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That's a receiver and you want a transmitter. Combo devices where you can switch between either exist. I have this transmitter. Please note that Bluetooth has terrible latency in general, that in this specific use case can't be compensated for. That's why it's great that that transmitter supports "apt-x low latency". This reduces latency to mostly bearable (for most people), but only if the connected headphones also explicitly support this! Non-Bluetooth wireless headphones still exist as a niche for this reason. E: ie. for use with tv
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May 12, 2019 19:40
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Shibawanko posted:I want to set up a set of bluetooth headphones for my mother's TV, but the TV doesn't have built in bluetooth (it's an older, small model Sony Bravia). It has a regular audio out port (like a jack on a smartphone) and a USB port. What kind of device should I connect to make the audio pass through to the bluetooth headphones without lag and stuff? I'm guessing a regular bluetooth dongle straight into the USB port wouldn't work since the TV probably lacks drivers to do this? Techmoan did a review of something similar last year. It's a bit pricey, but he seemed to be impressed. Especially by the (lack of) latency. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bn3hKbl9f-U It has a normal 3.5mm headphone output as well, in case you really need that.
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May 12, 2019 19:42
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Flipperwaldt posted:Non-Bluetooth wireless headphones still exist as a niche for this reason. E: ie. for use with tv I'd say they're way more than a niche when it comes to PC usage - Bluetooth has terrible voice quality, in addition to all the latency problems.
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May 12, 2019 19:43
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I don't know if this is true for all of them, but my Bluetooth headphones can't do stereo audio and voice at the same time, kind of a pain in the rear end. I have ended up just using a webcam for a mic. Kind of wish I had gotten a 2.4ghz headset instead. Some Bluetooth headsets also have a bit of audio latency that gets really annoying when gaming. Not so noticeable when watching a video, but when you're actively engaged with the actions that are causing sounds to happen it gets disorienting.
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May 12, 2019 19:52
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Lambert posted:I'd say they're way more than a niche when it comes to PC usage - Bluetooth has terrible voice quality, in addition to all the latency problems.
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May 12, 2019 20:04
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Kind of a vague question here, but i don't know a better way to formulate it. I just got fibre installed here today and it came with a router. I can apparently not log into the router proper and change everything i want to with this thing, but rather log into their website and change things they feel i should be allowed access to (and this also of course requires the internet connection to be actually working). This kinda seems like it's becoming the norm in my country at least (Norway) and my question is: Do i have to use the ISP supplied router? If not, is it a giant clusterfuck to try and get a custom router working with the ISP connection?
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May 16, 2019 12:05
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Some things can get locked down pretty hard for some ISPs. Sometimes, you can't change passwords without losing your connection, which isn't a great design. Look up "bridge mode" on your ISP website to see how to enable it and hook up another router. It's usually available, even for the worst ISPs out there, and works pretty effortlessly.
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May 16, 2019 12:59
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ufarn posted:Some things can get locked down pretty hard for some ISPs. Sometimes, you can't change passwords without losing your connection, which isn't a great design. Oh, this router that they gave me has "bridge mode", i'll look into that, cheers.
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May 16, 2019 16:04
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Whether you can use your own router for internet access mostly depends on the technology (always possible with DSL) or whether your country has a law that forces ISPs to allow the end-user to use their own router. I only know of Italy and Germany having such laws, don't know about Norway. It's probably coming EU-wide relatively soon, but that won't help you, either.
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May 16, 2019 19:55
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There were enough options in the end available to me to solve the problems i had, but i surely do resent madly not being allowed full access to my own poo poo. Especially the "you need internet access to access the router" part is really stupid, haha.
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May 16, 2019 20:03
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did your isp confirm that is accurate and theres no other way to access it??? that seems hosed up
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May 16, 2019 20:14
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Yeah, they said quote: "You do not have the ability to log into the home central (lost in translation probably, but aka the router innards) like with a regular router, but you have the ability to change certain settings via "my page" on our site". This is apparently "a thing" here now, most likely to cut down on people that don't know what they are doing going into the settings and nuking everything i assume.
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May 16, 2019 21:48
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Flipperwaldt posted:That's a receiver and you want a transmitter. Combo devices where you can switch between either exist. Thanks, I ordered this thing and it works perfectly, you have made my mother very happy.
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May 18, 2019 05:32
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I have a Asus RT-3200. What sort of repeater do I need to extend the 5Ghz range. This is tri-band, has 1300Mbps@5Ghz/1300Mbps@5Ghz/600Mbps@600Mbps I think? Will it repeat all 3 or just one of the 5Ghz band?
