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JuffoWup posted:It may not impress the kids as much, but I've had co-workers be fascinated with that nested puzzle box that was linked here some time back. That's a good one, I may print a couple of those. I think I'm going to do a lithophane as well, just need to figure out what picture to use. Maybe some animals or something. I think my friend said the school mascot is a giraffe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmbdcmvZbP8
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Jun 3, 2019 04:08
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JuffoWup posted:If you've got everything else confirmed to not be you, perhaps this will help: Many thanks for this. Not only does it work awesomely, but I'd like to posit that it's the coolest functional 3D print, with a working printed clockwork spring AND an adjustable slipper clutch. It was a blast to make.
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Jun 3, 2019 11:29
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TKIY posted:Anyone had any luck with the phone based 3D scanners? I have a Note 8 (dual lens) so it should work but I'm not sure if there is a supported design out there right now. This one looks like what I want but it's iPhone only: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-the-30-3d-scanner-23076 May not exactly be the question you asked, bit I have been doing some photogrammetry lately with decent results. I tried the Scann3D app but found it to be garbage. Ended up just taking 60-100 photos of the object on my phone (not even a fancy one, Nokia 6.1) and processing it into a mesh with Meshroom (free / open source, needs an nVidia GPU). Then usually trim all the excess and clean it up in Meshlab. I used this to make a digital 'last' of my foot for a project in working on, which when I print out a negative, fits almost perfectly. Not sure what you plan to do with the mesh files but getting them into a solid model to be edited with typical solid modeling programs without shelling out lots of $$ is very annoying.
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Jun 3, 2019 12:30
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I'm going for a stained glass look on a gate panel in the backyard. These were done in PETG, the darker 3 are eSun, the lighter one is Matterhackers. I've got some red and green translucent filament coming from Atomic for a more traditional stained glass. For now these are just different depths / contours.   I'm thinking just using Gorilla Glue / super glue to lock in the panels? If anyone has any tips for fitting other than just shrinking things by a few percent I'm all ears. The orca panel was my test and it went together kind of clunky like.
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Jun 3, 2019 13:00
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Definitely not Gorilla Glue. It foams up. Superglue works well on ABS, although it can leave a white film behind. I'd think about a UV-stabilized epoxy too.
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Jun 3, 2019 16:15
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I知 designing something that will need to hold a pretty significant amount of weight with some significant size/shape limitations to fit that space. It痴 cantilever in design as well. I知 thinking of putting a couple thin CF rods like they use in RC helicopters down the length for additional strength and use Taulman 910 for resilience otherwise, how痴 the best way to do that? By the current design it seems like it will be printed so the rod will go parallel to the print bed, but I would rather not have to babysit the printer and stop it before quickly setting the rod on there and starting the print again. That would be time-sensitive and also introduce a possible heatsink that would cause uneven cooling and warping, I think. The filament is 1.75mm IIRC, as is the CF rod. Depending on layer height I could print a hole and either have a hole height of 1.5, 1.6, 1.75 or 1.8 and a width of roughly 1.75mm I think. Would it be best to hold it in with some kind of adhesive? Heat up the rod, undersize the hole slightly, and slowly push it in using the heated elasticity of the 910 and the fact that holds in objects enlarge when heated? Not sure that last one would even work tbh, and would probably require a blowtorch and welding gloves and being very careful and slow. I知 also not sure how the nature of infill would impact the strength of the whole thing or the effectiveness of adhesive, although I could also just put a wall around the holes. I know that CF is very brittle, but I知 hoping that being embedded in the very impact resistant nylon will protect it from any hard shocks and even if it does break in one point the pieces will be kept together so hopefully strength loss would be minimal except at that exact point.
