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Scionix posted:Heyo, just wanted to follow up on this because Soul Speed is the only shop I've found willing to take on my steering column swap. Do you think you could elaborate on what problems you had with them? Feel free to just PM me instead of cluttering the thread. I don't have plat. I guess I've been here long enough that I should buy it... My girlfriend had a 2010 Hyundai 3.8 Gen Coupe. At some point while owning it, I would notice that the car would not track straight on smooth payment. It always pulled to the right and she was getting some uneven tire wear. We arranged to have Soulspeed do an alignment and brake fluid flush for something like $190, maybe? I don't recall the price, but it seemed reasonable enough. We pick up the car and sure enough the brake pedal is very firm and the car tracks straight. She may have just gotten new tires, too. I don't recall exactly, but for staggered 18" wheels, I think that ran her somewhere around ~$800. This was around the time they had ground up MoPac north of the river so it was all chewed up and your tires would track in the ruts they had. At some point, within a month of the alignment, I started noticing that the car felt very twitchy, when going over bumps-- it would want to suddenly pull to one side or the other. I wasn't driving her car too often, and she is stubborn, but I told her we probably need to get it checked out and she kind of dismissed it. I took the initiative to call SoulSpeed and ask them to look at the car and make sure their alignment was still in spec because the way the car was behaving worried me and I thought she might get into an accident if she's not careful. They eventually give me a date to come in, probably two weeks after initiating a conversation with them and telling them the car felt unsafe. The redo the alignment, call me to come pick up the car and then tell me that they had failed to torque one of adjustment bolts correctly in the rear suspension so there was something physically loose in the rear end that was causing the rear wheel to maybe gain a lot of toe in/out or maybe go from negative to positive camber ( I don't recall) as the suspension moved within the normal range, making the car very unstable. They did not bill us to redo the alignment and fix their mistake, but by this time the hosed up alignment had caused her to chew through the rear tire or get some extremely uneven wear and she had to replace at least a pair of tires, again. I should've tried to get them to compensate us for that expense, but I didn't really know how to approach it and my girlfriend is not very proactive or aggressive with auto maintenance. I just found this sort of lapse in service appalling given that their garage was full of Ferraris, Cayman GT4s, and other very expensive cars-- Surely they would be careful not to make this sort of mistake on an exotic with an owner that probably knows a good lawyer... Anecdote 2 My friend tends to go the route of buying tires from TireRack and having Soul Speed mount them. He followed their instructions of having the tires shipped to their shop. The tracking number indicates the tires were delivered, but the shop happened to be closed for some holiday. He called them several times to arrange to have the tires mounted and they were slow to answer. He told them they had his tires, and SoulSpeed at least for a while denied ever receiving them. He eventually got them to mount the tires, but it required entirely too much effort on his part. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 07:53 on May 29, 2019 |
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May 29, 2019 07:49
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Ok, thanks for sharing. I'll try to nail everything down beforehand, then, as far as time goes. Sounds like they may be a bit discombobulated on scheduling stuff. The workmanship mistake is troubling, though, I'm hoping you just got unlucky there. The good news is the sway bars and springs are pretty simple and just a "follow these specs from the instructions" kind of job, but if they hosed up an alignment they could gently caress that stuff up too, so I dunno. Maybe I'll just have them do the steering column and take the other stuff to my regular mechanic. Also, if you are paying 800 dollars for tires, unless your girlfriend really cares about high performance rubber, she's overpaying. I have, pretty much, the nicest non-slick tire on my car you can get (michelin pilot sports), and four of them run me 600 dollars. It's 17" wheels vs 18" wheels for your GF, but that still seems way expensive. A 245/40 michelin is like, 160-170 a tire, so that's ~650 at the most seeing as your other two tires are less expensive. A set of middle of the road tires should be like, 400 dollars tops. Not trying to be a dick or anything, just throwing that out there. If you already know this and I'm just being an rear end in a top hat, my bad 
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May 29, 2019 08:48
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No idea on the tire cost front. I think she got some Michelin all seasons or summers, and then other fees and road hazard warranty from discount tire adds up. It's been a few years since then. Now she has a 2016 TTS with 20" wheels. Tires for that seem very $$$.
