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wesleywillis posted:Is there a "home cleaning" thread of some kind? Bleach in various mixtures is my general sanitizer around most places. Go to a dollar store or Big Lots and get LA's Totally Awesome Degreaser. It will deep clean the grease off of everything. This is great for around or above the stove and in the microwave. Or the grease of fingerprints off steel appliances. Pledge and Stainless Steel Cleaner will definitely take away the more minor smudges, dirty hands will still be piling dirt into crevices, so I recommend degreasing your stainless steel appliances first, before using either. I prefer the silver Stainless Steel Cleaner overall. Less oily Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 12:44
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Another super-cheap cleaner that people tend to forget about nowadays is good old ammonia (standard, dilute 5-10% cleaning solution.) It's a good general cleaner for glass, floors and anything greasy (stoves, etc.), because it is a fairly strong base. I've also found that, diluted more, it makes a drat good carpet cleaner as well. It's an irritant, but I actually consider that a good thing. If I'm smelling it to the point that it bothers me, I know I need to improve the ventilation of the room.
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Jun 7, 2019 14:07
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Soul Reaver posted:This is a good video but doesn't help me much as I'm trying to avoid having to drill any holes into my walls/ceilings in the first place. Agreed with The Dave that this is something you really just need to learn. Drills are really basic tools and pretty much everyone should have ready access to one. Plus, like H110Hawk said, the installation instructions for your swing are a known way to safely set the thing up so it doesn't hurt your kid. If you try something different, you're off in the unknown. Maybe it'll work, maybe it won't. Buy a drill, buy a set of drillbits, buy a cheap pine board, spend some time practicing putting holes in the pine, screwing into it, unscrewing, etc. Watch videos on YouTube if you want to see someone experienced use a drill; there's really not much to how to use them. Just get the bit as close to perpendicular to the surface as you can, turn the drill on, press it into the surface, and don't twist.
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Jun 7, 2019 15:40
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Soul Reaver posted:This is it: The damage and disruption you cause by putting two screws through drywall into your ceiling is going to be way less than any other goofy way you try to hang it. And from the picture you linked the eye screws look plenty heavy duty to support it. Also today I learned that the previous owner used cheap crappy drywall anchors to hang curtain rods when I noticed one starting to pull away from the wall. He COULD have mounted them one inch closer to the window and drilled right into wood but nooooo....
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Jun 7, 2019 17:00
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Droo posted:The damage and disruption you cause by putting two screws through drywall into your ceiling is going to be way less than any other goofy way you try to hang it. And from the picture you linked the eye screws look plenty heavy duty to support it. I have a towel bar with that exact same issue in my bathroom. Every morning I look at it and think "hmm, I should really do something about that today."
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Jun 7, 2019 17:07
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Droo posted:The damage and disruption you cause by putting two screws through drywall into your ceiling is going to be way less than any other goofy way you try to hang it. And from the picture you linked the eye screws look plenty heavy duty to support it. Do note though that you need to get it into the joists (the wood that the drywall is attached to), and not just to the drywall. Drywall can't support poo poo on its own, even if you use drywall anchors.
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Jun 7, 2019 17:08
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Soul Reaver posted:This is it: You're lucky, the swing I bought said "ok now go to the hardware store and pray" with some basic specs on what to buy. This is perhaps one of the best "first projects" and you can test it you on a piece of scrap wood. Your hardware store might even have off-cuts you can just grab I don't know how things work in New Zealand, or ask a friend. Buy a mid-range drill and a multi-pack of bits, in the USA this means something like $150 USD spent for a Dewalt 7v drill and bit set. Hold the bits up to the eyelet and find one that is roughly the same size or slightly smaller. Drill a hole around as deep as the eyelet. Crank that sucker in there. Set it on the ground, hook the swing onto it, and pull on the rope gently to around the rated weight of the child (holy crap, 40kg.) Notice how it's not moving at all? That load is spread across 2 of those eyelets. When installing it, as someone else said, you have to get it into wood. You'll know it because you might want some pliers to crank that sucker home. If it's just in drywall then you can just pull it out with your hands. To patch the hole in wood I think we used a dowel, wood glue, and maybe some sawdust. I forget how we finished it, but you can't see it ever existed in our door. To patch the hole in drywall you want drywall spackle. It will be really obvious in the hardware store what it is, get the stuff that turns pink->white as it dries. You'll need a putty knife, sandpaper, and literally any paint. Jam some into the hole, scrape it flush-ish but a little rise is fine. Scrape it around and practice. If you don't like how it looks, scrape it off and toss it, you have more spackle than you can ever use before it dries. Kinda feather it out (scrape it thin onto the wall around the hole) to blend. When it dries put on a dust mask and sand it to blend out that rise. Wipe up your dust with a wet rag/paper towel. Slap some paint on there. Want to verify the weight works? Load it up with books or a car battery or something past the weight of your child. Assuming you got this halfway right it will give some creeky warnings before it falls. If you got it all the way right you will have just exposed critical structural problems which would have been exposed with your clamp method regardless.
