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Sagebrush posted:And the only slicer you should be using is PrusaSlicer fyi I was using cura's slicer without complaints, but PrusaSlicer with some default settings I found online work 300% better.
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Jun 9, 2019 02:02
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What's the best lubricant for the various guide rods on my Prusa and the screw in my Photon?
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Jun 9, 2019 03:44
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The rods and linear bearings on a Prusa don't need any lubricant at all. Just try to keep the dust off. After hundreds of hours of printing you could try wiping them down with some 3-in-1 or similar light oil but really don't overdo it. Threaded rods and nuts benefit from silicone grease, or if you can't find that, a white lithium grease will do.
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Jun 9, 2019 06:05
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Wow, I wish someone had told me about wiping the bed with Windex for printing PETG ages ago I'm amazed at how well things are suddenly printing, and more importantly, popping off the build plate
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Jun 9, 2019 07:15
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Sagebrush posted:To me, that looks like either Thanks. Looking at the extruder there is "dust" on it, so it may be that. I've ordered a replacement and I'll go from there. The esun filiment I got seems to have gone from great to terrible, but I don't want to just bin the lot.  I want to get back to printing the interior to this.
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Jun 9, 2019 13:25
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So I have an Ender 3 with the magnetic bed, and am getting curious about trying new materials where the heat would demagnetize the bed. Do I just remove the buildtac and clip on a new surface, or do I have to change the entire bed, heating element and all? I'm not sure which part is magnetic. Do I need new heater/nozzle, etc? And I figured i would just throw a cardboard box over the whole drat thing until I make a proper enclosure.
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Jun 9, 2019 21:14
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AgentCow007 posted:So I have an Ender 3 with the magnetic bed, and am getting curious about trying new materials where the heat would demagnetize the bed. Do I just remove the buildtac and clip on a new surface, or do I have to change the entire bed, heating element and all? I'm not sure which part is magnetic. Do I need new heater/nozzle, etc? And I figured i would just throw a cardboard box over the whole drat thing until I make a proper enclosure. The Ender 3 Pro magnetic bed itself is just aluminium, the textured mat is the magnetic bit so remove it and just stick a glass bed on top of the aluminium. I tried the IKEA tile trick but ended up buying a £13 creality glass bed with textured coating which works great for PLA and has permanently stuck itself to the aluminium. I also just bought a 3mm fibreglass plate and stuck a PEI sheet to it for printing PETG which I've clipped on top of the glass and will be testing out tomorrow.
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Jun 9, 2019 21:45
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TKIY posted:What's the best lubricant for the various guide rods on my Prusa and the screw in my Photon? Use a thick way oil like Vactra No. 2, or white lithium. Do not use a thread-loosener like Liquid Wrench or WD-40, although it's better than nothing. Any drips of oil you get on the bed in this process should be cleaned off very thoroughly.
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Jun 9, 2019 23:18
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Does anyone have any thoughts for top layers that seem to be excessively over-extruded but only on the inside? the walls look great but the fill of the top layers seem to be beefier and go higher than the outer edges. super weird. one was with my usual simplify3d settings, and the other was my first print of basically the defaults with Prusa Slicer.
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Jun 10, 2019 02:42
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Print a calibration cube and measure it. I'll bet you're overextruding everywhere and the walls just look okay because it's pushed out consistently all the way around. If that checks out fine, you could play with the top layer trace width settings in PrusaSlicer's advanced print settings.
