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Fender Anarchist posted:So, update on this whole saga: Thankfully, I didn't have any trouble with the wiring doohickey. Are you sure that clip is complete? does it have both ends with the little hole for the pliers? Mine was only missing a 1/4-1/2" piece, which was plenty to get into the valve body and wedge that OD fluid valve. edit: opened the pic in a new tab. Lighting is bad, but it sure looks like the ends are both there. Could be other crud blocking that valve piston in the valve body.
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Dec 19, 2018 00:49
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I did pull the separator plate off the valve body and no visible debris anywhere, aside from some sludge coating a few of the deeper passages (it was similar to the stuff coating the magnet in the drain pan, had about the consistency of thermal paste). Even before I sprayed it down, I moved the valves I could with the piece of mechanic's wire i had and they all felt nice and smooth; i don't have picks or a skinny screwdiver strong enough to move the beefier ones he mentions in the video. Everything looks good though. The upper plate was still dripping when I was last under the car, as a last-ditch I'll take a look tomorrow and see if maybe the band slipped off the piston, or maybe if I can see any discoloration on it. I'll bust out my small jack and check the actual movement of the servo, watch through the inspection hole to see if it closes the band, maybe pull the clip out and visually inspect it. Other than that I have no idea where to go from here.
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Dec 19, 2018 01:11
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So, this is just kind of a brainstorming what could be wrong with my car. The story is that my 2004 Town car acts like it's only getting a little over 100 miles to a tank of gas, but it's otherwise running perfectly fine. The gas gauge doesn't work, which isn't helping diagnosis. It'll go fine until a bit over 100 miles on what should be a full tank, then quit like it's out of gas (quit suddenly while driving, a restart will let it run for a few seconds before it quits and wont' start again, cranks fine). Adding a couple of gallons from a can will allow the car to be driven just fine, but then a fill at a gas station will only put in something like 6 or 8 gallons (in what should be a ~20 gallon tank). It's done this on 2 consecutive tanks, and I just got home after having to put some gas in from a can. It's only done the "only takes 6-8 gallons from a station" thing once. Before these shenanigans started (~a month and one "fill" ago), I had filled it with ~18 gallons or more, probably a couple of dozen times over the last year. I know it sat for awhile (possibly a couple of years) at some point shortly before I bought it, so my thought is that it sat with gas in it, corroded the tank, and the strainer in the tank is full of crud. Fully filling the tank lifts up the crud layer to the point where the pickup gets fuel again. A coating of crud on the tank sender would also explain my fuel gauge issues (always seems to read half a tank lower than it should be). (side note: It'll drive for > a hundred miles on what should be fumes, going by the gauge, so I think the gauge is wrong. The digital range estimate thing agrees with the tank, and not real life as well). I've filled it with the normal amount of gas before, so it isn't just a massive pile of poo poo taking up space in my tank, and since the gas door locks I don't think anyone is siphoning it. I also haven't noticed any gas smell or colorful puddles under my car anywhere. I don't have time or space to drop the tank right now myself, and made an appointment at a dealership (ugh) to have them look at it Friday morning. I'm just trying to guess what the damage might be. I'm thinking probably not fuel filter (runs fine after adding gas), possibly fuel pump (but full vs half a tank of gas shouldn't effect that), possibly tank corrosion, and likely some sort of crud buildup on the pump/sender/pickup assembly. Again, I already made a dealership appointment, just trying to diagnose it myself before they take a look.
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Jan 10, 2019 07:48
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That sounds like the fuel pump. Years ago I went on a road trip with a friend in his 02 Ford Focus wagon and it did what you're describing. It would die if we let the tank get down to half a tank of gas. We just kept filling it up and limped it home, ended up being the fuel pump. I just had the stealership replace the fuel pump on my 03 about a month and a half ago. It was a butt hurting $1,000 bill. The pump is actually facing forward towards the rear diff and can be accessed without dropping the tank. The tricky part is there is a wire that goes over the tank so you might still end up having to drop it just to get to the connector. I wish I had done the job myself but I didn't have a garage, or time and I needed it back on the road asap.
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Jan 10, 2019 08:14
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Anybody ever have an issue with the idle air control valve? I get a weird buzzing/humming sound under light acceleration but it only seems to happen on cold mornings and goes away after the car warms up. I'm wondering if the IAC is starting to go but I'm not sure.
