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charliebravo77
Jun 11, 2003

jarlywarly posted:

I cannot find the Rosco materials in the UK are there any equivalents?

You should be able to find them at any theatre/scenic lighting supply shop: https://shop.centraltheatresupplies.co.uk/lighting-filter-or-gel-10-c.asp (I don't see #3026 listed but I'm sure they can get it)

LEE Filters will also have an equivalent diffusion gel to Rosco http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/diffusion-list.html https://batchgeo.com/map/468b13d2332078799f8f729971bababe?i=468b13d2332078799f8f729971bababe&q=united+kingdom

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Graniteman
Nov 16, 2002

jarlywarly posted:

re the Canon MP-E 65mm

The jumping spider was taken at around 2x af f/11 I find that's around the limit at 2x


That sounds about right.

For anyone who doesn’t know, the diffraction limiting aperture depends on the pixel pitch of your specific camera. Consider that a point light source going through a mathematically perfect lens gets diffracted into a blurred circle (google “circle of confusion”). The smaller the lens aperture the bigger the CoC. At some point the CoC is big enough to overlap with adjacent sensor elements (pixels) and so you can now see that it is blurred if you are pixel peeping at 100%. So, the smaller the pixels on your image sensor the sooner you will start to see diffraction blurring as you stop down the lens.

There are a couple of different ways to calculate it, but one can do it, and it turns out that for my Canon 5D III with a full frame 24MP sensor, a 100% zoomed image becomes diffraction limited at f/14.3. So I shoot 1:1 at f/14. If I’m shooting at 2:1 in the field I tend to shoot f/11 or f/8. If I’m focus stacking on a rail I have a table I calculated where I get my step sizes and apertures. But at 5:1 I’m already diffraction limited at f/2.8 so I shoot wide open. If I don’t want to shoot wide open and make a lot of steps in the focus stack I just shoot at less magnification and then crop and it ends up with the same image quality.

Of course, if you are not pixel peeping or printing at huge sizes, pixel perfection doesn’t matter so just shoot at diffraction limited apertures that give you a workable DOF and get on with your day :) I know of an excellent photographer who teach classes on macro, and they shoot at f/22. You’d never know it from looking at their work on the internet. Of course, they burn up their flash batteries, have slower flash recycles, and can’t crop aggressively without loss of quality. But if your output medium is social media, gently caress it, f/22 is a perfectly fine way to shoot. You can calculate the diffraction limiting aperture based on the output size instead of the image sensor dot pitch and come up with a totally different number than what I put above.

And about rosco alternative, I have no idea. Looks like there are similar diffusion gels so try that out. I’ve spent many hundreds of dollars on diffuser setups and I don’t think there’s anything better than that polymer sheet stuff. One can do good work with anything, but the gels are just the most durable, flexible, neutral toned, most light transmissive yet diffusing, and just most appropriate for my kind of field shooting. I’ve used milk jugs and yogurt jars, cut up plastic light diffuser from ceiling lights, custom cut plastics from a TAP plastics store, tracing paper inside of a clear plastic binder sheet, laminated tracing paper, commercial cup diffusers that clip onto MT-24EX flash heads, cardboard/foil/paper/tape constructs of all kinds. Just on and on really. I recommend anyone build the diffuser that works for their specific wants, but using this kind of polymer based diffuser gel is just such a great material to include in your build.

Graniteman fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jun 20, 2019

Helen Highwater
Feb 19, 2014

And furthermore
Grimey Drawer
I'm thinking of the Canon 100mm f/2.8 (the non-L version). Is it ok? I want to try shooting bugs handheld to start with and maybe some still-life macro stuff on a tripod. Is there a better option for long-ish macro on a Canon without dropping a grand on glass I won't use that often?

Fingers McLongDong
Nov 30, 2005

not eromenos
Fun Shoe

Helen Highwater posted:

I'm thinking of the Canon 100mm f/2.8 (the non-L version). Is it ok? I want to try shooting bugs handheld to start with and maybe some still-life macro stuff on a tripod. Is there a better option for long-ish macro on a Canon without dropping a grand on glass I won't use that often?

I got one because I wanted to learn macro stuff without spending a grand and it's been good for me. I think I got one for $200 online. It was recommended everywhere I looked online for budget macro. The motor can be a little slow but honestly I've had it on manual most of the time anyway so I dont care. It's been a great learning tool and has worked well for me.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Helen Highwater posted:

I'm thinking of the Canon 100mm f/2.8 (the non-L version). Is it ok? I want to try shooting bugs handheld to start with and maybe some still-life macro stuff on a tripod. Is there a better option for long-ish macro on a Canon without dropping a grand on glass I won't use that often?

You can look at the Sigma 105 and the Tamron 90mm macros as well.

https://www.wexphotovideo.com/sigma-105mm-f28-macro-ex-dg-os-hsm-canon-fit-1524157/
https://www.wexphotovideo.com/tamron-90mm-f28-sp-di-usd-vc-macro-lens-canon-fit-1593169/

Non L Canon 100mm has no IS.

Fingers McLongDong
Nov 30, 2005

not eromenos
Fun Shoe

Yeah not having IS has really forced me to learn how to be stable, take lots of shots, and use my gorillapod lol. What's that old adage about getting good with more basic equipment so you can appreciate the nicer equipment?

That said, the Tamron seems like an appealing upgrade between the 100mm canon and the 65mm so I might look into it myself.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Graniteman posted:

That sounds about right.

For anyone who doesn’t know, the diffraction limiting aperture depends on the pixel pitch of your specific camera. Consider that a point light source going through a mathematically perfect lens gets diffracted into a blurred circle (google “circle of confusion”). The smaller the lens aperture the bigger the CoC. At some point the CoC is big enough to overlap with adjacent sensor elements (pixels) and so you can now see that it is blurred if you are pixel peeping at 100%. So, the smaller the pixels on your image sensor the sooner you will start to see diffraction blurring as you stop down the lens.

There are a couple of different ways to calculate it, but one can do it, and it turns out that for my Canon 5D III with a full frame 24MP sensor, a 100% zoomed image becomes diffraction limited at f/14.3. So I shoot 1:1 at f/14. If I’m shooting at 2:1 in the field I tend to shoot f/11 or f/8. If I’m focus stacking on a rail I have a table I calculated where I get my step sizes and apertures. But at 5:1 I’m already diffraction limited at f/2.8 so I shoot wide open. If I don’t want to shoot wide open and make a lot of steps in the focus stack I just shoot at less magnification and then crop and it ends up with the same image quality.

Of course, if you are not pixel peeping or printing at huge sizes, pixel perfection doesn’t matter so just shoot at diffraction limited apertures that give you a workable DOF and get on with your day :) I know of an excellent photographer who teach classes on macro, and they shoot at f/22. You’d never know it from looking at their work on the internet. Of course, they burn up their flash batteries, have slower flash recycles, and can’t crop aggressively without loss of quality. But if your output medium is social media, gently caress it, f/22 is a perfectly fine way to shoot. You can calculate the diffraction limiting aperture based on the output size instead of the image sensor dot pitch and come up with a totally different number than what I put above.

And about rosco alternative, I have no idea. Looks like there are similar diffusion gels so try that out. I’ve spent many hundreds of dollars on diffuser setups and I don’t think there’s anything better than that polymer sheet stuff. One can do good work with anything, but the gels are just the most durable, flexible, neutral toned, most light transmissive yet diffusing, and just most appropriate for my kind of field shooting. I’ve used milk jugs and yogurt jars, cut up plastic light diffuser from ceiling lights, custom cut plastics from a TAP plastics store, tracing paper inside of a clear plastic binder sheet, laminated tracing paper, commercial cup diffusers that clip onto MT-24EX flash heads, cardboard/foil/paper/tape constructs of all kinds. Just on and on really. I recommend anyone build the diffuser that works for their specific wants, but using this kind of polymer based diffuser gel is just such a great material to include in your build.

i think I found it

https://www.10outof10.co.uk/acatalog/Rosco_Cinegel___Roscolux.html

Bubbacub
Apr 17, 2001

Graniteman posted:

Personally I find more than 2:1 to be impractical in the field for hand held shooting, and 1:1 is often too close for bigger subjects. I wish there was a 0.5:1-2:1 magnification lens with electronic aperture control. That’s my dream lens. There’s a venus 2:1 lens but it’s got manual aperture so the view would be dark as hell while focusing if stopped down to shooting aperture.