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Jun 10, 2019 02:48
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As a followup to my previous posts, I did the 3d printing presentation at my friend's school on Friday. I was one of the presenters in a side classroom, while the children had their own science fair displays in the main hall area. It was about two hours of having kids and parents come by, check out the stuff I brought and look at the printer and ask some questions and listen to me ramble about 3d printing. I think it went pretty well and my friend and the faculty I met seemed glad that I could come by. If I had known that the children would be young earlier on (it's an elementary school so it's K through 4th grade) I might have printed more in bright colors and focused more on hands on stuff. The big cube gears and mechanical containers and lithophanes were popular, though. I saw kids come in and run to the fluorescent yellow stuff immediately. Also, everyone loves baby Groot. I could've made a dozen baby groots and been a hit with all the faculty. I wasn't sure exactly how to prepare but it seemed to be a good presentation and if I go again next year (my friend may be switching to teach at a different school) I'll have a bunch of stuff on hand already and can add some more. I didn't get the spider robot working before the presentation so I didn't bring it, for example (arduino wouldn't program, I'm not sure if my FTDI usb to serial chip is counterfeit or what). More than one of the children had a sibling or cousin with a 3d printer and one young man wanted to know how to get the prints off the print bed easier because his sister's printer had them get stuck fairly often. I showed him my glue stick and explained that it would depend on the kind of print bed she uses, etc. I also had requests to print this or that particular thing which we didn't have time for, but I was able to bring up thingiverse and show them what kind of models matched what they wanted and what kind of things could be printed out. I think that the only improvement I could make overall would be to have a couple of paper signs or posters showing a hot end laying down plastic or other "how 3d printing works" kind of infographics, but I didn't know what the format would be like. I did have my laptop display Cura playing an active nozzle travel on a layer of one of the models I brought as an example of "this is what it's doing" kind of thing and I think it helped people understand layers. I'm kind hopeful that there'll be a next year!
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Jun 10, 2019 18:22
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Finally got a few mins to set up the SLA printer. Will have a trip report tonight. Pig is currently taking ~3 hours to print, according to the little display. Edit : neat, when you pause it, it'll raise the bed out of the resin vat and you can make sure it's printing. Bout halfway there. Need to grease the z screw though cause there's 2 places that sort of grind a little. Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jun 11, 2019 |
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Jun 10, 2019 23:30
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Trip report! Man the resin stinks. I'm used to kinda "nugh" smells from casting resins and whatnot, but this is a whole new level of funk. Printed out the pigs. The resin is pretty flexible when it's not cured yet, but it WILL split (as I learned when I tried to take one of the pigs off the bed without a scraper). Rinsed off in 91% IPA and then rinsed in water, and dried a bit. Lobbed into the nail oven for about 3-4 mins (had to keep hitting the 60 second button, gotta figure out how to bypass that). All in all, prints beautifully. I thought the pigs were bigger than they actually are. They look to be like, quarter sized? but they are closer to nickel sized if not penny. Took about 2hrs50mins for the print to complete. Gonna try slic3r and see if I can print out something from it. All in all, i don't think I've wasted the cash. Only one print in, and other than greasing the z screw there's not much that needs to be tweaked.
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Jun 11, 2019 03:57
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For a project I want to take an existing 3D printer .stl file and slice it up. Can this be done in software? I know almost nothing about 3D printing. To be specific, I'm trying to take a fully 3 dimensional bust of a Roman emperor and slice it so that there's only a profile view. That slice would then be used as a bas relief.
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Jun 11, 2019 04:23
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Meshmixer should do what you want to do pretty easily. Import the file, then just go to transform (I think) and slice. I think you'll have to select a plane to slice it on, but I'm not 100% on that. I haven't used it in a while.
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Jun 11, 2019 05:02
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Autodesk's 123D Make program used to do that kind of stuff (slicing 3D models into "plates", and all kinds of other stuff) effortlessly. I don't think the program's around anymore but might be worth a look. e: oh nvm I misunderstood your requirement
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Jun 11, 2019 06:07
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Choose your own adventure; Meshmixer 3D Builder netfabb 123D design Prusa Slicer All do splitting/plane cuts
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Jun 11, 2019 07:41
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Trip report! I thought FDM slicers generally were absolute poo poo for resin printing because they are wildly different gcode sets.
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Jun 11, 2019 08:56
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After over a month of my printer being down I've finally got it back up and printing! Did the full upgrade to the Prusa mk2.5s from mk2s including the textured sheet and holy crap I don't think it's ever printed better. Love the new 7x7 bed leveling and the prints coming off that textured sheet are awesome! I've been printing for 3 days straight with (knock on wood) 0 failed prints. Also, I haven't done anything to the sheet, slapped it on right out of the package and started printing, no cleaning or anything, it just works! Just printing PLA right now, but so happy to have my printer back up and running.