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 16:03 on May 29, 2019 |
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May 29, 2019 15:56
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I'm going to be getting rid of my driveway ornament E46 soon and I'm kind of itching to buy another vehicle. My current DD is a Fiesta ST that I plan to drive until it dies, so I'm thinking as a second vehicle I should look for something that has as little overlap with what the Fiesta does well as possible. Something that can tow a decent RV trailer and cruise comfortably on the highway. I've always loved the Ford Excursion so I'm leaning pretty heavily that way. I'm only looking at the 7.3L Power Stroke models (2000 to early 2003) because the 6.0s are a mess and the V10 is hot garbage. Any reasons to avoid these aside from the obvious huge SUV issues like parking and fuel economy? I live in semi-rural Ohio so parking is a non-issue and the Fiesta will remain my daily so fuel consumption isn't a huge concern. I kind of like the idea of having both the largest and smallest passenger vehicles Ford has sold here in the OBD-2 era. Other options would be 3/4 ton Suburbans and the long bed four door counterparts of both. I've also eyeballed a few full size vans but I never liked working on my family's old Econoline because of the whole doghouse thing. Are any of the older wagons or big sedans from the body-on-frame era worth considering? Doing an Impala conversion on a '90s Roadmaster Wagon has always been in the back of my head, but while I know they're rated to tow a surprising amount I'm not sure how comfortable it'd actually be with a few thousand pounds of RV or other car behind it. I have a history with Crown Vics but at least the newer ones are really limited in towing.
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May 29, 2019 18:10
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Excursions are going to be priced quite high. Wish I had one. With the 7.3 have an extra CKP in the glove box.
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May 29, 2019 18:33
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Excursions are going to be priced quite high. Around me they have a pretty hilarious price range, ragged out gas models are sometimes not selling for $3k while at the same time you'll have some bro'd out diesel Limited model on 37" tires that have never seen dirt listed for $30k. The ones I've been looking at are mostly in the $5-10k range which seems fair. I don't care very much about how the body looks and would be planning to replace a lot of the interior anyways, so I've been focusing on the ones that seem to have been used as large family haulers. Stock suspension, no tune, no plow, etc. edit: Do you mean the cam sensor? From what I've found CKP = crank sensor and the 7.3 does not have one. wolrah fucked around with this message at 18:56 on May 29, 2019 |
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May 29, 2019 18:49
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wolrah posted:Around me they have a pretty hilarious price range, ragged out gas models are sometimes not selling for $3k while at the same time you'll have some bro'd out diesel Limited model on 37" tires that have never seen dirt listed for $30k. Ah hell you are right and I stand corrected in regards to the cam sensor.
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May 30, 2019 01:16
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What would yalls opinion be on labor costs for spring replacement (not coilovers or anything fancy) and new sway bars on a 2017 ND MX-5. IMO the springs and rear sway bar are really easy, bit the front sway bar is an rear end in a top hat to get at, so idk. Here are some instructions: Springs: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AhGeP4Attg2DfoR9twWM14BX9KrUTktP/view?usp=drivesdk Sway Bars: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-7c7ZMkDpJp-H6f77bfn5TcFZrxamWIy/view?usp=drivesdk Considering doing the springs myself as a complete novice if I cant get a good price
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May 30, 2019 16:50
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For those who are interested to know, rebuilding that 4l60-e went fairly well. 11 hours from beginning to end, removing the transmission/disassembling/reassembling/reinstalling. Highlights were getting woozy from hot ATF fumes for hours on end, an extremely spicey torque converter, screaming at the 2-4 band that refused to come off, screaming at the new 2-4 band that refused to get on, marvelling at the friction disks which were machined perfectly smooth, accidentally adding washers to the flywheel/torque converter bolts, and creating an exhaust leak. Also managed to overfill the transmission a bit so when the breather tube barfed some up I thought that something had gone horribly wrong. There is a little finnickyness with the torque converter clutch lockup but I'm not sure where that could be coming from. Although, apparently, the 4l60e will build up a table of shifts and line pressures over its lifetime and you should reset that after a rebuild, but I am not sure how important that is or even where that can be done. You are supposed to use a dealer scan tool to do it, I guess.
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May 31, 2019 12:10
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Great job. Not everyone does a transmission rebuild. The part I hated were the teflon seals. (not a 4l60)
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May 31, 2019 12:46
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Lately the a/c on my '99 TT is acting up. Sometimes it works fine and blows ice cold air, other times it blows warm, seemingly at random. Sometimes it will start and stop working several times over the course of a 40 minute drive. Any ideas what could cause something like that?
