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SO MUCH BOOST.
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Jun 13, 2019 21:36
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 Not sure if this will give you the range you need but it might be a good start. They have another that goes up to 300psi
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Jun 13, 2019 23:58
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That's a big snail.
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Jun 14, 2019 00:01
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Skookum choocher
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Jun 14, 2019 00:46
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Part of me has buyers remorse, because not only am I over budget- but this new turbo requires a few grand in mods just to support its size. I have to switch to an electric water pump, add oversized studs to the block, and obviously add more fuel. Goodbye next several paychecks. *edit* Still worth it.
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Jun 14, 2019 03:26
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Reminds me, I need to work on a new water pump solution. I have opinions about EWPs.
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Jun 14, 2019 12:13
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the spyder posted:Part of me has buyers remorse, because not only am I over budget- but this new turbo requires a few grand in mods just to support its size. I have to switch to an electric water pump, add oversized studs to the block, and obviously add more fuel. Goodbye next several paychecks. And it sure looks like it can eat a lot of apex seals.  seriously that looks amazing 
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Jun 14, 2019 12:27
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mekilljoydammit posted:Reminds me, I need to work on a new water pump solution. I have opinions about EWPs. I would honestly rather not run one. I’ve already got 4x450l fuel pumps, 4x 12v fans, and all the standard electrical needs. Going EWP commits me to a 180amp alternator, which adds $500 to the build. And then I have the issue of the waterpump housing being the alternator mount. We will see once it’s in the car. I already have a $300 CNC wheel’d Stock pump I was planning on using. Welp.
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Jun 14, 2019 16:30
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Obligatory: Why do you need to run an electric water pump? No room for belts, etc.? Would it be possible to drive the regular water pump with a motor like some race cars that don't have bespoke EWPs available, or is that again a packaging problem?
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Jun 14, 2019 23:08
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 That turbo. RIP apex seals if anything goes wrong, ever 
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Jun 15, 2019 02:50
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As much as you all would prefer an update that involves that AMAZING turbo, be prepared to be disappointed. Some of you will recall that earlier this year, against every sane persons judgment I bought this bro truck with the intentions of returning it to stock for a tow rig.  To summarize: I got hosed. It happens. I don't blame my buddy who picked it up, but let this be a lesson. If you EVER see 5 empty cans of ether in the bed, just pass on the truck. I've got diesel in my coolant, coolant in my oil, and it doesn't stop there! I researched and found that both are common issues involving injectors cups that seal the diesel from the coolant in the head and bad oil/water cooler O-rings. But that wasn't the worst part... This thing knocked like nothing I have ever heard. I mean it just sounded like there was not a single bearing in the bottom end, despite the clean oil. The seller claimed a bad injector, which is common and will cause a hell of a knock. Some quick youtube'ing later, I found a video matching my issue. So I decided to tear out the injectors.           So at this point I debated selling the truck as-is and cutting my losses. 7 of the 8 injectors failed the OHM test and at $150/each, the coolant cups costing $400, the oil cooler costing another $300, and that's not even covering the $150 in coolant hoses that are now diesel contaminated.... If this didn't fix the knock, I could have still been looking at cracked pistons. And we haven't even talked about the original issue this truck had, the bad transmission. All of this tells me I should have walked away. But I did what any irrational, broke, and frustrated car guy does. Say hello to $2000 of bad ideas v2. This is a 2002 F450 service truck that rolled. It has 212k, double what my truck has - but most importantly it's a near identical motor and transmission. The seller originally wanted $4k, but that was crazy. The good news: This had full service records and was rolled just weeks after a clean bill of health. There's not a drop of oil under it - all fluids are clean and everything I need is there. Plus it's a 250 vs 238 motor, which I'm still not sure I care about. The bad news: It's 2wd, so I'm going to have to tear down the transmission anyways to replace the output shaft/seals. But what's another $500 between friends.       The goal is to put this back together with the trans rebuilt and new tires for under $1500. This is only possible due to knowing a retired transmission shop owner who is letting me bribe him to oversee the rebuild. A prequel to what's to come: Guess I know one of the reasons why my trans is cooked! On a serious note, I believe this truck has the full BANKS PowerPack kit (turbo upgrade, intercooler, exhaust, etc).  Next up: Removing a 1000lb motor with a tractor when I have time.
