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Thanks guys! I am glad that my work is improving! My biggest fear is that I stagnate. I'm always looking to do better. I definitely think the freedom to move around helps. I also always enjoy feedback! My confidence has greatly improved. I graduated college recently, and 2 of the jobs I applied for were photographic duties with major sports leagues in the U.S. I got an interview with one, and saw that the other at least looked at my work. That made me feel pretty good about how far I've come. The fact that I'm even being considered blows my mind. I don't expect to get the job at all. I'm fine with that. There is satisfaction in my work and I now know what I can offer. That will be key when my family do end up in Europe and I'll need to start working. I think it's best as a metaphor. Climbing a mountain is tough. We are always looking to the top, the goal, but rarely take the time to look back down and see how far we've come and enjoy that moment. Now hopefully the Padres will let me shoot a game or two sometime this summer.
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Jun 19, 2019 19:57
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Easychair Bootson posted:Formula 1 just posted a short video profiling a few photographers and some of their work. Pretty cool stuff. In all honestly there a fair bit of "yeah not bad but seems kinda sameish?" compared to that Rhys guy's pics. Most of his were superb and the guy really sounds like he is trying to do something different all the time Going back into my archive - two years ago, ten year old equipment. TBH hosed the pooch mostly by using AI Focus not AI Servo        - Need to go back and drop the exposure a bit/play with the highlights and brightness - Not actually a decent shot, more like hey wanna see somethign absurd being rallied?(Also been meaning to post more from that MTB race I did) quote:Moneyshot. Love it.
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Jun 20, 2019 10:26
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hello long time admirer first time caller So I've been applying to photography jobs for hobby money during grad school and I've made it to the final interview round as a student sports photographer for the department that runs the gyms, facilitates sports events, and runs recreational sports. As part of it I'll be shooting an event for the Summer orientation stuff in a location I'm pretty familiar with, and I should be getting a shot list either today or tomorrow. It'll be happening July 2. I've got a GH5 and an EM-1X I bought literally minutes before I got the call back (that I'm about to take birding in a few minutes  ), and a glass lineup that covers just about any focal lengths I need, so I'm feeling comfortable gear wise.All of my experience is with some sort of wildlife photography, so do ya'll have any tips for transitioning to sports? I feel that I have a decent command of lighting and knowing how to keep shutter speeds at appropriate levels to capture action, but this almost seems closer to street or something (i.e. capturing expressions and emotions) after that.
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Jun 20, 2019 22:09
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What's the sport and what glass do you have on the way or have already?
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Jun 21, 2019 10:58
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I'm probably not qualified to give advice but the obvious bit is that you should be familiar with whatever the sport/activity is so you can anticipate how the action will play out. If you're shooting a baseball game it could be tempting to just fire away at the only real action taking place at the moment (pitcher/batter matchup), but if there's a fast guy on first with a big lead, you want to anticipate the stolen base attempt or pick-off play. In sports there are certain shots that are only possible in certain scenarios, so don't squander those opportunities by shooting at the more mundane stuff. Compose your shots based on your anticipation of interesting plays that are likely to happen. Be sure to get action shots of player-on-player action, or at least with an opposing player in the frame. A tight composition of a player taking an uncontested shot is not all that interesting (there are exceptions, of course). Add a defender or two contesting that shot and you've got something much more compelling. This is tougher when players aren't in close proximity to each other during play (tennis, golf, etc.) but it still applies. You mentioned capturing expression and emotion and I think you're spot-on with that. A soccer player firing on goal from outside the box may only make the shot 1 out of 20 times, but if you just track the ball you'll miss those in-the-moment reactions. I would also look for opportunities to get in close (physically) with a wider lens during a break in the action. Flag football team huddling up? Maybe you could get in there for a shot with a wide angle held overhead. Obviously you don't want to interfere, but this could be a way to get a unique shot. Disclaimer: I'm not an experienced sports photographer and I'm probably complicating things for what seems like a very straightforward assignment. Don't let great be the enemy of good.
