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3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

Motronic posted:

While it may be what you meant to say, it wasn't understandable as such.

I think this means I'm not drunk enough :thunk:

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jerry Cotton posted:

I think this means I'm not drunk enough :thunk:

It's nearly noon on friday. I'll join you.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


Javid posted:

I want to build a thing. Is there a better thread for a "how do I make thing" question? As far as I know there's no actual code where it's going (homestead on undeveloped land in banjo country) but we would like it to not fall over on anyone.



As far as I can tell this is just a screenshot of a screenshot of a Pinterest post and there's no actual directions to follow, though I can pretty much tell what all it's built like.

I don't think this design is necessarily as weak as other people do. 4x4 poles and 2x6 construction will be pretty strong if it's connected and footed properly. This particular one really may not be based on the pics, but I think it could be done without much modification.

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

glynnenstein posted:

I don't think this design is necessarily as weak as other people do. 4x4 poles and 2x6 construction will be pretty strong if it's connected and footed properly. This particular one really may not be based on the pics, but I think it could be done without much modification.

Someone who can calculate the mass of the roof can easily calculate the mass of the roof and then someone (quite possibly the same person!) can easily tell whether or not those posts are enough to support it securely. It's not like people have to guess.

I'm not a person who can calculate the mass of the roof though.

Proteus Jones
Feb 28, 2013



glynnenstein posted:

I don't think this design is necessarily as weak as other people do. 4x4 poles and 2x6 construction will be pretty strong if it's connected and footed properly. This particular one really may not be based on the pics, but I think it could be done without much modification.

The front poles are too tall to be unsupported/not braced, especially with the covered roof. A strong gust will snap those. I had a whole run of fencing snap off at the base after a day of being pummeled with 50+ mph gusts of wind.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jerry Cotton posted:

Someone who can calculate the mass of the roof can easily calculate the mass of the roof and then someone (quite possibly the same person!) can easily tell whether or not those posts are enough to support it securely. It's not like people have to guess.

I'm not a person who can calculate the mass of the roof though.

It's not at all about mass, it's about wind load.

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

Motronic posted:

It's not at all about mass, it's about wind load.

*screams physicsly* EVERYTHING IS ABOUT MASS!

Pigsfeet on Rye
Oct 22, 2008

I'm meat on the hoof

Motronic posted:

It's not at all about mass, it's about wind load.

Yeah, Motronic he told me "you gotta worry about the sides"
(Shoo wop wop, sha-ooh wop wop)
He says, "Boys it could use a lot better bracing all right"
(That footing, uh, that footy footing)
You know I won't be no crappy construction thread mirth
(Shoo wop wop, sha-ooh wop wop)
Since that's not what I'm into, I'll give my supports more girth
Because you know I'm all about that base
'Bout that base, and wind loading

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

Ashcans posted:

The weirdest things about that is that 1/ they seem to have small kids, so you would think they'd value the railing for that reason and 2/ it had a railing to start with and they actually removed it as part of the project. So it's not even an oversight.

My uncles basement had steps like that and I can tell you as a formerly small kid it was fun to slide down the portion where the rail should be on the outside.


Also I see a lot of hate for the drop-ceiling, what sort of ceiling should he have used? I would say you'd have to be (and I can't emphasize this enough) an absolute madman to drywall in a basement ceiling like that. I know in my basement (also with a low ceiling) there are a number of shutoffs behind drop ceiling, and not only that it makes adding stuff in the future very easy. Should he have left it bare and just sprayed everything black like a lovely restaurant?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Drywall and access panels.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


StormDrain posted:

Drywall and access panels.

This or maybe a nicer drop ceiling, perhaps something a little way between the "don't give two shits about appearance access is a priority" office tiles and the "appearance is priority gently caress access" of a fully plastered ceiling.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

StormDrain posted:

Drywall and access panels.

And try to relocate any shutoffs to better areas or at least consolidate them.

Drywall would probably have given him an extra few inches of headspace, which in a low (7ft) clearance basement would make a ton of difference.

In software development there's a term: "You Aren't Gonna Need It", where it's oftentimes better to plan for/implement reasonable use-cases, but don't go crazy with attempting to 'future-proof' something, especially if it adds cost or complexity. It's not like drywall is like sealing something up in concrete; you can always cut some holes if you must, but with proper planning of how pipes/wires/etc are run (and documenting it), you might not even need to do that.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Ease of changing shouldn't be a concern either unless you live in a theater or something. Cover it up solid, move valves if you need to avoid access panels in the living area. I'll probably insulate mine just for sound dampening too.


Plus if it's a low ceiling drywall means you lose a half inch, a drop ceiling loses more than that so you can put tiles in.