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Jul 6, 2019 18:56
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the spyder posted:As much as you all would prefer an update that involves that AMAZING turbo, be prepared to be disappointed.  Really, you fit entire threads of awesome poo poo in single posts. 
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Jul 6, 2019 19:13
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FDs and 13 letter poo poo spreader Fords? 5 5 5 5 5 5
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Jul 6, 2019 19:58
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That grey slime in the valvecovers 
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Jul 6, 2019 21:49
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Did the original have the 6.blow? I've heard they like to gently caress up if you screw around with power adder boxes, like the one pictured.
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Jul 6, 2019 21:52
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BloodBag posted:Did the original have the 6.blow? I've heard they like to gently caress up if you screw around with power adder boxes, like the one pictured. 7.3 - which *should* be fairly stout from the factory, if you're not a moron and don't use loving ether. Sorry, still sore over the PO's idiocy. The truck has 99k on it and from the looks of it someone tried to cram 500K worth of abuse into that 99k.
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Jul 8, 2019 00:44
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7.3s are well built for stock use. You bump the power up a bunch, they tend to fall apart. They also have some Achilles heels, like the VCG carrying the glowplug harness, and the hpop that'll happily inject engine oil instead of fuel if the O-rings fail. Such a shame, only 99k...
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Jul 8, 2019 01:18
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https://imgur.com/a/F5kIMD5 After 359,000 miles this one had a bunch of blowby and got a refresh. The transmission is on rebuild #3 at this point. It's got a TransGo shift kit and a Tugger kit as well as a bullet torque converter and I very much recommend these upgrades. I believe there are also some valve body upgrades involving installing pistons backwards and drilling out some of the valve body. It makes for really firm and really fast shifts.
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Jul 8, 2019 02:32
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sharkytm posted:the VCG carrying the glowplug harness, WHAT okay, story time.
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Jul 8, 2019 04:36
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Crunchy Black posted:WHAT Not much of a story. You can see it in the pictures. The glow plug electrical harness runs inside the valve cover gasket. It eventually fails and if you don't get it fixed and start the truck in cold weather, it'll fire on 7, 6, or 5 cylinders. This leads to major issues. Fuel washdown on the non-firing cylinders, cam/crank wear due to massive imbalance in loads, excessive cranking cooking the starter, or (maybe the culprit in this case) use of ether. Modern diesels aren't the Screaming Jimmy's of yesteryear, ether causes a ton of problems.
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Jul 8, 2019 15:15
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$375 later I’ve got a bunch of parts coming from rockauto and a turbo rebuild kit off eBay. I decided to replace all the coolant hoses due to the diesel contamination. $155 Turbo up pipes (upgraded) $150 Coolant hoses, thermostat, oil filter, oil cap, coolant expansion tank $65 turbo rebuild kit I keep reading about 4r100 upgrades and rebuilds. I kinda want to rebuild the dead one myself. It’s got the common 2-3 upshift issue which is easy enough to fix. The question is do I risk it. YouTube has some amazingly good videos on it.... hurm.
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Jul 10, 2019 23:58
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Jul 11, 2019 02:56
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Absolutely do it yourself. Get some cardboard for when you pull the valve body so you can push the bolts through. It's not that bad.
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Jul 25, 2019 01:44
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Well, no truck news. Jobs kicking it up to 11 again and I'm barely staying on top of the house/yet alone car projects. Little here, little there. Oh and combine this with two weekends spend at our beach house doing rot/termite repair. So in short, here's what I've been up to and need to get caught up on. Brians 93T now has the motor back in it. The last parts are in and it should run soon.  I've built a motor for a secret project. It's just a "stock" rebuild, all new mazda parts. Very similar to the one I built for my White 94.       I helped Rob setup a base map for this REW swapped REPU.   And finally... my machinist called and said the magic words "Come get your motor, it's done". I woke up at 6 am and picked up this beauty. There's not much to see, but those who look closely will see 1/2" ARP studs running through the block. The crazy bastard keep a .0003" tolerance through all 7 plates/housings. Slipping in one of the lightly oiled studs makes a vacuum sound. It's magnificent and I'm totally hosed if/when I blow it up. This was the last job on his machines, shutting down/sold the company. It was a great day and a sad day at the same time. I can't thank him enough.          Oh and I reemed out the dowel pin hole to take a solid - 1 piece dowel. This should help keep it perfectly aligned (and hopefully won't crack like Dahm's did.)  So at some point in the next few months, you can look forward to me trying to slip this sucker back in my car. Did I mention my oil pan is in Hawaii... drat it.