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Jan 16, 2019 08:26
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Huggable Bear King posted:Anybody ever have an issue with the idle air control valve? I get a weird buzzing/humming sound under light acceleration but it only seems to happen on cold mornings and goes away after the car warms up. I'm wondering if the IAC is starting to go but I'm not sure. The IAC uses PWM to open it a certain amount, similar to fuel injectors, rather than just full open or full close, so it pretty much always buzzes a little. Yours may be wearing its bushings, so it's getting a little sloppy and louder as a result. Could be something else, but this seems likely.
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Jan 16, 2019 17:25
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That makes sense, I'll have to check it out more when the weather gets warmer. Thank you!
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Jan 16, 2019 23:53
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Huggable Bear King posted:That makes sense, I'll have to check it out more when the weather gets warmer. Thank you! Just had a thought: I think the EGR also uses PWN to modulate opening, so may be a potential culprit as well.
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Jan 17, 2019 18:58
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Well, I drove all the way down to Austin and back for the Radwood car show. It was a blast! However, I was the only Panther platform car there! There was nothing else in the entire ford LTD / Crown Vic lineup! It was a shame! I was also an idiot and forgot to take pictures of my own car. However, I found pictures taken by some other people. Here's one from Stef Schrader from Drive.com and one from bringatrailer.com   So here's a fun story. Before I drove the four hours down to Austin for Radwood, I took my car to the local Ford dealer, because why not? I had a coupon and they've always been known to do good work. I actually ran into the dealer technicans that worked on my car at the show! They had the bronco in my photo set! Long story short, my power steering pump is leaking and I might have a main seal leak, but I have heard that is par for the course for these. I also talked to an LTD owner at the show who said it would be wise for me to replace all of the sensors in the engine regardless of the age and mileage. Also I found out I accidentally undid a smog-pump delete when I was trying to sort out the vacuum issue so now my car is emissions compliant but also crap on gas mileage! I averaged about 16mpg on the drive down... which the window sticker says I should be getting 24! Here are my photos from RadWood Austin: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3e4k9XFqbqKg7bzFA These are a little better, though! http://www.thedrive.com/news/26634/throw-it-back-with-this-mega-gallery-of-the-totally-dope-radwood-austin-show
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Mar 13, 2019 07:40
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I adore wagons with wood-texture sides. A Good Panther.
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Mar 13, 2019 11:13
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WIsh I'd had my brap-brap (RX-7) running to go. Only other thing I had that would be appropriate is my AE86, and it's ratty as poo poo. Pretty sure I know the guy with the grey S13, too. One of our RX-7 group members was wrapping and taking his S13, and I think that's it. Some neat stuff out there. I would drive either of those Buick wagons everywhere.
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Mar 13, 2019 23:15
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After about a year of non-trouble, the dim odometer on my 08 P71 finally went completely dead. At least, until I gave it a good whack. Hmm. Went out to buy dashboard bulbs, like all the econolines in our ambulance fleet had issues with, and discovered that the 06+ Crown Vics have LED dash lighting. Also discovered that they're plagued by RoHS solder problems, leading to bad joints. So, I pulled the instrument cluster. Oof, this is AFTER using plastX. Does anybody know what the instrument cluster glass itself is called? I can't find any for sale by itself. I think the cop fleet crew just used paper towels to clean it or something.  While I had the dash out, I cleaned the switches and re-bent the tabs for the headlight switch and cluster dimmer. They were all loose and floppy.  Scratch pens are your friend.  For those of you who may have the same issue, these are the pads most videos tell you to reflow. Saves you the time of skipping through a badly-lit, badly-narrated video by a Texan with an accent too thick to understand.  Reinstalled, and all bright again. This is a picture in full sun, even. I had washed the lens, taking the plastX with it. That said, it's not nearly as bad IRL as the camera is making it, with the autofocus focusing on the scratches and not the background.  (no picture but reapplying plastX afterwards has made it loads better, but I still need to give it a real polish or something) E: I did have to re-calibrate the temp gauge, because I had bumped it during soldering. To recalibrate the gauges, you hold the odometer button down while turning the key on. Keep holding it until "tESt" is displayed, and let go. It'll go through to the cluster test, and while it sweeps the gauges counter-clockwise you need to hold you finger on the misaligned gauge so it stops at the bottom of whatever scale you need it to be on. So, for the temp, I had to keep it from going back past the cold line. The gauges will then sweep up, and back down to zero - keep your finger held there until they're done. Afterwards, turn the key off, and do the procedure a second time without holding your finger as a stop pin - watch the gauges as they sweep through their range, and be sure the previously-misaligned one goes from the bottom to the top of whatever range. If it goes to the "top" and isn't lined up, do it a second time and calibrate your "finger stop point" accordingly. It took me a few tries but I eventually got it. Queen Combat fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Mar 14, 2019 |
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Mar 14, 2019 03:13
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That seems bad enough it might be worth getting some clear coat, spraying a thick layer on to fill the scratches, and sanding/polishing til it's clear again. Probably cheaper than finding just the window by itself, anyway.