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Jun 11, 2019 12:44
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Stupid_Sexy_Flanders see if you can get ResinAway. I've had much better results with it than IPA and if you are sensitive to fumes it smells a lot better too.
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Jun 11, 2019 17:54
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This is a very timely discussion for me, as I just purchased a used Form 2. Their (stupidly expensive) resin just showed up this morning, so I was planning on doing my first print today. I've heard the Formlabs resin doesn't smell as terrible as other resins, but that remains to be seen.
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Jun 11, 2019 20:23
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I'm using the Anycubic stuff right now because it was on sale but I'm trying Monocure rapid next time for the same reason. Congrats on the Form 2, it's a hell of a machine from what I've read.
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Jun 11, 2019 22:00
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Yeah the Form2 is very well made and the level of Consistently Just Works(tm) in it is super high. I didn't truly fully appreciate that until I started reading about the degree to which people gently caress around and fiddle with the cheap options.
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Jun 11, 2019 22:04
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Goddamn, the photon is on sale for 339 at amazon for the moment. Discount price and a coupon you can clip.
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Jun 11, 2019 22:12
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So how dangerous are these fumes, exactly. I have a spot in a detached garage that wouldn't get into the house, but also wouldn't be ventilated - is that good enough?
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Jun 11, 2019 22:27
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Apparently not the bad. I had planned on venting mine but really I don't even notice it anymore.
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Jun 11, 2019 23:07
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Formlabs resin is basically on the same level as household cleaners, handling and ventilation wise. Wear gloves, wash if you get it on your hands, don't eat it, etc. If you want to get really exact, read the MSDS. Don't know about other brands of resin. I've handled other resin prints from other types of printer and some of them are really smelly and take forever to outgas. The formlabs stuff doesn't even register to me in comparison. Ventilation is more noticeably needed for the isopropyl alcohol rinse and cleaning, imo.
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Jun 11, 2019 23:09
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Yup another reason I prefer ResinAway.
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Jun 11, 2019 23:21
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So I am trying to calibrate my Ender 3 extruder and my first measurement was so far off that I took another two right after the first one and they all have a massive variance. I marked at 120mm, extruded 100mm via octopi terminal, remainder should be 20mm: Test 1: 27.5mm Test 2: 30.3mm Test 3: 31.6mm What on Earth is going on here?? These are literally one test after another, no change between tests... just mark, send "G1 E100 F100", measure, repeat.
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Jun 12, 2019 00:48
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If you extrude quickly it will often skip. When I was doing the extrusion calibration for my maker select, the guide suggested doing the extruder steps by hand from the click wheel and not too quickly. They also had me doing 100mm at a time and it was suggested that you didn't have to have the hotend on if you were worried about wasting filament. I haven't done much calibration on my Ender 3, it's been pretty good out of the box.
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Jun 12, 2019 01:57
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Rexxed posted:If you extrude quickly it will often skip. When I was doing the extrusion calibration for my maker select, the guide suggested doing the extruder steps by hand from the click wheel and not too quickly. They also had me doing 100mm at a time and it was suggested that you didn't have to have the hotend on if you were worried about wasting filament. I haven't done much calibration on my Ender 3, it's been pretty good out of the box. Oh, it's been fantastic out of the box. I just wanted to do a little tweaking because parts that are supposed to fit together are just a bit too tight. I was certain it was going to be over-extruding. It wasn't skipping during that test, I think the default temp (185) was too low to melt consistently. At 200 I got a consistent 8mm under-extrusion. Which still blows my mind because my prints were solid other than being a tiny bit too large for a proper snug fitting part.
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Jun 12, 2019 02:50
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Measure e-steps with the nozzle removed and the heater off. It’s not something you have to do very often. May as well take the extra step to remove extra variables.