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Jun 21, 2019 17:36
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Perspective. Make sure to get low. The symbology of the athlete is to be revered so we aim up. Save eye level for portraits and stuff. You might have to do portraits. Wait in one spot for at least 10 minutes. Move around but dont always follow the action. Shoot with both eyes open. Helps reduce strain and lets you see more. Buy a camping stool or something. A little fold chair. Saves your knees for outdoor games. Or arenas Polarizer can be fun for outdoor shoots White balance indoors sucks. Lighting indoor sucks. My butt falls asleep sitting on hardwood. You get the idea. Find solutions. Shooting for defense means moving forward but shooting in. Do not keep the ball carrier in focus, they are just a player. The defender should be in focus. Everything else is secondary. Cheerleaders and Dance Teams appreciate photos too. Even if its not required. Same amount of work for them as athletes with 0 credit. Players also never get their photos. Unless they pay. You could change that and give someone something meaningful (if your bosses say ok) Cross promote your stuff. Send your stuff to the school newspaper and make sure it gets up on social media. Always always always do this. Your work is measured by the impact it receives. Make people fall in love with your school's athletes through your work. Try to capture the whole athlete. If you have to crop, avoid cropping at joints. 2 faces and a ball is the mantra. Break the rules if it works. For single action shots, make sure it says something. Someone with a mean mug face in a chardging run is visually more attractive than someone dribbling a ball looking off in space. Dont be afraid to slow down the shutter to try something new.
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Jun 22, 2019 20:05
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Thanks for the great advice!DJExile posted:What's the sport and what glass do you have on the way or have already? I'm still waiting on the shot list, but since it's an orientation funsies event I'm assuming there's going to be a few different sports running at the gym. Most likely there will be basketball and volleyball going on, both of which I'm well familiar with, and there might be some carnival style things as well. The glass I'm planning to bring is a 12-60mm Panaleica, a 100-400 Panaleica, Oly 8mm Fisheye, and a 25mm f/0.95 for if I need to do some outdoors photos since it's at night and I'm unsure of how much extra lighting will be present at the event. I'm missing the 120-200mm equivalent focal lengths but ehhhh it'll be fine.
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Jun 23, 2019 01:13
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I shot a local Strongman competition on the weekend. The lighting in there was amazing. Strips of skylight and a big open rollerdoor gave me an almost 19th century natural-skylight studio look. so nearly no post except bumping up the shadows on some. had to use -2/3 even -1 stop exposure compensation. Sorry for the photodump, really stoked with some of these. want to get a wider lens than my 50mm after shooting this. had a lots of fun. cant wait for the next comp with more interesting events to shoot like stones and truck pulls etc  stcomp2-1-134 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-118 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-115 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-114 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-106 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-107 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-105 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-103 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-100 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-99 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-95 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-91 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-83 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-82 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-73 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-58 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-50 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-35 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-23 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-22 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-21 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-18 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-14 by lxgrd, on Flickr stcomp2-1-9 by lxgrd, on Flickr
Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Jun 24, 2019 |
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Jun 24, 2019 13:10
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Those are ace. Lol at the guy who forgot to put his support bandage back on his arm to cover all the Nazi tattoos though.
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Jun 24, 2019 15:21
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Helen Highwater posted:Those are ace. Lol at the guy who forgot to put his support bandage back on his arm to cover all the Nazi tattoos though. what?
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Jun 24, 2019 18:03
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Dude in the green t-shirt. In the first two pictures, he's wearing support sleeves on his arm. Sure they have Valknut runes on them, but ok, there's often a lot of Norse iconography on Big Manly Men stuff. Then in one of the B&W shots later he isn't wearing them and you can see his Schwarzesonne tattoo. At which point he goes from 'a dude who might just be interested in Nordic poo poo' to 'a dude who has specific neo-Nazi symbology all over his forearm'.
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Jun 25, 2019 05:01
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Helen Highwater posted:Dude in the green t-shirt. In the first two pictures, he's wearing support sleeves on his arm. Sure they have Valknut runes on them, but ok, there's often a lot of Norse iconography on Big Manly Men stuff. Then in one of the B&W shots later he isn't wearing them and you can see his Schwarzesonne tattoo. At which point he goes from 'a dude who might just be interested in Nordic poo poo' to 'a dude who has specific neo-Nazi symbology all over his forearm'. Thanks for pointing it out. Couldnt tell what it signified.
