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I finished up a jewelry project over the weekend. 22k gold and (partially blackened) fine silver. Made from 22 gauge wire.
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Jun 6, 2019 18:32
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Yeah less posting of boring tools and more posting of things you made with boring tools.  
threelemmings fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 13:07
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armorer posted:I finished up a jewelry project over the weekend. 22k gold and (partially blackened) fine silver. Made from 22 gauge wire. this is with bent rings, right? man I did tried Viking weave with brass and it looked like fuckin poo poo I didn't have a draw block so I used a random assortment of junk drawer washers and I would not advice doing that, make sure you have an even set that has enough graduations.
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Jun 7, 2019 17:08
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SniperWoreConverse posted:this is with bent rings, right? Yeah the technique is called loop-in-loop. I made this from wire, which I formed into rings, then bent into little U shapes and linked through one another. You can smooth the chain surprisingly well with just a rawhide mallet and an anvil, if you repeatedly anneal it as you go. I pulled this through a hardwood drawplate a few times after that but it wasn't really necessary.
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Jun 7, 2019 17:41
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One for the jewellers- I'm rolling around a project idea that involves a great many small (1 to 2 mm diameter) coloured dots/cells in a square grid configuration, about 1400 to be exact. How would you achieve this? Setting stones is out unless they're round cabs and I can CNC all the sockets with a quick single endmill plunge and set them by peening each raised intersection with a punch-mark to spread metal over the cab edges, but cabs that small are obscure and way too expensive for the quantities i need. Rhinestones or ABS faux-pearl cabs are dirt cheap and come in all the colours I'd want (thanks nail art), but they're a little too cheap/wear-prone for a handmade art piece. I could even do a multimetal design with hydraulic embossing and have each 'cell' be an embossed point on a single insert sheet that has been pressed against a laser-cut die with apertures for all indicated cells (i'm not explaining it well but i dont think there's a name for the technique), but the technique won't scale down adequately to the very small sizes I need because of sheet thickness-linked bend radii. Probable Pick #1 is drilling all the cell holes through a front sheet of metal and then riveting it over a backer sheet with the appropriate colours/materials added underneath the indicated cell holes; it's a totally flat design that shows off the backing metal/s. Boring and safe and not that visually-interesting. Possible Pick #2 is... enamel. Never worked with real enamel before but I think it's a good fit, either champlevee (filling cut recesses in the metal with enamel) or plique-a-jour ("micro stained glass" where transparent enamels are used without any backing, allowing light through the design). I know, plique-a-jour is considered absolutely unsuitable for a first project, i know- but in the specific application of filling 1.5mm holes through thick sheet with coloured clear glass, surface tension/capillary action should retain the enamel in the hole all by itself, and all cells are isolated so there's no issues with boundaries/mixing (i think??) I've seen a similar (but much larger) technique used for very simple glass inlay in steel forged goods where a marble is forced into a punched hole in a still-red hot steel item and allowed to melt into place via the residual heat. I don't see why something similar wouldn't be transferrable to smaller items if the principles that make it work (hole 1.5+ deeper than the diameter, both hole faces planished before enamelling to narrow the hole openings to mechanically retain the glass) are maintained. plique-a-jour is almost never executed in this fashion (it's kind of a waste of an incredibly beautiful technique tbh, skill barriers notwithstanding) but i could find a comparable example or two, i e  except it'd be on a flat piece much thicker than those flutes are, and with greater + regular spacing between cells. If I can swing an open-backed enamel approach I'll definitely try, I have kiln access and the supplies are p cheap and CNC drilling will cut most of the labour except for actually applying the glass frit to 1400 cells. tl;dr- anybody have much experience w vitreous enamelling, and does my plan to attempt v crude plique-a-jour sound viable, and if not what else would be a good fit here
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Jun 9, 2019 21:53
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I don't have a useful answer for you here, but enamel sounds extremely ambitious for this. It's been high on my list for a few years now, but my work space is in a basement and I don't have adequate ventilation down there for a kiln. I think you'd have a hell of a time precisely filling that many tiny cells with powdered glass over and over again for multiple firings. Edit: Can you find colored fiber optic acrylic in the thicknesses and colors you need? Maybe you could cut very small cylinders from that and glue them into holes in a grid? Or sandwich the whole assembly between clear glass sheets? Is this project a pendant or something? Just curious what sort of wear it would have to deal with. armorer fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jun 9, 2019 |