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Aug 14, 2019 00:22
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  Is there a microphone in the world powerful enough to capture that sound without audio clipping? That thing is unreal.
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Aug 14, 2019 01:45
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it's such a shame that we're functionally going to be out of rotary parts in the next few years. Regardless, you're doing the lord's work.
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Aug 14, 2019 03:39
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This is a good number of rotors.
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Aug 14, 2019 04:23
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Crunchy Black posted:it's such a shame that we're functionally going to be out of rotary parts in the next few years. Regardless, you're doing the lord's work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesla-Model-S-X-Sport-Performance-Rear-Drive-Unit-1002633-01-H/143237962770?hash=item2159a5dc12:g:anEAAOSw~4VbVkMo
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Aug 14, 2019 04:42
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the spyder posted:Way ahead of ya... In a very real way, the enormous loving AC electric motor is the ultimate rotary.
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Aug 14, 2019 04:47
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the spyder posted:Way ahead of ya...
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Aug 14, 2019 04:57
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Take a look a few pages back. That failed-electric swap FD I bought is staying electric... just need to find a way to buy $20k in batteries drat it.
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Aug 14, 2019 06:29
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the spyder posted:Take a look a few pages back. That failed-electric swap FD I bought is staying electric... just need to find a way to buy $20k in batteries drat it. Yeah, that's my issue. It still costs more than a decent gas engine to convert, for the moment. I still want to do it with one of my FB shells at some point.
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Aug 14, 2019 19:56
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I have dreams of an awd electric conversion of my lovely integra, and filling the entire lift back area with batteries. Never gonna happen because that'd be like 40k in just batteries and motors, but I can dream of getting into the 10s in a tiny Japanese coupe.
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Aug 14, 2019 20:11
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Crunchy Black posted:it's such a shame that we're functionally going to be out of rotary parts in the next few years. Regardless, you're doing the lord's work. Someone should probably be looking into manufacturing options.
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Aug 14, 2019 23:37
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SeaGoatSupreme posted:I have dreams of an awd electric conversion of my lovely integra, and filling the entire lift back area with batteries. It'll get cheaper, eventually. Personally, I think there will be a boom in converting classics and musclecars in another maybe 20 years. At some point, the cost of fuel, oil, and maintenance of an ICE will overcome the cost of conversion, if not the social stigma of driving one, but folks will still want the style. And it's hard to deny the performance aspect.
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Aug 15, 2019 00:05
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I want an electrical miata  Batteries are dropping in price every month, and there's more and better used offerings. $20k will get you a very long way.
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Aug 15, 2019 00:14
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I just learned about LG Chem batteries. I can get ~130 mile range with 12 packs and full amperage to a Model S rear drive unit with only 6 packs. That's like $9k for 130 miles. drat it. I'm more interested in this electric swap than I am the 3 rotor...
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Aug 16, 2019 20:46
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$9K for the batteries, but how much for the change controller and motor controller? Or is some of that included in the price? I can also buy an LSx and a whole bunch of gas for $9K... though probably not at the performance level of a Tesla drive unit, to be fair.
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Aug 16, 2019 21:00
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$2800 for the Model S P85 Rear Drive Unit with Inverter. $700 open inverter controller $5500 (The LG chem came in Chrysler Pacifica Hybrids I just learned) for 12 packs. $500 charger $100 Throttle pedal? $1500 Cables/Wiring/Contactors? Wow I might just do this instead of finish the 3 rotor this fall. Just kidding. Maybe.
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Aug 16, 2019 21:28
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Yep, it's going to be a while before I convert anything. Needs to be a *lot* cheaper (because I am.) $11K can buy me a used something, or an older used something + a bunch of gas. For now, anyway. Prices are most likely going to be moving down on the EV stuff and up on the gas. I really want to do it, though, just not economically feasible at this point. Just don't have that cheddar available currently (no pun intended.) Even the slow Teslas are pretty damned fast. Would be hilarious in a car half the weight (see: Teslonda.)
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Aug 19, 2019 22:58
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