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May 22, 2019 02:23
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https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442319 Describe your problem more completely in this thread. Thanks!
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May 22, 2019 02:46
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Dongattack posted:i surely do resent madly not being allowed full access to my own poo poo. There is truth and wisdom to that point. However, if locking down routers means the ISP can prevent fuckwits from configuring their router in an insecure way and disabling software updates, I can see the justification for the alternative as I imagine the forum posts along the lines of "my game starts working if I add my PC to the DMX ZONE, everyone who is a customer of ISPnord should do it". My ISP is very chill about it, thankfully. They sell you a router that is reasonably unlocked settings-wise and that they have admin access to for software upgrades. However, I can also just plug in my own (which I have done, as the original was slow as gently caress and died even under a light 100 Mbps load).
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May 22, 2019 22:07
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It'd be one thing if it was to prevent technical luddites from making configuration changes they don't understand. In my experience its so they can lock down WiFi until you pay them $10/month to have it switched on.
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May 22, 2019 22:14
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Every ISP should be forced by law to allow the user to use their own equipment. They can then lock down their trash lowest-bidder hardware for the common person as much as they want.
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May 22, 2019 22:14
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I have fiber internet via at&t and I don’t think there is any way to supply your own router... you have to use the router modem combo that they provide. There is no way to just pick up a modem and use your own router. At least it’s free. I suspect that the bulk of the decision to lock down the router was to make it easier to provide over-the-top services and minimize customer support issues. sb hermit fucked around with this message at 23:47 on May 22, 2019 |
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May 22, 2019 23:44
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Considering Uverse is VDSL or ADSL2+ mostly, enabling customers to use their own modems would be way easier than with DOCSIS (cable).
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May 22, 2019 23:49
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Well on DSL Uverse I suspect part of the reason was to lock people in to renting the drat thing for $7/month forever. I just upgraded to fiber and it's "free" now (meaning of course that it's just opaquely folded into the price). As far as I know the only technical reason you need one of their devices is that the 802.1x authentication certificate is baked in to the router. The TV service does use multicast which maybe they didn't want causing support headaches with crappy SOHO routers, but IIRC it's just IGMP.
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May 23, 2019 00:11
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I have spent an absurd amount of time on this so may as well ask. I can't get in to my bios, it's just a black screen if I push any keys before Windows loads. Windows itself loads fine. I have tried the following: Reset the bios with the button on the board Removed the boot drive and secondary drive, in fact when I removed the boot drive, it displayed nothing at all, even when I put it back in until I removed the secondary drive, booted and then put in the boot drive Booted to UEFI bios using Windows restart removed all USB devices changed to on board video (which must be disabled since it doesn't work at all) In fact, F8 doesn't display anything either, could it be some monitor setting? The most recent things I have done is added a new monitor, and flashed the bios awhile ago. Edit: I guess I should post this is the tech support forum Edit2: It's the monitor, it works fine using my TV, weird. Rusty fucked around with this message at 02:44 on May 23, 2019 |
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May 23, 2019 02:20
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Local ISP used to be weird about using your own equipment... On their DSL service they provided a completely locked down modem/router combo. You had ZERO access to it. If you wanted to so much as setup a port forward, change the Wifi password, etc... you had to call them and wait for them to do it for you. You would then have to fully explain why you wanted to make these changes. With the rise of online gaming and just internet use in general, they where getting swamped with calls, so they eventually relented and started giving customers access to the modem. Then they later stared providing fiber service.. They didn't even try with it.. Every customer gets a standard Ethernet handoff with DHCP from the ONT. You supply your own router. The IPTV service is done off a separate port on the ONT on its own private network, so no bullshit like ATT or Verizon FIOS where the TV service runs through your router.
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May 23, 2019 14:04
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Please tell me if there is a better place to ask this. I have an external 5TB drive by Seagate, model STEB5000100. Unfortunately, I have lost the power adapter. Neither the drive itself nor the manual give the specifications for the power adapter so I can't replace it. I've found a few on amazon.com but I live in the EU so that's no help. Does anyone know the specs for the adaptor? Maybe if I open the case it will say inside? Or maybe the adaptor itself says it... if someone has theirs?
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May 25, 2019 16:18
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Associate Christ
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other people posted:Please tell me if there is a better place to ask this. https://www.amazon.com/APD-Replacement-Expansion-STEB5000100-Compatible/dp/B01GDAR4MW I just googled that type number and power adapter and that's the first hit. Looks like a bog standard 12VDC 2A adapter.