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Jun 7, 2019 17:45
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Wasabi the J posted:Bleach in various mixtures is my general sanitizer around most places. B-Nasty posted:Another super-cheap cleaner that people tend to forget about nowadays is good old ammonia (standard, dilute 5-10% cleaning solution.) Bleach mixed with Ammonia, check. I will let you know how it goes!
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Jun 7, 2019 19:37
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JEEVES420 posted:Bleach mixed with Ammonia, check. I will let you know how it goes! It's double the strength!
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Jun 7, 2019 19:44
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JEEVES420 posted:Bleach mixed with Ammonia, check. I will let you know how it goes! That's exactly what I thought when I reread The thread earlier. Do not mix bleach with anything but water at home, unless you understand the chemistry and have the proper controls and safety equipment.
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Jun 7, 2019 19:45
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Does an ozone-creating-thingamabob damage refrigerator seals? Or, rather, does ozone?
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Jun 7, 2019 22:03
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Jerry Cotton posted:Does an ozone-creating-thingamabob damage refrigerator seals? Or, rather, does ozone? Ozone causes cracking in rubber, so yes. But at normal quantities for a residential ozone generator under occasional use this shouldn't be an issue for a very, very long time.
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Jun 7, 2019 22:08
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Wasabi the J posted:This may be of interest to the folks out there asking what the best way to hang things. I mean it's probably proportionate, but still. Plaster is not fun
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Jun 7, 2019 22:31
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i like nice words
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Motronic posted:a residential ozone generator  yeah nah this is the Real Deal. I don't know if any ozone generators available here are rated for use with people around.But I guess I'll just use it on the shelves and drawers. Need to build some sort of OZONE SARCOPHAGUS to put in the yard I guess.
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Jun 7, 2019 23:03
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Jerry Cotton posted:Need to build some sort of OZONE SARCOPHAGUS to put in the yard I guess. An O zone, if you will?
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Jun 7, 2019 23:07
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Wasabi the J posted:That's exactly what I thought when I reread The thread earlier. A friend of mine mixed drano and bleach in their dorm bathtub in university. Didn't go over too well... Also, thanks goons, for the advice. I'd start the thread myself, but I'm looking to learn poo poo, and have very little to offer for a good OP.
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Jun 7, 2019 23:10
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Soul Reaver posted:I thought of those pull-up bars that you can put in doorframes (eg, something like this https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products...AQ&gclsrc=aw.ds) since it can support the weight of a grown adult and is easily removable, but that's obviously not its intended purpose. I wouldn't rely on these. Their intended use is by people who can lift their own bodyweight, who by extension are in good enough physical condition that they aren't going to be significantly injured should the bar fail and fall ontop of them. Unless you found your baby in a crashed space pod in your corn field I wouldn't put anything above his/her head that isn't screwed in good and tight.
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Jun 7, 2019 23:17
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Jaded Burnout posted:An O zone, if you will?  (of my O zone)
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Jun 7, 2019 23:36
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Nevets posted:I wouldn't rely on these. Their intended use is by people who can lift their own bodyweight, who by extension are in good enough physical condition that they aren't going to be significantly injured should the bar fail and fall ontop of them. Not to mention that they only work well when a consistently downward load (i.e. not a bouncy baby) is placed on them. Just check out Youtube for We have one that has the claw like arm that grabs above the top casing of the doorway. It seems plenty stable.
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Jun 8, 2019 00:27
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wesleywillis posted:Also, thanks goons, for the advice. I'd start the thread myself, but I'm looking to learn poo poo, and have very little to offer for a good OP. Sometimes a pearly thread can form around an OP of grit in these oyster forums, though, not always. B-Nasty posted:We have one that has the claw like arm that grabs above the top casing of the doorway. It seems plenty stable. The more door- & trim-based carpentry I do the less I want to hang anything from it.
