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ShaneB posted:I can't tell you how much this frustrates me. I'm glad I'm not the only person who read that and went 
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May 12, 2019 16:17
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Coming from 15 years of judo and bjj with strength training focused on not building too much mass was a pretty awesome starting platform. Also my gym grades might just be softer than yours. Thanks to whoever replied. I think I’ll go with 2 weightlifting session a week for the summer and try to hit the bouldering gym 3 or 4 times. I can’t get myself to stop front squatting and deadlifting though. I like to think that front squats have quite a bit of carryover
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May 12, 2019 16:53
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Today I went climbing only the road was closed due to mud and snow. So I did not go Rock climbing. I could have gone to clear Creek but oh well.
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May 12, 2019 17:02
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ShaneB posted:I can't tell you how much this frustrates me. Wait until you hear about all the kids climbing v10 in a year now.
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May 12, 2019 17:40
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KingColliwog posted:Coming from 15 years of judo and bjj with strength training focused on not building too much mass was a pretty awesome starting platform. Also my gym grades might just be softer than yours. Make sure you're not gaining leg mass in the process. Maintaining strength is good, but any added leg mass is detrimental.
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May 13, 2019 01:14
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Ubiquitus posted:Make sure you're not gaining leg mass in the process. Maintaining strength is good, but any added leg mass is detrimental. *Looks at aging, late 30s body* 
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May 13, 2019 01:32
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spwrozek posted:Today I went climbing only the road was closed due to mud and snow. So I did not go Rock climbing. I could have gone to clear Creek but oh well. Where were you trying to go, Devil’s Head? It was nice at Shelf today.
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May 13, 2019 04:13
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Ubiquitus posted:Make sure you're not gaining leg mass in the process. Maintaining strength is good, but any added leg mass is detrimental. Counterpoint: squats rule (just not for climbing) Does anyone have the link handy for the theraflex bar elbow exercises? ShaneB posted:*Looks at aging, late 30s body* *looks at aging, mid 30’s body*
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May 13, 2019 04:30
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I did fake lead a 5.9 today and sail through a random 5.10a today so that felt cool. Baby steps.
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May 13, 2019 05:07
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remote control carnivore posted:Where were you trying to go, Devil’s Head? It was nice at Shelf today. Yeah DH. They or a temp closure back in on Wednesday to keep the dirt bikes off the trails up there. I can't imagine how hot shelf was, also not a great day trip from Denver, you always get some stupidity on 25 coming home.
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May 13, 2019 13:39
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spwrozek posted:Yeah DH. They or a temp closure back in on Wednesday to keep the dirt bikes off the trails up there. I can't imagine how hot shelf was, also not a great day trip from Denver, you always get some stupidity on 25 coming home. There was a pleasant cool breeze so Shelf was nice yesterday. But totally understand on the I25 shitshow; that often goes into my calculus of where I am going to go climb. I wanted to get out leading yesterday, but my leg is bothering me pretty bad. Following up with an orthopedist here in the Springs to figure out what is going on. I'm more than a year out from ACL surgery; this is bullcrap! Feeling a little down because the last few summers have basically been impacted by injury, or work horsecrap getting in the way of climbing. I don't work summers anymore, which is nice, but I'd also like to, y'know, have functional limbs and be able to climb and not be recovering from surgery.  Sorry I just wanted to vent my spleen to a forum full of climbers. I have ambitions to lead 5.10d trad and as age 40 approaches and I see my summer go by, I'm just not sure I'll ever get there.
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May 13, 2019 22:21
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You totally can do it. You can climb hard well into your 50s.
spwrozek fucked around with this message at 05:27 on May 14, 2019 |
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May 14, 2019 03:44
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Climbing is a lifetime sport if you're careful and treat your body right.
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May 14, 2019 05:18
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remote control carnivore posted:I wanted to get out leading yesterday, but my leg is bothering me pretty bad. Following up with an orthopedist here in the Springs to figure out what is going on. I'm more than a year out from ACL surgery; this is bullcrap! I have ambitions to lead 5.10d trad and as age 40 approaches and I see my summer go by, I'm just not sure I'll ever get there. Previously, I pretty much stop training when ever I got injured, but these days I just train around it and push through it when outside. I do have to be mindful of the injuries when outside, warm up properly and identify problematic movements. Hell, I sent a 7b+ last week and I only had to figure out some less shouldery beta to accomodate a torn rotator cuff muscle and exclude a drop knee for my damaged meniscus.
