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Glad I posted, thanks guys I'll call the vendors and inquire.
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May 29, 2019 02:51
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always be closing posted:Glad I posted, thanks guys I'll call the vendors and inquire. I used this video for how to remove mine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oHIq7Rwlgs . I don't know if yours will be the same, but on mine I was able to actually unclip the white part at the bottom and rotate it a bit which let me push the pink sliding locks from the back with a screwdriver, which was a lot easier than moving them from the top down. Man I'm glad to be driving my car again.
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May 29, 2019 11:15
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^^^thanks. Spoke with them over fb messenger they said I'm in the e right place. Denso p1 or 2 will be in my car. $6-700, Gonna think on it.
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May 29, 2019 18:26
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always be closing posted:^^^thanks. I'm going back this weekend to pull the center console for my car and they have a 2001 v70 there. If you're interested I can see if it still has the ECM and pull it if you wanted to try to just have program transfer. It was like $12 for the TCM I pulled so I imagine it'll be the same price.
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May 29, 2019 19:38
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Going to go to the JY this weekend and try and pull a drivers seat buckle assembly. I think any P2 should be fine unless Volvo did something magical yet again.
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May 29, 2019 20:22
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Frohike999 posted:I'm going back this weekend to pull the center console for my car and they have a 2001 v70 there. If you're interested I can see if it still has the ECM and pull it if you wanted to try to just have program transfer. It was like $12 for the TCM I pulled so I imagine it'll be the same price. Yeah that would be great, I'm sure service is much cheaper with my own good core. I'll pay you for it, then we'll figure out shipping later if it's the same part# thanks. Your in USA too right? Lol
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May 29, 2019 21:45
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You bet! I'll let ya know if they have it and when I pull it. If it works out easier I can also just ship to wherever you're sending yours but we can sort all that out after I make sure they even have it.
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May 29, 2019 22:27
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Frohike999 posted:You bet! I'll let ya know if they have it and when I pull it. If it works out easier I can also just ship to wherever you're sending yours but we can sort all that out after I make sure they even have it. Sounds great. I'm assuming it's this unit 01 v70 wagon non turbo non xc: https://xemodex.com/us/product/engine-control-module-programming-transfer-to-used-unit-for-denso-p2-platform-vo-1050-8603125-10-23/
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May 29, 2019 22:32
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I am now the proud owner of a 2009 V50. Got it from copart for $3k, and had a friend fix the (minor damage). Drove it home yesterday without issues, other than the Bluetooth not working. Is this something that's worth fixing, or should I just stream with a dongle? Hopefully this will be a good beater.
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Jun 3, 2019 14:03
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Nice pull, how many miles? My daughter loves hers. I'm not comfortable in it for long trips but it's got gobs of power and everything works.
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Jun 3, 2019 17:29
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I don't have an answer to your bluetooth question but I didn't realize how cheap the adapters are now for that. I might just pick one of those up short term till I find a replacement stereo I like.
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Jun 4, 2019 11:50
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LloydDobler posted:Nice pull, how many miles? My daughter loves hers. I'm not comfortable in it for long trips but it's got gobs of power and everything works. Only 78k, so pretty minimal. The stereo isn't a huge deal since this is primarily a car for local grocery trips/dog park, but was hoping it was just a small module somewhere or something.
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Jun 4, 2019 11:54
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Someone stole the BBS center caps off my bbs wheels yesterday, only 4 days before my city's classic volvo meet at Ikea this saturday. Now I don't have time to get new ones before the show, wtf man
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Jun 4, 2019 15:42
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Can you get lovely fake ones, or stickers from Amazon to put on generic ones or something? On another note would anyone here be interested in my Sonic blue R? I put up an ad but if I don't get what I want for it ($8900) I'll keep it. I shoulda just sold it when the motor blew, I'd be money ahead of where I am now.
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Jun 4, 2019 16:15
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LloydDobler posted:Can you get lovely fake ones, or stickers from Amazon to put on generic ones or something? I wish you luck on your salvage title sale. I'm desperately hoping that once I fix the rear window on the R i can get close to 13k for it (based on the last 07 100k 60R on BaT).