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Jun 25, 2019 06:35
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 i dont know the guy at all but considering where hes from im guessing its misguided Tough Guy Tattoo LTD man stamps e: actually i just looked thru his Instagram and theres a small chance hey may have once been a nazi 
Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Jun 25, 2019 |
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Jun 25, 2019 07:46
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 Capoeira Kalmthout by roland luijken, on Flickr Capoeira Kalmthout by roland luijken, on Flickr Capoeira Kalmthout by roland luijken, on Flickr Capoeira Kalmthout by roland luijken, on Flickr Capoeira Kalmthout by roland luijken, on FlickrI was asked to shoot some photo's on a capoeira event by a friend. I usually don't make pictures of people outside my street photo's. I was not sure what to take with me so I brought a 85mm 1.8 lens, I think next time I will use an 70-210 zoom I had to crop the images to much of my liking. I had also an 50mm on a crop sensor camera with me what I didn't use. Strange thing is to get close to the people to make your shot was difficult for me while on the street I am more or less oke with it. I kept my distance that was a mistake. Also I lost focus a lot of time, I had the camera (D600) on AF-S (single servo focus) also single point. Maybe I should use D9 (9 focus points) or 3D next time?
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Jun 25, 2019 13:55
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Delete the 2nd and last one, blurry backs of people taking up the frame kinda wreck the photo. You'll probably wind up changing your focus points several times if you're moving around, and it's already going to be tough if you're indoors and dealing with bad light, which also means you'll probably need to shoot wide open to get enough light. E: You mentioned you need to get closer, you're right on that, I think that will help a lot right off the bat. Make sure you're not in the way but if you can find yourself a nice space to set up, that will help you out a lot.
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Jun 26, 2019 13:29
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Welp they liked my pictures and I've got a final interview on Tuesday. I spoke with their lead student photographer and he was saying 99% of the events save for these ones are all shot in the middle of the day or early afternoon, so the outdoors in street lighting stuff was mostly just a test. Here are the non posed shots, looking for any critique, especially since I'll be doing this more often now.      The last one had a lot of white space included for text, editorial stuff, articles, etc. Any advice on framing for those purposes?
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Jul 3, 2019 18:32
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Atlatl posted:Welp they liked my pictures and I've got a final interview on Tuesday. I spoke with their lead student photographer and he was saying 99% of the events save for these ones are all shot in the middle of the day or early afternoon, so the outdoors in street lighting stuff was mostly just a test. Your crops need some work. Also some moment selection. My critique: The first photo needs to have 2 faces and a ball. You have 2 faces but one is from someone far away. You have a duel so make it a duel. Dont forget, youre telling a story about a moment. What happened? Who are the characters? What comes next? The audience should be able to answer those questions, not photographers. Crop what confuses the audience out. Second photo isnt worth the edit. Sorry. Choose your moments. What about the photo do you connect to? Why is it good? Is it good enough to print? Why or why not? This is done during your culling process. Dont be afraid to change your mind about photos either. Foreground isnt as important as background. We want clear action. Only obfuscate it for effect. Like a goalie infront of a penalty kick. Yeah im talking about the light kit too. Foreground would help the fencing shot. Its fairly pedestrian. Like someobe could walk by and do a snapshot. The last one is the better of the bunch and would do well to see the subject looking ahead into that negative space. Or crop it so you have space where she is looking. That also means shooting closer if you can. Climbing photos are good foreground opportunities. Keep practicing! Dont take this as harsh, its not meant to be!
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Jul 3, 2019 22:51
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If you're shooting just for them to be posted, no words overlaid or anything: crop crop crop crop crop crop crop First picture, do what you can to cut out Texas shirt kid and engineering shirt kid. Delete the 2nd, it's just too busy. Fencing picture can be cropped at left fencer's elbow and right fencer's foot. The one sitting on the table is a distraction. Girl with the headset, you probably needed to be a bit more to your left so you didn't have the light/speaker stand in the shot like that. Climber picture is fine and honestly it's going to depend on what they want to put in there each time. You may want to ask them for other prints or shots they've done previously to see how much space you'll want to give above or below the subject. You've got good moments overall, exposure is pretty good, moments are solid.
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Jul 3, 2019 23:47
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Soulex posted:Keep practicing! Dont take this as harsh, its not meant to be! No worries, this is perfect! Most of the critique I'm getting is pretty soft so this is great. A lot of them I put up just because it met the requirement on the shot list even if I wasn't particularly happy with the shot, but it should be a good learning experience.
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Jul 4, 2019 00:18
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DJExile posted:Delete the 2nd and last one, blurry backs of people taking up the frame kinda wreck the photo. Thanks I will work on that. Also I will double check my camera, it was stuck on F1.8. I fixed now.
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Jul 4, 2019 10:25
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Staying as wide open as possible honestly isn't the worst idea, especially if you've got terrible light, like those two outdoor photos. Make sure your ISO is cranked well up too. Freezing human motion is going to need a speed of at least 1/500 if not more.
