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Neslepaks posted:Check out my polish. Looks great. What process did you use?
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Apr 22, 2019 19:17
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The process wherein I apply polish with a rag.
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Apr 22, 2019 19:24
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Not really nautical, and certainly not insanity, but I spent the last 3.5 days chugging around the Norfolk Broads on the floating equivalent of a VW camper and it was great!  25-footer cabin cruiser, slept two, cooker, loo/shower room, hob/oven, TV/DVD player, Webasto heater, sliding roof. Could turn virtually on its own length with a burst of power.  Said power supplied by a 3-pot 20hp Nanni diesel. Never went above 2000rpm and it sipped its way through 42 litres of diesel in 16 hours of travel. Covered about 35 miles in total.           This is living the dream; riverside thatched cottage AND a classic wooden motor cruiser tied up out front. They must have someone come in every week with the varnish and chrome polish. I was horribly envious until... ...I saw this. Small, modern, boxy house - with a goddam steam cabin launch moored in the front garden  BalloonFish fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Apr 22, 2019 |
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Apr 22, 2019 19:51
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BalloonFish posted:Not really nautical, and certainly not insanity, but I spent the last 3.5 days chugging around the Norfolk Broads on the floating equivalent of a VW camper and it was great! Bloody hell you had the weather for it!
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Apr 22, 2019 22:29
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I spent my whole winter stressing about deck hardware but that’s done so I pulled the sails out of the closet.  Aw, gently caress. The leech tape is split, and missing stitching from the top 3”. And there’s a tear in one layer of the sail running parallel with the headboard. Bottom 2/3 looks okay though. (Click pic for gallery) I’m thinking about patching the tear and then running a handful of straight stitches radiating from the head across to reinforce it. The another patch on the leech and the. Lots and lots of straight stitching. It won’t be perfect but hopefully it will hold up for one more light-air lake sailing season.
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Apr 23, 2019 21:03
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Boys who love boys
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meltie posted:Bloody hell you had the weather for it! We really did! Booked the trip ages in advance and just absolutely lucked out with a perfect weather window. monsterzero posted:I spent my whole winter stressing about deck hardware but that’s done so I pulled the sails out of the closet. I've seen good results with using lengths of webbing straps/sail ties stitched around the leech in the most damaged areas to put some strength back into the region and give the new stitches something to 'bite into' as a 'get you home' repair and a 'one more season (that's still in service three years later...)' fix.
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Apr 24, 2019 00:22
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BalloonFish posted:I've seen good results with using lengths of webbing straps/sail ties stitched around the leech in the most damaged areas to put some strength back into the region and give the new stitches something to 'bite into' as a 'get you home' repair and a 'one more season (that's still in service three years later...)' fix. That’s kind of what I’m imagining I’ll do. No lofts in town so I’ll show it to the saltiest sailor I know later this week and get his opinion. I’ve got a feeling I’m going to drill out the headboard rivets and have an upholstery shop sandwich the top panel with new Dacron and stitch some webbing onto the leach. Or I can try diy and break my wife’s sewing machine.
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Apr 25, 2019 06:45
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 hello there you know what's really hosed up imho? a 41ft grp boat has a lot of loving gelcoat on it, and that gelcoat needs - no, deserves - polishing  No but seriously though today was great. We didn't actually polish much yet, but we removed the cover tarps and gave the entire boat a good wash. We also got around to throwing out a bunch of horrifyingly 1970's tableware in various shades of brown, as well as some other odds and ends (the purchase was an all-inclusive deal, since the previous owner is 85 years old and doing the death cleaning thing, so we got everything and the kitchen sink - lifejackets, tools, spare parts, a garden hose exclusively used for washing the boat, etc etc - and we were told to just throw out or donate anything we didn't like).   You can clearly see where we've washed and where we haven't. Not up to Neslepaks' standards yet.
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Apr 27, 2019 23:07
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You have a nice smooth machine-friendly hull unlike me so you should be able to get to my level in notime 
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Apr 28, 2019 16:00
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Btw shook a guy's hand on friday so she's sold. 
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Apr 28, 2019 16:02
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Neslepaks posted:Btw shook a guy's hand on friday so she's sold.  Have you decided on what to get next? Will you be boatless this season?
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Apr 28, 2019 16:37
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It's looking more and more like a gap year yeah. I sort of don't have time to give the hunt the attention it needs, plus we're kinda making other types of vacation plans for the summer. That said, if the right boat comes along priorities could get rearranged quickly, I suspect.
