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I don't know what that line is but I threw a load of Aerohive AP230s in the bin (well, eBay) and replaced them with Aruba AP303s that were 1/3rd of the price and on paper are not as capable in terms of radio throughput and feature set but had nothing but positive feedback from users. Nobody cared that the Aerohive units can do really cool L3 roaming and in the right circumstances could move data quicker if they hosed their cloud platform for a month to the point where PPSK users could only authenticate successfully 20% of the time. By accident I also have a bunch of 2920, 2930 and 2530 switches and I'm really happy with it all.
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Jun 18, 2019 21:39
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ickna posted:It is worth the $50 for an ER-X imo. I have AT&T fiber and set their modem to DMZ the ER-X and have had no issues in the year that I have had it. I don’t do any of the auth spoofing packet stuff either. I'll keep it in mind if I hit any other limitations, thanks.
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Jun 18, 2019 21:45
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Ordered an ER-4 and will hopefully be able to get it up and running quickly. Guess I will stick to 1.x due to the various 2.x problems people are reporting. Gosh I hope this thing is stable. I will eventually do all the PC diagnostics (memtest, prime95, testing PSU, storage test, reseating things, etc) on the Qotom box once I find some time for that. High-stress/busy time for the next month or so; I just need my drat internet and VPN working reliably. It is for sure a good idea and I have not gone through that process yet. It's good to know others are not having stability issues with their Qotom setups. If the ER-4 works out as a gateway router, perhaps I will use the Qotom box as a dedicated OpenVPN and/or for SNMP monitoring of the ER-4 or something like that down the road.
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Jun 18, 2019 22:10
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ickna posted:It is worth the $50 for an ER-X imo. I have AT&T fiber and set their modem to DMZ the ER-X and have had no issues in the year that I have had it. I don’t do any of the auth spoofing packet stuff either. I'm curious what you get by doing DMZ mode with an ER-X? I've got an AT&T router and am using 2 uni-fi APs for wi-fi, but the router itself seems acceptable. I've got a good number of ports forwarded to different hosts and am not sure what I'm missing out on.
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Jun 19, 2019 03:18
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Twerk from Home posted:I'm curious what you get by doing DMZ mode with an ER-X? I've got an AT&T router and am using 2 uni-fi APs for wi-fi, but the router itself seems acceptable. I've got a good number of ports forwarded to different hosts and am not sure what I'm missing out on. You’re probably not missing out on much if you’ve already got their router set up like you want. I like the idea of owning as much of my own infrastructure as possible and if the AT&T modem dies or has to be swapped out for some reason it doesn’t take my LAN configuration with it, just plug something else into the WAN port and go. You can also configure it for multiple subnets and map the physical ports as such if you wanted to isolate IoT stuff or make a guest network. I do like the GUI better on the ERX for doing port forwarding and DHCP reservations. The throughput graph is also nice for getting an overview of utilization too. It also has no measurable impact on my speeds, I still get ~920 Mbps up and down which is pretty close to line speed after overhead if I recall. Twerk from Home posted:I'm curious what you get by doing DMZ mode with an ER-X? I've got an AT&T router and am using 2 uni-fi APs for wi-fi, but the router itself seems acceptable. I've got a good number of ports forwarded to different hosts and am not sure what I'm missing out on.
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Jun 19, 2019 21:35
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I got the ER-4 today! Thanks B&H for the free shipping being overnight to Boston area. It's pretty rad and I like it so far. I updated to v1.10.9 but holding off on 2.0.x for now. Setup wizard was kinda dumb and restrictive right away (couldn't select the SFP for for LAN) but after dismissing the wizard it was very easy to set up the basics. Making DHCP and DNS servers is logical and powerful. No problems routing gigabit vanilla, low overall CPU usage:  (I suppose that 18% could be 72% of a single core, though I assume the routing is offloaded and the CPU lift wouldn't be too single-CPU-thread intensive. Could dig deeper I suppose...) No problems w/ DPI enabled either, and DPI is pretty neat:    If only there were an option to save out all this awesome DPI data and track totals over time. Instead I think it's just in RAM. With smart queue enabled it looked more like this:  (highest result I got, it fluctuated from 450-600 ish)  So not a solution for gigabit throughput w/ a QoS queue but wasn't expecting that for $179 and I don't really need it enabled. I think I will use it just for upstream since mine is only 20Mbps - might actually benefit from QoS and won't hurt the CPU so it's so sad and small. The box itself is nice and the UI is straightforward and usable. Using SFP for the LAN switch uplink is rad, frees up an RJ45 on the switch. Would be great for long runs too but nifty just for that. Poked around the CLI and it's a linux system you can just run things on, which is cool. Next stop: OpenVPN and figuring out how to monitor bandwidth usage over time. admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 02:49
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You can export the DPI data, I cant remember off the top of my head how, but it can be done E: Google search says they are working on it, I may be wrong.
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Jun 20, 2019 03:32
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Yeah i don't think ERLs can export netflow data yet.
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Jun 20, 2019 03:40
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H2SO4 posted:Yeah i don't think ERLs can export netflow data yet. Nah, netflow's been supported for quite a while. It just eats up CPU time. https://support.auvik.com/hc/en-us/articles/210605806-How-to-enable-flow-on-your-Ubiquiti-router-AuvikFlow-Kentik-
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Jun 20, 2019 05:01
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H2SO4 posted:Yeah i don't think ERLs can export netflow data yet. Netflow, yes. I'm doing it right now.
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Jun 20, 2019 11:39
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admiraldennis posted:Next stop: OpenVPN and figuring out how to monitor bandwidth usage over time. Just a heads-up: OpenVPN on any edgerouter performs poorly. The Lite can't break 15mbps, and even the ER-4 has trouble topping 60mbps (and that might be high). If it's in any way an option, see if you can jump to wireguard or something. I haven't tried benchmarking ours in a lab or anything, but I'm getting 300mbps or so right now out of an active tunnel limited only by the WAN connection. edit: 300mbps on an ER-4 -- and my tunnel MTU is lower than it needs to be and I just haven't gotten around to fixing it yet. ComWalk fucked around with this message at 11:48 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 11:42
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They do sFlow as well and I'm having real problems with the data just being orders of magnitude wrong in PRTG. There's very little to configure though I am not sure where it's all going wrong. I'll configure another device to send sFlow data to PRTG and see if it's a PRTG thing or an EdgeRouter thing.
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Jun 20, 2019 11:42
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Just installed Google Wifi last night and am looking to replace the openVPN functionality I had on my old router so that I can remote in to my local network from my devices while away. I can run an openVPN server on one of my raspberry pi's (logically the one running pihole) and then forward the port to that to have the same effect, right? Just need to get a dyndns running so I don't to remember the IP and it should all effectively be the same as loaded on the router?
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Jun 20, 2019 13:27
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TraderStav posted:Just installed Google Wifi last night and am looking to replace the openVPN functionality I had on my old router so that I can remote in to my local network from my devices while away. I can run an openVPN server on one of my raspberry pi's (logically the one running pihole) and then forward the port to that to have the same effect, right? Just need to get a dyndns running so I don't to remember the IP and it should all effectively be the same as loaded on the router? You'll need a way for the local network devices to talk back to your remote clients, as with a openVPN tunnel the remote clients usually have a different network address to the local ones. Probably either by adding a static route to the Google Wifi router (if it lets you), or running NAT on the pi to give a local IP to your remote clients. At least, that's what I've had to do with my openVPN server running on a Ubiquiti ER-X behind my ISP router.
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Jun 20, 2019 13:57
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CrazyLittle posted:Nah, netflow's been supported for quite a while. It just eats up CPU time. Oh weird. Last time I looked into it on my ERL the node was there in the config wizard but wouldn't apply.
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Jun 20, 2019 14:08
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TraderStav posted:raspberry pi's (logically the one running pihole) and then forward the port to that to have the same effect, right? Just need to get a dyndns running so I don't to remember the IP and it should all effectively be the same as loaded on the router? If you've got all of your server side certs, perhaps. Not sure how. May be easier to redo it.
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Jun 20, 2019 14:47
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admiraldennis posted:
I have an er-4 too and the smart queue interface is garbage, the number you enter is off by a factor of 2, I have 500/20 but my smart queue is set to 900/25, just adjust by hand until you get full speed and an A+ in bufferbloat. Also install wireguard on your router https://github.com/Lochnair/vyatta-wireguard/releases I get a solid 30MB/s with wireguard on the er-4, openvpn gets under 5 MB/s. Perplx fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 15:20
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this is probably an easy question to answer that i'm overthinking. i'm going overseas in a couple weeks and was asked to pick up something that could improve the wifi in a family member's apartment. things i know: supposedly, they have an all-in-one modem/router from their ISP with no option to replace it - it's in a bedroom, and they get no signal in their kitchen (pretty small apartment). they also don't know or can't access the router settings at all. its in a 10 story apartment building with what i assume is crowded spectrum. they're also on 220v electricity, naturally. typical use is boomer internet stuff, i don't know that they do much streaming or whatever. i'd like to get an access point but i don't know if you can set those up without access to the router's settings. i'm also sick of thinking about this and i find the lack of info kind of frustrating. should i just get some well rated wireless repeater on amazon and hope for the best, or am i underestimating them and a 100 dollar AP is dumb overkill?
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Jun 20, 2019 20:03
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It sounds like you may be going to a different continent? I'd recommend buying a local equivilent of whatever you chose.
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Jun 20, 2019 20:10
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It seems weird that a small apartment has Wi-Fi issues tbh, unless it's an old 2.4Ghz-only router and the RF environment is horrific. There's no reason why a single box shouldn't provide perfectly usable web browsing quality Wi-Fi throughout a space like that.
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Jun 20, 2019 20:13
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Is there a custom firmware for the Netgear R7000 Nighthawk that won't crater the WAN-LAN switching speed (it already slows down if it has to do PPPoE on stock)? After multiple games have broken in the same way (empty routing table) I suspect UPnP isn't implemented right. I'm also open to buying a new router but don't need any fancy wireless antennae (small apartment); just something that works as advertised on >1Gbps fibre.
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Jun 21, 2019 03:42
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Thanks for the Wireguard tip, had never heard of it and will try it out!
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Jun 21, 2019 17:26
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Guys want to run a network cable from downstairs to upstairs. I really don’t want to have cables running outside the house to upstairs but if I have to I guess I could use the side of the house that doesn’t face the street simply because of esthetics. What cable should I use for outside? Should I cover it with one of those half circle metal rods (don’t know the name)? I have 2 rooms I want to get the wire to since my WiFi signal sucks upstairs but is perfect downstairs. This is mainly to get my son a strong signal on his computer and PlayStation.
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Jun 21, 2019 20:51
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Piggy Smalls posted:Guys want to run a network cable from downstairs to upstairs. I really don’t want to have cables running outside the house to upstairs but if I have to I guess I could use the side of the house that doesn’t face the street simply because of esthetics. What cable should I use for outside? Should I cover it with one of those half circle metal rods (don’t know the name)? I have 2 rooms I want to get the wire to since my WiFi signal sucks upstairs but is perfect downstairs. This is mainly to get my son a strong signal on his computer and PlayStation. There is outdoor and direct burial rated cat6 you could use that would be beefy enough, or you could have it run in conduit painted to match the house. I would definitely try to figure out a way to do it indoors if at all possible though. Surely there has to be some corner of a room or closet that you could go upstairs with a cable?
