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The stuff I ordered from alchemistsworkshops.com hasn't even had a dispatch notification yet, still stuck on "processing". Guess I'll be waiting a while to try them out.
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Jun 15, 2019 17:18
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My LGS got theirs in no problem, although management was overwhelmed by miniatures gamers and free RPG day gamers flooding the store at opening.
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Jun 15, 2019 17:35
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Gunder posted:The stuff I ordered from alchemistsworkshops.com hasn't even had a dispatch notification yet, still stuck on "processing". Guess I'll be waiting a while to try them out. Probably shipping Monday. I didn't even expect my order to ship out this weekend.
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Jun 15, 2019 17:38
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so do u need their $18 rattlecans for contrast or is there a rustoleum type gloss that does the same job?
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Jun 15, 2019 17:41
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BIG MEATY SHITS posted:so do u need their $18 rattlecans for contrast or is there a rustoleum type gloss that does the same job? That's the sort of thing that only comes out after extensive public testing, so... give it a day or two.
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Jun 15, 2019 17:50
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Just about to go pick up my contrast paints. In the meantime, have some pictures of my last deployment minis.
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Jun 15, 2019 17:51
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'Trast.
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Jun 15, 2019 18:34
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Testing Contrast over some Rustoleum egg shell matte. Hours vs seconds: I might actually get this army done.
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Jun 15, 2019 19:55
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Which blue is that? Akhelian?
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Jun 15, 2019 20:18
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Two Beans posted:'Trast. Get yourself some dropper bottles, son
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Jun 15, 2019 20:41
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BIG MEATY SHITS posted:so do u need their $18 rattlecans for contrast or is there a rustoleum type gloss that does the same job? I’m going to pick some up in a couple hours and plan to test it with Vallejo primer tonight.
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Jun 15, 2019 20:55
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I had my doubts but the Wraithbone spray has really good pigment and coverage. I’m cautiously optimistic. Edit: ok Skeleton Horde over Wraithbone owns bones pun-intendedly owns bones. PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 20:58
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Re: Contrast on Primers, i'm about to see how it goes on matte gray Valspar primer.
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Jun 15, 2019 21:01
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spacegoat posted:Testing Contrast over some Rustoleum egg shell matte. Hours vs seconds: Powerful. Hours vs seconds. Painting a full army super nicely seems nice. But the idea of spending ~4 hours per dude in a 100+ army with conventional painting certainly means there is a market for contrasts.
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Jun 15, 2019 21:38
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Powerful. Hours vs seconds. I've wasted my life. 
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Jun 15, 2019 22:02
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Yeah I based 80% of ten poxwalkers in a minute. Added a secondary blend and a base of Genestealer Purple while the constraint was still wet to blend the transition in another 1-2. I’ve got the clothes, weapons, a shade, and then touch ups/highlights to do when that’s dry. I might finish ten models in a total of like 30 minutes (not counting dry-time). That speed without sacrificing quality on highly detailed models will be well worth the paint cost even if it only works on select models.
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Jun 15, 2019 22:09
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Gunder posted:Which blue is that? Akhelian? Talassar. It bled over into the Nazdreg because I didn't give it enough time to dry, which led to some green, but nothing that can't be easily fixed. JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Powerful. Hours vs seconds. Yeah. I can't not take my time on even rank and file dudes, and GSC have so many fiddly details that I keep burning out on them, so this stuff is a godsend for me. It'll free me up to kill myself on poo poo like this instead:  
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Jun 15, 2019 22:09
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PierreTheMime posted:I had my doubts but the Wraithbone spray has really good pigment and coverage. I’m cautiously optimistic. It's lovely and archaic over grey seer too, wonder paint
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Jun 15, 2019 22:17
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The Jumpoff posted:How exaggerated is the rate of hobby knife mishaps? I've yet to annoint mine with my blood because i respect the fact that it can royally gently caress me up. I've had two slips in about 15 years and that's after using a blade past it's prime. I used the mould line remove for a while but it was just too unwieldy and didn't leave as nice a finish that I liked. The tip is so thick its hard to get into crevices. spacegoat posted:Testing Contrast over some Rustoleum egg shell matte. Hours vs seconds: The left definitely feels like it has more depth and texture to it though. ijyt fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 22:44
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spacegoat posted:Testing Contrast over some Rustoleum egg shell matte. Hours vs seconds: Maybe the one on the left is slightly better, maybe it's not. It's a tiny difference. There is not a tiny difference between hours and seconds though. Super cool stuff.
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Jun 15, 2019 22:55
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Does anyone have any Rubrics and/or Tzaangors they’d sell me, because this completely-loving-unplayable Fractal Blades box is making me sad and there’s no way I’m shelling out another $90 for two boxes of minis when I need like six or seven total. Seriously I’ve never been this pissed at a box before, Fractal Blades is total garbage
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Jun 15, 2019 23:49
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ijyt posted:I've had two slips in about 15 years and that's after using a blade past it's prime. I used to use the mould line remover until I realized I could get the exact same effect with the back of my hobby knife
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Jun 16, 2019 00:26
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food court bailiff posted:Does anyone have any Rubrics and/or Tzaangors they’d sell me, because this completely-loving-unplayable Fractal Blades box is making me sad and there’s no way I’m shelling out another $90 for two boxes of minis when I need like six or seven total. Wow is it really that bad? I thought terminators were supposed to be way better in KT
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Jun 16, 2019 01:21
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Mikey Purp posted:Wow is it really that bad? I thought terminators were supposed to be way better in KT They would loving have to be at how much they cost points-wise, the thing is each one is so huge that even at 125pts (like most KT:E scenarios, including the ones in the box) have you taking at most three models. It’s basically impossible to turn it into a real team without a bunch of Rubrics and Tzaangors, which only come in big expensive unit-sized boxes that I have zero interest in buying unless I can split them out somehow. If I would have known how ridiculous the box was at least I coulda grabbed the Terminators in their own box and saved like $30. Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 16, 2019 01:30
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My big piece of contrast feedback so far is you should use one even, thin coat, not one thick coat.
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Jun 16, 2019 01:30
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Tadhg posted:These own. Never stop being so awesome at this, dude. - Prime black - Drybrush white - Basecoat Averland Sunset - Wash Vermin Brown - Averland Sunset - Highlight Flash Gitz Yellow - Highlight Flash Gitz Yellow:Skull White 1:1 - Pin wash Agrax Earthshade The Vermin Brown wash really helps warm up the mustard of Averland Sunset. Few more models coming up today or tomorrow.
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Jun 16, 2019 01:46
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BuffaloChicken posted:Thanks! Yellow is generally as follows:  Right on. Thanks for the tips.And keep those pics of your awesome plastic space barbies coming— you're quality.
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Jun 16, 2019 01:58
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Pretty much finished with the first batch of Poxwalkers and for organic detailed models contrast is definitely an amazing tool. Here's a couple of comparison shots to contrast ( ) old versus new:   Bare in mind that I originally painted four of these at a time in about the same space of time it took me today to do ten. That's a huge improvement and looks better on camera too (the originals look way better in person). I mostly included the last shot because Black Templar is really a killer dark fabric color with just a single coat.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:03
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Apropos of nothing: I just checked, and judging by the bottles, at least, the former Forgeworld clear air paints are not matches for the glazes -- they're slightly darker. But I haven't made swatches, so that's just based on looking at the paint in the pots.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:04
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gently caress, I just ordered the whole Contrast set. Element Games is selling the whole thing, including both base paints and the medium for £137. Not a bad deal.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:04
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Stephenls posted:Apropos of nothing: I just checked, and judging by the bottles, at least, the former Forgeworld clear air paints are not matches for the glazes -- they're slightly darker. But I haven't made swatches, so that's just based on looking at the paint in the pots. I just looked and the plastic on my FW pots is slightly less clear than the plastic on GW pots so maybe try actually using a paint rather than judging it based on the bottle.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:12
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Booley posted:I just looked and the plastic on my FW pots is slightly less clear than the plastic on GW pots so maybe try actually using a paint rather than judging it based on the bottle. No, this is the new reissues in GW pots. (Though that would explain why my Angron Red Clear here looks lighter than the Angron Red Clear in Kris Beleau's video that uses the ForgeWorld pot does, so, thanks.) I just got back from the store, man. I'm plotting out swatch book 2 in excel as we speak.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:14
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Stephenls posted:No, this is the new reissues in GW pots. (Though that would explain why my Angron Red Clear here looks lighter than the Angron Red Clear in Kris Beleau's video that uses the ForgeWorld pot does, so, thanks.) Yes that's what I'm telling you, how the paint looks in a pot is irrelevant, use it on a model before coming to post that it's different. FWIW it probably will be slightly different, but saying it's different because of the pot is ridiculous on the same level as saying there's a new rhino coming because of sprue sizes. E: The GW pots also are bigger which means light has to travel further through them which means it will look darker. Booley fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 16, 2019 02:18
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For the ultimate contrast test, my five year old is painting a squad of blood angels. Last weekend we bought and built the kit. During the week they appeared to be deployed on maneuvers in lego land.  We bought blood angel red and a few extra pots based on his ideas. I plan to do the technical work with traditional paints. (Bonus breadmaking picture in the background.)  To my mind, the wraithbone contrast primer has some sort of super, duper propellant. I've been priming with rattlecans for years and this stuff BLASTS out.  It gives good coverage though.  I believe we're supposed to get some rain tomorrow so I plan to get a red coat on these boys, at the least.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:52
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Scouts are "done" I'm going to revisit the faces at some point, I slapped the 5 new ones together in a couple hours and it shows, but I hate these models and have spent too much time looking at them. Nova list only has 8 models left + touchups. 6 Eliminators, 1 techmarine and one Shadowspear captain. I plan on ading icons and weathering to the tanks and throwing together a display board. 
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Jun 16, 2019 03:08
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Eifert Posting posted:Scouts are "done" Absolutely stellar as always, I often get burnt out on marines but these bring the spark back every time.
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Jun 16, 2019 04:52
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Booley posted:Yes that's what I'm telling you, how the paint looks in a pot is irrelevant, use it on a model before coming to post that it's different. FWIW it probably will be slightly different, but saying it's different because of the pot is ridiculous on the same level as saying there's a new rhino coming because of sprue sizes. Okay, glaze and clear air swatches.   These, obviously, are not ideal, but they exist, at least. This is my new swatch book, which is one of them Karst Stone Paper books where the pages are made from crushed granite and flexible resin rather than paper, so they accept acrylic paints well without priming. This means no neat gradient like the last one had, but it also means I don't need to re-prime an entire book for a month and destroy my lungs again. (Also the dot grid lets me fit 19 paints per column instead of the 15 I was using before, and the book has more pages, so that's nice.) The downside is the crushed-stone-and-resin surface is kind of murder on fineliner nibs, so I'll have to pick up a bunch of cheap ones if I want to fill the whole book out. Or find a decent very fine ball-point pen. Colors: -Obviously I don't have Sigmismund Yellow Clear so we'll skip over that. -Bloodletter and Angron Red Clear are very close to each other; Angron is a bit more heavily pigmented but I think you could thin it down a bit and have an effective Bloodletter replacement. -Guilliman Blue and Calth Blue Clear are not the same color. Guilliman, despite being "lighter" than Calth due to its lesser density, is actually closer to a very light navy blue, while Calth is more of a cyan. It's not super obvious from these pictures but it's apparent up close. Looking at those pictures of contrast paint swatches made using the Getting Started Primaris Marine bases, you might be able to get a serviceable Guilliman Blue Glaze replacement with Tallasar Blue Contrast? I'll probably pick that up to test it. -Waywatcher Green and Mortarion Green are likewise not matches. I actually kind of suck at figuring out what the hell is going on with greens, so I can't give any useful commentary, but if you were airbrushing Waywatcher to produce a ghostly effect on e.g. Nighthaunts, I don't think you'll be able to color-match it with Mortarion. I can't see any greens in the contrast range serving that purpose, either. Could be wrong, though. As far as consistency goes, they’re not the same at all; the air clears are much thicker, while the glazes are more fluid and self-leveling. This is pretty obvious where I tore up some of the Desthshroud while applying a second layer (each swatch is two layers of its respective color—waywatcher green is very light and does not get darker as you apply more layers, while Mortarion Green sure starts to darken up). Apropos of not this discussion: Deathshroud? Weird color! It's a transparent light grey. I... don't have any idea what I'd use it for. I just picked it up because I was curious what the hell it even was; it’s one of those colors that doesn’t go on at all the same as it looks in the pot. (Also Valdor Gold is as interesting as I'd hoped it would be but Iron Hands Steel is pretty run of the mill.) Stephenls fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 16, 2019 06:44
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The clears aren't supposed to be replacements for the glazes. My guess is there's a replacement for thr glazes somewhere in the line of contrast paints. The clears are for candy coating. Deathshroud can get mixed in with the clears to darken them, or sprayed over them to shade them, or for shading metal without knocking down shine. They also pretty much only work through an airbrush.
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Jun 16, 2019 07:12
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Booley posted:The clears aren't supposed to be replacements for the glazes. My guess is there's a replacement for thr glazes somewhere in the line of contrast paints. The clears are for candy coating. Deathshroud can get mixed in with the clears to darken them, or sprayed over them to shade them, or for shading metal without knocking down shine. They also pretty much only work through an airbrush. I mean, I figured. ForgeWorld was producing the clears while the glazes were still available; it would have been pretty weird of them to put our mail-only specialist paints that duplicate the effects of paints available in GW stores. But I’ve seen people saying that “the glazes aren’t going away, they’re being folded into the clears,” and I wanted to test it. Turns out nope! Thank you for the explanation of what Deathshroud is for.
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Jun 16, 2019 07:20
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Stephenls posted:I mean, I figured. ForgeWorld was producing the clears while the glazes were still available; it would have been pretty weird of them to put our mail-only specialist paints that duplicate the effects of paints available in GW stores. I don't know anyone who has said that. The glazes are theoretically folded into the contrasts.
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Jun 16, 2019 07:24
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