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Apr 28, 2019 16:59
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Neslepaks posted:It's looking more and more like a gap year yeah. I sort of don't have time to give the hunt the attention it needs, plus we're kinda making other types of vacation plans for the summer. That said, if the right boat comes along priorities could get rearranged quickly, I suspect. After last years summer, this is probably the best time to sell. Will you be able to get berthing for a new boat easily if you go boatless for a while? Spring preparations are mostly done. The complete rats nest that is this boats electrical system is slowly worked through. I haven't had the strength to sort out the mess under the console, but I installed new fuse boxes. The old ones didn't clamp the fuses properly and where pretty corroded. I got tired of helping the rest of the family troubleshoot it over the phone. Offending article in the bottom right of the picture. I don't have a picture of the new one  Fun fact: All the red and black wires in the top of the picture are only there to light up the toggle switches when engaged. Why is that not internally wired in the switches?
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Apr 29, 2019 14:24
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Welcome to every boat DC panel ever. Also,  at the old German fuses, with exposed fuse wire. It's good that you replaced it. If you put dielectric grease on the fuse legs, they won't weld themselves into the fusebox over time.
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Apr 30, 2019 03:29
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I feel like electricity shouldn't require lubrication, drat it :<
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Apr 30, 2019 04:28
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Humbug posted:After last years summer, this is probably the best time to sell. Will you be able to get berthing for a new boat easily if you go boatless for a while? That style of fuse is less than optimal, however you had the bad kind there. Those appear to be the aluminum style which corrode on contact with the copper/brass/whatever spring terminals that hold them. The correct fuses to use in those holders are the ones with copper end caps. Once I changed them all out in my my car, all my problems went away.
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Apr 30, 2019 11:34
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Thanks for the tips guys. The clamps didn't clamp properly so the fuse block was gone no matter the corrosion. I've changed to normal blade fuse holders now. Not sure why a 97' model boat would have that style of fuse holder. I have those fuses in my 69' VW bug as well. One time i got in it and thought "Weird. I don't remember having a under dash light" only to find that a blown fuse was arching. After the fact, I spoke with a friend who worked as an offshore electrician previously, and he swears by Wago connectors for both high and low voltage. After investigating, they seem perfect for my application and i wish I had went with those. They don't seem to be available to private buyers around here. A tip for those looking to replace their own fuse blocks. https://www.rapidonline.com/wago-282-series-din-rail-mounting-standard-automotive-fuse-holders-519974
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Apr 30, 2019 12:06
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 And just like that she left me. 
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May 1, 2019 20:58
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The two best days of boat ownership. The day you buy it and the day you sell it.
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May 2, 2019 00:32
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Since we’re talking electrics, just a reminder to everyone to use MARINE wire; it’s expensive for a reason. (It’s made of smaller strands to hold up better to vibrations)
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May 2, 2019 02:33
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FrozenVent posted:Since we’re talking electrics, just a reminder to everyone to use MARINE wire; it’s expensive for a reason. Less expensive here: https://www.genuinedealz.com Same with the heat shrink crimps.
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May 2, 2019 11:31
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Also the tinned copper of proper marine cable resists corrosion at the connections better or something.
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May 2, 2019 18:56
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Spent the last two weekends doing a lot of polishing, cleaning every nook and cranny and general prep work. All done now, we launch on Friday. Poking around has of course given me a long list of projects though. Let me introduce you to Ms. Penta, who turns 40 years old this year. More specifically, it's an MD7, a 0.74 liter two-cylinder four-stroke diesel making 13 horsepower at the propeller shaft at 2600 rpm. The gray vertical tube on the left is the heat exchanger for the closed loop freshwater cooling system (installed at some point in the early 1990's), and one of the many items on my hit list for the immediate future involves it. I replaced the zinc anode at the top today, and for once internet forums posters agree with the manual that you need to replace this every year. The one that I took out has probably been there for at least 3-4 years and was pretty much completely gone. Some stuff that I can only describe as zinc mud fell down into the heat exchanger when I removed it. I don't think that's necessarily an immediate problem, but I'll have to remove the heat exchanger at some point and clean it. It may also be corroded inside; the green discolorations around the hose fittings are suspicious. A replacement one is 500€  Among other issues that need fixing as soon as feasible are some rather big cracks in the gelcoat around the tiller mounting and the seacock for the bilge pump (the thru-hull mounting itself looks fine, but the seacock is stuck open - it's above the waterline, but only barely). Electrical system probably needs an overhaul too, and I'd really like a new generator since the original is only 35A. Also, the pprevious owner saw no need to replace working lightbulbs until they broke, so both the interior lighting and the running lights are incandescent in tyol 2019. Wasting 10W of power on a tiny little bulb when I can use a 3€ LED that draws less than 1W is just bizarre though, so out they go. Other than that the entire boat is in... pretty dang nice shape, I'd say. Always a bunch of things to fix on a boat of course but almost everything I've poked around seems in good working order even though some things are a bit worn. The mainsail is from 2010 and very little used, furling jib from 2005 and similarly nice shape. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 22:33 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 22:10
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quote:Wasting 10W of power on a tiny little bulb when I can use a 3€ LED that draws less than 1W is just bizarre though, so out they go I bet the cabin is cooler without those little 10W heaters running!
