|
Jaded Burnout posted:Hopefully they won't get board making a bunch of them Congrats! Looks great! Now make 75 more of them!
|
#
?
May 7, 2019 22:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 10:35 |
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Woodn’t that be awful? You joke but that’s basically what I’d have to commit to if I am to be in the Holiday catalog.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2019 22:35
|
|
|
Well buckle down and hopefully you don't have too many more problems finishing.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 00:04
|
|
|
I’m looking for advise on refinishing some outdoor picnic tables. We’ve got some IKEA kids picnic tables that claim to be acacia and I want to strip or sand them down and put something that will hopefully protect them and not require refinishing every year. I’ve seen spar varnish/urethane or possibly Epifanes being mentioned as good options. Does anyone here have any suggestions on what to use?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 00:42
|
|
|
Pissed Ape Sexist posted:Well buckle down and hopefully you don't have too many more problems finishing. That’s what she said.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 03:06
|
|
|
Falco posted:I’m looking for advise on refinishing some outdoor picnic tables. We’ve got some IKEA kids picnic tables that claim to be acacia and I want to strip or sand them down and put something that will hopefully protect them and not require refinishing every year. I’ve seen spar varnish/urethane or possibly Epifanes being mentioned as good options. Does anyone here have any suggestions on what to use? woodworking for mere mortals and the wood whisperer have both done clips on outdoor finishes, and having to go back and refinish outdoor furniture. I forget what the end result was though, so have fun.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 03:28
|
|
|
Feenix posted:That’s what she said. Lol heyooooo
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 03:33
|
|
|
Perhaps it's just me but I prefer oils over barrier style finishes for outdoor furniture.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 06:11
|
|
|
Discuss
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 06:18
|
|
|
Gonna suck trying to clean the corners, and it bugs me how the left front edge lines up with the concrete top, but the closest edge overlaps. Also, the gap difference on the left hand side.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 07:04
|
|
|
so i'm just getting into this stuff and i'm working with japanese hand tools. i've made a mallet and am gonna make a toolbox next, but i'm not quite sure where to go from there to work on gaining joinery skills any advice?  here's my mallet. it's far from perfect, but considering this was the first time i'd ever touched any of these tools i think it's a fine enough first attempt
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 07:18
|
|
|
Boxes. Lots of boxes. Different sized boxes. Boxes with mitred corners. Dovetail boxes. Jewellery boxes.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 08:55
|
|
|
mikeycp posted:so i'm just getting into this stuff and i'm working with japanese hand tools. i've made a mallet and am gonna make a toolbox next, but i'm not quite sure where to go from there to work on gaining joinery skills Anything that involves more than one piece of wood will require joinery of some kind. Anything you can make for your workshop is a good place to start since it doesn't need to be perfect and it will always provide some utility, no matter how many mistakes you make. Stuff like a sandpaper holder, boxes or drawers for storing tools etc. Get started on that toolbox and see how you go! Do you have a workbench or having you been doing everything in the traditional Japanese style? Also, nice mallet!
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 09:05
|
|
|
Granite Octopus posted:Do you have a workbench or having you been doing everything in the traditional Japanese style? thanks! i've been doing it japanese style. gonna make some j-sawhorses at some point to elevate things a bit though. i figure if i end up wanting a workbench eventually i'll make it since that seems like The Way To Do It
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 10:19
|
|
|
Looks alright... for now... I wish that Walnut had a better life elsewhere though. mikeycp posted:so i'm just getting into this stuff and i'm working with japanese hand tools. i've made a mallet and am gonna make a toolbox next, but i'm not quite sure where to go from there to work on gaining joinery skills I had good practice with mortise/ tenon and rabbet joints when I made a couple of Krenov style sawhorses and an english style knee height sawbench. Those were also immediately useful for every other project.