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Mar 14, 2019 03:25
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I ought to do that. My odo's got the mysterious fading backlight going, and I'm just used to it because my XJ's cluster lights were 'whack the dashboard to see' level.
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Mar 14, 2019 05:09
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Oh also no Headlight switch plugged in means the headlights are on ALL THE TIME what kinda BS setup is that. FA did you ever figure your transmission problem out? Queen Combat fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Mar 14, 2019 |
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Mar 14, 2019 05:13
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Haven't had time to work on it and my workspace is occupied as a storage unit now, so...  I keep procrastinating on calling a trans shop (mostly because I'm getting used to driving without OD lol), need to hit Yelp or wherever and find a good place close by.Also for like a week I was having an intermittent misfire while warming up (with a p0351 code, cyl 1 ignition ckt) but I went and jiggled the coil and it seems to have cleared up, CEL even went off all on its own. Fuckin' connectors.
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Mar 14, 2019 06:40
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Queen Combat posted:Oh also no Headlight switch plugged in means the headlights are on ALL THE TIME what kinda BS setup is that. I think that's a failsafe in the event that your headlight switch fails, or like my 87, melt itself together at 5 in the morning on the highway! You'll at least be guaranteed light in the event of it not working!
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Mar 14, 2019 14:56
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It's a liiiitle better after reapplying PlastX, but really I should buy some buffing cones. Also the temp gauge reset again. I don't even know wtf and my next step is simply gluing a pin in there to give it a hard stop.
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Mar 14, 2019 15:09
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Queen Combat posted:Oh also no Headlight switch plugged in means the headlights are on ALL THE TIME what kinda BS setup is that. I discovered that one as well, when fitting the auto-headlamps option (which is pretty easy, BTW.) I have a new Motorcraft EGR valve sitting on my workbench ready to go in, to get rid of the P0401, or 02, or 03, whichever. Finally forced into it because inspection and reg are up at the end of the month. Means I will swap out the EGR, reset CEL, and then go drive until all the monitors are set, and get it tested, on Saturday. Luxrage posted:I think that's a failsafe in the event that your headlight switch fails, or like my 87, melt itself together at 5 in the morning on the highway! You'll at least be guaranteed light in the event of it not working! Meanwhile, the headlight relays in the Lighting Control Module (which is under recall) fail OFF... so it's a wash. Queen Combat posted:It's a liiiitle better after reapplying PlastX, but really I should buy some buffing cones. Pop the needle off and rotate?
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Mar 14, 2019 23:54
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So the car threw a code of "coolant temperature below thermostat range" or similar (I didn't take a screenshot before clearing it) with the needle below the C line for a drive. So, I took a sewing needle sharpied black and clipped and glued it as a kind of "gauge needle stop" below the C line. It's weird but after doing yet another gauge auto test with the stop in place, it works normally and there's no code. So, popping the needle off wouldn't have fixed it. We'll see how it works tomorrow in the cold morning weather, but I don't think it's a wiring thing. Totally  but if it works it works.
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Mar 15, 2019 00:17
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If it's stupid but it works... I did get the EGR on my Crown Vic taken care of. It's been setting a code P0403 for "EGR Control Circuit" for like 6 months or better. I replaced the EGR valve with an aftermarket one when I bought the car several years ago. This time I bought a Motorcraft part, which will hopefully last longer. This fucker right here:  New one:   Cool that it not only came with a new gasket, but new bolts. All better:  gently caress off, you broken turd:  I got it to set all monitors and got it inspected on Sunday so I can renew reg before the end of the month. Now I need to see if the random P0193 "Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High" code comes back again. If it does I'll replace the sensor. Eventually.
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Mar 18, 2019 21:53
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I'm wondering if I can get some help diagnosing an AC issue in my 03 GM. Most of the time the air only comes through the defrost and floor vents, but I can occasionally "trick" it into blowing through the main vents if I turn the air down and slowly dial it back up, and if I'm lucky it will start blowing through the vents. From a little bit of googling, I think this is the EATC needing some new o-rings, but could it be something else before I start taking the dash apart?