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Jun 3, 2019 16:47
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I知 designing something that will need to hold a pretty significant amount of weight with some significant size/shape limitations to fit that space. It痴 cantilever in design as well. I知 thinking of putting a couple thin CF rods like they use in RC helicopters down the length for additional strength and use Taulman 910 for resilience otherwise, how痴 the best way to do that? By the current design it seems like it will be printed so the rod will go parallel to the print bed, but I would rather not have to babysit the printer and stop it before quickly setting the rod on there and starting the print again. That would be time-sensitive and also introduce a possible heatsink that would cause uneven cooling and warping, I think. I can't quite envision your project based on the description but if it were me I'd probably design the object with some thin holes/cylinders where you want the rods that would be slightly larger than the CF rods and use some good epoxy to embed them. If you design it with holes they will be considered walls by default and infill won't matter beyond a point. I'd also plan to have my first ones fail and have to do some redesigns. One of the nice things about 3D printing is that you can iterate on designs quickly. You can get a printer to pause at a particular layer height so you can drop things inside of a print but the specifics will depend on your slicer and printer. I haven't done it but I know that embedding nuts into prints to make them captive is pretty common. edit: Nylon like Taulman is tough but is ductile. If it needs to be very rigid you could try a blend with carbon fiber or glass but they may also make the piece more brittle (since the CF in filament is just chopped up, it's not structurally woven). Rexxed fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Jun 3, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 16:57
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Yeah, I知 wobbling between using a carbon fiber nylon mix and the 910 with rods inserted after the fact. 910 would probably be a lot cheaper tbh, CarbonX is stupid expensive and it doesn稚 seem like the most expensive CF reinforced nylon. And it only comes in black, which is a downside if I want it in a lighter color. I can at least acid dye the Taulman. Would I not have to worry about the rod causing the nylon to cool significantly faster in that area than elsewhere? Carbon Fiber has a very high thermal conductivity, higher than brass in some cases.
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Jun 3, 2019 17:34
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it would be great if you could post a picture of the model you're trying to make, because it sounds like you're bouncing back and forth between a lot of different parameters and not all of them may be as critical as you think. Based on my best understanding of the product, I would just make it out of CF nylon. Something like nylonX is very rigid and very tough -- not as rigid for a given cross-section as a proper woven carbon part, but dozens of times more impact-resistant. I believe nylonx is $70 a kilo right now, which really isn't that bad.
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Jun 3, 2019 17:39
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I値l post it when I get home, phoneposting right now.
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Jun 3, 2019 17:43
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As an aside, the cruise control cable rotor thing I made for my friend's '95 Accord has been holding up in the engine bay well for over 6 months so far. It's printed in eSun cf nylon (44 for half a kg when I bought it). I really do expect it to outlast the car but I'm glad it's over the initial wear in.
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Jun 3, 2019 17:47
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I知 designing something that will need to hold a pretty significant amount of weight with some significant size/shape limitations to fit that space. It痴 cantilever in design as well. I知 thinking of putting a couple thin CF rods like they use in RC helicopters down the length for additional strength and use Taulman 910 for resilience otherwise, how痴 the best way to do that? By the current design it seems like it will be printed so the rod will go parallel to the print bed, but I would rather not have to babysit the printer and stop it before quickly setting the rod on there and starting the print again. That would be time-sensitive and also introduce a possible heatsink that would cause uneven cooling and warping, I think. In RC planes (flat flying wings, specifically) we use carbon arrow shafts. You can use a lot smaller rods if you run two parallel to each other, which creates an I-Beam effect and is phenomenal at preventing flex. You would design the through holes into the print so you have a wall between the rod and infill, coat a CF rod in epoxy, and slide it in. Infill shouldn't matter, just be sure to make the walls on the part a little thicker overall so the rod isn't putting direct pressure on any part of the infill when flexing. AgentCow007 fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jun 3, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 18:32
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I've been going through the same process with a pair of landing gear brackets for my UAV heli. Alloy910 was too soft, but even a carbon-nylon filament would bend over time. I finally tried a PETG-CF filament and while it is better, it will still bend over time. I've played with the idea of adding a small carbon tube, but I think I'm just going to pony up and get them CNC'd from aluminum.
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Jun 3, 2019 19:02
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I picked up an Anycubic Chiron a while back when it was on an Amazon Lightning deal. I haven't had a lot of time to dedicate attention to it, but lately I've started to feel comfortable with getting ok prints from it, and short of a few loving weird quirks (I can't control fan speed during the print? no way to 0 the first layer and 100 subsequent layers) , and useless auto-levelling.... I'm beginning to not hate it. I can turn the speed pretty far up and take advantage of the massive build plate to build racecar part prototypes for my buddy. feels pretty good. Also , I successfully got a couple mosfets installed for my Anet A8 , so that, on top of Marlin firmware, I have significantly reduced my chances of burning my house down with it. Nerdrock fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 01:52
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https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=35435 Holy poo poo, Monoprice is having a sale on one of their SLA printers. $50 off at the moment. No other printers seem to be on sale, just this one. I honestly don't think I'd use it very often, but holy poo poo am I tempted to get it. A decent SLA that's only 200 bucks and backed up by a years warranty? That's a hell of a deal.
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Jun 4, 2019 06:56
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Great. I have hardly started using the Ender my wife got me for Christmas and now I want this.