|
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 12:14
|
|
|
About to stain pine to a dark walnut, using the pre stain conditioner I'm thinking it won't be nearly as dark as I want it. Should I try a gel stain or drat the torpedoes and just use the penetrating stain without conditioner?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 13:59
|
|
|
The only thing I can think of is that they don't do a lot of cooking in that kitchen. I have a big farmhouse sink and it's constantly getting the poo poo beat out of it with large pots and pans. And there's water going through it at least hourly when everyone is home and larger preserving projects have water in the sink all day long. Even the porcelain gets scratches and dings. I can't imagine how quickly that's going to be a pain and get gross.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 15:12
|
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:About to stain pine to a dark walnut, using the pre stain conditioner I'm thinking it won't be nearly as dark as I want it. Should I try a gel stain or drat the torpedoes and just use the penetrating stain without conditioner? Always do test pieces when figuring out finishes you haven't done before. Try with and without, in other words, and decide which you like better. This is going to be mildewy or outright moldy in no time, impossible to clean, and very likely leaky (check that gap between the left side wall and the countertop above it!). It also doesn't even look all that good IMO, especially the sharp contrast between the board the faucet rests on and the back of the sink.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 15:25
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Perhaps it's just me but I prefer oils over barrier style finishes for outdoor furniture.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 15:45
|
|
|
NPR Journalizard posted:woodworking for mere mortals and the wood whisperer have both done clips on outdoor finishes, and having to go back and refinish outdoor furniture. I forget what the end result was though, so have fun. Thanks for pointing me towards those two. It looks like they took very different approaches, with Woodworking for Mere Mortals going down only the staining path as his experience using Spar Varnish was not a good one. And the Wood Whisperer went to the extreme of epoxying the entire top and then using Epifanes over that. Which I'm sure produced a beautiful long lasting finish, but for a kids picnic table, I'm not willing to go to that extreme. Mr. Mambold posted:
His Divine Shadow posted:Perhaps it's just me but I prefer oils over barrier style finishes for outdoor furniture. Any particular kind of oil? Something like a Danish or Teak oil?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 17:20
|
|
|
Falco posted:Thanks for pointing me towards those two. It looks like they took very different approaches, with Woodworking for Mere Mortals going down only the staining path as his experience using Spar Varnish was not a good one. Any particular kind of oil? Something like a Danish or Teak oil? [/quote] Exterior oils like that stuff you can buy by the gallon for fences and outdoor furniture.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 17:29
|
|
|
I'm about 95% finished my guitar. So I left off with a massive crack in it. I epoxied, sanded, epoxied, sanded, epoxied.... until I got to the point where I was satisfied.  One of my epoxy pours. In the mean time I also did a coat with a sparse grey fleck on the back to cut the vibrancy of the blue a bit. I made it squiggly on purpose.  The neck finish turned out fantastic (Warmoth Smoked Maple, with Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Oil):  I routed out the neck, pickups, and the electronics compartment. I was not very pleased with how the pickups turned out, more on that later:  .I fine tuned the neck pocket, installed the electronics, installed the neck and had a playable guitar:   My neighbor has a 3d printer at work, so I had him make me up a bracket for the pickups.  There's a bit of fret buzz, and I'm still going to work the pickup cutouts a bit, so when I de-string it, I'll probably shim the neck a touch and use the truss rod to bring it back close to where I want it. The tone post,for some reason, decided to sink in when I was mounting the knobs, so I'll probably end up replacing that as well. It's heavy as poo poo, but it plays well and I'm pretty loving pleased with it. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 18:03 on May 8, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 17:54
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I'm about 95% finished my guitar. Holy poo poo congrats on both (almost) finishing the project and having the idea work well. The neck and epoxy look great. Now play a concert and smash it!
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 18:00
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Now play a concert and smash it! It's so drat solid it would probably collapse the stage.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2019 18:04
|
|
|
How deep do curly maple ripples go? I have a ~10" round I cut down and dried that looks great but I'm worried about sanding them out
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 01:33
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Always do test pieces when figuring out finishes you haven't done before. Try with and without, in other words, and decide which you like better. Seriously, what a concept. Seems to work great with the conditioner. Over thinking this and too many YouTube videos. For finish was going to go with a oil/poly mix, thinking 1/3 each poly, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits to thin it out. Anything wrong with starting off there?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 01:39
|
|
|
any tips for cutting straight with a ryoba saw? i was practicing and i keep heading off to the left and i'm not sure how to not consistently do that
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 01:46
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:How deep do curly maple ripples go? I have a ~10" round I cut down and dried that looks great but I'm worried about sanding them out You’re not going to sand them out unless they are saw marks you think is curl or something. The grain ripples are usually 1/4-1/2” deep, and there’s usually rows and rows of them.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 02:24
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:How deep do curly maple ripples go? I have a ~10" round I cut down and dried that looks great but I'm worried about sanding them out I have some that goes all the way through the center mass. There’s about an inch on the edges under the bark that’s just clean maple. The curves do curve in 3D too. So it would depend on how it was cut I guess. But if it’s on both sides, you should be fine.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 02:28