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Jun 21, 2019 21:16
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I previously had a pretty solid and sweet all-ubiqiti unifi setup, but have just moved apartment (rented so I can't mess with walls and drilling much) and have a couple of problems that I've tried to summarise in the diagram and below. Basically I just want to know how I should manage things so I have a good solid single network through my apartment without too much radio interference or the weird 'split network' currently in place. I also feel slightly pained that I am forced to swap my USG out for an all-in-one simply because the USG only has one LAN port ("WAN/LAN2" on the USG I understand is a different network so wouldn't act like a switch). Maybe having USG in the setup below is redundant and just an extra unnecessary hop? Constraints: 1. My place has 'pre-baked' hardware installed that is screwed into a network closet (Nighthawk) and ceiling duct (Netgear WAP) and can't be removed. There are no free power sockets that in the same closet so I can't plug in more things there, e.g. to turn the Nighthawk into a simple switch and move the router into the same closet. 2. The wifi signal doesn't travel well - I think due to the walls being reinforced concrete (maybe) and creating some sort of Faraday cage effect in each room that depletes signal strength pretty badly. The apartment is small , about 1000 sqft, so I can detect signal most places for both SSIDs, but I get weird errors and slow transmission (like 20kbps slow) if I'm too far away from one, and have to change to the 'other' SSID to improve things. The above is diagramised as best I could - the red colored hardware is the stuff I can't move because it is screwed in and takes all available power sockets. The blue is my bolted on previous gear. I don't know if I should make all the WAP SSIDs identical or if they will interfere with each other. Is there such a thing as having too many wireless APs in a small area? Like I said above the room walls seem to crush signal, but I can detect signal everywhere, I just start getting very slow transmission and weird errors like failed password when further away. The unifi AC Pros work great when combining to be the same SSID, but not sure if this means the Netgear WAPs would simply work if giving them the same SSID. 
headlight fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jun 22, 2019 |
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Jun 22, 2019 14:10
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my uncle is looking for a simple wireless router. i think he has like three devices—phone, desktop, and laptop. he’s choosing between the linksys ac1000 and the ac1750. i get the 1750 has more throughput, but is that necessary for his situation? it’s in a medium-sized apartment.
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Jun 24, 2019 00:03
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It really depends on distance between each device and the router, and the building materials used in the apartment's construction (due to interference). If the 1750 is only a few bucks more, might as well go for it.
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Jun 24, 2019 04:17
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Hey guys, I have an Archer C7 and an archer c50. I'm trying to create one wifi network with the same SSID for my parent's entire house, but for some reason I can't get it to work even though it feels like it should be very simple. Here's what i'm doing, please tell me where/how i am being a huge moron. The archer c7 is connected to the modem, and has internet access. DHCP is on. I have connected the two routers directly via Ethernet. LAN port on the C7 to the WAN port of the C50. DHCP is off on the C50. The WAN ip address is set outside the DHCP range of the C7. The gateway on the C50 is set to the ip of the C7. The c50 is set to a different channel on the 2.4 ghz network. If i have the SSID set to a different name, it works great, but as soon as I set the SSID to the same value, it stops working, and I can no longer access anything on the network. What am I missing? I took some screenshots just to be clear. e: gateway on the c7 is 192.168.11.1, i forgot i changed it after i took the picture archer c7 dhcp settings  archer c50 wan settings 
Argona fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jun 25, 2019 |
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Jun 24, 2019 23:19
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Argona posted:Hey guys, I have an Archer C7 and an archer c50. I'm trying to create one wifi network with the same SSID for my parent's entire house, but for some reason I can't get it to work even though it feels like it should be very simple. Here's what i'm doing Have you tried plugging the cable into the C50’s LAN port? My understanding is that you want to use the C50 as an AP and that’s easier when you don’t use the WAN port for it, as you may end up with double NAT if you don’t configure it correctly. e: also the 0.0.0.0 entries in your c7’s dhcp settings look strange to me eames fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Jun 25, 2019 |
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Jun 25, 2019 05:46
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Argona posted:I have connected the two routers directly via Ethernet. LAN port on the C7 to the WAN port of the C50. This is your problem. Make sure DHCP is disabled completely on the C7 and plug the uplink into a LAN port. Clients will associate to the C7's wireless network and receive DHCP from the C50.
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Jun 25, 2019 16:35
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So I broke something. My network setup is as follows: Arris cable modem with service from Spectrum -> Unmanaged 4 port gigabit switch -> connected to TPLink Archer c9 wifi router and my desktop computer I had this set up for a few weeks but wanted to move the wifi router to get better coverage in the house without having to buy a wifi extender. So I moved the router and it would broadcast a network but there would be no internet connection available. So after screwing with IP addresses in the router config I just unplugged everything in the network chain, reset the wifi router to factory default, and plugged everything back in. This got me internet access to the router but not my desktop says "Ethernet doesn't have a valid IP configuration". I've tried every solution on the first few pages of a google search and nothing. I did read a self-described engineer say that you can't connect a wifi router to a network switch, but I was doing it fine as of this morning with connectivity to both devices. Any ideas? Oh, I'm using this switch: https://www.amazon.com/Aumox-Ethern...lpcontext&psc=1 skylined! fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jun 27, 2019 |
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Jun 27, 2019 00:36
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The switch is upstream of your wireless router? Unless you have a combined modem/gateway, that's your problem.