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May 18, 2019 22:41
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TheFluff posted:Spent the last two weekends doing a lot of polishing, cleaning every nook and cranny and general prep work. All done now, we launch on Friday. Poking around has of course given me a long list of projects though. Nice. I'd agree that heat exchanger looks 'suspicious'. Especially with it being vertical it's probably got a bit of sludge and scale in the raw-water side (as well as old pump impeller blades blocking a couple of the tubes...) I do like old Volvo-Pentas, even though the parts costs theses days are astronomical. I spent a pleasant weekend a few summers ago coaxing a Penta MD2B (older 1.12-litre 25bhp engine with separate cylinder blocks and heads) into life after sitting in a ghastly old sailing yacht that had been on a mud creek mooring for 12 years and a friend had just bought as part of some absurd 'cheap boating' scheme. One cylinder liner had cracked and the cylinder had filled with water (fortunately fresh, as like yours the engine had had a twin-circuit cooling system fitted to it at some point) and the engine had seized. Managed to free off that cylinder enough to dismantle the engine in-situ and take the cylinders ashore. New liners were something like £450 each from Volvo. Just for the sake of getting some sort of life into the boat we put the engine back together with a horribly bodge of liquid-metal in the cracked liner. Flushed the fuel system through with fresh diesel from a one-gallon can in the cockpit, bypassed the control panel (all the switches and lamps had corroded into a white powdery mess), hot-wired the dynastart directly, squirted a bit of engine oil down the bores to seal the rings and the thing clanked into life on the third revolution. The bad cylinder had low compression so it was only running on one-and-a-half cylinders but it ran!
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May 19, 2019 00:45
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BalloonFish posted:Nice. I'd agree that heat exchanger looks 'suspicious'. Especially with it being vertical it's probably got a bit of sludge and scale in the raw-water side (as well as old pump impeller blades blocking a couple of the tubes...) Man, that's pretty awesome that you got it actually running from a state like that. I'm not much of a mechanic - I have never owned a car, all the engine maintenance I've done has been on small marine diesels - so I'm really hoping to avoid any major internal repairs for the next few years. It ran perfectly when we bought the boat last fall (started without issues, basically no smoke, no weird vibrations, drove the boat at a steady 6 knots, ran up to near-redline without any complaints) and I have quite a bit of documentation that indicates it's been pretty well taken care of, so I'm hopeful. I think I'll tackle valve adjustment at some point this year at the very least though, just to have it done. Never done it before on any engine. The plan is to keep it for as long as it works. A new diesel in about the same size from one of the many firms that marine-ize small industry diesels (usually from Mitsubishi, Kubota or Lombardini) is at least 5000€, and a new saildrive is probably needed too, adding another 3000€ or so, and then you need to install the thing. The current saildrive (Volvo Penta 110S) has a very low gear ratio because of the original engine's low redline, and while there are adapters for many modern engines available, the newer ones almost universally have a 3600rpm redline and as far as I've understood it that would simply make the prop spin too fast. You can of course just get a bigger engine and run it slower, but that's also expensive, and never getting up to proper working temperature isn't good either. late edit: I should say the freshwater cooling loop is an aftermarket item. Volvo's OEM parts are hilariously expensive here too, but since there are so drat many Pentas in this country there's a pretty decent market for aftermarket parts, at least for the commonly serviced stuff. I can get all kinds of gaskets, thermostats, filters, pumps, exhaust elbows and even injectors without ruining myself, but rarer stuff is mostly unobtanium. I'm unsure if piston rings are available at all from anyone, for example. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 23:20 on May 19, 2019 |
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May 19, 2019 14:03
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Volvo parts prices are insane. Even parts for their gas engines, which are just Chevy blocks, are jacked up. And if it’s more than 20 years old, everything is discontinued and you’re buying some NOS poo poo that’s 10x the original high as gently caress price. loving Volvos.
