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Kibbles n Shits posted:Whoops, forgot to put my mower (B&S engine) back and it got dumped on by an absolute torrent of rain. Other than draining the gas and changing the oil, what other bases should I cover before I try and start it again? If some el-cheapo box store type I'd fire the drat thing up. It can basically run with vegetable oil in the crankcase (which probably was spared of rain) and gas/ethanol blends which have water already.
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May 18, 2019 18:14
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:If some el-cheapo box store type I'd fire the drat thing up. It can basically run with vegetable oil in the crankcase (which probably was spared of rain) and gas/ethanol blends which have water already. Well you're probably right but I'm going to change the oil and put fresh gas in it just to be on the safe side. I also just recently put a new carb on it so I'm not ready for it to die yet, though if it did at least I'd have an excuse to go pick up a battery powered one like I've been wanting.
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May 18, 2019 18:35
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Try charging it first and testing it. It's beeabout 4 or 5 years so probably time for a new battery anyway. Hope it's not the alternator.. Is that something a parts store can test?
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May 18, 2019 20:02
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WerthersWay posted:I have to move across the country for 6 months for a job and won’t be taking my car. I don’t think I’ll be able to get someone to start it every now and then while I’m gone. Besides it needing a jump when I get back, is there anything I should worry about going wrong with it? Would this be worse for the battery? I'm coming from a motorcycle background but the battery uses more juice to crank and on bikes at least, the alternator doesn't do its best work unless you're above idle. Anecdote and all, but I left my car for my neighbour to do this when I was gone for 3 weeks last year and it wouldn't start when I got back, same car/battery was fine sitting for a month with no starting more recently.
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May 18, 2019 23:43
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Replaced battery, fixed car. Some dash lights on but I'm sure that's just from disconnecting the battery. Thanks all.
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May 19, 2019 00:09
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If anyone cares I bought that GMC 1500 truck I mentioned a few pages back. Planning on some por15 work to fix a few spots but otherwise shouldn't require much work at all. Feels like we got a good deal on it!
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May 19, 2019 01:07
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PaintVagrant posted:Thanks guys, didnt think about that, but I will take a deep look at em. Look specifically from underneath the driver's side, from the distribution block (roughly under the seat area) up forward, and also up under the cargo area. It's criminal that GM doesn't uses stainless brake lines.
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May 19, 2019 02:09
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simplefish posted:Welp, the tractor noise has come back and is more frequent now on my Toyota Estima (2000). Tractor doesn't quite describe it properly, it's more like the Land Rover Discovery TD5 that I used to have. Problem is the 1MZ-FE is supposed to be a 6 cylinder petrol, nit a 5 cylinder diesel. spankmeister posted:Get a scan tool and look at misfire data, narrow it down to which cylinder. Then diagnose that cylinder. Is there spark? Is there fuel? Is there compression? Thanks, I don't think it's a misfire though (althoygh I'll readily admit I'm quite unsure what one woukd sound like), and wouldn't that be strange to be happening in the very specific circumstances I described?
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May 19, 2019 03:11
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92 ram van/318 v8: Today I got the click-CLUNK and non start again. Was able to get it going by whacking it, but clearly this is a near future thing. Is this a component I can replace or rebuild in the starter, or am I just replacing the entire thing? I ask because rockauto has a "starter repair kit" and I don't know what exactly it fixes. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1992,b250,5.2l+v8,1073685,electrical,starter+motor+repair+kit,4184
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May 19, 2019 04:21
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That looks like new brushes, solenoid contacts, and seals. Personally, I'd just replace the whole starter. While those components are the most likely failures, they're far from the only things that can break.
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May 19, 2019 04:26
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"most likely" enough to bet $20 on it before I dump $70 into the cheapest reman starter Napa here has?
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May 19, 2019 04:38
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wesleywillis posted:3 cylinder non-road diesel engine. Quoting myself. Anyone? Anyone? Anyone? Anyone? Beuller? Beuller?..........