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May 31, 2019 00:07
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Could be a vacuum leak somewhere supplying the system. My Ranger would go floor vent if I went WOT long enough (which, being a 4cyl, was often)
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May 31, 2019 00:19
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I made a wildly helpful video for that problem ~10 years ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPMbdTpC9Tw e: but yes, do the o-ring fix Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:24 on May 31, 2019 |
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May 31, 2019 00:21
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As Nero Danced posted:I'm wondering if I can get some help diagnosing an AC issue in my 03 GM. Most of the time the air only comes through the defrost and floor vents, but I can occasionally "trick" it into blowing through the main vents if I turn the air down and slowly dial it back up, and if I'm lucky it will start blowing through the vents. From a little bit of googling, I think this is the EATC needing some new o-rings, but could it be something else before I start taking the dash apart? Time to look up EATC O-rings. CannonFodder fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 01:29
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So I did a thing. This part was very easy.  WIP  The offending o ring. It broke when I tried to remove it, the other 3 were fine.  I had to pry up these tabs to remove the solenoids, the foam crumbled apart because it's 15 years old, I think it's just there to show evidence that I worked on it and didn't just buy the part.  Installation is the reverse of removal. And I am bad at photography.  Yeah that's the stuff. It stayed on dash vents instead of defog or floor. Wait, what's this?  290704 Yep, those o rings were installed in 2004 for the 2005 model year. I fixed a thing 
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Jun 2, 2019 19:17
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My Vic is a cop car, so no automatic air. The blend door seems to work - I can see the lever arm and motor move when I switch vents - but I still get s little air out of the dash vents no matter what the setting. I figure the seal on the blend door is shot (foam?) or the door just isn’t moving enough. Normally, I just close the dash vents and all is well. Is my diagnostic likely, or is there maybe a simple fix I’m overlooking? I’m not taking the dash apart for such a minor issue, but if I’m in there for something else at some point...
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Jun 4, 2019 16:48
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Quick question, on later model Grand Marquis how does traction control function versus a Limited Slip Differential?
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Jun 4, 2019 20:38
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SimonCat posted:Quick question, on later model Grand Marquis how does traction control function versus a Limited Slip Differential? On all the Panthers I've driven the TCS has been incredibly invasive, but all of my experience is with older models. I'd assume the later models with throttle-by-wire can do a lot better since those can cut throttle rather than just trying to control wheelspin with the ABS system. In any case a LSD is always better than traction control on a RWD vehicle.
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Jun 4, 2019 21:45
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If I put a junkyard LSD in my 2004 Town Car, is it going to gently caress up the traction control?
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Jun 4, 2019 22:19
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TC typically cuts power and or uses ABS to reduce wheel slip under acceleration. An LSD is gonna prevent the spin from happening in the first place, and iirc they're all purely mechanical; it shouldn't interfere with the former at all, just reduce the amount of situations where TC is even needed.
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Jun 5, 2019 02:55
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Stupid car has developed a pretty bad rattle, sounds like it's coming from inside the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter. At first I thought it was an exhaust leak, because when leaving the parking lot the sound reverberating sounded kinda like a "chuff chuff chuff" of one, but it isn't. Upon further listening, I don't think it's coming from the engine bay, but I just CANNOT track it down. It's loud as hell when revving or when the engine (and therefore exhaust pipes) are shaking, but when it's idling it's almost gone. When the engine changes RPM (and therefore bucks a bit) when the AC compressor kicks in, I can hear the rattle. I think it's louder on the left side, but inspection with a flashlight reveals that all heatshields are perfectly intact, no corrosion at all (AZ car). This is going to drive me insane. It sounds like my car is falling apart, and I was going to sell it tomorrow. Maybe I'll make up a story about how the "mechanic left a nut" inside the exhaust pipe when the catalytic converters were replaced or something (they never have been, but it's that bad when revved up). Engine runs perfectly as before, no change in MPG. E: upon further research, probably the catalyst breaking up in one of the cats. drat. Thankfully (?) it sounds like it's on the post-sensor cats, so shouldn't be any issues to broomstick it until I can afford a real fix if it becomes a problem. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 05:55
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Queen_Combat posted:Stupid car has developed a pretty bad rattle, sounds like it's coming from inside the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter. At first I thought it was an exhaust leak, because when leaving the parking lot the sound reverberating sounded kinda like a "chuff chuff chuff" of one, but it isn't. Upon further listening, I don't think it's coming from the engine bay, but I just CANNOT track it down. It's loud as hell when revving or when the engine (and therefore exhaust pipes) are shaking, but when it's idling it's almost gone. When the engine changes RPM (and therefore bucks a bit) when the AC compressor kicks in, I can hear the rattle. I think it's louder on the left side, but inspection with a flashlight reveals that all heatshields are perfectly intact, no corrosion at all (AZ car).