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May 31, 2019 14:10
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Elusif posted:For those who are interested to know, rebuilding that 4l60-e went fairly well. 11 hours from beginning to end, removing the transmission/disassembling/reassembling/reinstalling. Highlights were getting woozy from hot ATF fumes for hours on end, an extremely spicey torque converter, screaming at the 2-4 band that refused to come off, screaming at the new 2-4 band that refused to get on, marvelling at the friction disks which were machined perfectly smooth, accidentally adding washers to the flywheel/torque converter bolts, and creating an exhaust leak. Also managed to overfill the transmission a bit so when the breather tube barfed some up I thought that something had gone horribly wrong. Yeah, good job. I did the same with my 3 speed VW trans and I ended up having to do it twice due to marginal pressures in the old one (I may have added 25% more HP/Torque to the engine at the same time), glad it went well for you. Grakkus posted:Lately the a/c on my '99 TT is acting up. Sometimes it works fine and blows ice cold air, other times it blows warm, seemingly at random. Sometimes it will start and stop working several times over the course of a 40 minute drive. Any ideas what could cause something like that? I'm not sure about Audis but if it has a vacuum actuated vent system that sounds exactly like a bad vacuum line. My 97 Volvo suffers from this. Otherwise maybe check the high pressure switch and or that the clutch is working consistently? Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 14:22 on May 31, 2019 |
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May 31, 2019 14:17
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Hi, y'all! I have a 2004 Ram 1500 with a 4.7l V8 at a little over 150,000 miles. I have two added electrical accessories: a brake controller and a powered sub. Two month old AGM battery, rated for stock specifications. I have had an intermittent squeaking from front of the engine during and after start-up , which sounds like it's coming from the alternator. Yesterday morning it wouldn't crank, just got a click from the starter; lights, stereo and keyless entry worked fine. This has continued after leaving the charger on trickle over-night. If I use a plug-in charger rated at 75amps for engine start, it starts fine. Any subsequent hot-start is very slow and the engine won't turn over on cold-start without the charger. Battery sits at between 13.9-14.3v running and 13.4-13.8 at rest. The alternator check function on the charger said "alternator good", but I don't know that I trust it. Checked all grounds, they looked good. Disconnected all accessories and cleaned positive battery connection, no change. The truck has only one pending code: low system voltage. I think it's the starter? Is there anything I can check?
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May 31, 2019 16:23
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Battery is my guess. Never underestimate how they can fail. Edit: Should add, with a failing battery, the alternator has to work harder. So that could also be a culprit in regards to sound. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 16:35 on May 31, 2019 |
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May 31, 2019 16:32
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madeintaipei posted:Hi, y'all! I have a 2004 Ram 1500 with a 4.7l V8 at a little over 150,000 miles. I have two added electrical accessories: a brake controller and a powered sub. Two month old AGM battery, rated for stock specifications. Sounds to me like your alternator belt is slipping (squeaking) and as a result your alternator isn't charging the battery like it should meaning you eventually kill your battery as you squeakily drive around. This would explain your error code and symptoms, though not starting after overnight trickle charging is odd. Maybe your new battery is messed up because of it? When is the last time your belts have been done?
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May 31, 2019 16:38
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KakerMix posted:Sounds to me like your alternator belt is slipping (squeaking) and as a result your alternator isn't charging the battery like it should meaning you eventually kill your battery as you squeakily drive around. This would explain your error code and symptoms, though not starting after overnight trickle charging is odd. Maybe your new battery is messed up because of it? New single serpentine belt, properly tensioned. Remembered the old battery was sitting in the shed, swapped it in and it cranks like normal. You maybe right about the battery getting hosed up by the charging system. I hadn't had a problem these last few weeks towing in Florida heat, only after sitting unused for a day. I'll take it into a mechanic Monday for a more thorough loving-with. Good looking out, folks! I'll report back if I find out what exactly happened there. e: For reference: the old battery is an Energizer, the new battery a Delphi MaxStart. madeintaipei fucked around with this message at 17:41 on May 31, 2019 |
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May 31, 2019 17:38
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Elusif posted:For those who are interested to know, rebuilding that 4l60-e went fairly well. 11 hours from beginning to end, removing the transmission/disassembling/reassembling/reinstalling. Highlights were getting woozy from hot ATF fumes for hours on end, an extremely spicey torque converter, screaming at the 2-4 band that refused to come off, screaming at the new 2-4 band that refused to get on, marvelling at the friction disks which were machined perfectly smooth, accidentally adding washers to the flywheel/torque converter bolts, and creating an exhaust leak. Also managed to overfill the transmission a bit so when the breather tube barfed some up I thought that something had gone horribly wrong. YOU LET THE BLACK MAGIC OUT  But seriously, that takes some balls to attempt yourself.So I found this in a quick Google search on relearning shift programming for a 4L60-E: quote:The first step is to complete whatever repairs or maintenance brought the vehicle into the shop in the first place. You may want to hold off on a post-service test drive until the shift adapt process is completed. You probably won't be able to get the transmission temp with a generic scan tool, but I would think letting the engine idle long enough to reach normal temp, then letting it idle at least 15 more minutes, would probably get it up to temp? (this is a completely uneducated guess, and I'm assuming you're using the stock transmission cooler that's part of the radiator). Disconnecting the battery for a minute should clear all codes from both the PCM and TCM on an older GM (and with it being a 60, I'm assuming it's at least 15 years old). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Jun 1, 2019 |