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Jun 12, 2019 03:07
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The Eyes Have It posted:Formlabs resin is basically on the same level as household cleaners, handling and ventilation wise. Wear gloves, wash if you get it on your hands, don't eat it, etc. If you want to get really exact, read the MSDS. I agree with this post. FormLabs resin to me smells kind of peppery; it's distinctive but not unpleasant, and not all that strong. The 99% isopropanol is a lot more obnoxious. I have not tried the third-party resins that people are posting about, but most SLA resins are based on acrylates, and hoooo boy there are some really overpoweringly stinky compounds in that class. Light a piece of plexiglass on fire to get a preview.
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Jun 12, 2019 06:48
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The new extruder fixed the riding problem, it also showed m i been compensating by increasing the flow. The first test was like a volcano. My current issue is now the first couple of mm of a new extrusion doesn't stick properly. This is fine once your past the 1st layer, but it's an issue when the first layer has lots of small bit on it. Any idea what's causing this? Thanks for the help so far!
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Jun 12, 2019 07:04
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Like the first few millimeters when the print starts, or the first few millimeters after every retraction or travel move? If it's the former, that's normal; just increase your initial purge to accommodate. If it's the latter, the issue is that your extruder isn't recovering its pressure quickly enough after it retracts. You can compensate for that in your slicer with settings like "additional length after retraction." However, the proper way to handle it is to set up your printer's firmware to include a pressure factor in extrusion moves (e.g. Marlin's "linear advance" setting). You'll need to calibrate it for each combination of material and nozzle diameter and then add that to your filament settings.
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Jun 12, 2019 07:33
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The latter I think. When it starts laying down the skirt/brim it curls for the first few mm, then settles, but if it is filling in a non-solid base, it seems has the same problem. So a calibration cube sits no problem, but something with holes in it causes issues. its only the 1st layer as well, there seems to be no problems above that that I can see, but maybe its just a bit more forgiving past the first layer. I'll have a look into that suggestion - thanks!
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Jun 12, 2019 07:51
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eddiewalker posted:Measure e-steps with the nozzle removed and the heater off. Thanks. I got a much smaller error this way, and combined with entering my measured filament diameter, I don't have to mess with the flow rate anymore to get proper line widths. Moral of the story is don't buy filament at Fry's, I guess.
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Jun 12, 2019 09:36
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Trip report on the used Form 2: The hardest part about getting this thing to print was connecting it to the right wifi network. After leveling the machine (which was super simple), there was no other "calibration"-type stuff required. The detail is incredible, and post-processing wasn't that big of a pain. Everything went well getting the part off the build plate into the wash chamber, but I can see how it would be a major pain to clean if I had missed the chamber. I actually don't smell the resin at all, but that may mean that it has already destroyed my nasal membranes. Isopropyl is definitely more obnoxious than the formlabs resin, at least for the grey stuff. I'll take a look at ResinAway. What do y'all do to dispose of your IPA once it's dissolved a lot of resin? All the online guides I can find just say "check your local guidelines", but I'm not even sure what that means. The guy I bought this from said he just pours it down his sink, but I'm pretty sure that's an extremely bad and uncool thing to do.
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Jun 12, 2019 13:16
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Trip report on the used Form 2: The hardest part about getting this thing to print was connecting it to the right wifi network. After leveling the machine (which was super simple), there was no other "calibration"-type stuff required. The detail is incredible, and post-processing wasn't that big of a pain. Everything went well getting the part off the build plate into the wash chamber, but I can see how it would be a major pain to clean if I had missed the chamber. Contact your landfill. They'll have a procedure for hazardous waste. If they don't and you want to do the right thing try someone like SafetyKleen. Then it'll get
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Jun 12, 2019 13:26
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mattfl posted:After over a month of my printer being down I've finally got it back up and printing! Yah same, I was always disappointed with my MK3. The levelling was just never where it should be. I hadn't touched it for a few months and updated the firmware, the 7x7 levelling is amazing. The first layer finally prints great all over the plate.
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Jun 12, 2019 15:41
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