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Jun 5, 2019 13:14
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Welp, went out this morning with a rubber mallet. Tapped around, nothing, so I had to let the car heat up a bit. After about 30 seconds, rattle rattle rattle. The exhaust is mounted too solidly for me to actually move things around with a mallet, but I could wedge the mallet between a cat and the floorpan and apply some pressure, and when I did so on the right side the rattling immediately got quieter/less bad. Welp, probably upper passenger side cat. Hopefully it doesn't break up badly enough to rob power. There are a few allegedly-new 49-state cats on ebay for $150 and $250, with a ton of other listings at $800. Makes me wonder what's wrong with the $150 listing, but whatever.
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Jun 5, 2019 16:57
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wolrah posted:On all the Panthers I've driven the TCS has been incredibly invasive, but all of my experience is with older models. I'd assume the later models with throttle-by-wire can do a lot better since those can cut throttle rather than just trying to control wheelspin with the ABS system. It's still pretty invasive, but basically what happens with DBW is that the go pedal don't go no more when it's slipping. It's pretty irritating. Fortunately, the off button actually works. boxen posted:If I put a junkyard LSD in my 2004 Town Car, is it going to gently caress up the traction control? My '05 P71 has TCS and LSD. It's fine.
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Jun 6, 2019 23:21
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CannonFodder posted:So I did a thing. Mine has the same behavior yours did (cycling through different vents on its own), I'm going to do the O-rings this weekend. Thanks for the pics, your post and a youtube walkthrough I found are pretty helpful. In the meantime I've done much more critical work, like making my car look pretty. My headlights were pretty faded and scratched, and since it's an 03 and marauder parts fit, I was able to give my car some mascara (it's going through a goth phase, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND DAD!!)     At some point I'll replace that bumper cover with one that doesn't have a big dent on the underside. I might get a marauder bumper with fog lights, but I've been thinking of doing some questionable things to the car (mad max things) and putting the fog lights somewhere else. That's way down the road though. Edit: Thanks again CannonFodder, 2 o-rings broke when I removed them, and now it listens to me when I tell it which vent to blow through. As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jun 23, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 16:51
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Anybody got a good source for interior parts (i.e. replacement seats, etc.). I'm ready to pay a little more to avoid the junkyard. 01 Marquis LS if it matters.
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Jun 21, 2019 01:23
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Pershing posted:Anybody got a good source for interior parts (i.e. replacement seats, etc.). I'm ready to pay a little more to avoid the junkyard. 01 Marquis LS if it matters. Good luck. I've been trying to find a decent source of aftermarket CVPI seats for two years now with no joy. Pretty much resigned to just buying all new foam and restoring the current seats because all the junkyard ones I can find are cop-assed to death like mine.
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Jun 21, 2019 07:12
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Liquid Communism posted:Good luck. I've been trying to find a decent source of aftermarket CVPI seats for two years now with no joy. Pretty much resigned to just buying all new foam and restoring the current seats because all the junkyard ones I can find are cop-assed to death like mine. Only thing I can think of would be to see if the passenger foam can be made to fit the driver's side. I haven't looked closely. My P71 driver's seat is, as you say, cop-assed to death, as well. I've got a set of Grand Marquis seats that came out of the same car as my back seat, and I'll probably cut them down to allow my center console (you cut off the seat pan extension that goes over the hump, and do a little upholstery work.) Saw it done somewhere on Crownvic.net, I believe. edit: Some Town Cars have bucket seats as well. My notes say all 98+, most with a independent jump-seat/armrest. Town Car rear seats will fit in a CV/GM, if you want matching. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jun 24, 2019 |
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Jun 24, 2019 21:36
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| # ? May 10, 2024 19:28 |
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My 03' Grand Marquis is still a champ. I recently switched jobs and I'm putting 60 miles a day on it with my commute. I'm getting 22 mpg which isn't bad. The AC was getting weak so I recharged it last weekend and now it's ice cold again. Sadly the bottom of the doors and the fenders are rusting out, I'm starting to look for a replacement but it's hard. Nothing matches the comfort and simplicity of these cars. I bought it used ten years ago and it's been the best car i've ever owned.
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Jul 7, 2019 03:10
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