|
Ambrose Burnside posted:There's proud deposited metal in front of the join but then a trough closer to it instead of a raised fillet, which says to me that you overheated the thinner flatbar stock starting the puddle and got overpenetration at the root. My guess would be that you focused your heat directly on the join and split the difference evenly, which is only indicated if both parts are of the same thickness and have the same geometry. You wanna dwell more on the heavier material at first and "anchor" the puddle in it, or else you'll overheat the thinner stock waiting for the thicker one to come to temp. Ideally both parts should have the same temperature colour at any given point, and will get 'greasy' + start to flow at the same instant. I did try to start the puddle on the stock reasoning it has a lot more mass than the nut, sounds like I need to rethink that. I'll try again with thicker rods too. This is functional but I also need to start making a frame out of 13x13x3 angle and I'd like that to look neater, so more practice.
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2019 07:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 16:01 |
|
|
Pimblor posted:What would be the minimum thickness of mild steel plate you guys would consider for using as a griddle/cooking top for a gas grill? I'd like it to not warp, but I also don't want to have to use the forklift to install it? I'm thinking around half of a small bbq grill, maybe 18" x 12". I have a piece of 1/4" thick, 18"x18", that I use as a pizza steel in my regular oven, and it hasn't warped or anything yet.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2019 11:05
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:I did try to start the puddle on the stock reasoning it has a lot more mass than the nut, sounds like I need to rethink that. I'll try again with thicker rods too. This is functional but I also need to start making a frame out of 13x13x3 angle and I'd like that to look neater, so more practice. The barstock has more metal in it, but most of that metal doesn’t matter for our purposes because steel isn’t a great conductor of heat relatively speaking and electric welding only takes a few moments to go from cold to puddle to frozen weld. Plate is also bad at absorbing heat because so much gets lost to radiation out the two main faces as it creeps outwards through that thin metal mass. With the nut, otoh, you’ve got a big deep chunk of metal right where the weld is starting. It’s thicker than the plate through it’s ‘center of mass’. That whole quadrant of the nut will take the weld heat, and it will take more time to heat through than the plate, which we only consider a small portion of. If I were trying to weld some bullshit like copper, you’d be on the right track, because the whole piece would aggressively soak up + internally distribute the heat and come to temp much more evenly than steel.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2019 13:42
|
|
|
Oh poo poo So there's a new Machine Thinking out, and... it's an interview, with our very own blacksmithing goon ArtistCeleste, interwoven with footage of the folks at the Crucible in Oakland doing iron bloomery smelting! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYga8cdUSnM I had no idea my buddy was doing this. It's been ages since I last saw Celeste post in this thread, hopefully she'll come back around or something. e. looks like ArtistCeleste was posting about doing bloomery at the crucible a couple years ago: ArtistCeleste posted:I will be doing it under the guidance of this guy. http://jeffpringle.com (He doesn't take a lot of pictures of his work but there is a very small sample of what he does.) Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Jun 15, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2019 00:49
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:What if you made a long version and then cut it into wafers. Could make a more difficult technique worth while if you got multiple pieces. I figure drill length would be the limiting factor. And also how the transparent material felt about bandsaws or parting tools. isn't this how they hand make complex glass beads? fuse a bunch of rods into a mega log or something like that?
