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ShaneB posted:How can I get comfortable leading real slab? Falling is petrifying and makes me want to take no chances whatsoever. I just figure I'll be dragging my body across the rockface and that seems tremendously unfun. Slab routes are often more about keeping all forces balanced within a narrow margin of vertical than about pure adhesion. Most slab fails I tend to fall away from the rock more than I expected, often unpeeling from the top rather than blowing a foothold. Everyone fears the cheesegrater but it's rare that a fall will throw you so immediately against the rock that this happens. I think that's partly because as the load goes onto your remaining points of contact they naturally push or lever you outwards. Imagine a foot detaches while you have a locked off arm. As your body descends, your elbow straightens and your shoulder has to move outwards taking your body with it. The only situation where this doesn't apply is at full stretch, but I always avoid that because you can only apply force parallel with the rock face at full stretch and you need to press perpendicular to the rock to generate enough friction from the pathetically tiny holds. So effectively, the only type of climbing moves that would result in a painful fall are the ones you already know are useless. A lot of slab climbing is seeing that a big stretch would power you straight through the crux, then making nineteen tiny steps up. You can also successfully condition yourself to have a slab dismount reflex- make yourself ready to push the rock away hard with both palms. It becomes second nature. I can't get the last move of this problem and I've surfed down it like a crap backwards legolas more times than I can count. On descents I probably have to push off two or three times before I land. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1tKVsmx3GI
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Jun 12, 2019 22:28
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| # ? May 22, 2024 10:17 |
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I've been climbing outside almost every weekend for the past month or so. Here are some photos I took of my friends at Safe Harbor and Birdsboro. Both in eastern PA. I'd much rather fall on slab like this than any of these vertical or nearly overhanging faces with tons of jagged rocks!     Safeharbor was a blast but the rock got so loving hot after around 2PM that it was nearly unclimbable. Birdsboro is fun too but extremely chossy and it really freaks me out seeing holds literally glued back onto rock. Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jun 12, 2019 |
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Jun 12, 2019 22:40
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good god i sucked rear end in the gym today probably should've warmed up properly instead of doing one super-easy route and then loving around on a couple sustained and steeply overhung routes about 2 letter grades above anything I've lead yet, but still
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Jun 13, 2019 03:37
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KingColliwog posted:How do moonboards and kilter boards compare to outside climbing. Way more accurate than gym grading.
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Jun 13, 2019 04:48
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crazycello a few years ago posted:Gym bouldering grades are always easier because being unable to do anything other than v0 isn't super fun for people who don't take climbing seriously. It is not a big deal.
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Jun 13, 2019 04:53
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crazycello posted:Way more accurate than gym grading. Cool thanks. I Want to go try outside bouldering this summer so I’ll make sure I find an area with plenty of v0-1-2
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Jun 13, 2019 12:27
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KingColliwog posted:How do moonboards and kilter boards compare to outside climbing. Highly-repeated problems on the Moon/Tension/Kilter boards are pretty representative of the grade for that style of climbing. However, by their nature, they all force a pretty specific type of problem, with a focus on pure forearm/finger strength and body tension. That may or may not be the kind of climbing you have locally.
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Jun 13, 2019 13:18
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KingColliwog posted:Cool thanks. I Want to go try outside bouldering this summer so I’ll make sure I find an area with plenty of v0-1-2 orford or val david both have excellent boulders and good guidebooks available (orford's is even free: https://www.escaladequebec.com/topos/OrfordBlocs2018.pdf).
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Jun 13, 2019 16:16
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Hauki posted:good god i sucked rear end in the gym today I can relate to the random suck days at the gym. I don't see any rhyme or reason to it, some days I feel sloppy and weak for no particular reason. I think there are tons of factors involved. In realizing this is a fact of the hobby, I don't get bugged about it like I used to. I did have a super real case of psychological barriers that were overcome though. Tried a 5.10+ outside last month and failed miserably. I just wasnt feeling it.. Felt unsafe. Returned last weekend and finished it.
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Jun 14, 2019 05:20
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:I can relate to the random suck days at the gym. I don't see any rhyme or reason to it, some days I feel sloppy and weak for no particular reason. I think there are tons of factors involved. In realizing this is a fact of the hobby, I don't get bugged about it like I used to. yeah, fair enough speaking of psychological barriers, a couple friends took me up the 2nd flatty today and as (relatively) shallow as the incline is it was definitely way more challenging mentally soloing, even if on a basic level it was just like walking up a fairly steep hill the wind was whipping pretty hard when I got to the jump bit, and it took a bit for me to psych myself up to do it, then I landed and it was like 'that's it?'
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Jun 14, 2019 07:08
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My bad gym days seem to correspond with having even 1-2 drinks the night prior... Party less send more.
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Jun 14, 2019 14:18
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Drinking is generally bad for performance in sports. But beer tastes good....
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Jun 14, 2019 14:24
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spwrozek posted:But beer tastes good.... This has been my problem the last month or so. "Climbing would be so much easier if I could only lose 5-10 pounds" but then every Friday there's donuts at the office, work kickball league encourages drinking etc etc 
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Jun 14, 2019 14:56
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crazycello posted:My bad gym days seem to correspond with having even 1-2 drinks the night prior... Party less send more. Just 1-2 [Stares at beer gut]
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Jun 14, 2019 15:39
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crazycello posted:Way more accurate than gym grading. Tension board is harder than outside.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:29
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Baronash posted:Highly-repeated problems on the Moon/Tension/Kilter boards are pretty representative of the grade for that style of climbing. However, by their nature, they all force a pretty specific type of problem, with a focus on pure forearm/finger strength and body tension. That may or may not be the kind of climbing you have locally. Disagree. Big Pinch Pinchin at 45 was put up by a pro at v7, is at least v6 but gets an easy v5. Many of the 3s feel harder than 6s which I guess is just like outside tho. Strong climbers love sandbagging each other it’s like the ultimate narcicism I do feel like ihe T board specifically is the best thing I’ve climbed for developing commitment and contact strength
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Jun 14, 2019 23:32
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rest his guts posted:Disagree. Big Pinch Pinchin at 45 was put up by a pro at v7, is at least v6 but gets an easy v5. Many of the 3s feel harder than 6s which I guess is just like outside tho. Strong climbers love sandbagging each other it’s like the ultimate narcicism Every problem set by Will Anglin feels at least 2 grades harder than what it gets. The grading is really sandbagged and off most of the time, Its fuckin soul crushing, and it makes me feel like tiny tim everytime  . It is great though, it'll turn anyone into a mini version of d woods, I've never seen a method of training that preps people for getting on the send train outside like the tension board.
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Jun 15, 2019 05:34
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Anglin’s a hero. The wood on the T Board is a really nice touch - gotta really push and pull through those toes or you feel like you’ll slip right off
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Jun 15, 2019 06:04
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For about a week now, my right ring finger has been fairly sore. Particularly when I close my fist to crack my knucles - putting downward pressure on that finger hurts a fair bit. Does this sound climbing related? The pain doesn't extend down into my wrist or forearm or anything. I first noticed it last Monday or Tuesday. Climbing Friday / Sunday didn't seem to exacerbate it. The gym posts a "problem of the week" video on Facebook. Made my first few attempts on their most recent video yesterday, tons of fun and I look forward to figuring out the rest of it  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q89WfEu-cY
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Jun 17, 2019 12:31
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Sab669 posted:The gym posts a "problem of the week" video on Facebook. Made my first few attempts on their most recent video yesterday, tons of fun and I look forward to figuring out the rest of it I don’t think you’re meant to send your right foot so far at the end. You’re blocking yourself which is why you can’t reach the next hold.
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Jun 17, 2019 16:34
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KingColliwog posted:I don’t think you’re meant to send your right foot so far at the end. You’re blocking yourself which is why you can’t reach the next hold. You're definitely right, I rewatched the video the gym posted and that's how they do it. This just one of my better attempts that I also happened to get on camera. I was happy just to get the heel hook and move to the hold on the right.
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Jun 17, 2019 16:53
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I think you are supposed to just campus 
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Jun 17, 2019 17:15
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my current peeve is when the gym sets problems in black, grey and some shades of purple holds right next to each other. All looks the same from above when it's covered in chalk.
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Jun 17, 2019 17:18
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Tears In A Vial posted:my current peeve is when the gym sets problems in black, grey and some shades of purple holds right next to each other. All looks the same from above when it's covered in chalk. My local place uses white holds for their V3-4, the small toe holds look black within a few weeks from all the rubber scuffs 
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Jun 17, 2019 17:44
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Me, from above: "IS THAT ON???"
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Jun 17, 2019 17:49
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I can't comprehend why so many gyms leave the same problems up for months and months on end until the holds are more chalk and rubber than hold. Change your routes every month or so. It encourages people to climb often, it encourages the best staff in the region to work at your gym because of all the setting they get to do, and it makes your gym look better. It's a laundry list of benefits and absolutely zero drawbacks and it costs maybe $50/week in extra labour for a large gym.
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Jun 17, 2019 19:12
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Kasumeat posted:I can't comprehend why so many gyms leave the same problems up for months and months on end until the holds are more chalk and rubber than hold. Change your routes every month or so. It encourages people to climb often, it encourages the best staff in the region to work at your gym because of all the setting they get to do, and it makes your gym look better. It's a laundry list of benefits and absolutely zero drawbacks and it costs maybe $50/week in extra labour for a large gym. Every month? That is crazy unless the gym is super small. Generally good gyms do a section a week and have about 12 sections so you get 3 months to try something which is pretty good. Plus on easier problems you go through less chalk since you can get it from the holds.
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Jun 17, 2019 19:32
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Kasumeat posted:I can't comprehend why so many gyms leave the same problems up for months and months on end until the holds are more chalk and rubber than hold. Change your routes every month or so. It encourages people to climb often, it encourages the best staff in the region to work at your gym because of all the setting they get to do, and it makes your gym look better. It's a laundry list of benefits and absolutely zero drawbacks and it costs maybe $50/week in extra labour for a large gym. My gym has six discrete walls and each week they redo one wall. It works pretty well, aside from the insane number of people who come in on Tuesdays for the new wall.
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Jun 17, 2019 19:33
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I also enjoy having a stream of new routes going up but I think you're underestimating the additional cost unless you are paying your route setters peanuts. There are some benefits to not rotating routes too quickly. 1) Encourages you to try harder routes as there aren't always new routes at the grades at which you're comfortable. 2) Gives you the time to see improvement on the routes 3) More time to project hard climbs I personally think a monthly rotation would be too quick but that probably depends on how much climbing is available at your gym(s).
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Jun 17, 2019 19:34
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My gym is kinda dive-y which I like quite a lot, and boulder problems are cleaned/set in sections, where everything may be totally fresh after a month and a half. Top rope might take a little longer but it's more of a production. I like seeing these newer gyms with all matching holds for routes, but my colorblind rear end really appreciates having tape markers, even if I still have to study them a bit.
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Jun 17, 2019 19:52
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I think my regular place changes one section a week, and has six sections, including the traverse.
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Jun 17, 2019 20:09
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My gym leaves boulders problems up about 6-7 weeks and top rope routes maybe 2-3 months. They also have 3 locations locally that the same setters rotate through, so there is essentially always something new if you're willing to drive a little bit.
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Jun 17, 2019 20:10
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spwrozek posted:Every month? That is crazy unless the gym is super small. Generally good gyms do a section a week and have about 12 sections so you get 3 months to try something which is pretty good. Plus on easier problems you go through less chalk since you can get it from the holds. The gym I go to is one of the largest in the US, and each problem is switched out in one month on average. That's probably because it also gets really crowded though, so the holds lose their friction fairly quickly.
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Jun 17, 2019 20:43
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I am not positive the actual rotation at ET but based on dates about 3 months for routes. Not sure on problems honestly.
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Jun 17, 2019 21:46
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my gym (all bouldering) has a four week rotation and probably about 30-35 climbs up at any time. couldn’t imagine if it was slower
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Jun 17, 2019 21:52
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spwrozek posted:I am not positive the actual rotation at ET but based on dates about 3 months for routes. Not sure on problems honestly. Yeah, it seems to vary - some routes are gone after a month and some stick around for a few. Ditto problems as far as I’ve noticed. Anyway, my gym has over 500 routes up and I think it would be pretty disruptive to cycle everything monthly. As is it can be difficult to find open routes at busy times, I don’t think they’d want to close entire walls for more a few hours at a go, and it’s not like they’re putting up 20 new routes every morning.
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Jun 17, 2019 22:15
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Current gym (bouldering only) changes 2 to 3 sections a week (about 6 to 10 problems) and it takes around 4 weeks for a complete refresh. They have two other gyms (1 other bouldering one mainly roped) in my city and I think the setters just work full time setting a section of a gym a day. There’s usually 3-4 setters working at the same time and they told me it takes them 5-7 hours to set a section most of the time. Im not sure how much they get paid, but it’s probably a significant expanse. But the constant new stuff keeps the experience enjoyable and fresh. Going 3 times a week that’s perfect for me at my level because I always have new stuff to try and if i want to project something I take something newish so I have at least 3 weeks to work on it and that's fine for me. But my gym is super spacious and problems don’t cross each other much. so we need frequent refreshes. Gyms with super busy walls with a millions holds and hundreds of problems probably change wayyy less often and it will be fine because there's so many things to chose from KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jun 18, 2019 |
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Jun 17, 2019 22:15
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Went out and bagged Pig Dog. Great climb though the top is sketch. I think I’m done with try-hard V9 or pursuing V10. I have way more fun at V6. 
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Jun 18, 2019 06:43
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gamera009 posted:
This is how I feel but at the v5 level. At least until I lose 20 pounds
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Jun 18, 2019 09:11
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Hauki posted:yeah, fair enough Sup boco bud Second flatty is real fun, I've done it twice now but I don't think I'll bother doing it solo again. I've post-emptively psyched myself out about the danger, especially after that guy died on it this spring (I think) Went up to the Ironclads in Allenspark yesterday and climbed a few on Mount Boner :v Didn't do a whole lot since this is only my second time taking a group myself, and this was only the second time ever for one of our number. Beautiful spot, though.   
Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 05:54
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