Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

You are pulling a blade towards you that is also rotating towards you, so climb cutting is a dangerous possibility. Also when you return the blade back behind the fence, it’s still spinning and there is some chance of it catching the cutoff and flinging it all over the place, not to mention there is just a lot of room behind the blade to accidentally get some part of you. Just used for cross cutting, I don’t think they’re especially more dangerous than a chop saw, but a lot of them were marketed to be used for ripping by turning the head 90 degrees and that gets stupid dangerous fast.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

You are pulling a blade towards you that is also rotating towards you, so climb cutting is a dangerous possibility. Also when you return the blade back behind the fence, it’s still spinning and there is some chance of it catching the cutoff and flinging it all over the place, not to mention there is just a lot of room behind the blade to accidentally get some part of you. Just used for cross cutting, I don’t think they’re especially more dangerous than a chop saw, but a lot of them were marketed to be used for ripping by turning the head 90 degrees and that gets stupid dangerous fast.

mikeycp posted:

i didn't notice since i was concerned with it being straight when i was picking it out. i didn't think 3 dimensionally...

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Broke a tire on my old delta bandsaw and asked the local hardware store if they had a replacement, he looked it up and said oh that's discontinued I wouldn't break anything else on it, also no. Real protip in my opinion. Online it is!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

You can get urethane ones made up in any size I just can’t remember where I’ve gotten them before. Changing bandsaw tires suuuuucks. I’d go ahead and replace both at the same time.

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

I've been told https://www.ereplacementparts.com is good so I'm going to grab a 2pack from there and Amazon and see how they look. I've replaced tires once before a long time ago and it blew but cant remember much else, not too excited to do it again but whatever. Guess if I'm getting two and doing it for one wheel I might as well do both. Any tricks? Plug it and turn it on first?

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

I've been told https://www.ereplacementparts.com is good so I'm going to grab a 2pack from there and Amazon and see how they look. I've replaced tires once before a long time ago and it blew but cant remember much else, not too excited to do it again but whatever. Guess if I'm getting two and doing it for one wheel I might as well do both. Any tricks? Plug it and turn it on first?

Falco posted:

I went with these on my old 1960's 14" Delta.

https://ebay.to/2JSZ676

Falco posted:

I went with these on my old 1960's 14" Delta. They have worked out really well. Soaking them in hot water first, and they include an "installation tool" which is essentially just a nail with a little roller sleeve over it, but it did help.

https://ebay.to/2JSZ676

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

My old shop teacher from high school, this is going back 16 years, said band saws when they break unravel and can seriously injure people around by whipping around the room.
I’ve always been terrified of them because of this.

Is there any truth to this?

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Okay I said I was going to make an post about making a bed and so here’s a post about making a bed. Sorry for
Walk over to your mortiser:

Oh did the trucking company shove your mortiser off the back of the truck? Don’t worry, it weighs 2200 pounds and is solid cast iron and made in 1950 and it doesn’t even mind.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Okay I said I was going to make an post about making a bed and so here’s a post about making a bed. Sorry for
First, you need a big ole pile of mahogany:

Not actually that pile of mahogany, you need one with some some 2” thick stuff and some 3 or 4” thick stuff and some 1” thick stuff. Or glue some 2" stuff into 4" stuff. Mostly 2” thick stuff.

Do boring stuff to your wood like face join it and plane it and rip it and bop it and twist it until you have 4 pieces 1.75” thick x 4.75” wide x as long as your bed rails need to be (60”x80” for a queen like me and 76”x80” for a king. Oh wait I lied, that’s how long they should be after you tenon them, so they should be an inch longer). Then you’re gonna need some posts. This bed is a pencil post with low foot posts because people are terrible and have TVs in their bedroom and don’t want bedposts between their beady eyes and the idiot box, so it’s got two posts 2.75” sq x 83” and two short foot posts 2.75” sq x 24.” You need a headboard too. In this case it’s about 22” wide and that’s a nice size. I didn’t take a picture of all that wood but you can use your imaginations and pretend there is a picture of some nicely milled wood right here:



Now we need to turn those chunks of wood into a pencil post. A real pencil post is a great looking post that tapers evenly on 8 sides, not some chunky pyramid with a chamfer run on the edges. IMHO they're a pretty timeless thing that fits well with contemporary styles and traditional stuff and they’re about the only beds I seem to build anymore because nobody wants real, turned 4 posters because they are all minimalist philistines On antique beds, often the headposts were pencil posts because they were cheaper to make (If you’re a handtool person you can make one with a drawknife and a plane) and they were usually covered by fabric/drapery/mosquito netting. Four poster beds were all about showing off your awesome collection of expensive fabric anyway.
Okay so we need a big damned taper jig that will taper the 4 faces of a square and then cut off and taper the corners too. Good thing that’s pretty simple and you can make one in about an hour. Looks like this:

Cut some wood (you have a bandsaw right? Bandsaw is the best saw-and safest too):


The taper starts 32” from the bottom of the post and tapers to 1.125” wide at the top. How do those corners work? Make stopping cuts 5/8” deep 32” from the bottom:

That square corner makes a rather ungraceful transition from octagon to square, so get out your chisel and carve a nice little lamb’s tongue:

Now we have to get rid of all those saw marks too. This is some interlocked, cross grain African mahogany that tears out if you look at it wrong, so to the belt sander we go. This part is really hard-all 8 faces need to be the same width and belt sanders aren’t exactly precision instruments but I’ve done this a few times and you can sort it out with an orbital sander. If you’re using more hand tool friendly wood, use a handplane/spokeshave.
That looks better:


Almost forgot about those stupid low footposts-throw them on the lathe and turn a little button on them and ease the corners so they look a little nicer:

Stick those posts in a corner and forget about them for 2 weeks while you do something else.

Oh yeah we need some rails too, don’t we?
Cut a big honking 7/8”wide x 1/2” long tenon on the end of those mothers. I use a crosscut sled and a dado set and it does fine and hasn’t cut my fingers off yet.


Those look nice. Now we need to drill some holes in them and smash some hardware into those holes:


Glue up some boards for a headboard too. You already know how to do that. Cut everything off those boards that doesn’t look like a headboard.

Now we need some holes in the posts for those bolts to go through and some mortises for those tenons to fit in. Be careful and lay it all out pretty (you have a mortising gauge right?) and drill some holes:


Walk over to your mortiser:

Oh did the trucking company shove your mortiser off the back of the truck? Don’t worry, it weighs 2200 pounds and is solid cast iron and made in 1950 and it doesn’t even mind. Use it (or your router or a drill press and a chisel or just a chisel) to punch some holes:



Now put it all together, and you have a badly backlit bed:

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

My old shop teacher from high school, this is going back 16 years, said band saws when they break unravel and can seriously injure people around by whipping around the room.
I’ve always been terrified of them because of this.

Is there any truth to this?

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Okay I said I was going to make an post about making a bed and so here’s a post about making a bed. Sorry for
First, you need a big ole pile of mahogany:

Not actually that pile of mahogany, you need one with some some 2” thick stuff and some 3 or 4” thick stuff and some 1” thick stuff. Or glue some 2" stuff into 4" stuff. Mostly 2” thick stuff.

Do boring stuff to your wood like face join it and plane it and rip it and bop it and twist it until you have 4 pieces 1.75” thick x 4.75” wide x as long as your bed rails need to be (60”x80” for a queen like me and 76”x80” for a king. Oh wait I lied, that’s how long they should be after you tenon them, so they should be an inch longer). Then you’re gonna need some posts. This bed is a pencil post with low foot posts because people are terrible and have TVs in their bedroom and don’t want bedposts between their beady eyes and the idiot box, so it’s got two posts 2.75” sq x 83” and two short foot posts 2.75” sq x 24.” You need a headboard too. In this case it’s about 22” wide and that’s a nice size. I didn’t take a picture of all that wood but you can use your imaginations and pretend there is a picture of some nicely milled wood right here:



Now we need to turn those chunks of wood into a pencil post. A real pencil post is a great looking post that tapers evenly on 8 sides, not some chunky pyramid with a chamfer run on the edges. IMHO they're a pretty timeless thing that fits well with contemporary styles and traditional stuff and they’re about the only beds I seem to build anymore because nobody wants real, turned 4 posters because they are all minimalist philistines On antique beds, often the headposts were pencil posts because they were cheaper to make (If you’re a handtool person you can make one with a drawknife and a plane) and they were usually covered by fabric/drapery/mosquito netting. Four poster beds were all about showing off your awesome collection of expensive fabric anyway.
Okay so we need a big damned taper jig that will taper the 4 faces of a square and then cut off and taper the corners too. Good thing that’s pretty simple and you can make one in about an hour. Looks like this:

Cut some wood (you have a bandsaw right? Bandsaw is the best saw-and safest too):


The taper starts 32” from the bottom of the post and tapers to 1.125” wide at the top. How do those corners work? Make stopping cuts 5/8” deep 32” from the bottom:

That square corner makes a rather ungraceful transition from octagon to square, so get out your chisel and carve a nice little lamb’s tongue:

Now we have to get rid of all those saw marks too. This is some interlocked, cross grain African mahogany that tears out if you look at it wrong, so to the belt sander we go. This part is really hard-all 8 faces need to be the same width and belt sanders aren’t exactly precision instruments but I’ve done this a few times and you can sort it out with an orbital sander. If you’re using more hand tool friendly wood, use a handplane/spokeshave.
That looks better:


Almost forgot about those stupid low footposts-throw them on the lathe and turn a little button on them and ease the corners so they look a little nicer:

Stick those posts in a corner and forget about them for 2 weeks while you do something else.

Oh yeah we need some rails too, don’t we?
Cut a big honking 7/8”wide x 1/2” long tenon on the end of those mothers. I use a crosscut sled and a dado set and it does fine and hasn’t cut my fingers off yet.


Those look nice. Now we need to drill some holes in them and smash some hardware into those holes:


Glue up some boards for a headboard too. You already know how to do that. Cut everything off those boards that doesn’t look like a headboard.

Now we need some holes in the posts for those bolts to go through and some mortises for those tenons to fit in. Be careful and lay it all out pretty (you have a mortising gauge right?) and drill some holes:


Walk over to your mortiser:

Oh did the trucking company shove your mortiser off the back of the truck? Don’t worry, it weighs 2200 pounds and is solid cast iron and made in 1950 and it doesn’t even mind. Use it (or your router or a drill press and a chisel or just a chisel) to punch some holes:



Now put it all together, and you have a badly backlit bed:

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Bandsaws are probably the safest power tool used for cutting wood there is.

Jaded Burnout posted:

Skillsaw maybe? Light blades and the back and forth would bounce your thumb away where the bandsaw will happily keep chewing.

Mr. Mambold posted:

Are you joking? No loving way. You got 2 1/2 horsepower in a portable tool the size of a shoebox. Being overpowered by the toolinto chaos territory is the problem and bandsaws aren't made to do that. Although, granted, a battery powered saw is drastically less unpredictable.

Jaded Burnout posted:

Whoops, I meant scroll saws. I was very confused at both "portable" and "shoebox".

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

What an amazing post! Really cool of you to share all that I'm really feeling that jig you made. I was NOT ready for the mortiser Is that for yourself? Super jealous

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Dang, thanks for writing all that up! My own plans feel super inadequate now. Oh well, it's a learning project in many ways anyway. If/when I ever do a second bed it'll turn out much better, I'm sure.

I feel like getting the top tenon on the headboard aligned properly with the mortise on the tapering pencil post must be a bit of a pain in the rear end.