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2019 18:25
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Oh poo poo Any time goons update certain threads with youtubes I will get the reccomendations before I see the thread. Fuckin wild
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2019 18:27
|
|
|
Thanks for the responses on the griddle steel question, next question, hot roll or cold? If I went the full size (23"x18") of the grill at 3/8ths thick and milled out some grooves on the right, say .100" deep for grill marks would that cause any warping problems?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 11:45
|
|
|
Pimblor posted:Thanks for the responses on the griddle steel question, next question, hot roll or cold? If I went the full size (23"x18") of the grill at 3/8ths thick and milled out some grooves on the right, say .100" deep for grill marks would that cause any warping problems? I doubt it'll matter much. Worst case one burner is on, the other is off, and it warps. Hot-roll / cold-roll probably won't change it much. Even the grooving likely won't hurt you.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 12:23
|
|
|
Cold rolled would be my preference, mill scale isn't smooth and it could flake off. If you're going to machine it, the scale is a bitch on tooling. Of course, cold rolled has more internal stress.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 13:00
|
|
|
If you can only get hot rolled for whatever reason, soaking in vinegar (or muriatic acid, if you happen to have concrete cleaner around?) makes it easier when you try to mechanically take off the mill scale. Of course, be careful if you have to use acid. Then coat in some oil and burn it in on the grill. It owns. And yeah, I wouldn't worry about warping too much.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 13:57
|
|
|
If it warps, hammer it level again. If it warps again a second time, try again with thicker steel. Also yeah that video with Celeste owns, I was 90% sure it was her, but I got busy and forgot to post it 
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 19:36
|
|
|
All my local steel supply had was 24"x24" in 3/8" hotrolled and he wants $78 for it. Is that off the chart bad or about the ballpark?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 22:54
|
|
|
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3806076&perpage=40&pagenumber=302#post495984033 lol a goon bought the insert cutter angle grinder wheel of death
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 23:22
|
|
|
Pimblor posted:All my local steel supply had was 24"x24" in 3/8" hotrolled and he wants $78 for it. Is that off the chart bad or about the ballpark? I just bought 3 pcs of 1/4" plate sheared to 24"x24" and paid $96 for all 3. This came from a mid sized regional supply house. $78 for a single piece, of 3/8", seems not unreasonable for a local steel supplier.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 23:43
|
|
|
So I bought a milling machine last week. It is an Index 55, Im not sure if it's a Super 55 because I'm not sure what designates that yet tbh. It was dusty, dirty, greasy, full of mouse nests, and unused for the past 15 years. I bought it from the old owner's grandson. It is missing a few parts that are easily replaced, namely the motor that drives the table feed gearbox and some covers/guards. As you'll see in the pictures, the wiring is atrocious and I will be addressing that as well. Here is a dump of pictures from picking it up at the seller's house and partway through a speedrun cleanup that I'm doing a few hours a day after work. I am not doing a full restoration on it because honestly I don't need shiny paint, I just need it to work. Ways are in good shape with some wear but most of the scraping is visible. This thing has zerk fittings all over it for lubrication. Some are for oil, some are for grease. The PO put grease in all of them, so I had a fun time cleaning petrified grease out of all the oil passages. I put the table back on last night but didn't take any pictures because I was tired and forgot. I'll do another megapost once it is all done.            
iForge fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jun 19, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 02:14
|
|
|
I can see the half moon flaking. Those are IIRC .001" deep when made. At least the idiotic use of grease didn't cause any galling. As for myself, not much been on vacation. Last night I turned a screw with a flange. Replacement adjustement screw for the tapered gib in the deckel. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 07:04
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:This time I'm thinking real stuff - Mizzou or Kast-o-lite. Going tilting pour design so that it's not as much of pain to operate as it would be with 300 pounds of crucible to lift out, lol Have you plans or a design inspiration for the tilting foundry? There was a video on yt I saw with a smallish one but I can’t find it now. Edit: didn’t find the video but I think this is the same foundry they used which is about the right size for ‘home’ use. https://www.flamefast.co.uk/cm450-safety-tilt-crucible-furnace.html Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 10:05 on Jun 20, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 18:27
|
|
|
Backstory. I'm getting into metal working. I've barely started, I bought a single burner hells forge and I've been messing with rebar and leaf spring steel to make blades. Unfortunately I'm getting old, I have noodle arms, and health issues have made it real hard to swing a hammer for long periods of time. So I bought this thing. It was 50 bucks off full price so I figured I could make some use of it. Would it be possible to hook up a more "automatic" jack for shaping and possibly layering steel together?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 21:31
|
|
|
LegoMan posted:Backstory. I'm getting into metal working. I've barely started, I bought a single burner hells forge and I've been messing with rebar and leaf spring steel to make blades. Unfortunately I'm getting old, I have noodle arms, and health issues have made it real hard to swing a hammer for long periods of time. So I bought this thing. It was 50 bucks off full price so I figured I could make some use of it. Would it be possible to hook up a more "automatic" jack for shaping and possibly layering steel together? Take a look at what this guy did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oC63WyaoXN0 Also maybe think about building a power hammer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 22:15
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:i was looking around this metalsmith's old website http://transitforge.com/ and he's done a couple Art Treadle Hammers that are blowing my mind. only tiny pics unfort. this one's my favourite Like one of these?  page 316 of this thread has some other ideas as well.
Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Jun 20, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2019 09:16
|
|
i dont know how well it works but also i do not care
|
Ok you salty veterans will laugh at my sketch but this is the idea I had. I'm going to flip the springs so they're pulling downward with a cable attached to a (I think it's called da vinci wheel) wheel on a gear reduced motor. My anvil I can move into and out of place and secure it to the frame. I mean at the very least it might be fun to build. If I start from scratch wife will wonder why I bought the press frame. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2019 14:19
|
|
|
Rapulum_Dei posted:Like one of these? I think by the time I'm good enough to build anything close to that I'd have a very nice one already 
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2019 14:21
|
|
|
LegoMan posted:Backstory. I'm getting into metal working. I've barely started, I bought a single burner hells forge and I've been messing with rebar and leaf spring steel to make blades. Unfortunately I'm getting old, I have noodle arms, and health issues have made it real hard to swing a hammer for long periods of time. So I bought this thing. It was 50 bucks off full price so I figured I could make some use of it. Would it be possible to hook up a more "automatic" jack for shaping and possibly layering steel together? harbor freight sells a compressed air actuated bottle jack that you can adapt to that for more automatic control. https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-over-hydraulic-jack-95553.html https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-air-hydraulic-bottle-jack-94487.html
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2019 02:33
|
|
|
iForge posted:harbor freight sells a compressed air actuated bottle jack that you can adapt to that for more automatic control. If my new plan (Not the one I posted earlier) for a power hammer doesn't pan out I'll try that. Would that work for shaping stuff?
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2019 04:47
|
|
|
LegoMan posted:If my new plan (Not the one I posted earlier) for a power hammer doesn't pan out I'll try that. Would that work for shaping stuff? It will be slower than a power hammer for sure but it will have enough power for forging. Someone on youtube probably has a video of one in operation, start there and see if it will be fast enough for what you need. Phone posting or i'd find one for you.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2019 14:30
|
|
|
LegoMan posted:Ok you salty veterans will laugh at my sketch but this is the idea I had. I'm going to flip the springs so they're pulling downward with a cable attached to a (I think it's called da vinci wheel) wheel on a gear reduced motor. My anvil I can move into and out of place and secure it to the frame. My main issue with this setup is it's a fail-down rather than fail-up design: e.g., if the motor loses power or the cable snaps or a pulley comes off or whatever, it slams closed instead of opens up. Machines wherever possible should "fail safe." Secondarily, I'd be worried about using a cable vs. a solid linkage, as it gets going you may get slack in the cable at certain points in the cycle. Tertiarily (is that a word?) I think this makes for a hammer that slows down as it approaches bottom, speeds up on the up stroke, slows at the top, speeds up on the down, and slows again as it gets to bottom. Very not ideal for slamming the weight down on your work. But I suspect that can be solved by using some kind of ellipse rather than a circle on the motor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2019 23:25
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:My main issue with this setup is it's a fail-down rather than fail-up design: e.g., if the motor loses power or the cable snaps or a pulley comes off or whatever, it slams closed instead of opens up. Machines wherever possible should "fail safe." Thanks for the advice. I really want to use this frame but it might not be feasible. I've changed the design in my head to have the motor mounted at the top, using a lift and drop method with solid rods doing the holding instead of a cable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 00:13
|
|
|
Best homebrew forging press I've seen is just one of those firewood splitter rams with some custom dies on the business end. It wasn't ideal, but it moved quick and had enough force to do some decent work. Not like a proper press, of course, but it worked well enough for a home gamer like ourselves. You could probably just go to princess Auto or harbor freight and diy a power pack, ram, plumbing, and control valves with a frame that would be more useful for forge work. The open area under the ram is not really great for forging.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 01:37
|
|
|