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Jun 9, 2019 22:17
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I was hoping I could apply the frit paste with a syringe to make things quick but apparently that doesn’t work well, too many clogs. Using whole sections of transparent rod/cylinder is a much, much better idea, though, thanks- it’s perfect for a million identical holes. I hadn’t considered fiber optic rod but it’s made in the diameters i’d need, and it’s lighter than glass which is nice for a wearable. (Probably a pendant, btw, possibly earrings if they’re light enough, but i strongly doubt that’s in the cards for any design) Fiber optic slugs glued/press-fit into drilled holes is now my leading candidate for getting the results i want with a minimum of pain, so thanks much. acrylic rod is not gonna be hard-wearing like enamel but it might be possible to apply a clear topcoat or sth to compensate. e: transparent tinted epoxy resin “cold enamel” also looks to be viable, it’s definitely syringe-friendly and can be mixed thick enough to be capillary retained in the drilled hole while it cures, and would prolly be faster all told than all the cutting and trimming and finishing of fiber optic wire stubs. just don’t know how they look with no backing, they never seem to get used that way. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jun 10, 2019 |
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Jun 9, 2019 22:42
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I don't know if it's any better than epoxy but this talk reminded me of this craft kit from when I was a kid called makit & Bakit where you get these plastic pellets you melt in the oven to make faux stained glass sun catchers, there seems to be a number of listings on ebay for the pellets in various colors.
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Jun 10, 2019 08:29
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Can you get glass rod approx the right diameter? Can you put a temporary backing plate on and blowtorch melt the glass then remove the backing plate? I don't know these techniques but it sounds like you could get some incredible designs with it, please keep us posted.
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Jun 10, 2019 11:41
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Can't use glass rod unless I scale the project up beyond being wearable, all I can find at 1.5mm is fused quartz, no colour, and I'd need 5 transparent colour options for the design. Things open up at 3mm but i'll avoid doubling the scale if at all possible. that was my plan for using glass in general, though, it's how real unbacked enamelling is supported pre-firing (albeit nowadays w a titanium sheet for nonstick backing). I'm gonna buy some plain fiber optic wire and a single transparent resin colour and do some test pieces before I go all in on the supplies for 1400+ plugs. also i dunno why I'm being coy about the project, it's gonna be a jewellery/art rendering of an RBMK nuclear reactor hall's core schema   originally it was gonna be for the lid of a locket or lockbox depending on scale, but now that I've realized I can do it up like stained glass I wanna make it work for bigass earrings or some other application where it's often illuminated from behind. If it's a locket cover I could put a tritium vial inside to v gently self-illuminate, which a fiber optic wire technique would transmit most effectively/visibly. also itd be criminal to make this thing and NOT include an actual IRL nuclear source of some sort inside. If i give up on keeping it as small as possible I'll probably go up to 3mm cells and do the box lid with much more flexibility irt the technique. yes, i could probably cut the number of cells by half or more and still get a functional representation of the core layout. i'm still gonna make my life hard and shoot for a 1:1 mapping of chernobyl reactor 4's core layout when it went Very Promptly Critical Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Jun 10, 2019 |
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Jun 10, 2019 17:30
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that owns beyond my capacity for verbals
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Jun 10, 2019 17:42
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Yeah that's great. Keep us in the loop!
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Jun 10, 2019 17:57
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bonus design thought: if i keep the cells to 1.5mm dia i could hypothetically replace the inserts for the startup neutron sources with the smallest size of tritium vial and get even stupider with this conceptually, but that's strictly a stretch goal/future modification given how much 12 vials would cost
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Jun 10, 2019 18:09
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Fishing line might have the diameters and colors you want.
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Jun 10, 2019 18:35
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If you could go up to 1.75mmm there are hundreds of options for 3d printer filament in coloured transparent and I'm sure you could beg the amount you need or just buy samples
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Jun 10, 2019 20:08
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What if you made a long version and then cut it into wafers. Could make a more difficult technique worth while if you got multiple pieces. I figure drill length would be the limiting factor. And also how the transparent material felt about bandsaws or parting tools.