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You’re not going to sand them out unless they are saw marks you think is curl or something. The grain ripples are usually 1/4-1/2” deep, and there’s usually rows and rows of them. Oh no they're definitely not saw marks, I should have mentioned I plan on cutting off sections first and then sanding sorry that wasn't clear at all. Its for a sculpture and I'd like to keep them if they go deep enough Jhet posted:I have some that goes all the way through the center mass. There’s about an inch on the edges under the bark that’s just clean maple. The curves do curve in 3D too. So it would depend on how it was cut I guess. But if it’s on both sides, you should be fine. Oh please oh please
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 02:30
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Oh no they're definitely not saw marks, I should have mentioned I plan on cutting off sections first and then sanding sorry that wasn't clear at all. Its for a sculpture and I'd like to keep them if they go deep enough Post pics of said sculpture obviously plz.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 03:00
|
|
|
mikeycp posted:any tips for cutting straight with a ryoba saw? i was practicing and i keep heading off to the left and i'm not sure how to not consistently do that This is not a very helpful response but I recently used one for the first time and the answer there seemed to be "do it a few more times". I couldn't tell you what changed between attempt 1 and attempt 5.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 08:27
|
|
|
mikeycp posted:any tips for cutting straight with a ryoba saw? i was practicing and i keep heading off to the left and i'm not sure how to not consistently do that Yeah, keep practicing. Unless they are bent or the teeth are poorly set (unlikely if it's new), saws want to saw straight. So you want to remove yourself from the equation as much as possible. Make sure your body is not interfering with your arm swinging freely in line with the cut. One of my favorite hand tool woodworkers, Shannon Rogers, has done a couple videos on the topic. Hit YouTube for "Renaissance woodworker saw straight" and you'll find two or three.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 14:17
|
|
|
mikeycp posted:any tips for cutting straight with a ryoba saw? i was practicing and i keep heading off to the left and i'm not sure how to not consistently do that Dumb question but are you standing square to the saw? It works better to be directly behind the pull motion rather than pulling to your side. Hand tool set question: This July we're taking a drive up to Bar Harbor, ME. I want to stop at the Lie Nielsen workshop on the way and maybe splurge on a tool. Currently I have: Stanley no. 5 Lie Nielsen no. 4 A crummy little block plane that sort of works but is difficult to adjust Full set of chisels 10-inch gentleman's saw DeWalt Ryoba pull saw Several panel (I keep forgetting whether rip or crosscut cause I can't use them yet) saws that I need to restore/sharpen, including a Disston Coping saw Any thoughts on something specific I should have next? I was thinking of getting a tenon saw. The pull saw is fine but I kind of want something thinner and that's not disposable. I use the gentleman's saw for dovetails, but I don't know if an actual dovetail saw would be a big improvement or not. Alternatively, I was thinking of a nice block plane or maybe a router plane. z0331 fucked around with this message at 14:50 on May 9, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 14:37
|
|
|
z0331 posted:Dumb question but are you standing square to the saw? It works better to be directly behind the pull motion rather than pulling to your side. The factory tour is pretty neat there. I can’t remember if you need to call ahead to schedule something or not but it’s worth taking the time to see.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 15:18
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I’d get either a block plane (although I like the Veritas one a little bit better than the LN, but both are Very Good) or some sort of back saw. I have a LN tenon saw I don’t use that much (because the bandsaw does most of what it does faster and straighter) but it cuts very well and a fine toothed crosscut saw that I use all the time that I love. I think I got the tapered version, and if I did it again I would get the non-tapered one. My dovetail saw is an awkward Crown gentleman’s saw and I keep thinking of replacing it with an LN. I'm leaning toward a carcass saw. There's a guy who sometimes appears at a local flea market who collects/sells restored planes. I bought my Stanley from him and can probably get a block plane off him at some point to replace the one I have. (And I can't really justify spending that much on the Veritas.) Good backsaws are a lot harder to find used. Out of curiosity, what do you not like about the tapered version? Not sure we'll have time for a full tour but thanks for the tip.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 15:54
|
|
|
z0331 posted:Any thoughts on something specific I should have next? I was thinking of getting a tenon saw. The pull saw is fine but I kind of want something thinner and that's not disposable. I use the gentleman's saw for dovetails, but I don't know if an actual dovetail saw would be a big improvement or not. Alternatively, I was thinking of a nice block plane or maybe a router plane. Yeah, block planes. Get the adjustable mouth one and the rabbeting one imo. You can get good old and new backsaws for far cheaper, but even vintage router planes are pricey, so that might be another good get.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 16:29
|
|
|
Took off the bark on another chunk off that curly maple last night, gonna cut and sand and figure out how deep these go today. I cant stop touching it, I love playing with wood I sourced myself. http://imgur.com/gallery/IyptmtR mikeycp posted:any tips for cutting straight with a ryoba saw? i was practicing and i keep heading off to the left and i'm not sure how to not consistently do that Make sure you arent twisting while pushing and maybe check the blade to make sure its square. If you want to check and see if its operator error or not you can always clamp a 2x4 on the right and see how it cuts. Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 16:40 on May 9, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 16:34
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Took off the bark on another chunk off that curly maple last night, gonna cut and sand and figure out how deep these go today. I cant stop touching it, I love playing with wood I sourced myself. ooooooh nice stuff!
|
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 20:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 10:35 |
|
|
z0331 posted:Dumb question but are you standing square to the saw? It works better to be directly behind the pull motion rather than pulling to your side. i think it's probably this. haven't made horses yet so i'm working nearly entirely on the ground rn.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2019 21:39
|
|