Oh also please don't build a power hammer out of a hydraulic press frame. You need mass, both for your striking anvil, and so it doesn't walk across your shop floor when you turn on the reciprocating arm. Power hammers strike with a lot of force quickly, it will shear the pins holding the work area in place or bend the crossarm that sits on them. Build a frame from scrap or fresh structural steel and fill the static bits with sand whenever possible to make it as massive as possible.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 01:43
|
|
|
Slung Blade posted:Oh also please don't build a power hammer out of a hydraulic press frame. You need mass, both for your striking anvil, and so it doesn't walk across your shop floor when you turn on the reciprocating arm. Power hammers strike with a lot of force quickly, it will shear the pins holding the work area in place or bend the crossarm that sits on them. Every idea in my head gets thrown out after about a day's thought. The anvil itself is mounted on a block of wood that weighs something like 100 lbs, was going to move it into place when I wanted to do power hammering. However, the more I look at the frame I"m coming around to it being worthless for a power hammer frame. It was "open box" so I'm not even sure I can bring it back although harbor freight does have a good return policy.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 06:31
|
|
|
Hey don't get rid of it, presses are useful tools for all kinds of things. And don't get discouraged, always be tinkering, find new stuff to cobble together into something you can use!
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 07:22
|
|
|
yeah a press is a very useful blacksmithing tool anyway. Sometimes you want to squish instead of pound!
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 01:23
|
|
|
Rapulum_Dei posted:Have you plans or a design inspiration for the tilting foundry? There was a video on yt I saw with a smallish one but I can’t find it now. A bit late... Chastain's "Build an Oil Fired Tilting Furnace" was the initial inspiration, but I really like oil burners using positive displacement pumps, and I see no reason not to just scale it up. Maybe hydraulics or gears instead of the cable winch he designed around, changes like that. Progress is slow given new kid and other stuff going on, but I think it's a good path forwards.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 01:46
|
|
|
My new anvil, a little 22 pounder arrives Monday. I'm hype as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 02:29
|
|
|
MohawkSatan posted:My new anvil, a little 22 pounder arrives Monday. I'm hype as gently caress. That's awesome! I found a small ASO on craigslist for $50 but made from railroad steel that has worked for me, but it's been abused.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 12:49
|
|
|
I was walking through a small town yesterday with a friend and spotted about 80 ft of abandoned railroad steel, just sitting there along side an active train track. I stared at it wistfully as my friends dragged me away 
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 16:44
|
|
|
I mean, by the same token, I drove past a metal supplier and saw a lot of steel that wasn't being used either?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 16:58
|
|
|
What kind of work are you doing with such small anvils? Are you securing them to a really heavy base? The two my buddy and I have in our forging/blacksmithing setup are 150lb and ~145lb, so I'm not entirely sure what you'd do with something less than 1/5th the size? I know you can get really small ones (like 2-5lb) for jewelry making...
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 17:14
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:What kind of work are you doing with such small anvils? Are you securing them to a really heavy base? Well, considering the chunk of railroad track I had before was less than half the weight, and I live on an island where getting stuff shipped to me is a bitch, it's going to be a general use anvil. Knives, tools, what ever someone asks for that I have the skill and equipment to make. A heavier one would have been nice, but just the ferry to and from the mainland would add $180, and considering I made a grand total of $9600 last year, that's a prohibitive cost. And also more than I paid for the 22 pounder, with shipping and tax.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 19:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 16:01 |
|
|
MohawkSatan posted:Well, considering the chunk of railroad track I had before was less than half the weight, and I live on an island where getting stuff shipped to me is a bitch, it's going to be a general use anvil. Knives, tools, what ever someone asks for that I have the skill and equipment to make. That makes complete sense. I get confused in this thread full of people talking about restoring huge antique machines
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 21:05
|
|