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May 23, 2019 23:05
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Are boats not subject to the same emissions requirements as land vehicles? Say I had a 35 foot sailboat with a Yanmar diesel or something and I wanted to repower it, and I bought a brand new engine. Would that engine have to have urea injection and aftertreatment and such? None of the manufacturer websites I've spend literally minutes looking at said anything about Tier 4 emissions requirements.
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May 24, 2019 00:30
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boxen posted:Are boats not subject to the same emissions requirements as land vehicles? Say I had a 35 foot sailboat with a Yanmar diesel or something and I wanted to repower it, and I bought a brand new engine. Would that engine have to have urea injection and aftertreatment and such? None of the manufacturer websites I've spend literally minutes looking at said anything about Tier 4 emissions requirements. As far as I know for personal pleasure craft, no, they are not.
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May 24, 2019 00:35
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Recreational, no restriction. Feel free to put a 6-71 in and smoke everyone out. Commercial? Loads of restrictions and Tier requirements. Lots of lobstermen around here have taken government assistance to upgrade to newer diesels. Better fuel economy, lower emissions, and safer boats.
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May 24, 2019 02:49
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 We're live  This is at the visitor dock, we leave for our new permanent berth on Thursday. Only ~45 nautical miles but it's our first real trip so I'm excited.
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May 24, 2019 19:15
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There are emissions restrictions on outboards at least, which is why they've all moved to four stroke and direct injection two stroke.
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May 24, 2019 21:14
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TheFluff posted:
 That’s a really pretty boat. Refresh my memory on make and model?
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May 24, 2019 21:22
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In the EU the Recreational Craft Directive has some emissions restrictions for boat motors that are supposed to apply on "major engine modifications", but I have no idea how strict they are. I looked up a few small diesels sold as new today and all of them claim RCD compliance.MrYenko posted:
It's so pretty The type is called S-30, where the 30 originally referred to the intended sail area in square meters*. It's supposed to be a GRP imitation of the Scandinavian skerry cruisers (or square meter yachts) which were popular back in the 1910's and 1920's. Drawn up by Knud H. Reimers who was one of the big names for this type of boat. Most S-30's were built by a Swedish wharf called Fisksätra in the 1970's, but as production wound down around the early 1980's I believe there were a few sold as DIY kits. Around 300 were built in total. Mine is a late production example (1979) and has an updated doghouse that Reimers apparently wasn't a fan of (they got someone else to do it). It's very long (41 ft), narrow (just over 8ft beam), quite low freeboard and a lot of fun. I love it. They don't make 'em like this anymore! * The class association got together and agreed on an updated sail plan in the early 90's which increased the sail area by moving the forestay forward and increasing the size of the main triangle. These days she's carrying 42 sqm in just the main and the furling jib, and included in the purchase was also a 30 sqm genoa that I doubt I will ever use. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 21:45 on May 24, 2019 |
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May 24, 2019 21:40
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Boat update: it leaks. Much like every boat ever. It's from above though and not from below, which makes it far easier to deal with. More specifically, in the cockpit floor there's a threaded brass mount for a table leg that hasn't been used for probably 20 years (there is a different system for mounting a table in the cockpit now), and it seems to have gradually worked itself loose from the sealant. The floor is a very period correct fiberglass-balsa wood sandwich, and the balsa around the mount has started to rot. Since the mount isn't used anymore (we don't even have the threaded rod that would fit in the blind hole) I'm thinking I should just get rid of the mounting entirely, scrape out a centimeter or three of rotten balsa, tape the bottom of the hole from below and then just fill the entire thing up with epoxi, and be rid of the problem once and for all. Thoughts?
TheFluff fucked around with this message at 17:06 on May 26, 2019 |
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May 26, 2019 16:58
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TheFluff posted:Boat update: it leaks. Much like every boat ever. It's from above though and not from below, which makes it far easier to deal with. More specifically, in the cockpit floor there's a threaded brass mount for a table leg that hasn't been used for probably 20 years (there is a different system for mounting a table in the cockpit now), and it seems to have gradually worked itself loose from the sealant. The floor is a very period correct fiberglass-balsa wood sandwich, and the balsa around the mount has started to rot. Since the mount isn't used anymore (we don't even have the threaded rod that would fit in the blind hole) I'm thinking I should just get rid of the mounting entirely, scrape out a centimeter or three of rotten balsa, tape the bottom of the hole from below and then just fill the entire thing up with epoxi, and be rid of the problem once and for all. Thoughts? Do it. You might be scared to find out how far that rot's spread... but you probably need to know before you put your foot through it? I get so annoyed at people that drill holes in yachts then wonder why they leak.