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May 19, 2019 05:44
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Does anyone have a secret for getting hard-to-find in store parts fast? I was going to get some valve stem seals from Amazon using Prime but they sold out between the time I looked them up at work and the time I went to buy them at home. Seems like Tuesday is the soonest any of the stores in town can get them unless the dealership has some in stock (Ow, my wallet). If it was a metal part I'd hit a junkyard, but the part that is probably worn out is rubber so the rubber would be just as bad on the replacements, and I'd probably be spending several hours getting the drat things out assuming they don't insist on selling the whole engine at once. Uh, valve guides/valve stem seals aren't rubber, for starters. You need to do (a) a compression test and (b) a leakdown test before you load the parts cannon and dig yourself deeper on the Escort. Valve guides/valve stem seals don't fail suddenly either; worst case, you wind up smoking a bit at idle and a big poof of smoke when you step on it to leave a stop after it's been idling awhile, and maybe some smoke if you downshift and let off the gas (and you would have had a bit of blue smoke on a cold start for a long time now). Not the sudden failure you experienced. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:05 on May 19, 2019 |
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May 19, 2019 10:00
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Would this be worse for the battery? I'm coming from a motorcycle background but the battery uses more juice to crank and on bikes at least, the alternator doesn't do its best work unless you're above idle. Yes. You shouldn't start it unless you're going to drive it. All you're doing is wearing down the battery and introducing moisture into the crankcase that won't get burned off since the oil isn't going to get up to temperature. Put it on a tender or disconnect the battery.
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May 19, 2019 20:41
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STR posted:Uh, valve guides/valve stem seals aren't rubber, for starters. Valve guides are usually metal (bronze?) but every stem seal I've seen is some form of rubber.
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May 19, 2019 20:58
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Got a possible problem with a 2016 VW Polo 1.2 SE. Bought the car around 3 weeks ago from a secondhand dealer. Was my first car so was a bit overwhelmed by the process and ignored a weird sound that I could hear when braking at low speeds. Did a bit of googling and found someone else's perfect description - like the noise of a secret stone door sliding out of the way in an Indian Jones film. Sounds like it's coming from the front brakes. Took the car to my local chain garage (Kwik Fit) who told me that my front brake discs were below the recommended limits (17.4mm and 18.4mm when they should be 19mm or more) and the pads were around 4mm on either side and would also need to be replaced. The guy, however, didn't seem convinced that this would be causing the noise. Googling also turned up the possibility that the metal plate that backs on to the disc might be pushing against the disc - not sure if that means I should be hearing it all time time though? Can only hear anuthing when I brake at low speeds. I can return the car within 30 days to the dealer which is a massive headache for all involved but I'd like some info before I go back and tell him the brakes are buggered. I want to arm myself with facts and ideas as the dealer may pay to fix the car - at least that's the impression I'm getting from website on UK consumer law. Pics below. LEFT BRAKE  RIGHT BRAKE  Help and ideas much appreciated.
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May 19, 2019 22:00
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Need to see what the inboard pads look like
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May 19, 2019 22:11
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From the shots it appears plenty (and I use that term relatively) of pad material and the pads look like they are OEM. But I'm assuming a floating caliper design and who knows what the the other pad looks like like the previous post asked. It could be shot.
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May 20, 2019 01:18
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If there's plenty if material left I've gotta think they're low quality pads or somethings up with the rotor. Both or those are relatively easy to do yourself. Welcome to car ownership.
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May 20, 2019 03:04
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Is it just the lighting or is that left rotor not connected to the hub?
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May 20, 2019 03:07
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Based on the sound of a sliding stone, check closely for a stuck rock.
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May 20, 2019 03:23
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brand engager posted:Is it just the lighting or is that left rotor not connected to the hub? Lighting.
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May 20, 2019 04:35
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Assuming the inside pads aren't completely gone I would say those brakes are worn but far from worn out. Seeing as you just bought it from a dealer it may have been sitting on the lot for a time and has built up corrosion/moisture on the pad surface. I would deglaze the pads and bed them in again.
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May 20, 2019 06:09
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Ok, First, the worse case scenario is a brake job. Pads/rotors. Maybe a bad caliper with uneven wear. Yes, there is usually a "shield" that sits on the hub. Sometimes it can rub but given the year and the mileage that would be a reach. Pretty much established something is "shot" up front based on what you described. Second, welcome to car ownership. A lot of us here want to help. For the love of god, don't take your vehicle to that type of place. You are across the pond from me but from what I read it sounds like Jiffy Lube here in the US. And don't take it to the dealer unless you have deep pockets. I know, crappy advice right? Hard to explain, you have to find a shop you can trust. Third, besides this issue...are you happy with the car? Want to go through the hassle of returning it? Maybe the previous owner already cooked/warped the rotors and the dealership turned them which resulted in the out of spec measurements. In short, don't throw in the towel just yet.
