn over. Orders of magnitude difference in power requirement. I've seen many a dead battery where the dome light / blower motor / dash all works fine when you first hop in, but as soon as you attempt to crank it all shuts off.
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May 6, 2019 22:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Orders of magnitude difference in power requirement. I've seen many a dead battery where the dome light / blower motor / dash all works fine when you first hop in, but as soon as you attempt to crank it all shuts off. I agree. I've had batteries drop a cell in the past, which resulted in around only 10 volts being available instead of 12. Blower, Radio, keyless entry, lights all worked just fine. Wouldn't start at all when I pushed the button. Car started no problem off my jumpbox
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May 6, 2019 22:33
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Hooked up my jumper and the engine started, and the EPC light is illuminated. Will replace battery on Wednesday and see what happens.
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May 7, 2019 01:35
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Hooked up my jumper and the engine started, and the EPC light is illuminated. Will replace battery on Wednesday and see what happens. The light will likely go off once you drive it just a few feet. Do you have a battery tender? If you charge it, let it sit, and then check the voltage, what does it say?
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May 7, 2019 12:21
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Hooked up my jumper and the engine started, and the EPC light is illuminated. Will replace battery on Wednesday and see what happens. It's not still under warranty? Good for mileage, but don't know how old it is at this point.
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May 7, 2019 12:26
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After I started it I let it idle for a couple minutes then drove it around the block a couple times and parked it and let it idle a couple more minutes, and the EPC stayed on the whole time. I’ll have to check on the battery date but the car is just under 3 years old (it’s a lease that ends at end of May) so I know it’s under warranty but I think the battery isn’t covered. I’m out of town and will have to check on it tomorrow.
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May 7, 2019 12:30
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:After I started it I let it idle for a couple minutes then drove it around the block a couple times and parked it and let it idle a couple more minutes, and the EPC stayed on the whole time. I’ll have to check on the battery date but the car is just under 3 years old (it’s a lease that ends at end of May) so I know it’s under warranty but I think the battery isn’t covered. I’m out of town and will have to check on it tomorrow. I'd definitely check. This is from a 2018 manual but: 6-volt/12-volt original equipment batteries are covered for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, for defects in manufacturer's material or workmanship. I assume it still falls under the bumper to bumper warranty which for <2018s was 3 yr. 36k miles.
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May 7, 2019 12:39
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If you’re turning it in at the end of the month just charge that poo poo up, don’t drop $200 for 3 weeks of driving.
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May 7, 2019 12:40
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The battery in my 2016 R died about three years in with the same symptoms yours had. I ended up just replacing it myself with a larger AGM battery that these cars come with from the factory in Europe. If you do switch to an AGM battery you have to make sure to code in the change or the battery charging and monitoring system will freak out and could not charge the new battery properly. The battery tray in these cars can accept multiple sizes of batteries by just adjusting the battery tie down block, it has multiple bolt holes to accept smaller and larger batteries.
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May 7, 2019 14:58
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Got started on pulling the turbo and manifold on my FiST. Engine bay is gross, had to give the valve cover a serious cleaning before pulling the plugs. I've got a huge list of parts and maintenance to take care of this spring. First up is fixing the minor exhaust leaks and heat wrapping the manifold, intake, etc.  
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May 7, 2019 15:28
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What benefits does heat wrapping the manifold achieve and whatnot achieve?
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May 7, 2019 15:37
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Warbird posted:What benefits does heat wrapping the manifold achieve and whatnot achieve? Last track day of last season, it was so loving hot outside that between the ambient heat and my unshielded cat, tubular manifold and bigger than stock turbo ended up partially melting the harness wrap on the firewall. No actual wire damage, thank gently caress. There are other benefits to wrapping a manifold, but for me it's mostly preventative to keep underhood temps down. I may also install vents.
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May 7, 2019 15:44
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Warbird posted:What benefits does heat wrapping the manifold achieve and whatnot achieve? Cooler underhood temps == potentially cooler air charge == more dense air Also the whole "don't melt stuff" thing Vagrant mentioned.
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May 7, 2019 15:47
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Also hi, here's my FiST
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May 7, 2019 15:49
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Warbird posted:What benefits does heat wrapping the manifold achieve and whatnot achieve? Pretty much what they said, and makes your manifold look pretty/less rusted, etc. Keeping that heat in puts more energy into the turbine, but I can't imagine you'll see a power bump or anything noticeable. A pretty simple heat shield is very effective by itself also though. PV, you might want to throw some sort of heat insulation wrap around the wires as well if you haven't. Turned on the A/C in my car for the first time in awhile after winter and have now bought a new cabin air filter.
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 17:35 on May 7, 2019 |
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May 7, 2019 17:32
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Warbird posted:Walk me through your process, I'm always looking for new tips. Broad strokes: - Start with a good baseline detail. These days I just take it to the detailer but the outcome is the same. Get a good wash and clay and remove all contaminants, machine polish if needed. This is by far the most important step. - Keep it garaged. Unless you live in Arizona, pollen, sap, and bird poo poo (the worst!) will gently caress your paint up. This isn't an option for everybody but it's a huge factor regardless. - Wash regularly with the right soap. Any cheap wax-safe poo poo from Harbor Freight is fine, but if you use Dawn outside of a detail you are screwing yourself. - Dry after washing - Quick Detail after washing. Takes five minutes, helps spot trouble areas, makes a huge difference imho. - Use a good paint sealant 2x-4x a year. That's it. My other comment is keep your glass clean inside and out. All car interiors offgas and will build up a layer on the inside glass. It makes a huge difference to keep your glass properly clean. I spend very little time looking after my car. Detail once every two years, wax 2x-4x a year, and wash twice a month in the summer months. The key is getting to that baseline perfect level and then keeping it there. Dirt doesn't stick.
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May 7, 2019 22:01
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Mk7 GTi, ~32,000 miles. Parked in my garage Thursday, went to start it this morning and all the electrical seemed to work but it wouldn't even attempt to start when I pressed the Start button. Tried it a few times, cycling the power off each time, nothing changed. Was running late, so I left it and took my Jeep to work. Bad cell is exactly what did this to my Mk7, probably even fewer than 32,000 miles. It seemed sluggish to crank for all of three starts then would click and fail to crank. Autozone diagnosed it as just about 12.1V but could see the bad cell as well with that gnarly battery tester they use.
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May 7, 2019 22:55
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man i wish the mercedes a45 hatch would come to the usa cause that thing is dope as gently caress
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May 7, 2019 23:25
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revmoo posted:Broad strokes: Can you elaborate a bit on the polishing? I do all the other steps (besides the garage and detailer), but I've started noticing imperfections in the paint finish as of late.
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May 8, 2019 02:48
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