Huxley posted:

I like how you always managed to keep the Kreg jig just out of frame.

JEEVES420 posted:

Honestly a dull blade brain is the most dangerous thing in a shop.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Okay I said I was going to make an post about making a bed and so here’s a post about making a bed. Sorry for
First, you need a big ole pile of mahogany:

Not actually that pile of mahogany, you need one with some some 2” thick stuff and some 3 or 4” thick stuff and some 1” thick stuff. Or glue some 2" stuff into 4" stuff. Mostly 2” thick stuff.

Do boring stuff to your wood like face join it and plane it and rip it and bop it and twist it until you have 4 pieces 1.75” thick x 4.75” wide x as long as your bed rails need to be (60”x80” for a queen like me and 76”x80” for a king. Oh wait I lied, that’s how long they should be after you tenon them, so they should be an inch longer). Then you’re gonna need some posts. This bed is a pencil post with low foot posts because people are terrible and have TVs in their bedroom and don’t want bedposts between their beady eyes and the idiot box, so it’s got two posts 2.75” sq x 83” and two short foot posts 2.75” sq x 24.” You need a headboard too. In this case it’s about 22” wide and that’s a nice size. I didn’t take a picture of all that wood but you can use your imaginations and pretend there is a picture of some nicely milled wood right here:



Now we need to turn those chunks of wood into a pencil post. A real pencil post is a great looking post that tapers evenly on 8 sides, not some chunky pyramid with a chamfer run on the edges. IMHO they're a pretty timeless thing that fits well with contemporary styles and traditional stuff and they’re about the only beds I seem to build anymore because nobody wants real, turned 4 posters because they are all minimalist philistines On antique beds, often the headposts were pencil posts because they were cheaper to make (If you’re a handtool person you can make one with a drawknife and a plane) and they were usually covered by fabric/drapery/mosquito netting. Four poster beds were all about showing off your awesome collection of expensive fabric anyway.
Okay so we need a big damned taper jig that will taper the 4 faces of a square and then cut off and taper the corners too. Good thing that’s pretty simple and you can make one in about an hour. Looks like this:

Cut some wood (you have a bandsaw right? Bandsaw is the best saw-and safest too):


The taper starts 32” from the bottom of the post and tapers to 1.125” wide at the top. How do those corners work? Make stopping cuts 5/8” deep 32” from the bottom:

That square corner makes a rather ungraceful transition from octagon to square, so get out your chisel and carve a nice little lamb’s tongue:

Now we have to get rid of all those saw marks too. This is some interlocked, cross grain African mahogany that tears out if you look at it wrong, so to the belt sander we go. This part is really hard-all 8 faces need to be the same width and belt sanders aren’t exactly precision instruments but I’ve done this a few times and you can sort it out with an orbital sander. If you’re using more hand tool friendly wood, use a handplane/spokeshave.
That looks better:


Almost forgot about those stupid low footposts-throw them on the lathe and turn a little button on them and ease the corners so they look a little nicer:

Stick those posts in a corner and forget about them for 2 weeks while you do something else.

Oh yeah we need some rails too, don’t we?
Cut a big honking 7/8”wide x 1/2” long tenon on the end of those mothers. I use a crosscut sled and a dado set and it does fine and hasn’t cut my fingers off yet.


Those look nice. Now we need to drill some holes in them and smash some hardware into those holes:


Glue up some boards for a headboard too. You already know how to do that. Cut everything off those boards that doesn’t look like a headboard.

Now we need some holes in the posts for those bolts to go through and some mortises for those tenons to fit in. Be careful and lay it all out pretty (you have a mortising gauge right?) and drill some holes:


Walk over to your mortiser:

Oh did the trucking company shove your mortiser off the back of the truck? Don’t worry, it weighs 2200 pounds and is solid cast iron and made in 1950 and it doesn’t even mind. Use it (or your router or a drill press and a chisel or just a chisel) to punch some holes:



Now put it all together, and you have a badly backlit bed: