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I. M. Gei posted:I don稚 post a lot in AI and I知 not sure where else to ask this. You have a million options. Anything by the big names like Yakima or Thule will be fine. I prefer crossbars with the T slot for mounting attachments but not all attachments work with that setup out of the box and you'll have to modify some of them. What specific attachment style you'll want will depend on the type of kayak.  Something like that works great for a more traditional sit in kayak.  J racks like that work great with any type of kayak and let you mount more than one.  And if it's a sit on top kayak like my fishing kayak you can realistically get away with just laying it upside down on the cross bars.
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Jun 21, 2019 18:24
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Elysium posted:Since I'm sure everyone is just Yeah, if the seller is game that's the easiest thing to do. Not sure how that works out if you get into an accident on the way back - seems like the kind of thing a scumbag insurance company would deny.
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Jun 21, 2019 20:07
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ing over here. The seller, without me prompting him, suggested I use his plate to drive home, and so I put the car on insurance and drove home (through some crazy rainstorms where no cops were gonna be stopping anyone anyway).
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The Jabberwocky posted:Yeah, that was the first question I asked, and my wife can't think of a time she's had to panic brake, especially enough that it would do that kind of damage. Wouldn't at least one other tire have similar damage if that was the case, too? She could have damaged one or more belts in that tire when hitting the pot hole. Continentals (which is basically what your tire is) are known for easily slipping belts and deforming the tire. Have you had a shop throw the rim onto a balancer yet to see if she bent it? Furthermore, you will need to replace all 4 if your tires are not within 3 32nds of an inch from new. I believe the generals are like 10.5 when new. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jun 21, 2019 |
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Jun 21, 2019 20:13
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bobbilljim posted:Hi AI, I just took one out of our Land Cruiser we just got in from Japan and someone bought it for $50 bucks. Maybe not in NZ but there is a market for them in the USA.
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Jun 21, 2019 22:18
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Preoptopus posted:Furthermore, you will need to replace all 4 if your tires are not within 3 32nds of an inch from new. I believe the generals are like 10.5 when new. you can get a new tire shaved down to match the others. E.g., The Jabberwocky posted:Yeah, the tire will get replaced for sure. I'm debating on whether to replace all of them of get one and have tire reack shave it down to match the others, which seem to be in good shape. One thing, Jabberwocky: sometimes you can get a partial credit on a tire that fails, under its warranty. I had a tire develop a sidewall blister and I got like a 20% credit on the replacement because it had 20% wear left and I'd bought at the place I took it to for service. Granted you may have damaged this tire in an "accident" but if it's a slipped belt or something and the tire place doesn't know that they might be willing to process it as a defect replacement.
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Jun 21, 2019 22:24
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Motronic posted:Yeah, if the seller is game that's the easiest thing to do. Not sure how that works out if you get into an accident on the way back - seems like the kind of thing a scumbag insurance company would deny. As far as I know every major insurance company in the US gives you the broadest coverage on your policy for any newly purchased vehicles for 30 days. After 30 days it depends if the vehicle is a replacement or additional vehicle, but as long as you get it sorted in 30 days you're good.
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Jun 22, 2019 01:42
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Someone with more experience with automatics: Car is a 2000 Toyota with 173,000 miles and a poo poo service history I brought the car to a halt at a red light. The car juddered while stopped in D I shifted into N, juddering ceased I shifted back into D, juddering started again but milder. As I took off from the light, car was lurching despite constant accelerator pedal After 100 or so yards it wasn't lurching, but I pulled straight over anyway and am now posting this. I don't think I heard the engine was hunting for revs, so I'm wondering if it's a gearbox/whatever it's called on an auto problem maybe? This is my first automatic car, really not sure what's up. It's had a first gear whine and overdrive doesn't work since ever I bought it
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Jun 22, 2019 02:57
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Kasumeat posted:I've never owned a car in my life, but I need to buy one that will last me one or two years, and a campervan makes sense for my current situation (for 2-4 night trips, not living in it). I'm inquiring about a 1997 Mitsubishi Delica and received the following reply: This is from a few pages back but I thought I might throw my hat into the ring because I live in Australia and I've actually been looking at buying a Delica of similar age. Have been doing a bit of research and lurking the Delica Owners Australia group on FB for a few months. That generation of Delica was only imported grey market, but parts/someone willing to work on it should not be too hard to come by. They share many parts with Mitsus that were sold dealer new here, and there are Delica specialists in most states who can source anything else. The aforementioned FB group is also a great source of information and spare parts - on the whole Australian FB communities around specific cars/bikes seem to be a great resource. The general consensus on Deli's and the L400 model in particular is that if they have been well maintained they can be very reliable, but they do not tolerate neglect well - a cheap one will likely be a money pit. This is Car Logic 101 but Delica owners seem to be particularly vocal about it. Replacing the stock radiator with one more suited for Australia's higher temps is also considered a must, especially if you plan on hitting the desert. Bottom line: if you don't need 4WD you can likely find something cheaper and more reliable. It sounds like you're here for work rather than backpacking and thus probably have a decent budget: I would recommend buying a decent Hiace as those are both very reliable and hold their value to an unbelievable extent. For 2-4 night trips, I'd also consider a rooftop tent on a wagon or SUV. It's a lot nicer than using a ground based tent; simple setup, comfortable mattress, up high so don't have to worry about visits from wildlife in the middle of the night, etc. Fuel economy and acceleration will suffer a bit though. I fell in love with the dumb things (Delicas) and want one anyways, but my budget and local market aren't good, so I'm not sure I'll ever get around to buying one. I had toyed with the idea of bringing over a low-km one from Japan as people are asking eye-watering prices for pretty clapped out ones in Australia, but with the campervan loophole closing on 1 July that seems unlikely. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jun 22, 2019 |
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Jun 22, 2019 03:36
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Sanity check, 04 IS300, brakes fine at first then brake power tapers off as the car gets close to stopping and the pedal gets hard. I figure it must be the brake booster leaking, but only when pressed down. Hook up OBD scanner, press brakes down at idle and STFT maxes out, let off and it returns to the normal 1-2%. Hold brakes down and shut the car off, pedal immediately pushes my foot up to almost no travel. Anyone want to say 'yes, you have the right idea'?  
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Jun 22, 2019 04:07
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Yes, all of that sounds like a booster failure.
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Jun 22, 2019 06:47
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Trying to decide if I should/need to change the front control arms and tie tods while overhauling the suspension on my 2009 car. 10 years should mean wear and tear on rubber, but what method would you guys use to test or "prove" the wear? I'm leaning towards just doing it as I'm getting the car aligned when done, and it feels a bit pointless to blow $120 on an alignment just to change the control arms later. Magnetti Marelli control arms cost like $50 a side.
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Jun 22, 2019 09:24
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BlackMK4 posted:04 IS300, brakes fine at first then brake power tapers off as the car gets close to stopping and the pedal gets hard. I figure it must be the brake booster leaking, but only when pressed down. Hook up OBD scanner, press brakes down at idle and STFT maxes out, let off and it returns to the normal 1-2%. Hold brakes down and shut the car off, pedal immediately pushes my foot up to almost no travel. Anyone want to say 'yes, you have the right idea'? Yeah definitely a leaking booster, just failed in such a way that it's only leaking while braking. I've had one fail like that, the others failed in the more typical high idle/loud hissing/hard pedal all the time way.
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Jun 22, 2019 14:43
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simplefish posted:Someone with more experience with automatics: I would guess bad solenoid somewhere, maybe low trans pressure. Have you checked your fluid level? (Trans fluid has to be checked warm, after either a short drive or going through the gears a few times with the engine still running.) As for the overdrive it might be the trans but in Toyota of that vintage if the temp sensor isn't detecting the car is warm it won't allow it into overdrive.
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Jun 22, 2019 14:44
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Went and changed my oil on my 3rd gen Tacoma. I am new to the cartridge filters and my torque wrench acted up and I over torqued the filter drain and the filter housing. For some reason the clicker never clicked. I tried to back it off a bit and the filter wrench cracked in half. My plan was to back it off a hair when the replacement wrench arrives. Taking the filter off initially was a bear too fwiw. Anything else I should try or consider?
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Jun 22, 2019 16:32
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Delica stuff Thanks for the really in-depth reply. I'm in WA and I've heard that a lot of the nicest spots here absolutely require 4WD, so that's a big consideration, though not an absolute must. To be honest I'm starting to lean more towards just getting a small-to-mid-size SUV. It's more practical for any city driving that I have to do, and finding parking near my apartment could be a big challenge for a larger vehicle. And as many have helpfully pointed out, with my complete lack of mechanical knowledge and plans to go to relatively remote areas, something more recent and low-maintenance really does make sense. Could you explain what you mean about the campervan loophole?
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Jun 22, 2019 17:11
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STR posted:Yeah definitely a leaking booster, just failed in such a way that it's only leaking while braking. IOwnCalculus posted:Yes, all of that sounds like a booster failure. Thank you both  Best part is a new OEM one is like $800 and the remans are out of stock from Autozone, NAPA, and CSK Auto so the only option is finding a used one. Time to figure out how to search pick n pulls for a certain car.
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Jun 22, 2019 17:31
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The actual company Pick n Pull has a pretty decent search system (just don't use it to cross reference parts across different models, or even years - only use it to look up your car by year/make/model and know what years fall into the same generation). LKQ's is decent as well (with the same caveats). Both will tell you if a specific car is on the lot, where it's located, and generally an exterior photo. I know PnP gives VIN as well, I don't remember if LKQ does. row52 would probably be a good resource to check most of the self service yards in your area, if they participate. Upside is that's something that rarely fails on a Lexus, so in theory it'll be a one time job.
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Jun 22, 2019 17:55
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This row52 thing is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! Looks like there are two on a lot in Phoenix, one being an 01 and the other being an 05. Checking the VIN on the 01 says it uses a brake booster that is for 00-7/01 cars, and the 05 is good for 07/01 - end of production. Hopefully the booster is left on the 05, guess I will throw some poo poo in a bag and head up there.
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Jun 22, 2019 18:08
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STR posted:Holy poo poo, a car I'm actually REAL familiar with! Still crunchy. It worked once and I was real thrilled, then it went right back to where it was. Real inconsistent too. Sometimes it's got enough drag to move the car around effortlessly and sometimes it won't move at all. Every once in a while, it's butter smooth. Looks like throwout bearing replacement time (and clutch, just because). I'm not doing that myself, so off to the shop.
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Jun 22, 2019 18:38
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Change the gearbox oil as a last resort. It takes plain old 10w30 engine oil (seriously), though Honda MTF also works (it just costs 10x as much). But yeah, if that doesn't do it... throwout bearing time. 
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Jun 22, 2019 19:05
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fknlo posted:You have a million options. Anything by the big names like Yakima or Thule will be fine. I prefer crossbars with the T slot for mounting attachments but not all attachments work with that setup out of the box and you'll have to modify some of them. What specific attachment style you'll want will depend on the type of kayak. Would this be okay for a single 10 57-lb sit-on fishing kayak, on a small SUV with side rails but no crossbars?  I知 assuming no because it痴 cheap, but the Thule crossbars are >$400 not even including the kayak holders, so I wanted to check. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jun 22, 2019 |
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Jun 22, 2019 19:42
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I. M. Gei posted:Would this be okay for a single 10 57-lb sit-on fishing kayak, on a small SUV with side rails but no crossbars? Don稚 buy new crossbars. They池e all over CL for super cheap.
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Jun 22, 2019 20:19
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I. M. Gei posted:Would this be okay for a single 10 57-lb sit-on fishing kayak, on a small SUV with side rails but no crossbars? I wouldn't personally run something like that, but plenty of people do without any real issues. big crush on Chad OMG posted:Don’t buy new crossbars. They’re all over CL for super cheap. Yeah, I wouldn't spend that much on crossbars. Craigslist would be fine and there might be much cheaper factory options as well.
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Jun 22, 2019 20:24
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BlackMK4 posted:This row52 thing is exactly what I was looking for, thank you!  
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Jun 22, 2019 21:17
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Lol RIP. Sorry dude.
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Jun 22, 2019 21:37
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plug the vacuum hose for the leaky booster and start working out
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Jun 22, 2019 21:41
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I wouldn't really care, but it will be a beater for my sister once I get this replaced  The fuckin stupid thing is it seems like most cars have what looks like a fairly standard booster with variation in mounting, vac source side, and overall volume. It is too bad someone hasn't built a cross reference tool, though I guess it wouldn't get too much use.
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Jun 22, 2019 21:42
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einTier posted:Well, I put a new cable in. Adjusted it. Readjusted it. Missed your comment about needing a little slack and adjusted the ever living gently caress out of it. It's way past finger tight and my finger tight is pretty drat absurd. I used tools to move it a few additional turns. Well, poo poo. At least that was the cheaper option, and with how old it was it ain't a lick amiss.
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Jun 22, 2019 23:10
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Autoexec.bat posted:I would guess bad solenoid somewhere, maybe low trans pressure. Have you checked your fluid level? (Trans fluid has to be checked warm, after either a short drive or going through the gears a few times with the engine still running.) As for the overdrive it might be the trans but in Toyota of that vintage if the temp sensor isn't detecting the car is warm it won't allow it into overdrive. Thanks for the reply I checked the ATF fluid before, I'll have another look The overdrive, the engine gets up to temperature and the gauge in the dash rises and stays to the middle of its travel. Woukd there be a different sensor on the transmission?
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Jun 22, 2019 23:15
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Kasumeat posted:Thanks for the really in-depth reply. I'm in WA and I've heard that a lot of the nicest spots here absolutely require 4WD, so that's a big consideration, though not an absolute must. If you have the budget, get a Landcruiser - like the Toyota vans they hold their value to an insane degree. Campervan loophole probably wouldn't have interested you anyways, but: Basically there are/were much more lax restriction on importing vans from overseas if you are converting them to a camper. A lot of Delicas, Hiaces, Elgrands, etc were imported here under the scheme but IIRC the government basically never followed up on whether you actually did the conversion and few people did, so it's been amended that the vehicle has to have been a campervan from the factory. We are also getting a rolling 25 year exemption like the US has (supposedly), which is both good and bad as although it opens up a lot of new stuff, we'll now be competing with deep-pocketed American buyers on everything.
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Jun 22, 2019 23:41
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BlackMK4 posted:I wouldn't really care, but it will be a beater for my sister once I get this replaced It's probably used on more than one Toyota. Check aara.com, most of those aren't you-pull-it lots but they let you search on the part itself instead of just the vehicle and hoping the part you want is there / not ruined.
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Jun 23, 2019 00:37
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I agree, just difficult to figure out what Toyota will share the same master cylinder piston size, booster volume, and linkage length without have it in front of me to play with. I failed at cross referencing OEM part numbers and major replacement part numbers. Found some dude parting one on CL that is going to give me a price shipped on Monday, worst case I pay the price gougers on eBay that want $300 shipped for one. Next best case, I'm going to call this place on Monday http://www.pwrbrake.com/inventory/1....0%2Fcyl%2F6%2F Seems like they rebuild them and their price is pretty cheap in comparison to buying a used one.
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Jun 23, 2019 03:02
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BlackMK4 posted:I agree, just difficult to figure out what Toyota will share the same master cylinder piston size, booster volume, and linkage length without have it in front of me to play with. I failed at cross referencing OEM part numbers and major replacement part numbers. ... go to Rockauto and price one there, then use the info link to see what it crosses with? simplefish posted:The overdrive, the engine gets up to temperature and the gauge in the dash rises and stays to the middle of its travel. Woukd there be a different sensor on the transmission? That year model probably uses two engine temp sensors. One is just for the gauge, the other tells the computer how warm the engine is. You said you have a way to pull OBD2 data, right? check to see what the engine temp is. It should start using overdrive once it gets over 150F, IIRC.
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Jun 23, 2019 14:47
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STR posted:... go to Rockauto and price one there, then use the info link to see what it crosses with?
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Jun 23, 2019 17:43
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BlackMK4 posted:I tried that, there were none, along with both options being out of stock Just tossing out random thoughts...did you try looking this up via Napa and getting a few numbers from it?
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Jun 23, 2019 18:30
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C-Bangin' it 
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Went and changed my oil on my 3rd gen Tacoma. I am new to the cartridge filters and my torque wrench acted up and I over torqued the filter drain and the filter housing. For some reason the clicker never clicked. I tried to back it off a bit and the filter wrench cracked in half. My plan was to back it off a hair when the replacement wrench arrives. Taking the filter off initially was a bear too fwiw. Anything else I should try or consider? Are you using a specific toyota filter cup? with a 27mm half inch socket and wratchet? Worst case is you crack the housing and have to buy a new one at this point. For future reference a filter cup is no different than a regular canister filter. Snug will do. you dont gotta go all spec about it.
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Jun 23, 2019 18:35
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Preoptopus posted:Are you using a specific toyota filter cup? with a 27mm half inch socket and wratchet? Worst case is you crack the housing and have to buy a new one at this point. For future reference a filter cup is no different than a regular canister filter. Snug will do. you dont gotta go all spec about it. I got the new filter wrench and borked it up good. Tried to back the housing off a tiny bit and immediately cracked one of the fins off and oil started running out of the housing onto my driveway. Put down a drip pan and considered a tow. Then tried wedging a paper towel between the filter housing and the wrench and eventually it loosened. Then I had to call around at 8 pm on Saturday evening and found an in stock aluminum aftermarket housing at AutoZone. Bought that, swapped my filter element, lubed up the new o rings and got it snug, but in spec and topped off the 1/2 qt of oil that drained when I cracked the old housing. I don't know if I should buy a replacement OEM filter housing or just stick with the aftermarket one.
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Jun 23, 2019 19:19
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Must be somewhat of an "issue" if autozone has some aftermarket replacement for it. Was it Dorman branded?
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Jun 23, 2019 20:53
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Colostomy Bag posted:Must be somewhat of an "issue" if autozone has some aftermarket replacement for it. Was it Dorman branded? Yeah. Tacomaworld had enough recent anecdotes of others breaking the OEM part that I feel somewhat better.
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Jun 23, 2019 21:15
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Yeah. Tacomaworld had enough recent anecdotes of others breaking the OEM part that I feel somewhat better. lmao Dorman does it again!
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Jun 23, 2019 21:19
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