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Jun 10, 2019 20:17
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honda whisperer posted:What if you made a long version and then cut it into wafers. Could make a more difficult technique worth while if you got multiple pieces. I figure drill length would be the limiting factor. And also how the transparent material felt about bandsaws or parting tools. I'd be amenable to that if it'd work and save me time; wouldn't with resin injected into the cells because you need to build up thick sections so I'd have to do just as many syringe-cell-filling + curing cycles as for independent pieces. otoh if drawing the fiber optic wire through a deeper hole isnt too painful it might be worthwhile, depending on how deep a section I could accurately drill the grid in + feed the wire through. that said, making a whole billet would 100% be my go-to if i were building the profile up from individual lengths of wire; chuck the bundle into an empty pipe and fill it w resin to fix all the wires in place permanently, forget about using metal at all. keeping 1000+ wires visibly grid-perfect in alignment would be a nightmare w round wire, though, idk how i'd address that, so itd prolly limit me to an all-metal opaque design using square wires and an inadequate number of cell fill colours e: on consideration a copper/brass/nickel silver/sterling square-wire billet fused into a bar in a forge like mokume-gane would own a great deal but is def outta scope for this project Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jun 11, 2019 |
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Jun 11, 2019 00:58
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unrelated: for the blacksmiths out there, it turns out that small hand-cranked centrifugal blowers are still actively being made and are acutally p dang cheap on the ol aliexpress, ie https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC...sAbTest=ae803_4 lil portable guy for like $4 shipped https://www.aliexpress.com/item/80w...sAbTest=ae803_4 proper cast-iron stationary blower for $35 shipped alternately if you SPIT on your ARTISANAL HERITAGE this wee battery pack-equipped electric centrifugal blower seems like a very expeditious way to get electric forced air without needing to be near an outlet https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-...sAbTest=ae803_4 Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jun 11, 2019 |
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Jun 11, 2019 01:41
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... this just reminds me of my latest idea of upscaling foundry burners. I may be looking at used leaf blowers as an impeller source... with every intention of using enough fuel to make use of that much air.
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Jun 11, 2019 02:06
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Also I would buy the gently caress out of a set of rbmk coasters.
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Jun 11, 2019 02:17
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Ambrose do you think it would it be viable to use solder stencils to squeegee in the pattern?, it seems like a lot of holes to go at one by one with a syringe
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Jun 11, 2019 05:37
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shame on an IGA posted:that owns beyond my capacity for verbals About 3.6 then?
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Jun 11, 2019 07:45
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honda whisperer posted:What if you made a long version and then cut it into wafers. Could make a more difficult technique worth while if you got multiple pieces. I figure drill length would be the limiting factor. And also how the transparent material felt about bandsaws or parting tools. 1.75mm printer filament fixed at both ends into a plate with appropriately drilled holes, clear resin filler, part off sections on the lathe.
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Jun 11, 2019 08:19
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Anyone have an HARDINGE HLV-H maintenance manual I can bum?
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Jun 11, 2019 18:01
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cakesmith handyman posted:1.75mm printer filament fixed at both ends into a plate with appropriately drilled holes, clear resin filler, part off sections on the lathe. This is how I’d do it if I wanted to do a production run to sell, as opposed to a metal art project, yeah. getting all the filaments pin-straight (prolly requiring each to be under modest tension + clamped at both ends) would need some thought. two plates separated by sturdy threaded rods + nuts. If any viable wire/filament draws itself shorter when heated (like heat-shrink tubing) it could be a simpler matter of clamping both ends and spot-heating wayward filaments until taut as you go. Not sure how to clamp that many small filaments securely without a couple giving up the ghost once theyre good and buried in the billet. Maybe cutting all the filaments to the same length and then using a torch to draw beads on the end once threaded through the alignment jig plates, and then separating the plates by turning the nuts on the threaded rod like a screw press, or heating the filaments to draw them taut? a shitload of work but if it lets you run a whole pile of em at once, maybe at this point i just gotta screw around w the materials and see what works out well, i think Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jun 11, 2019 |
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Jun 11, 2019 18:04
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rump buttman posted:Anyone have an HARDINGE HLV-H maintenance manual I can bum? http://www.babinmachine.com/PDF/Hardinge%20HLV-H%20Maintenance%20Manual.pdf That work for you?