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May 14, 2019 12:38
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spwrozek posted:You totally can do it. You can climb hard well into your 50s. jokes on you im gonna climb hard terribly into my 50s
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May 14, 2019 14:32
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hosed up my finger ughhhh
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May 15, 2019 01:16
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Hot Diggity! posted:hosed up my finger ughhhh I’m just finishing a finger rehab. Take time and slowly rehabilitate it
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May 15, 2019 07:42
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Trying to set up my summer routine and I’m getting a bit more concrete in my head. Weekends are off limit. Monday : climbing (projecting) Tuesday : climbing (4x4) weightlifting Wednesday : yoga/active recovery Thursday : climbing (30 mins projecting then volume on grades I can flash or do in a couple attempts), weightlifting Friday : climbing (easy or hard depending on how I feel, but probably pretty social night) Would this be a good way to structure it?
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May 15, 2019 15:55
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Mezzanon posted:I’m just finishing a finger rehab. Take time and slowly rehabilitate it Yeah, don't think it's too serious, but time to wrap it at night and take a couple weeks off. At least now I have no reason to not start running again...
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May 15, 2019 16:20
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Hot Diggity! posted:Yeah, don't think it's too serious, but time to wrap it at night and take a couple weeks off. At least now I have no reason to not start running again... I am on the tail end of this program. I don't know if it helped my finger get better faster, but at least it's something to do. https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries.html
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May 16, 2019 04:02
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Electoral Surgery posted:I am on the tail end of this program. I don't know if it helped my finger get better faster, but at least it's something to do. +1 for that bd rehab post
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May 16, 2019 04:07
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I just got back from a vacation to Paris that I had planned before I started climbing. About halfway through the trip I realized that Fontainebleau is ridiculously close, and it's all bouldering so I didn't have to learn ropes or anything. I proceeded to head out there with no guidebook, crashpad, or knowledge of any kind. I went to Bas Cuvier because there was a google map location for it and it was on the road between Paris and Fontainebleau town. I spent a goony half hour walking around looking at boulders being too shy to approach anyone and admit my ignorance, but then I latched onto some folks from the UK and had an absolute blast. It was my first time climbing outside, and I can say for sure that I am hooked. This hobby is dope.
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May 16, 2019 12:50
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KingColliwog posted:Trying to set up my summer routine and I’m getting a bit more concrete in my head. Weekends are off limit. If you know you can do two days back to back, go for it. You can totally climb the day after projecting, provided you're redpointing something at your very limit where you only have two-three quality gos and it's not a slugfest. Personally my plans vary greatly depending on the weather and who I'll be climbing with.
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May 16, 2019 13:40
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Looking for any advice on picking out shoes for novice indoor climbing. A mix of bouldering and top rope. Or do I just get whatever is tightest fit without being painful? Going to MEC (Canada) later today to look.
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May 17, 2019 14:54
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Golluk posted:Looking for any advice on picking out shoes for novice indoor climbing. A mix of bouldering and top rope. Or do I just get whatever is tightest fit without being painful? Going to MEC (Canada) later today to look. I'm assuming they're your first shoe? Get a shoe that's tight but comfortable and not crazy expensive. The whole "get the tightest shoe" thing is not a great idea when you're a novice (and I've heard from different people that it's not a great idea in general)
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May 17, 2019 15:05
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Slimy Hog posted:The whole "get the tightest shoe" thing is not a great idea when you're a novice Why's that? Sounds counter-intuitive. My local gym just sells Evolv Nighthawk and... some other $80 pair of shoes that I can't recall the brand of (as well as some other brands for well over $100). I figure once the Free Rentals expires at the end of this month I'm going to grab those. They do 20% off for Members so that's way cheaper than Amazon. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 15:23 on May 17, 2019 |
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May 17, 2019 15:12
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Just try on as many as you are comfortable with. They should be snug and you don't want your toes to have so much room that they are swimming in the toe-box. If you are really green you might burn through your shoes in 6 months to a year. If that happens you'll have a much better idea of what you are looking for in a new shoe. Find something comfortable so you aren't discouraged from wearing them, and try different styles like lace-up/velcro closure because I've found they have different feels. I prefer lace-up aesthetically and for their fit, but I see loads of people who seem happy with velcro.