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May 20, 2019 06:50
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Become a member on the UK VW owners club. If they are anything like the extremely helpful Alfa Romeo owners club, they'll have all kinds of info about where the best place to get parts is, guides and in your case - where to find a good competent mechanic.
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May 20, 2019 07:27
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STR posted:Uh, valve guides/valve stem seals aren't rubber, for starters. Like the other guy said, part of the seals are rubber, there’s a sort of rubber gasket as part of it. I see it on the pictures of all of the ones online. I probably won’t end up getting to it until next weekend, family emergency happened this weekend. The seals are coming from Amazon on Wednesday, I’ll either rent a compression tester or use my mechanic friend’s if he makes it over. Not sure what a leakdown test entails, I’ll have to look it up. Good news is I found my spark plug socket after all, I just need to make sure it’s the right size, can’t remember what size the Escort ones are. Copping to potentially being an idiot, could seriously overfilling oil cause a problem like that to get suddenly worse? That was the first time it had been driven any real distance after I topped off the oil, and it’s possible I put too much in. It sounds like it went into limp mode. It was still running, it still starts, but it wasn’t going to keep going at highway speeds. And there is an oil smell from the exhaust, but I’ve only had it running for maybe one minute since then between starting it to check for... something and pulling it into the garage. Edit: oh, that’s a leakdown test. What’s the point of doing both compression and leakdown? Seems like leakdown is more precise, from the article I’m reading at least. My friend has an air compressor in his vehicle because off-roading so we can do it. I want to get an air compressor of my own but I need to figure out if there will be room where I move this June. One place I’ve looked might have room for a very small one, but I need to see if there’s even an electrical outlet in that old-rear end manual-door garage. And see if there’s a voltage concern. My dad had a huge one in the shop he would use for air tools and filling tires, maybe 20 gallons, so that’s all I really have experience with. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 17:37 on May 20, 2019 |
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May 20, 2019 17:21
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So I think the intermittent misfire I've been having on my crown vic (code P0351 - "ignition primary/secondary circuit fault) is just down to a loose connector. I got out yesterday while it was consistently misfiring, a/c disabled and all, and when I jiggled the connector the compressor *immediately* kicked on; it was hard to feel vibrations under the hood but when i sat down the steering wheel had smoothed out like normal. Is there some glaring reason not to just zip tie it on and call it a day? it's the only cylinder that's done it, been happening periodically since i replaced all 8 coils back in like October.
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May 20, 2019 19:35
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Eh, maybe toss some dielectric grease at the connectors you suspect.
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May 20, 2019 20:58
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Toyota Sienna 2000 minivan fwd on normal street tires P205/70R15 on steel wheels. How low should I air down my tires? I'm going to be driving on some dirt roads in Mojave next weekend, some of which are probably going to be sandy. I'm not going to drive my minivan into a shitload of sand, that would be stupid. But it seems reasonable to let some air out, yeah? How low is reasonable, since I absolutely do not want unpleasant surprises like the bead unseating, etc. I have a compressor to air back up. (I also have multiple backup plans in case I get stuck. It will be a huge hassle, but I'm not really in any danger of dying in the desert.) edit: stock recommended pressure is 35/35 ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:32 on May 21, 2019 |
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May 21, 2019 02:36
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Update on 2000 Toyota Estima with 1MZ-FE The tractor noise got really bad today I was driving along an old forestry logging gravel track so lots of slow driving (10km/hr max), bumps, and hills. It got tractory towards the end of the track, maybe 4km each way. The speed doesn't seem to matter, it was 1250rpm. At the end of the track I pulled up somewhere level, shifted into neutral, and went through the whole rev range - no tractor noise. Setting off in gear - tractor noise back again at aeound 1250rpm. Not above 1500 for certain, not under 1000 for certain. Turned onto the main road and got up to speed, slight downhill this time, massive tractor noise at like 2800rpm, which is a new one. Eased off the accelerator, held it under 2000rpm for like a minute, tractor noise gone for rest of journey So it's after slow driving, only when there's load on the engine that there's a noise like an old diesel engine, only for a narrow RPM band. I'm thinking oil not being moved around like it should? But that's a total guess. simplefish fucked around with this message at 06:03 on May 21, 2019 |
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May 21, 2019 05:52
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Crossposting from the Audi thread: Can someone help me quickly diagnose the severity of this light? My girlfriend just called me and told me this "min oil" light came on while she was driving home. Edit: She states that the light came on when she was about half way home and the engine was warm. It did not alert when the car was cold. She drove it all the way home and sent me these photos. I interpreted these lights, as she described them, while driving, that the engine hasn't lost all of the oil so this hopefully isn't one of those "catastrophic failure"/idiot lights, but I'm not all that familiar with Audis. The car is a 2016 TTS. What oil brand/weight should I top the car up with? It's still under warranty. Should we schedule a service visit for this, after topping it up?  