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Jun 11, 2019 18:33
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Yooper posted:http://www.babinmachine.com/PDF/Hardinge%20HLV-H%20Maintenance%20Manual.pdf Yep, that's the one. I was having trouble googling it for whatever reason, posted here and then realized I should have emailed Hardinge. Thanks! My headstock has been making a little more noise then it use to and I'm trying to figure out if it's a figment of my imagination or some maintenance due.
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Jun 11, 2019 20:55
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Welp, just ordered a 500cfm Dayton centrifugal blower for the air source for Foundry Burner Mk2. I'm guesstimating around 2.5M BTU/hr. I may be going overboard.
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Jun 12, 2019 02:28
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That’s... a lot. What refractory are you going to use?
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Jun 12, 2019 06:25
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This time I'm thinking real stuff - Mizzou or Kast-o-lite. Going tilting pour design so that it's not as much of pain to operate as it would be with 300 pounds of crucible to lift out, lol
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Jun 12, 2019 11:59
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*cough* build thread *cough*
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Jun 12, 2019 18:21
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Welding advice please, this is the first actual thing I've made, previously I've just practiced striking an arc and laying straight beads: 2mm 6013 rods, 40A, I can leave a bead on the 5mm plate with that setting that doesn't chip off, I just need to stick the nuts to the plate. They appear fairly well stuck, certainly enough for this job. I can't hammer them off but I had to put what seemed like a lot of heat into it. Do I need thicker rods for this job?
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Jun 12, 2019 21:13
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It’s been a while since I did much welding, but I didn’t like running anything less than an 1/8” (3mm?) rod on plate. The thinner electrodes burn up too fast and don’t get as much penetration. I’d use the biggest rod on the highest amperage I could without burning through/leaving undercut edges -faster, deeper welds, but if you have a small machine it’s harder on the duty cycle running at higher amperage. From your pictures it doesn’t look like you are getting much penetration-the welds look like they’re sitting on top of the plate and nut instead of biting into them, but that could just be slag. 6011 penetrates a bit better and works better on dirty materials than 6013, but it does spatter a little more. Try a little larger rod in 6011 a little hotter (you’d have to really try to burn through 5mm plate) and see how it goes.
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Jun 12, 2019 21:42
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I did some stuff while I could before work today https://imgur.com/gallery/nSSrQ7N
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Jun 12, 2019 22:43
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There's enough penetration but it doesn't look great, I whaled on it with a hammer and they didn't shift. Thanks for the advice, I'll get some thicker rods to try when I pick up a proper mall, this hand held freebie that came with the welder is a joke.
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Jun 12, 2019 22:52
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There's proud deposited metal in front of the join but then a trough closer to it instead of a raised fillet, which says to me that you overheated the thinner flatbar stock starting the puddle and got overpenetration at the root. My guess would be that you focused your heat directly on the join and split the difference evenly, which is only indicated if both parts are of the same thickness and have the same geometry. You wanna dwell more on the heavier material at first and "anchor" the puddle in it, or else you'll overheat the thinner stock waiting for the thicker one to come to temp. Ideally both parts should have the same temperature colour at any given point, and will get 'greasy' + start to flow at the same instant.
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Jun 12, 2019 23:44
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What would be the minimum thickness of mild steel plate you guys would consider for using as a griddle/cooking top for a gas grill? I'd like it to not warp, but I also don't want to have to use the forklift to install it? I'm thinking around half of a small bbq grill, maybe 18" x 12".
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Jun 13, 2019 00:17
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Pimblor posted:What would be the minimum thickness of mild steel plate you guys would consider for using as a griddle/cooking top for a gas grill? I'd like it to not warp, but I also don't want to have to use the forklift to install it? I'm thinking around half of a small bbq grill, maybe 18" x 12". I have a sheet of 3/8 steel in my oven and it works quite well. There's no issues with warpage. A 12" X 18" X 3/8" piece of steel will weigh 23 pounds. Upsize it to 1/2" plate and it goes up to 30.5 lbs.
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Jun 13, 2019 02:06
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I also use 3/8 on my grill. Takes a while to come to temp but Holy drat do I love cooking on it.
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Jun 13, 2019 02:33
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In the opposite direction you have uncle Bumblefuck's 1" plate griddle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNAr7adtpdY
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Jun 13, 2019 04:16
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