Dont put ceiling tiles in your home.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

StormDrain posted:

Ease of changing shouldn't be a concern either unless you live in a theater or something. Cover it up solid, move valves if you need to avoid access panels in the living area. I'll probably insulate mine just for sound dampening too.


Plus if it's a low ceiling drywall means you lose a half inch, a drop ceiling loses more than that so you can put tiles in.

Dont put ceiling tiles in your home.

One of my friends' parents did the worst of both worlds, they put up a drop ceiling but with only an inch or two of clearance. I don't think it's actually possible to remove the tiles without disassembling a large part of the ceiling.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

There are a few rooms in my basement that I want to improve enough for more regular usage, like a root cellar and workshop, so I was going to put up cheap pine beadboard on the joists at some point, which I guess is functionally the same as drywall, but would fit better aesthetically with my creepy Victorian basement. And be trivial to unscrew and pull down (and then put back up again) if I needed to access anything up in the joists.

Also, check out my basement feature wall:


Timbers have been aged in a damp, moldy cave-like environment for the last hundred years for an authentic weathered appearance blending rustic and decay to give your windowless man cave that accented pop of interest it needs.

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time

Queen Victorian posted:

There are a few rooms in my basement that I want to improve enough for more regular usage, like a root cellar and workshop, so I was going to put up cheap pine beadboard on the joists at some point, which I guess is functionally the same as drywall, but would fit better aesthetically with my creepy Victorian basement. And be trivial to unscrew and pull down (and then put back up again) if I needed to access anything up in the joists.

Also, check out my basement feature wall:


Timbers have been aged in a damp, moldy cave-like environment for the last hundred years for an authentic weathered appearance blending rustic and decay to give your windowless man cave that accented pop of interest it needs.

That's a nice murder basement.

Pigsfeet on Rye
Oct 22, 2008

I'm meat on the hoof

Queen Victorian posted:

There are a few rooms in my basement that I want to improve enough for more regular usage, like a root cellar and workshop, so I was going to put up cheap pine beadboard on the joists at some point, which I guess is functionally the same as drywall, but would fit better aesthetically with my creepy Victorian basement. And be trivial to unscrew and pull down (and then put back up again) if I needed to access anything up in the joists.

Also, check out my basement feature wall:


Timbers have been aged in a damp, moldy cave-like environment for the last hundred years for an authentic weathered appearance blending rustic and decay to give your windowless man cave that accented pop of interest it needs.

It looks like the mule stall that used to be in my grandparent's barn. Maybe you could keep goats down there!

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Baronjutter posted:

The explosion of commercial architecture in residential design is something that makes me so upset. You'll see these big square all-glass-fronted buildings with 24/7 flood lighting shining down from the sofits to illuminate the facade, ground lighting to show off all the concrete sculptures in the front yard. Lit window displays showing some extremely generic pottery arts in little display windows.

You'd think it was a little museum or a professional building or an art store or something? Nope, it's a house, because houses now need to look like fancy hotels or retail.

this is near me:

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Queen Victorian posted:

It's more the punchbowl making GBS threads that bothers me. If I built a Victorian in a neighborhood full of mid-century moderns, then my house would be the punchbowl shitter and look stupid and bad. I've also seen a Mediterranean (red terra cotta roof, white stucco), a style that I quite like, in a neighborhood full of Tudor revivals and it also looked dumb.

reminds me of this house in Scottsdale that looks like it was scooped outta the midwest and plopped right into the desert. bright green full grass lawn and a style that clashed with everything around it.

https://www.google.com/maps/@33.5969766,-111.8529594,3a,75y,208.44h,72.08t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1soBPAttBYRveVRsv8WF0Msg!2e0!7i16384!8i8192

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

therobit posted:

That's a nice murder basement.

Oh, that's actually the non-murder part of my basement.

This is the murder room:



The lighting is all camera flash because the light fixture in it doesn't work. But the real selling point is the perpetually damp dirt floor.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Thanks for all the answers. It's worth adding that this place gets some pretty legit wind and snow; is it even realistic to want to build a freestanding covered area like that? It doesn't have to be that exact thing, but the general concept of an outdoor kitchen and dining area that may or may not get walls later.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


wesleywillis posted:


Also, holy gently caress thats a lot of outlets along the one wall.

:grovertoot:

Guy Axlerod
Dec 29, 2008

brugroffil posted:

this is near me:



Hey it's the middle school they built in my hometown.

This popped up on my youtube last night: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdDKLVZJwd4

I'm the empty "Changing Room"

They sure are into things that take a lot of big strong men to install. And crystal doorknobs. Have you noticed them yet?