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Jun 8, 2019 01:07
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Jerry Cotton posted:
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Jun 8, 2019 02:33
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Jaded Burnout posted:The more door- & trim-based carpentry I do the less I want to hang anything from it. I concur, though at least the way this harness is deigned, it appears to use mostly a clamping/friction force against the drywall on the door header. There's definitely no way I'd trust just the casing; at least in the US, that's usually just attached with some 18ga pins.
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Jun 8, 2019 02:37
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Thanks for your advice everyone. I know how to drill holes/find nogs/mount things, I just hate doing it. Probably the biggest issue for me is all the crap that's needed to fix them afterward, particularly from the painting perspective, and how ugly I think it looks to have screw eyeys sticking out of a doorframe or ceiling somewhere. I do have a potential place I had mount the screw eyes though where they can stay kind of tucked away most of the time, so I'll probably go for that.
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Jun 8, 2019 02:49
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I should build a 4'x4' kid's playhouse to residential building code, correct?
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Jun 8, 2019 08:31
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If you have people with asthma in your house do not let them in your house for a while. There's no evidence it even does anything to fix smells other than masking them, but it does trigger respiratory distress even in mild exposures. I blew it off, as they use it in commercial air purification, but I tried a home bought kit for myself. Room sucked until I painted and my car was off gassing ozone from the cushions for days and both times gave my wife and I bad wheezes for a couple days.
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Jun 8, 2019 09:13
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Wasabi the J posted:There's no evidence it even does anything to fix smells other than masking them What more do you want?
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Jun 8, 2019 10:20
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Jerry Cotton posted:What more do you want? The way it is typically marketed is that it neutralizes the smell, ie that it was a molecular property if ozone that somehow managed to bind to the... chemistry responsible I don't remember too much molecular chemistry but I was only led to believe this by much of the very descriptions of the products themselves. My post was less about that, but now, having had to explain all of it, you can now understand why I simply focused more on the very real health hazards to ozone. Ozone makes people ill very easily, only to mask the smell with a hazardous gas smells like zapped electronics. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Jun 8, 2019 |
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Jun 8, 2019 10:52
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FogHelmut posted:I should build a 4'x4' kid's playhouse to residential building code, correct? Yeah, it's not hard to do and is a good way to have some confidence your building won't collapse. I guess you can ignore things like minimum room height, number of egresses, etc.
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Jun 8, 2019 14:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, it's not hard to do and is a good way to have some confidence your building won't collapse. I'm gonna need to see a smoke detector by the entryway and a heat detector over the easy-bake oven or your lego sets won't be covered by your renters' insurance.
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Jun 8, 2019 14:58
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FogHelmut posted:I should build a 4'x4' kid's playhouse to residential building code, correct? When I build my backyard shed, I ended up way over-building it just so I didn’t have to dispose of extra wood and cutoffs. Stud blocking everywhere! If you’re not familiar with the Home Depot “cull” pile, a playhouse is the perfect project to become so. Anything from the lumber yard with enough damage gets a line of purple paint and marked down 70%. My big trick was to watch the wood siding stack for signs of forklift damage and nicely ask an employee if those pieces were bad enough to get a purple mark. They were good enough for a shed, and $33 became $9 a sheet with one swipe of their spray can.
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Jun 8, 2019 15:42
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eddiewalker posted:When I build my backyard shed, I ended up way over-building it just so I didn’t have to dispose of extra wood and cutoffs. Stud blocking everywhere! The "wear" sheets of MDF they use to protect the "real" sheets go for £2 in my local place when they're done with a stack. Beat to hell but fine for workshop projects, if only I had a way to transport them.
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Jun 8, 2019 16:14
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If a painter leaves some big sheets of OSB (used to cover the windows when he took the panes away to be painted) in your garage for two years, is it OK to just consider them yours?
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Jun 8, 2019 16:49
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Jerry Cotton posted:If a painter leaves some big sheets of OSB (used to cover the windows when he took the panes away to be painted) in your garage for two years, is it OK to just consider them yours? This is a tricky one and depends on where you live, but the relevant term is "involuntary bailment", that is to say you are now the "bailee" (you have possession but not ownership) of the "chattel" (OSB sheets) and you became such involuntarily because the painter presumably didn't ask you to store them indefinitely. IANAL but in the UK at least I don't think there's some specific cut off where they suddenly become yours, but you can give reasonable notice of their sale or disposition. When a builder left a bunch of plastering tools in my house and failed to pick them up I gave him 4 weeks specific notice that if they weren't collected at my convenience by a specific date I'd dispose of them however I saw fit. He did collect them so I didn't have to deal with taking ownership in the end. In the UK you can't just dump them outside and tell him because you have a basic duty of care towards the items, but in other jurisdictions it may be different. Probably he's forgotten and when reminded will either come collect them reasonably promptly or let you have them.