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Jun 27, 2019 00:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:The switch is upstream of your wireless router? Unless you have a combined modem/gateway, that's your problem. It is; why would it have worked the last few weeks but no longer? OK so digging up more info that apparently I can't set up my network this way. Guessing either I wasn't looking at the wiring correctly or it was just flukey. I have another wifi router; could I go modem ->wifi router -> and have a second wifi router coming off the first with a switch? To extend my wifi coverage without buying a mesh/range extender? skylined! fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Jun 27, 2019 |
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Jun 27, 2019 00:47
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skylined! posted:It is; why would it have worked the last few weeks but no longer? It worked by luck. Spectrum - > router/wifi thing (WAN port) - > unmanaged switch or your other computer(LAN ports)
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Jun 27, 2019 02:55
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skylined! posted:It is; why would it have worked the last few weeks but no longer? Because you probably had it: Modem - > Switch - > Router - > PC Which technically would work because an unmanaged switch doesn't pull a DHCP lease - so the 1 lease the CMTS will release was available to the router
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Jun 27, 2019 05:55
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grymwulf posted:Because you probably had it: After a second thought I didn't even have the ethernet cable length to run to the wifi router from the modem (or switch) and then back to the switch pr PC. I was definitely running modem -> switch -> peripherals (pc, wifi router) and getting access on them all. Unless it is possible to run the router and other devices off the switch, I'll probably just move my modem to where I moved the router and use the ethernet line I ran to go from the router to the switch, and not vice versa.
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Jun 27, 2019 13:13
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I’ve had a similar setup and it has worked fine. Modem - Switch - Router (as AP) - Computer But then last week, it just went nuts and stopped working. I rebooted the router. Unplugged the switch when I noticed the lines had gone a constant green. I finally reset the quantum Fios gateway too, which turned on its wireless that was supposed to be off. Now, the router is plugged directly into the modem and the switch is also plugged into the modem. Things are working again. To change the subject, worrying about speed is a waste of time, right? I have FIOS gigabit, and while computers that are plugged directly into the modem have strong speed (~800 Mbps), my Netgear Nighthawk R6700v2 (which is Mediatek not Broadcom) can’t do more than 440 Mbps up/down on its Speedtest. My iMac (ancient 2009) only gets 250 Mbps via wired, but my iPhone XR gets like 310/400 on Speedtest. I thought this meant it was time to get a better router, but really, these are speeds that are in line with the Archers and stuff. I’m hardly gonna notice a difference, right?
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Jun 27, 2019 13:45
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You also have to remember that WiFi standards play a part in those speeds too, older standards won’t get close to your gigabit internet speed. Gigabit over wifi is something that can be done but you usually have to be within line of site with both really new WiFi router and WiFi equipment for your PC/laptop.
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Jun 27, 2019 17:21
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Google Wifi is only available here in the Philippines as part of a lock-in deal with an ISP, and I haven't seen any stores carrying Ubiquiti. What's the next best option? The ones I've seen in stores are Deco, Covr, Orbi, and Velop.
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Jun 28, 2019 03:25
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So, not technically networking gear, but network adjacent. My 1U cyberpower UPS died last night, not the battery capacity or anything, just its ability to power any electronics. It was reading 90V output when in the rack, but once I dismantled it out if the rack and tried plugging it into the wall, it now won't come on at all (just a beep and a blank screen). It was five years old, which isn't a bad run by any means, but I would have hoped for better based on it just being power electronics. Since I'm in the market for a new one, does anyone have any guidance? The cyberpower ones still seem well reviewed so I'm inclined to just do the same again and hope I get more time out of it.
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Jun 28, 2019 04:07
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