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Jun 4, 2019 15:38
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SLA machines are a much bigger pain in the rear end than FDM and the parts aren't as strong. Unless you truly need the surface finish improvement and you're okay with the drawbacks, I'd stick with FDM.
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Jun 4, 2019 15:49
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yeah its just a lil warhammer figurine printer, but drat that price is like impulse buy territory for what you're getting could also do bodies/limbs in FDM and hands/faces in SLA for bigger models
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Jun 4, 2019 16:40
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This is really tempting me. I wish I had anywhere ventilated enough to run a resin printer.
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Jun 4, 2019 18:09
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My photon was finicky as poo poo but now that's is consistently working it's amazing for minis and scatter terrain. I am still using my FDM for most things though, they have two entirely different purposes to my mind.
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Jun 4, 2019 18:19
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Yea, I'm honestly leaning towards it cause I have some sixth scale stuff I want to make/print and I'd be spending that much just on a few high res prints from shapeways to check sizes and whatnot.
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Jun 4, 2019 19:18
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The extruder cooling fan failed on my wanhaoi3 and the extruder plate/arm both melted to the point where I couldn稚 get any feed pressure. Without a second printer to print spares, I ordered the Microswiss CNC arm and plate. Same hotend and nozzle I had before, but suddenly I知 getting massive overextrusion, and poor layer adhesion. I知 guessing maybe the new arm is gripping better and hoping a feed calibration will fix the overextrusion? but I知 kind of stumped about the layer adhesion. I知 already running everything +10C to account for the Microswiss all-metal hotend. I thought maybe all the additional metal in the extruder assembly is leeching heat away from the hotend? I知 not sure that makes sense? Feels weird to think about pushing ABS+ to 265ish if I値l just be putting a band aid on some other underlying issue.
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Jun 4, 2019 20:45
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Welp  Ordered the printer and a jar of clear green resin. Resin will be here thursday, printer will be here next week. Amazon has it for the same price fulfilled by monoprice, but the amazon price is about $7 more and it's temp out of stock. Probably faster shipping when it's in stock though.
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Jun 4, 2019 21:26
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eddiewalker posted:The extruder cooling fan failed on my wanhaoi3 and the extruder plate/arm both melted to the point where I couldn稚 get any feed pressure. I'd definitely calibrate the extruder stepping first and see if that helps. The extra metal shouldn't matter since it's up above where you want things to be hot in the area where you want things to be cool. Over extrustion usually gives better layer adhesion but I'd try to figure out one thing at a time.
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Jun 4, 2019 22:42
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I bought another Prusa kit and put it together in about 4 hours and pressed go and it printed perfectly the first time. Never don't be always buying Prusas
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Jun 5, 2019 04:48
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Hey goons, my workplace makes use of a Makerbot z18, and after months of learning, headaches, and at least one burnt-out power supply, I'm hankerin' to get my own setup for both the dumb nerd poo poo I see online, and experimenting with 3d modelling tools/components at my job. Right now here's what I'm looking for: Budget: $2,000 -Build volume similar to the z18 (12x12x18 in.), but from cursory searches this might not be feasible with my budget - 9x9x10 in. would be my minimum. -Decent-to-high resolution, capable of rendering fine details such as 10 pt. text or the surface of a quarter -Robust printing options that allow experimenting with different build densities, supports, and filaments Print speed, maintenance needs and failure rates aren't too much of a priority for me. Ultimately I want to be able to create durable hand tools, training aids, and single-use containers for engraving metal with explosives. Beyond that, being able to 3D print a smartgun prop from Aliens and nerdy figures to paint up for gifting are secondary goals for myself. And feel free to school me on my misconceptions about printing; I'm honestly still new to this.
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Jun 5, 2019 11:28
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ChickenHeart posted:Hey goons, my workplace makes use of a Makerbot z18, and after months of learning, headaches, and at least one burnt-out power supply, I'm hankerin' to get my own setup for both the dumb nerd poo poo I see online, and experimenting with 3d modelling tools/components at my job. Right now here's what I'm looking for: The biggest feature of that z18 seems to be having an enclosed heated build chamber. From what I've seen, that is the one thing that takes you from the sub 1000 dollar printers into the multi thousand. Most of those benefits can be had just from building a simple enclosure though, and the heat from the build plate can warm it up a bit. Creality is still a popular choice, and have some options with larger build volumes up to half meter. Resolution more comes down to what nozzle you use. About everything will print down to 0.1mm layer heights. Printing options are more in the slicer, so anything that lets you give it a gcode file to print, you'll be able to play with. That's most printers.