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Jun 8, 2019 17:26
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FogHelmut posted:I should build a 4'x4' kid's playhouse to residential building code, correct? If it is has power or water, you should probably do those to code if you can. Jerry Cotton posted:If a painter leaves some big sheets of OSB (used to cover the windows when he took the panes away to be painted) in your garage for two years, is it OK to just consider them yours?
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Jun 8, 2019 17:44
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Looking for some input on un-fixing something. I’m about to demolish pretty much everything seen here:   The shelves, the mantle, the stone around the fireplace, the hearth, it’s all going away for a total makeover. The stone and mantle I can get off easily enough, but those fuckin’ shelves, I believe, have their back panels attached to the drywall probably with liquid nails or similar. I know I’m going to be doing drywall repair here either way, but honestly I’m not even sure how to start wrecking a 4x8 panel off the wall. I’m thinking maybe attack the case and frame of the thing until it’s just the panels left on the wall, but then...I don’t want to sink a recip saw in there where it’ll f up insulation, wiring, and the 2x6 exterior wall load bearing studs. Maybe run a circular saw across it a few times set at just enough depth to nick the drywall and then pry off the smaller panel pieces? Anyhow, just brainstorming how to go about this. For the most part, wrecked drywall anywhere below the current mantle height is fine and won’t need replacing after the makeover, but above that will need to be repaired so I want to minimize my destruction there. Thoughts?
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Jun 9, 2019 00:21
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Bad Munki posted:Thoughts? They look really nice as is 
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Jun 9, 2019 00:36
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Have to agree to disagree on that. They’re a poo poo build using poo poo materials and poo poo execution. They couldn’t even install the drat hardware lined up. The idea is okay in general, but it’s not great here, and doesn’t even work with the space very well. Like ‘em or not, though, the “should we remove them” ship has LONG since sailed. The new mantle (15’ of solid 5” thick 12-14” deep live edge walnut) is ready to go up, as well as the drawers that are going to be the new base for a full width limestone hearth with stonework bumped out about 6” and an absolute black granite surround. It’s gonna be a hell of a thing and a major centerpiece for the entire floor, I just need to clear this out. e: I mean, since we’re on the topic and I’m excited it’s finally happening, even if the goal isn’t germane to the question:  I think the last rendition had the outer corbels not coming quite so far down, and the lintel at the top of the fireplace recess may or may not happen, but you get the idea. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jun 9, 2019 |
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Jun 9, 2019 00:47
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Cut the drywall around it, undo any screw fasteners, hook a crowbar into the top and lever it up. Hopefully you can rip a square sheet off. Then undo the remaining fasteners. If it's on there with glue then it's just wrecking out whole sheets.
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Jun 9, 2019 00:56
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you are way overthinking it. Since cant see any screws (nails, putty, and paint prob) just knock the shelves out with tiny sledge and prybar the trim pieces. Fold the sides inward and then peal the bead board (its just hardboard) off by hand/pry bar to get fingers under it.  says its held on with finishing nails under the trim/sides. Love the "gently caress it I am done with this project" cuts for the trim. They don't cover the edges of the plywood or line up. edit: anther it is textured drywall behind the bead board.
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Jun 9, 2019 01:23
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JEEVES420 posted:you are way overthinking it. Since cant see any screws (nails, putty, and paint prob) just knock the shelves out with tiny sledge and prybar the trim pieces. Fold the sides inward and then peal the bead board (its just hardboard) off by hand/pry bar to get fingers under it.  ) The cabinet units at the bottom are just prefab off the shelf from who knows where, that may actually make the demo work easier since I just have to free them and pull out that whole block.That being said, I think it's extremely optimistic to think that the only thing holding these to the walls are light fasteners. Based on my ever-increasing experience in other places in this house, anything the previous owners did was likely done with liquid nails. I'd offer to take your bet but it'd be mean to just take someone's ten bucks with insider knowledge like I have here. quote:Love the "gently caress it I am done with this project" cuts for the trim. They don't cover the edges of the plywood or line up. quote:edit: anther
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Jun 9, 2019 01:47
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