There's a brand new Laowa 100mm macro that does infinity down to 2:1 with electronic aperture control. I preordered mine before release, but I'm still waiting for delivery.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

Fingers McLongDong posted:

Plus the thread is kinda dead.
Here's a couple recent ones that worked for different reasons


50mm and extension tubes, flash bounced off a 4x6 index card. Stack of 3.


18-270 at 270 and a Raynox 150, flash through 6 inch folding softbox. Stack of 5.

Liking and appreciating the affordable lens, DoF and diffuser talk.

What do I need to to do get better sharpness?

joat mon fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jun 21, 2019

Infinite Karma
Oct 23, 2004
Good as dead





joat mon posted:

Here's a couple recent ones that worked for different reasons


50mm and extension tubes, flash bounced off a 4x6 index card. Stack of 3.


18-270 at 270 and a Raynox 150, flash through 6 inch folding softbox. Stack of 5.

Liking and appreciating the affordable lens, DoF and diffuser talk.

What do I need to to do get better sharpness?
These are great, awesome framing of the focal plane combined with the flea (it's a flea, right?) in the first one. But these are staged with dead critters, right? I can't imagine it's possible to do a focus stack on live bugs?

These look sharp at screen resolution, but if you're pixel peeping, are you also using an off-camera trigger and a 2-second shutter delay to minimize camera shake?

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

Infinite Karma posted:

These are great, awesome framing of the focal plane combined with the flea (it's a flea, right?) in the first one. But these are staged with dead critters, right? I can't imagine it's possible to do a focus stack on live bugs?

These look sharp at screen resolution, but if you're pixel peeping, are you also using an off-camera trigger and a 2-second shutter delay to minimize camera shake?

Thanks!
The first one is a planthopper nymph.
The fly is dead, but the planthopper and spider were very much alive and very much moving. The shots were handheld with fixed focus and 'pushing' the focus through the scene. The lens is resting on my left hand which is resting on the fencewire/deck rail.
I got 3 good stacks of the planthopper from 40 ish pictures taken. The spider was probably 350 shots to get 6 decent stacks.

When I get a subject that stays relatively still, like crab spiders or ambush bugs I'll use a tripod and a manual focus rack to build stacks. When I use a flash I don't see any difference between a 2 second delay+hands off vs. just smoothly pressing the shutter button.

joat mon fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Jun 21, 2019

Graniteman
Nov 16, 2002

Bubbacub posted:

There's a brand new Laowa 100mm macro that does infinity down to 2:1 with electronic aperture control. I preordered mine before release, but I'm still waiting for delivery.

Very interesting! I’ll keep an eye on that for sure. The working distance look about twice my mpe65 which is not ideal for lighting, and I worry about dirt intrusion but that lens looks really promising for me. I bring my 65mm and 100mm in the field just to get the 0.1-2:1 range that this lens covers so this would let me drop a lens. I’d sell my 100mm L and get this one if it is as advertised.

Do you know if you can put a UV filter on the front to cover that big cavity at low magnification? Or are the filter threads on the inner element? I can’t tell from photos.

Bubbacub
Apr 17, 2001

Graniteman posted:

Very interesting! I’ll keep an eye on that for sure. The working distance look about twice my mpe65 which is not ideal for lighting, and I worry about dirt intrusion but that lens looks really promising for me. I bring my 65mm and 100mm in the field just to get the 0.1-2:1 range that this lens covers so this would let me drop a lens. I’d sell my 100mm L and get this one if it is as advertised.

Do you know if you can put a UV filter on the front to cover that big cavity at low magnification? Or are the filter threads on the inner element? I can’t tell from photos.

I read a review saying it came with a UV filter to cover the hole (that's how I use my Laowa 60mm 2:1). I was in Madagascar with a guy using a prototype of the lens and he really liked it.

Dia de Pikachutos
Nov 8, 2012

The Loawa 100mm is also supposedly apochromatic in visible light, which makes it interesting for focus stacking as well.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Figured the thread needed some body horror to balance out the the lovely macros we normally get

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

jarlywarly posted:

Figured the thread needed some body horror to balance out the the lovely macros we normally get


A sweet little baby ladybug!