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May 25, 2019 16:30
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For future reference for anyone, 12VDC, 2A (minimum) will power any 3.5" drive. Just need the plug to match, though make sure the polarity is right, especially if you splice one on like I've had to do more times than I haven't. (2.5" takes 5V, but generally the USB port supplies that.)
Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 25, 2019 |
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May 25, 2019 16:44
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Geemer posted:https://www.amazon.com/APD-Replacement-Expansion-STEB5000100-Compatible/dp/B01GDAR4MW Sorry for being dumb but I also need to know the specification of the physical plug, too. Right? The amazon.eu site doesn't have any of these third-party ones for sale. I mean, I am sure it does but listed without mentioning being compatible with my specific model. other people fucked around with this message at 17:01 on May 25, 2019 |
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May 25, 2019 16:51
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other people posted:Sorry for being dumb but I also need to know the specification of the physical plug, too. Right? I was able to find this one, obviously can't vouch for its quality https://www.amazon.de/MyVolts-EU-Ne...way&sr=8-1&th=1
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May 25, 2019 17:37
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Hipster_Doofus posted:For future reference for anyone, 12VDC, 2A (minimum) will power any 3.5" drive. Just need the plug to match, though make sure the polarity is right, especially if you splice one on like I've had to do more times than I haven't. (2.5" takes 5V, but generally the USB port supplies that.) 2A seems a lot to spin a drive up. I'm not disputing what you're saying. Just surprised it's that high.
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May 25, 2019 23:03
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apropos man posted:2A seems a lot to spin a drive up. I'm not disputing what you're saying. Just surprised it's that high. It probably is, but that's probably what the PSUs are spec'd at to be on the safe side. In normal operation the drive probably only consumes around 10 W (but it's been awhile since I had one plugged into my KillAWatt to be specific.)
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May 26, 2019 00:00
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Right. I said 2A because that's what they usually are, and I said minimum because it can always be higher too.
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May 26, 2019 04:59
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Hipster_Doofus posted:Right. I said 2A because that's what they usually are, and I said minimum because it can always be higher too. I understood your earlier post and I understand this one, too.
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May 26, 2019 07:42
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Ok but I was replying to what Atomizer said. 
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May 26, 2019 07:46
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Hipster_Doofus posted:Ok but I was replying to what Atomizer said. Oh. Can I be apropos doofus for a couple of hours?
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May 26, 2019 07:57
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other people posted:Please tell me if there is a better place to ask this. Seagate has external hard drive power adapters right on their site https://www.seagate.com/consumer/backup/expansion-hard-drive/#accessories Also their Quick Start Guide was handy and seems to imply that its power supplies switch voltages https://www.seagate.com/new-pdf/expansion-desktop-quick-start-guide.pdf Thanks to Mexico's equivalent of the FCC the accessory linked above can be confirmed as having an output of 12V || 1.5A
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May 26, 2019 10:27
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Another option would be to simply buy a new drive enclosure, they're pretty cheap.
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May 26, 2019 10:31
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Are there any amazing sales for Memorial Day on external drives? And which ones should I be looking at if I have an unfortunate habit of being rough on stuff but want my drive to be able to survive?
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May 27, 2019 11:30
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Staples has a 5tb external drive for $90 with coupon 58071 https://www.staples.com/seagate-5tb-backup-plus-portable-usb-3-0-external-hard-drive-black-sthp5000400/product_24383777
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May 27, 2019 16:14
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My wife's Bluetooth stopped working in Windows 10 yesterday, she's restarted, applied updates, turned the adapter on/off, tried pairing it again, nothing's working. She's got the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I rev 4.2. She downloaded drivers off the site but is getting an error saying "Please uninstall current Bluetooth installation before continuing" which makes me think maybe the update included a newer version of the driver? Does it use Intel's standard drivers or are they adapted by Gigabyte to work? I know it's an Intel chipset. I'm thinking maybe she should try uninstalling the drivers and then installing them again at this point, but I'm in another city right now and her internet situation is crappy (internet out at home, not going to be fixed until tomorrow, so she's on a hotspot) so doing a remote desktop session would be somewhat difficult. I'm just worried that if she does uninstall them it will still refuse to install and then we're even worse off.
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May 27, 2019 16:16
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Uninstall the Bluetooth and install the current Intel drivers https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/28805/Intel-Wireless-Bluetooth-for-Windows-10?product=59485
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May 27, 2019 17:13
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