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May 26, 2019 17:47
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meltie posted:Do it. You might be scared to find out how far that rot's spread... but you probably need to know before you put your foot through it? Unfortunately I wouldn't be too surprised to find that the rot is rather widespread, yep. It's to be expected from a GRP boat this old - I've seen even worse on newer boats, and the fact that I've only found one leak is actually better than I expected. I'm not too thrilled with the idea of cutting up the entire floor though, so epoxy will have to do for now. It's mildly annoying that I didn't find this before I bought the boat or I could probably have gotten someone else to fix it on the previous owner's dime, or just saved myself some cash.
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May 26, 2019 18:00
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If it wasn’t that leak, it would be somewhere else. I rebedded all of my deck hardware this winter but I’m still getting rain in my bilge. All that’s left is the hull deck joint... If the hole in your deck is bigger than an inch and you’re excavating the core I would be wary of just filling it with epoxy and calling it a day. I’d expect the deck to flex around it, and since solid epoxy is very hard (and brittle) it or the adjacent deck would probably crack around the margins of the repair. The ideal fix would probably be to replace the soaked core and then patch the fiberglass deck. That sucks because it’s going to leave a big ugly scar unless you’re really good at boat fixin’ or end up doing a lot more work. If you have access to the backside you could go in from there, cut out the core, replace it with some epoxied up plywood and then lay up a couple of layers of glass on the underside. Then you could go back to the top and do a smaller fg patch. No easy answers in boats. Only pain or 
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May 28, 2019 17:02
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monsterzero posted:If it wasn’t that leak, it would be somewhere else. I rebedded all of my deck hardware this winter but I’m still getting rain in my bilge. All that’s left is the hull deck joint... The hole is about an inch in diameter, or maybe slightly smaller. I agree that just pouring pure epoxy in there is probably not a good idea, for several reasons - it's gonna be a lot of epoxy, for one, and pouring that much at once is gonna develop a lot of heat while it's setting. I was considering patching the bottom of the hole with fiberglass weave and epoxy, then doing ??? to the void in the middle (maybe fill it with plywood or something, as you say) and then sealing up the top with more epoxy/fiberglass. I do have access to the underside - it's cramped, but I can get in there. I don't mind scars that much because the hole is going to be under a wooden... what do you call it in English, duckboard? Floorboards with half-inch wide gaps between them? Anyway, it's really not very visible.  In this pic I'm standing in the cockpit facing aft (so aft is at the top of the image), with the floorboards removed. The floor immediately gets disgusting underneath it as soon as it rains, pretty much, but you can also see where the cross-beam supports for the floorboards sit when they're put in there. The offender is the round hole near the top. Underneath it is the rear compartment, with two bunks in kind of an U shape, with the bottom of the U towards aft. The hole and the leak is in the middle of the U, where the bunks are separated by the cockpit. There's maybe a foot of clearance between the rear compartment floor and the cockpit floor above it. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 19:18 on May 28, 2019 |
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May 28, 2019 19:02
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On the plus side, if the core is rotten it probably doesn’t go past that drip channel, so you’re looking at maybe 1 square foot of bad core. Once you get the fitting out you can poke around and see how soft it is. You can also tap with a hard plastic mallet and listen for bad core areas, the mallet will bounce if the core is good and thud where it’s bad. If it doesn’t extend too far from the hole you might be able to get away with just digging out the bad stuff and filling with thickened epoxy. Then I’d use a hole saw to cut a piece of plywood that will fit the hole, put some tape on the underside to hold it in place and fill around it with some neat epoxy. Then I’d sand a bevel around the hole maybe 1/2” (depends on how thick the glass part is) and then lay down layers of glass of decreasing diameter (so biggest on bottom) until it was levelish with the rest of the area. Then bevel and glass on the inside of the hole (overhead sucks, you can put wax paper over it to keep it from dripping all over). Then fair and finish to taste. Or just cover it with the duckboards and be done. If the core is bad in a larger area, you might want to cut the top skin off around the perimeter of the area, dig out and replace the bad core, and then glass over the top. The cockpit sole is a place where you want to do a proper repair because it’s pretty much guaranteed to be wet, and there’s probably a berth under that leak. A quick patch won’t last long, it’s a high traffic area. Plus it sucks when you step down and feel the sole deflect a bunch because the core is dead.
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May 30, 2019 00:47
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