The house isn't the worst I've seen, but it's right on top of the neighbors on both sides.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Queen Victorian posted:

Timbers have been aged in a damp, moldy cave-like environment for the last hundred years for an authentic weathered appearance blending rustic and decay to give your windowless man cave that accented pop of interest it needs.

I knew your place was old but I didn't know you'd bought the actual Hill House.

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer

Ashcans posted:

The weirdest things about that is that 1/ they seem to have small kids, so you would think they'd value the railing for that reason and 2/ it had a railing to start with and they actually removed it as part of the project. So it's not even an oversight.

There are actually two sets of stairs in the basement. One set that was already halfway drywalled in that doesn't look like it's ever had a railing that goes up to the kitchen, and the other one behind the new barn door wall, that goes up to the garage, that had one because it was a more industrial staircase with built-in railing.

Submarine Sandpaper
May 27, 2007


Javid posted:

Thanks for all the answers. It's worth adding that this place gets some pretty legit wind and snow; is it even realistic to want to build a freestanding covered area like that? It doesn't have to be that exact thing, but the general concept of an outdoor kitchen and dining area that may or may not get walls later.

Last winter I hung out a bunch in a pole barn without completely closed in sides. Was overbuilt though. Rain/snow/wind

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Javid posted:

Thanks for all the answers. It's worth adding that this place gets some pretty legit wind and snow; is it even realistic to want to build a freestanding covered area like that? It doesn't have to be that exact thing, but the general concept of an outdoor kitchen and dining area that may or may not get walls later.

Snow is going to be a significant concern. Since it's an unheated structure, it's going to accumulate more snow than a typical house roof. You'd really want someone to research the design snow loads for your are and figure out the safety factors on the various members at that point.

Have you considered something like a pergola with an underside cloth canopy instead? The design loads on that would be much lighter (and the maintenance wouldn't require climbing up on a ladder and trying to scrape it clean with a long broom).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Chairman posted:

Snow is going to be a significant concern. Since it's an unheated structure, it's going to accumulate more snow than a typical house roof.

If you think snow load/shed has anything to do with leaking heat through the roof of the structure the crappy construction tales are now coming from within the thread.

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Motronic posted:

If you think snow load/shed has anything to do with leaking heat through the roof of the structure the crappy construction tales are now coming from within the thread.

I'm just going by what ASCE 7 says about it:



A structure like this has a design load of 1.2 times the regional snow ground load, compared to 1.1 for uninsulated roofs on houses.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

TooMuchAbstraction posted:



I'm no structural engineer, but things that bug me about this design:
  • The aforementioned negligible resistance to racking. You're basically relying on the bottoms of the posts not moving and the posts themselves not breaking. It's hard to tell, but if those posts are 4x4s then I'm not really convinced they have the kind of resistance to flexion that you'd want.
  • You can see that the front header is sagging a bit; it's supporting a fair bit of weight across a long span and isn't rigid enough.
  • Relatedly, it's not clear that the top is really securely attached to those legs. The photo's pretty low-res, but I don't see any brackets or ties on anything, so I'd suspect that all of the pieces are just toenailed or screwed together. The rafters could easily rack on their own even if the rest of the structure stayed upright.
  • As Motronic mentioned, the entire thing's a sail. Wind getting underneath those plastic roofing elements will pop them right off. Or if secure them to the structure more strongly, they'll encourage the structure to fail.

As for fixes to those issues:
  • For racking, first off of course you want to make sure that you have really good footings. Deep post-holes secured with plenty of concrete. And use pressure-treated lumber for the posts, in case that wasn't obvious already. Making the posts thicker (I'd say 6x6 at minimum? But again, I'm not an engineer, there's probably code for this, just do what that says). Use thicker lumber for the front legs, since they have to support a wider span.
  • Use Simpson strong-tie rafter hangers and brackets to attach components together.
  • Overlap the plastic panels and leave an air gap to reduce the sail effect. That is, if air gets underneath the structure, it should be able to pass through to above, and vice versa. I don't imagine this structure is going to get much use if it's rainy and windy (since it's open on the sides), so you don't need so much of an overlap as to prevent wind-driven rain from getting underneath the roof; this is purely to reduce the likelihood of the roof popping off in a windstorm.
  • Put blocking between the rafters. You can probably re-use the nailers for this, just turn them 90 degrees so they have more resistance to lateral motion.

Middle pole in the back is noticeably off centre as well.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Chairman posted:

I'm just going by what ASCE 7 says about it:



A structure like this has a design load of 1.2 times the regional snow ground load, compared to 1.1 for uninsulated roofs on houses.