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May 17, 2019 15:21
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Sab669 posted:Why's that? Sounds counter-intuitive. When you're just starting out footwork is WAY more important than how tight your shoe is. You don't want space between your foot and shoe, but you also don't want to get a shoe that is so tight that you don't want to wear it/it shortens your climbing sessions due to pain or discomfort. Your shoe should be tight, but so many people give the "find the tightest pair you can shove your foot into and then size down" kind of advice and that's not going to end well because you're going to hate climbing. IMO (and this is only my opinion) instead of framing it as "get as tight a shoe as possible without it hurting" we need to start saying "get as tight a shoe as possible that is still comfortable to wear". You can always buy a new, tighter pair after a year of climbing, but you can't buy a looser pair if you've stopped climbing because your feet hurt. EDIT: BlancoNino is more articulate and succinct than I am.
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May 17, 2019 15:24
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So something like this should be OK? Seems to have decent reviews. https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5027-375/Tarantula-Rock-Shoes I was thinking it might be best to aim toward comfort for a first shoe. Seeing as I won't be trying to push off tiny divots anytime soon. Golluk fucked around with this message at 15:29 on May 17, 2019 |
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May 17, 2019 15:24
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Golluk posted:So something like this should be OK? Seems to have decent reviews. Yep! those are some of the most popular "first" shoes! But don't buy online, go into a store and try them on.
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May 17, 2019 15:26
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That, the evolv defy, and tanaya tanta are pretty much go to beginner shoes. I use the tanta as my gym shoe since it is only $85 at my gym.
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May 17, 2019 15:27
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Got'chya. "Tight enough but bearable for 90 minutes" seems to make a lot more sense, yea. It's interesting to note how my tolerance for tightness has improved in less than a month, though. Like the second day I went climbing I tried a size smaller than what I used the previous time and it was almost unbearable. I've flip flopped back and forth a few times since then but now I definitely prefer a size 9 over 10's. Been out of town just after my gym reset, and now I caught a cold. I just want to climb drat it 
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May 17, 2019 15:42
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Thanks for the advice on shoes. The other thing I'm looking to pick up is a harness. Seems like a much smaller selection of these, with nothing really standing out as far as numbers of reviews/rating. Though seems to be mostly positive from the 3 reviews on this: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5046-720/Zack-Harness Of course I'm willing to spend more on something that prevents me falling 20 feet.
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May 17, 2019 15:54
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I use a similar edlrid harness. I honestly have spent over $50 on one. BD makes a good harness as well. That harness well be good, just hang in it and see if it feels good.
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May 17, 2019 16:00
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im gonna spend 200 bucks on one of those sick rear end petzl or arcteryx ones with the cross weaved belts
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May 17, 2019 16:15
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Sab669 posted:Like the second day I went climbing I tried a size smaller than what I used the previous time and it was almost unbearable. I've flip flopped back and forth a few times since then but now I definitely prefer a size 9 over 10's. Sizes can definitely vary between manufacturers and even models within a manufacturer's range, so I would be careful with thinking you have to be a specific size etc. I hope you took off the flip-flops before climbing 
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May 17, 2019 16:42
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REI is offering 25 percent off all Scarpa shoes right now, and 20 percent on any full price item. It's a good spot for shoes, especially when starting out, because of their return policy.
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May 17, 2019 17:45
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Golluk posted:Thanks for the advice on shoes. The other thing I'm looking to pick up is a harness. Seems like a much smaller selection of these, with nothing really standing out as far as numbers of reviews/rating. You can't go wrong with a Black Diamond Momentum or a Petzl Corax as a starter harness.
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May 17, 2019 17:52
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Beginner climbers will tear up their shoes with crappy footwork so err on the side of cheaper ones - you'll be replacing them soon.
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May 17, 2019 19:25
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I've worn holes in both of the toes of my Butora Endeavors in about 3 and a half months. They're comfortable shoes but I wish I had done a little research because it seems a little ridiculous to have already worn the rubber off of the toe, even with my lousy footwork.
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May 17, 2019 20:52
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