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Jun 4, 2019 16:39
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Free Towing on all Volvo's https://www.autoblog.com/2019/06/04/volvos-all-get-free-towing-for-life/
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Jun 5, 2019 03:42
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25 miles though, don’t cancel AAA
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Jun 5, 2019 05:29
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And only to a dealer who you must let fix the car.
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Jun 5, 2019 10:57
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LloydDobler posted:Can you get lovely fake ones, or stickers from Amazon to put on generic ones or something? I immediately checked, but sadly the soonest they could get here even with Prime shipping would be next week after the show. Some hater out there probably took it off and slapped it on his 2009 Chevy Cruze or some bullshit
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Jun 5, 2019 17:34
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toplitzin posted:And only to a dealer who you must let fix the car. Isn't this prone to abuse by dealers? Once the tow truck drops you in their spider web, you are contractually obligated to agree to any repairs they wish to perform.
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Jun 5, 2019 17:50
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You can choose to pay for the tow to release the car.
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Jun 5, 2019 17:56
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Residency Evil posted:I am now the proud owner of a 2009 V50. Got it from copart for $3k, and had a friend fix the (minor damage). Drove it home yesterday without issues, other than the Bluetooth not working. Is this something that's worth fixing, or should I just stream with a dongle? Hopefully this will be a good beater. AFAIK the V50 never got A2DP (music streaming), only handsfree over bluetooth. One of the reasons I sold mine. Well, that and the 220k miles on it.
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Jun 10, 2019 11:20
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I have a bunch of automatically set functions on my 09 XC70 that I have a ritual of turning off and then acknowledging the dashboard notices that they have been turned off every time I start my car. I turn off: BLIS Park Assist Plus: Collision warning radar is permanently disabled through the car's menu settings. I then have to wait out or acknowledge the disabled collision warning, and acknowledge that the BLIS system has been turned off. How do I get it so I don't have to do any of this? I want to start my car and go, not have it be some sort of pre-flight checklist I go through every time.
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Jun 11, 2019 04:28
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Don't turn any of it off? I don't know if they're annoying or not.
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Jun 11, 2019 17:00
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LloydDobler posted:Don't turn any of it off? I don't know if they're annoying or not. I find the lights of the BLIS system distracting, and the collision warning system too sensitive as well as distracting. The parking assistance also starts going off during normal driving, I only turn that on when I park.
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Jun 11, 2019 19:42
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You can put electrical tape over the BLIS lights I guess. Parking assist seems to be set off by density changes like air brake venting or exhaust on a cold day, or snow. That’s sometimes annoying but I can ignore it, turn the volume down, etc.
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Jun 11, 2019 21:34
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THE GOD drat VOLVO OWNER'S MANUAL posted:After hard driving, the oil pressure warning light may come on occasionally when the engine is idling. This is normal, provided it goes off when the engine speed is increased. What the gently caress. You couldn't change the oil pressure sensor to be a pound or two lower? The oil light in my R flashes like once or twice at each stop light, but only in hot weather, and when the car is thoroughly heat soaked. But it's the first Volvo I've had that does it. And only since getting the new motor. So now because I'm not someone who lets poo poo like that go, I have to spend money to test my oil pressure and make sure it's not actually low. Fuckers. VV Right. Money. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jun 12, 2019 |
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Jun 12, 2019 17:23
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Put in a separate pressure gauge?
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Jun 12, 2019 17:40
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You should be able to read the oil psi via obd2 on that car right? I mean, at least see what the sensor is reporting. I guess if the sensor is accurate, you could have the ecu edited to illuminate the light with different parameters.
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Jun 12, 2019 22:04
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There's no oil pressure sensor, it's a dummy light. IOC is right, I need to add a gauge. Trying to decide if I want a gauge or a tester.
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Jun 12, 2019 22:17
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Having a bit of a hard time finding an answer on the internets. Last summer my Dads 2014 V70 had a problem with the A/C cutting out at ~28+ degrees C, and at slower speeds/stop and go. This led me to believe that it could be the A/C clutch being worn. Having read that you could potentially just pull it off, remove some shims and get the proper gap again, made me hopeful of my dad not having to spend $$$$$ getting it fixed in case we have another hot summer. I had a quick look in the engine compartment and didn't really recognize the setup I've seen on the slightly older Volvos in the guides. Could it be that they've changed to some different clutch setup in later years, one that isn't as servicable? I know you don't get the V70 in the US, but I'd wager that the XC70 is probably using the exact same system, maybe?