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Jul 5, 2019 15:01
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DJExile posted:Staying as wide open as possible honestly isn't the worst idea, especially if you've got terrible light, like those two outdoor photos. Make sure your ISO is cranked well up too. Freezing human motion is going to need a speed of at least 1/500 if not more. That DOF gonna be razor thin at 1.8.
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Jul 5, 2019 16:02
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Soulex posted:That DOF gonna be razor thin at 1.8. No doubt (although it depends on the focal length) but if you're shooting action outside at night, then you need all the help you can get, between cranking up your ISO and opening up the aperture as much as you can.
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Jul 5, 2019 17:53
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A great collection of some shots from the USWNT's celebration of the World Cup win
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Jul 8, 2019 15:52
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Soulex posted:That DOF gonna be razor thin at 1.8. From the distances you shoot from for sports, you'll have more than enough, and it'll actually help your subject separation. Most pros shoot 400 2.8 all the time. This is 135mm at f/2, for example:  2015-04-17_BVLax_LakotaW-v-Mariemont-004 by Nicholas Kneer, on Flickr
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Jul 8, 2019 16:13
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dakana posted:From the distances you shoot from for sports, you'll have more than enough, and it'll actually help your subject separation. Most pros shoot 400 2.8 all the time. This is 135mm at f/2, for example: This is true, but also could be harmful if you want a clearer image. I noticed a lot of blur around the edges of my photos, sometimes the legs would be out of focus while the face is sharp when wide open. Maybe this is a bigger issue for full-frame cameras than crop, I don't know. What I do know, is that moving a little bit to F3.2 or something helped keep the entire subject in focus. Sometimes my photo would have the chest in focus, and the face would be slightly blurry. There's a large room for possible error whereas F4 or similar could eliminate potential issues. I can upload some examples if needed. Soulex fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jul 9, 2019 |
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Jul 9, 2019 19:57
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Soulex posted:This is true, but also could be harmful if you want a clearer image. I noticed a lot of blur around the edges of my photos, sometimes the legs would be out of focus while the face is sharp when wide open. Maybe this is a bigger issue for full-frame cameras than crop, I don't know. What I do know, is that moving a little bit to F3.2 or something helped keep the entire subject in focus. Sometimes my photo would have the chest in focus, and the face would be slightly blurry. There's a large room for possible error whereas F4 or similar could eliminate potential issues. It really varies based on the lens. Some get really soft around the edges but sharp in center if you're wide open. Obviously depends too on where you're focusing, how far away you are, a lot of things. Now yeah, stopping down a bit can definitely give a better DOF, but when you're in crap lighting your first priority is doing what you can to get the shutter speed up and that often means a pretty wide open aperture. Maybe not fully, but close.
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Jul 9, 2019 20:45
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DJExile posted:It really varies based on the lens. Some get really soft around the edges but sharp in center if you're wide open. Obviously depends too on where you're focusing, how far away you are, a lot of things. Yeah. I agree. I guess I piped up because with my lens, it is definitely noticable and I feel like its ruined some otherwise good shots of mine. DoF is last priority, just want to make sure not ignored.
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Jul 9, 2019 22:50
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Soulex posted:This is true, but also could be harmful if you want a clearer image. I noticed a lot of blur around the edges of my photos, sometimes the legs would be out of focus while the face is sharp when wide open. Maybe this is a bigger issue for full-frame cameras than crop, I don't know. What I do know, is that moving a little bit to F3.2 or something helped keep the entire subject in focus. Sometimes my photo would have the chest in focus, and the face would be slightly blurry. There's a large room for possible error whereas F4 or similar could eliminate potential issues. Soulex posted:Yeah. I agree. I guess I piped up because with my lens, it is definitely noticable and I feel like its ruined some otherwise good shots of mine. DoF is last priority, just want to make sure not ignored. That could either be an issue with your lens being soft in the corners, or it could be a shutter speed issue if the legs are moving faster than the face (or in a different direction than your pan). It will be more pronounced for the same lens on a full-frame camera than it is on a crop sensor because the crop sensor uses a smaller portion of the image circle -- from the center, which is the typically the sharpest area of the lens. Upload some samples if you don't mind -- it might just be motion blur, or it could be softness with your lens. I've only ever had corner softness be pronounced and noticeable on my super cheap Tamron 17-35 2.8-4 on a full frame at 17mm and at 2.8, and on the 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 kit lens I had on my Digital Rebel XT in 2008.