Are you quoting a flat/non-conforming pitch section? Code around here is all about pitch - you only go to the tables if it's not sufficient, and I don't recall anything about heated or not since we adopted the building performance codes (which makes every roof like a roof on an unheated building).

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

brugroffil posted:

this is near me:



The lighted exterior is the pièce de résistance.

immoral_
Oct 21, 2007

So fresh and so clean.

Young Orc

Pigsfeet on Rye posted:

Yeah, Motronic he told me "you gotta worry about the sides"
(Shoo wop wop, sha-ooh wop wop)
He says, "Boys it could use a lot better bracing all right"
(That footing, uh, that footy footing)
You know I won't be no crappy construction thread mirth
(Shoo wop wop, sha-ooh wop wop)
Since that's not what I'm into, I'll give my supports more girth
Because you know I'm all about that base
'Bout that base, and wind loading

This is not getting nearly the love it should.

Rev. Bleech_
Oct 19, 2004

~OKAY, WE'LL DRINK TO OUR LEGS!~

Leperflesh posted:

stairs kill 12,000 people annually

we warned them, but it keeps happening

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Pigsfeet on Rye posted:

Yeah, Motronic he told me "you gotta worry about the sides"
(Shoo wop wop, sha-ooh wop wop)
He says, "Boys it could use a lot better bracing all right"
(That footing, uh, that footy footing)
You know I won't be no crappy construction thread mirth
(Shoo wop wop, sha-ooh wop wop)
Since that's not what I'm into, I'll give my supports more girth
Because you know I'm all about that base
'Bout that base, and wind loading

:master:

Proteus Jones
Feb 28, 2013



Queen Victorian posted:

Oh, that's actually the non-murder part of my basement.

This is the murder room:



The lighting is all camera flash because the light fixture in it doesn't work. But the real selling point is the perpetually damp dirt floor.

Jesus, all that's missing is a bunch of handprints of dried blood and an amateur filmmaker standing in the corner.

Youth Decay
Aug 18, 2015

A feral boxhaus has been spotted in the process of consuming an early 1900s Colonial Revival.

It has already fully engulfed the rear of the older house, completely obscuring it from view.

Boxhauses prefer to hunt in packs and two more of them lie waiting for the opportune moment to strike the rest of the neighborhood. Homes in the Fan district are especially vulnerable to these invasive predators.

Youth Decay fucked around with this message at 06:19 on May 11, 2019

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Youth Decay posted:

A feral boxhaus has been spotted in the process of consuming an early 1900s Colonial Revival.

It has already fully engulfed the rear of the older house, completely obscuring it from view.

Boxhauses prefer to hunt in packs and two more of them lie waiting for the opportune moment to strike the rest of the neighborhood. Homes in the Fan district are especially vulnerable to these invasive predators.


Christ, they couldn't even bother to keep the facade up.

This poo poo is so goddamned frustrating.

Moatman
Mar 21, 2014

Because the goof is all mine.

StormDrain posted:

Dont put ceiling tiles in your home.
Speaking of ceiling tiles, the house I rented in college had a couple of rooms with tiles, including the main entrance/living room. I thought they looked a bit weird when I moved in but I couldn't quite figure out why so I forgot about it.
Well, by the end of the first week I found out why they looked so weird.

Most of the tiles had torn free from their studs and collapsed onto the floor/couch/table/everywhere. The ceiling looked weird because it had started to sag where a bunch of tiles had pulled free.
That wasn't the end of it, though. You can see the ceiling is different at the back of that photo. Let's take a closer look at that.

:catstare:
This was directly under the drain side of the bathtub, so I can only assume it was water damage. There's also that electrical wiring on the right side of the first picture. I don't know for sure if it was ever actually used, but I have a suspicion that the tiles were installed to hide the rot and the fixture was a casualty of that change.
I lived there for another year and a half before I transferred away, and it's a goddamn miracle that nobody was seriously injured by that house.

e: Oh gently caress I just remembered about the time the basement flooded after a bit of rain. I still have no idea how that happened. The basement had a drain but it didn't actually... drain. I don't think it was a high spot but the basement definitely wasn't sloped to direct water to it.

Oh god and the downstairs bathroom. I don't have any photos of it but Zillow does:

When I lived there that sink only had the left leg and was otherwise attached with the plumbing and some failing caulk. I think the toilet might not be up to code, NY requires 15" between the nearest wall and the center of the bowl, and that room's only about 3 feet wide (plus it isn't perfectly centered). Even if it is legal it was horrible to use because the room's so tiny.

Moatman fucked around with this message at 08:07 on May 11, 2019

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nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



Moatman posted:


:catstare:
This was directly under the drain side of the bathtub, so I can only assume it was water damage.

Did you check the joists?

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