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May 21, 2019 06:48
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simplefish posted:Update on 2000 Toyota Estima with 1MZ-FE That really sounds like a broken flex pipe or a pipe that's broken loose from an exhaust manifold. Have you been under it with it running? I'm betting you're gonna find a huge exhaust leak.
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May 21, 2019 07:35
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2016 TTS Owner's Manual PDF Good news! That's the oil level light, not the oil pressure light (that one's red and means pull over and turn off the engine right loving now). the manual, pg. 15 posted:You may continue driving for the time being . Check the engine oil level as soon as possible. Regarding what type of oil to add, the manual insists only their special VW 502 00 or VW 504 00 oil be used. Although in dire circumstances, such as your own, it grudgingly gives permission to use a little bit of peasant-grade normal synthetic. the manual, pg. 241 posted:If you need to add oil and there is none available that meets the Audi oil quality standard your engine requires, you may add a total of no more than 0.5 qt/l of a high-quality "synthetic" oil that meets the following specifications: Disclaimer: I don't know anything about Audis. I'm just quoting the manual. Edit: Here's the list of approved oils. Mobil 1 0W-40 should be easy to find in any auto parts store. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 07:47 on May 21, 2019 |
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May 21, 2019 07:36
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A lot of oils already meet all of those manufacturer specifications. Not sure about the US domestic brands but the bigger brands here in Europe all support the VW, BMW, etc specs. I'm sure you'll be able to find one in an auto parts store that has 502 or 504. It's really not that special.
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May 21, 2019 07:56
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Yeah, I found the TSB after I had posted. BTW OP, you should probably take your car to the dealer and ask them to check it out unless the car already has a history of burning/leaking oil. New-ish cars shouldn't lose a quart or whatever between oil changes. Audi people please chime in if I'm wrong and these models are known to burn oil (in which case lol from a toyota owner).
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May 21, 2019 08:10
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this is a dumbshit question but I honestly cannot find anything close on google I have a 2017 ND miata. It does not have a telescoping steering wheel/column. The 2019 ND miata does. Is there some way I could somehow transplant the telescoping steering wheel/column into a 2017. Scionix fucked around with this message at 09:01 on May 21, 2019 |
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May 21, 2019 08:57
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STR posted:That really sounds like a broken flex pipe or a pipe that's broken loose from an exhaust manifold. Thanks, I'll take a look
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May 21, 2019 09:24
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Colostomy Bag posted:Ok, Thanks for the advice all. I really like the car and don’t want to return it, just thinking that I still have leverage with the dealer. Can any UK goons (or others) comment on whether this is something I could reasonably expect the dealer to fix? For free? Regarding pics of inside brake pads etc. I’m guessing I can’t get pics of any of that stuff without taking the wheels off? Not something I’m equipped to do unfortunately. Thanks for all the help guys. PS I can’t seem to see the level of brake fluid in the brake fluid tank. Which I guess means it’s either empty or too full to see. Is there a warning light for low brake fluid?
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May 21, 2019 10:47
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ryanrs posted:Audi people please chime in if I'm wrong and these models are known to burn oil (in which case lol from a toyota owner). My 07 GTI manual said that a quart every few thousand miles was acceptable. (it would burn about half a quart every 5,000 for me)
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May 21, 2019 11:21
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Nigel Tufnel posted:PS I can’t seem to see the level of brake fluid in the brake fluid tank. Which I guess means it’s either empty or too full to see. Is there a warning light for low brake fluid? The brake light should come on if it's that low, yes.
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May 21, 2019 13:14
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