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Jul 10, 2019 02:24
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Ok so the interview went well and I gotta fill out some paperwork, but I basically have the job. Remember how I said I didn't really get any critical feedback on the pics? Turns out none of the permanent professional staff in the communications division has any photography or videography experience, it's all marketing and graphic design. They're super nice folks though, but that means I basically need to rely on the two senior photo/video folks and you all for critiques. tl;dr im gonna be shittin up this thread real bad because I need to improve Also it's all project assignment based, with all the projects mapped out a month in advance, so I'll be like some weird underpayed independent contractor. I'm going to get to do some video b-roll work, but probably won't be doing any editing unless it's an emergency. The cool part is that nobody, even on the scholarship sports side, has come through with underwater gear like what I have, so I'm going to get to do some really cool shoots with all the water clubs.
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Jul 10, 2019 04:46
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dakana posted:That could either be an issue with your lens being soft in the corners, or it could be a shutter speed issue if the legs are moving faster than the face (or in a different direction than your pan). It will be more pronounced for the same lens on a full-frame camera than it is on a crop sensor because the crop sensor uses a smaller portion of the image circle -- from the center, which is the typically the sharpest area of the lens. Happens a lot in motorsport panning photos. If the car is coming around a corner, from the camera's perspective it is rotating in place and it makes getting points away from the center very hard to get sharp. Not always a problem though, the effect can be used creatively too!
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Jul 10, 2019 05:24
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Hooray! Football is back after some time off. Vålerenga Fotball - Kristiansund BK (1-1), 04.08.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - Kristiansund BK (1-1), 04.08.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - Kristiansund BK (1-1), 04.08.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - Kristiansund BK (1-1), 04.08.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr
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Aug 7, 2019 21:59
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That celebration one is fabulous
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Aug 9, 2019 18:11
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DJExile posted:That celebration one is fabulous I totally agree. I made a b/w conversion of the frame before:  Vålerenga Fotball - Kristiansund BK (1-1), 04.08.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr
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Aug 9, 2019 23:50
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I like the color one better. The B&W brings out the weird blur in the background and the white of the goal kinda distracts. I mean that's just picking nits, if I took either frame I'd be ecstatic. But since you got options it's okay to dump on one. 
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Aug 10, 2019 00:03
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so uh I learned about competitive log rolling today while shooting an event, also I'm now "that guy with the underwater camera" on the staff. Also happy to finally escape Facilities B-Roll Hell and start doing the stuff I got on for.
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Aug 27, 2019 02:51
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holy poo poo that's awesome, that would be a riot to shoot
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Aug 27, 2019 04:26
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Atlatl posted:so uh I learned about competitive log rolling today while shooting an event, also I'm now "that guy with the underwater camera" on the staff. Also happy to finally escape Facilities B-Roll Hell and start doing the stuff I got on for. Christ, that looks fun!
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Aug 27, 2019 12:40
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thanks! Log rolling was very cool and I want to shoot more of it. I'll be the aquatics guy I guess so at least I'll have access to all of that. I know I shouldn't compare myself to a dude with a 1DX who's getting his masters in photojournalism and has been shooting longer than I've owned even a gopro but having a hit rate like 1/4th of your coworker feels bad man  I do have some questions though, how do you deal with the lovely gloss wood laminate floors in indoors arenas? We have a large one here and I'm having a lot of trouble with three things: 1) reflection from the floors give a gross yellow underlight to anyone standing on them, 2) using a flash makes people look like cellulite monsters because of the striped reflection pattern, 3) the lights in there have a lot of dead time in between strobes and some weird colors, so high shutter speeds can be lit very strangely even with anti-flicker features on my camera. I can desaturate yellow hues in post a little bit, which helps, but I'd prefer to know a good way to deal with it other than in post.
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Aug 27, 2019 16:30
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Atlatl posted:thanks! Log rolling was very cool and I want to shoot more of it. I'll be the aquatics guy I guess so at least I'll have access to all of that. First off, don't worry about your hit rate. There are going to be games/events where he's not going to get poo poo and you'll get a bunch of good ones. There's so much out of your control with sports shooting that a lot of great shots are down to just dumb luck. RE: Glare: It's going to sound really silly but make sure you're using the hood on whichever lens you have, that will cut down on a good bit of it. And unfortunately you're gonna have to live with goofy colors (at least until post) to a certain degree because there's only so much your WB and anti-flicker can really do. Definitely helps to get lower as well, from what I've noticed. my dude dakana did a lot of basketball the last few years, I'll yell at him to give you some better tips than I just did.
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Aug 27, 2019 17:05
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