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Jun 5, 2019 14:11
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Rexxed posted:I'd definitely calibrate the extruder stepping first and see if that helps. The extra metal shouldn't matter since it's up above where you want things to be hot in the area where you want things to be cool. Over extrustion usually gives better layer adhesion but I'd try to figure out one thing at a time. I've heard lots of people say they had to bump print temps up 10-15c when moving from stock to the micro swiss all metal. Any major changes I'd go and reprint temp towers and extrusion tests anyways. The adhesion problem, I'd clean your bed well since you were working over it, do a thorough re-level, e-steps calibration, and flow rate test. Golluk fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 14:20
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Golluk posted:I've heard lots of people say they had to bump print temps up 10-15c when moving from stock to the micro swiss all metal. Any major changes I'd go and reprint temp towers and extrusion tests anyways. I already went up 10C from the all-metal hotend years ago. I知 talking about what happened after changing to an all-metal extruder assembly. And I wasn稚 talking about first layer over-extrusion and bed adhesion. I知 talking about plastic drooping over part edges, and layers randomly curling up in the middle of parts. Layers I can pull off like I知 peeling an onion. I値l just need some tinker time to figure it out I guess. For all I know, my extruder arm has been slowly melting for years and I致e been compensating for a slow-motion feed pressure failure a little at a time.
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Jun 5, 2019 14:38
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Welp Take my advice on this: Flint Read method levelling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roAqm5c3rfU
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Jun 5, 2019 15:41
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It's got auto leveling. Hooray! The video is awesome though. God I wish it was that easy to level a FDM printer. Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 18:59
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https://us.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845898.html?wid=1433363 Can someone confirm this is a good deal from a good vendor? Yikes. Nevermind. Asmodai_00 fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 19:33
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I don't know what changed your mind with the yikes, but I got my Ender 3 from the Creality ebay store for $195.99 with a 10% off coupon bringing it down to $176.39. $175 range is the lowest I've seen them with any regularity and around $200 is the normal price.
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Jun 5, 2019 20:01
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Rexxed posted:I don't know what changed your mind with the yikes, but I got my Ender 3 from the Creality ebay store for $195.99 with a 10% off coupon bringing it down to $176.39. $175 range is the lowest I've seen them with any regularity and around $200 is the normal price. Yikes was at Gearbest, which has a lovely reputation. Thanks for the ebay heads up though!
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Jun 5, 2019 20:07
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Are there like, even more cheaply built creality clones going around or something?
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Jun 5, 2019 20:09
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ChickenHeart posted:Hey goons, my workplace makes use of a Makerbot z18, and after months of learning, headaches, and at least one burnt-out power supply, I'm hankerin' to get my own setup for both the dumb nerd poo poo I see online, and experimenting with 3d modelling tools/components at my job. Right now here's what I'm looking for: Buy a Monoprice 3d printer with that budget and get ready to get really mad at your employer for using Makerbot anything. Like, check this out. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30993 Or this if you must be fully enclosed. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30527 Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 21:03
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Asmodai_00 posted:Yikes was at Gearbest, which has a lovely reputation. Thanks for the ebay heads up though! Just FYI https://www.creality3d.shop has similar prices and they have a USA warehouse for fast shipping. I got mine there and all's well, got the latest PCB (not the silent version, but still has the thermal runaway protection etc) and all the fixes they've added (better bowden tube fittings and little plastic clips for them, etc) Speaking of PCBs, what do you guys like for the Ender 3? I am looking at a lot of things that need firmware adjustments, but Creality doesn't keep their github updated and their whole "different versions of the same board number" and not versioning their firmware is pissing me off. I got a bootloader on, but could only find hex for the latest firmware, so I still can't use mesh bed leveling which I so desperately need for this warped POS build surface. It seems like there are a lot of third-party options now. e: preordered the TH3D board, will post trip report AgentCow007 fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 21:20
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I知 starting to get really fed up with how much of pain in the rear end PETG is get printing well I知 just trying to print some brackets for a window screen, it shouldn稚 be this loving hard
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Jun 5, 2019 22:54
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Sockser posted:I知 starting to get really fed up with how much of pain in the rear end PETG is get printing well Yeah, I'm not having much fun with it either. Struggling on flat objects. It'll drop a blop somewhere and catch the hotend on the next pass.
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Jun 5, 2019 23:12
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I said it before: ABS isn稚 that scary and prints better for me than PETG ever did.
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Jun 5, 2019 23:41
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