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Jun 1, 2019 07:13
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So I'm bleeding the clutch after installing a CDV kit and apart from the clip I need to press that is murdering my fingers, the clutch bleeding is going well. All of a sudden clutch loses all pressure and just springs to the floor like there is no pressure. The resovoir did go below MIN but was never even close to empty. Brakes and clutch share same fluid and for all intents and purposes the car is a modern Dodge Dart (exact same drivetrain). The brakes feel better than before though.... How hosed am I? Nvm:I'm just a scaredy cat when it comes to potentially disabling my only ride home. It dawned on me that me and the GF was out of sync for one bleed push, so it got filled with air apparently. Time for a test drive! Edit 2: Good improvement, but not night and day. Just nice not feeling like I'm a student driver anymore. Smoother all round. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Jun 1, 2019 |
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Jun 1, 2019 12:30
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e: wrong thread
Spermando fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Jun 1, 2019 |
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Jun 1, 2019 18:38
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06 PT Cruiser, driver window wont roll up. Other windows work fine. I check the fuse box but apparently there are no power window fuses? Is this normal?
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Jun 1, 2019 21:56
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vulturesrow posted:06 PT Cruiser, driver window wont roll up. Other windows work fine. I check the fuse box but apparently there are no power window fuses? Is this normal? Found this diagram for an '07:  PWR WDO is a circuit breaker on the left side. If it's only one window, it's more likely a loose wire. That seems to be a fairly common problem.
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Jun 2, 2019 01:51
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Deteriorata posted:Found this diagram for an '07: Thanks. The chart in the manual didn't have anything obviously labeled as that. I know it's unlikely to be a fuse but always check the easy stuff first  e: Think I've narrowed down the problem (I stripped those wires, the broken connector was not me). 
vulturesrow fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 02:30
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Question about strut replacements (front + rear) on my 2007 Corolla LE. So I'm going to DIY it. I originally intended on doing quickstruts but decided to go OEM and rent a strut compressor (probably a terrible idea but I swear by OEM). Are there any other suspension-related parts that I might as well do while I'm replacing the struts? I'm thinking lower ball joint, inner + outer tie rods, etc. melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 14:58
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Don't forget to have an alignment done when you're finished.
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Jun 2, 2019 15:08
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spankmeister posted:Don't forget to have an alignment done when you're finished. Definitely! Also forgot to ask- is there a point in replacing the actual suspension spring in addition to the strut cartridge? It looks more or less okay. But yeah... 12 year old vehicle in the rustbelt. melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 15:10
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Depends how rusty it is, I've reused the springs on 2 vehicles without any problems.
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Jun 2, 2019 15:34
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melon cat posted:Definitely! Also forgot to ask- is there a point in replacing the actual suspension spring in addition to the strut cartridge? It looks more or less okay. But yeah... 12 year old vehicle in the rustbelt. Rock auto has the moog springs front for about 75 and rears for 77 CDN (plus shipping). Thats not a bad price, if you're going to have it all apart you might as well. Note: I did springs and struts on my car a couple years ago, and bought the spring compressosrs because my local part source and can tire no longer did the loan a tool for them because they said nobody ever brought them back. Also, the moog springs have more coils than the factory ones. At least on my '09 corolla, made it a bit more complicated to get everything together. Also be careful as gently caress when doing springs they're like loaded weapons. I did mine over night from like 7pm till 4am or so on a friday. Near the end I was pretty tired, and put my impact on the strut shaft nut on one of the old ones to take it apart. I didn't raelize that the spring compressors were not on there. I could have hosed myself up pretty good. E: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2007,corolla,1.8l+l4,1434445,suspension,strut+/+coil+spring+/+mount+assembly,15174 They've got KYB quick struts on here. KYB pretty much IS OEM. Save yourself the trouble and buy them. Second E: Swaybar end link bolts are probably rusted to poo poo. You'll likely have to cut them off. So expect a pair of them to be replaced. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 18:07
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wesleywillis posted:[snip] Yeah I've heard that about spring compressors. Dangerous poo poo. And if the swaybar end links are probably rusty then I'm willing to be that my stabilizer links probably are, too. I'm just really leery of aftermarket parts because I've had issues with fit whenever I went aftermarket (gently caress aftermarket radiator hoses). But if KYB Quickstruts are really close to OEM I might consider it.