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Jun 14, 2019 07:18
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Have you actually diagnosed the whole system? Compressor clutches don't usually wear in the typical sense - if it was engaging but not enough you'd have a fuckload of noise and an insanely hot compressor clutch. You need to do some deeper troubleshooting, because in order of most likely to least likely: *The system is commanding the compressor to shut off because it (correctly or incorrectly) thinks something is wrong *The system isn't actually disengaging the compressor at all and something is wrong that is restricting refrigerant flow to the evaporator *There is a problem with the clutch coil and it is intermittently going open-circuit, causing the compressor to shut off *There is a wiring problem preventing the clutch coil from getting enough energy to hold the clutch closed *Everything else is perfectly fine and somehow a five year old Volvo has managed to wear the compressor clutch plate enough that in some conditions it can engage and some it cannot Out of all the A/C systems I've hosed with over the years, the last scenario is the only one I've never encountered on anything. It can theoretically happen, but usually on really old, high mileage type poo poo.
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Jun 14, 2019 19:46
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I've had it exactly once - on an e30 that was at that point pushing 30 yrs and 180k miles, on the original compressor, converted to 134a. I'm with IOC, highly suspect another issue.
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Jun 15, 2019 04:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:Have you actually diagnosed the whole system? Compressor clutches don't usually wear in the typical sense - if it was engaging but not enough you'd have a fuckload of noise and an insanely hot compressor clutch. Thanks guys. No, I haven't unfortunately. Hard to DIY that here (handling R134 is illegal without certification) so I think I'm going to tell him to have the mechanics look at it when he brings it in for a service. The whole A/C system works flawlessly right now, and has been since last summer. No odd noises etc. It is always turned on as well. Whatever the problem is, it should be connected to high engine bay temperatures as a result of high outside temperatures as that the only time it's ever stopped working. We had an unusually hot summer last year, with temperatures going above 30 degrees.
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Jun 15, 2019 07:22
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It being temperature dependent makes me think it's pressure related somehow. I wonder if that Volvo is new / complicated enough that it would actually directly monitor and report system pressures with the computer. In theory you could do any work without handling the refrigerant yourself by diagnosing it, having a shop evacuate it if needed, fixing the core issue, and then having a shop vacuum / charge it again.
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Jun 15, 2019 13:10
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The funny part is that on P80, P1, and P2 vehicles it's one of those things that it gets spread around the boards because it is one of those non intuitive problems that does get solved with the suggested repair. I did it the first time on my daughter's V50. For some reason, the AC would only go in 15 minute bursts where the light would be on but it would obviously be off due to hot moist air coming out the vents. Let it rest a few minutes and it'd work again. Measure AC clutch gap, oh look it's wide. Remove shims, no more problem. It's almost like it doesn't have enough current to hold it shut so it just releases without cutting power. The system doesn't think it's off but it is. Not sure if there's a good logical explanation but the fix does work if a wide clutch gap is the problem. It wouldn't be my go-to on a car that new though.
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Jun 15, 2019 18:32
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Yeah, I've had it on three cars, two of them P1s and they generally start out ok but when the engine bay temperature rises the gap means the magnet can't re-pull the clutch plate back in after disengagement. All of these happened in mid 20s (C) temperatures outside. De-shimming back to within tolerance (something like .3 to .6mm ) fixed it on all of them.
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Jun 15, 2019 19:35
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Has anyone had any problems with their fuel indicator gauge? My P2 XC70 ('06) will always show the fuel level when I start up the car, but some time later (30 min to 2 hours) the dial will go to below empty without the low fuel warning light coming on. I also lose the estimated range of the car as well. It's annoying because now I'll need to fuel up based on the trip odometer from the last fill-up, but my worry is that now the gas tank will never indicate the levels accurately anymore.
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Jun 16, 2019 14:52
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Went for a drive to the beach the other day...  Oh... Well it's probably not a 6mt....  Well gently caress... It's going to be $stupid, right?  God loving dammit.
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Jun 16, 2019 16:35
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Jun 16, 2019 17:20
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