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Jun 2, 2019 18:51
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I had a flat tire and took it in to be repaired but they didn't find anything wrong with it and it's been holding pressure perfectly ever since. Problem is they didn't rebalance the tire after taking it off, so now I have a pretty bad vibration from that position when going 120km/h and above. Comes like every other second. Even worse though - if I did my rough calculations right it seems like the tire shop torqued my wheelbolts so it took at least 440Nm to free them. That's without the bouncing/pushing to free the bolt. I always undo the wheel bolts and redo the torqueing after visiting tire shops. The wheels should be at 120Nm. I put some better looking spare bolts on (that for some reason came with the car). The rim was super greasy as well and I swear they always come back more scuffed. Anyway, new bolts threaded in ok, and they seem good. All good right?  melon cat posted:Yeah I've heard that about spring compressors. Dangerous poo poo. And if the swaybar end links are probably rusty then I'm willing to be that my stabilizer links probably are, too. I'm just really leery of aftermarket parts because I've had issues with fit whenever I went aftermarket (gently caress aftermarket radiator hoses). But if KYB Quickstruts are really close to OEM I might consider it. I hate using spring compressors, but mine are pretty beefy looking and don't even budge when using them. Still feels damned uncomfortable. I mitigate some of the fear/danger by only tightening the absolute minimum required to the top mount off (or whatever). Watching YouTube videos of people impacting them to max compression is anxiety-triggering as hell. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 18:57
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melon cat posted:Yeah I've heard that about spring compressors. Dangerous poo poo. And if the swaybar end links are probably rusty then I'm willing to be that my stabilizer links probably are, too. I'm just really leery of aftermarket parts because I've had issues with fit whenever I went aftermarket (gently caress aftermarket radiator hoses). But if KYB Quickstruts are really close to OEM I might consider it. KYB is one of several OEM suppliers to Toyota, Honda etc. Even if they weren't specifically OE on your Corolla, KYB is still a good brand.
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Jun 2, 2019 19:14
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vulturesrow posted:
So can anyone tell me if I can buy the wire separately or am I going to have to replace the whole motor? Haven't much success locating just the wire online.
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Jun 2, 2019 19:58
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vulturesrow posted:So can anyone tell me if I can buy the wire separately or am I going to have to replace the whole motor? Haven't much success locating just the wire online. Wire is wire. Go get some of the appropriate gauge at Home Depot.
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Jun 2, 2019 20:51
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Deteriorata posted:Wire is wire. Go get some of the appropriate gauge at Home Depot. Yeah but the whole connecter broken off is a problem...
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Jun 2, 2019 21:14
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So you're not looking for a wire then, you're looking for a connector?
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Jun 2, 2019 21:27
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I'm hoping the whole thing (wire with connector) is a replaceable part). I forgot to look and see if it is wired directly into the motor or not and I'm not at home right now to check.
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Jun 2, 2019 21:31
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And keep in mind that if you can’t find the right connector, just get both ends of any connector with the correct number of pins and wire gauge, and change both ends.
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Jun 2, 2019 21:32
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How do you manually crank an engine without pulling the whole thing? I can see turning the crankshaft by hand when it's disengaged and on a bench but that's not really going to work when it's hooked up, right? I read someone saying pull the spark plugs (need to anyway) to remove compressionand move the accessory belt by hand, would that actually work? I need to stop being depressed and demotivated and waiting on people to help with the Escort and just do the leakdown test already. Well, assuming places do loaner leakdown testers, since I have no loving money to buy one until next Friday.
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Jun 2, 2019 21:37
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You can generally get a socket or wrench and a breaker bar on the crank snout, and turn it that way once you pull the plugs.
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Jun 2, 2019 21:39
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If it's the zx2 you can take off the splash guard in the passenger side wheel well, and then the crank is just right there. It's the thing with a big belt pulley attached. Edit: remembered I have a pic of that from a few weeks ago 
brand engager fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 22:11
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Oh, nice. I was worried that I would have a hard time getting to it because I saw a video of the Focus with Zetec having a shroud over the timing belt and crank that would make it impossible to get to that way and I can't remember whether that's there on the Escort. It's the ZX2, so that's perfect.
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Jun 2, 2019 23:07
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