Gorgeous picture, though. What camera/lens? Single shot?

Here's my body horror macro pic:

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

joat mon posted:

A sweet little baby ladybug!

Gorgeous picture, though. What camera/lens? Single shot?

Here's my body horror macro pic:


Gross, I love it..

My shot is single shot 2x with a Canon 80D and the MPE-65. Not on my Flickr as yet, settings are f/11 ISO 100 1/250 sync.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Back to alien beauty...


Hover Fly Portrait by Aves Lux, on Flickr

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


A couple of recent shote: These black spiders live all over the rocks next to the lake where I live.

P1070815 by King Dugga, on Flickr

Little green fly/bug in the mountains warming up in the cool morning air

P1080039 by King Dugga, on Flickr

A tiny crystal ball

P1080056 by King Dugga, on Flickr

Fingers McLongDong
Nov 30, 2005

not eromenos
Fun Shoe
Slide rails vs using the focus ring when you're tripod mounted? What do ya'll prefer? I'm just using the focus ring, when I played around with a slide rail it felt like I was causing slight movements each time I made an adjustment, less so than adjusting the focus ring with the tripod head clamped down.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

Fingers McLongDong posted:

Slide rails vs using the focus ring when you're tripod mounted? What do ya'll prefer? I'm just using the focus ring, when I played around with a slide rail it felt like I was causing slight movements each time I made an adjustment, less so than adjusting the focus ring with the tripod head clamped down.

Focus rail, here. I feel I have better control of the depth of each step in focus and haven't had any alignment problems with stacks.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Is this for stacking? With an adjustable focus lens eg Canon 100mm f/2.8L I tend to use a phone app to control my focus stepping, this avoids touching the the camera to adjust the focus and allows for more precise step control and basically automates the entire process.

QDSLR can setup and execute an automatic stack sequence. https://dslrdashboard.info/

This mushroom was a stack done using it and then Helicon.


Toadstool by Aves Lux, on Flickr

You can use the same app for just taking single shots and live view for focus check, it drains the battery on your phone and camera though.

With a fixed focus lens like the MP-E65 then yeah you have use rails.

jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jun 28, 2019

Fingers McLongDong
Nov 30, 2005

not eromenos
Fun Shoe
Yeah, I'm talking stacking. I was doing some stacking practice last night with the tripod and was taking the shots by physically adjusting the focus ring and then lightly touching the camera screen instead of using the button to reduce any movement. The stack worked out well, I had really minimal alignment issues around the border that required extremely small cropping. I'll probably try the app though since it can do focus adjusting without any touching, that's cool.

Now if only I could learn how to shoot and edit in a way that the fine white hairs on a leaf (sage, in this case) don't absorb so much light and wash out the rest of the leaf. The flash was overexposing everything so I worked with natural light since the sun was shining directly on my subject.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
When you are on the tripod and stacking you can often open up to a decent aperture because you don't need the DoF because you are stacking, you can also reduce shutter speed which means less need to use the flash, sometimes you need that flash though so keep the diffuser on and even when shooting in natural light look for more diffuse light wherever possible, cloudy but brights days produce better macro photos than blue sky sun glaring days.

Obviously this is a very simple statement there are occasions where your stacks need to be wider DoF because you don't want to use too many images because of out of focus fringes on hairs etc, which is why apochromatic lenses are preffered for stacks.

I like f/4.5 on my 100mm for stacks usually around 1/60.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Speaking of stacking, has anyone used or have experience with the auto focus stacking modes of assorted modern mirrorless cameras? (I don't know if dslrs offer this, I don't know much about them). If so, how well does it work? Do you still need a tripod, or can you hand hold the camera?

Graniteman
Nov 16, 2002

Finger Prince posted:

Speaking of stacking, has anyone used or have experience with the auto focus stacking modes of assorted modern mirrorless cameras? (I don't know if dslrs offer this, I don't know much about them). If so, how well does it work? Do you still need a tripod, or can you hand hold the camera?

I haven’t tried them, but I wouldn’t expect them to work well for macro. Their algorithms are surely optimized for landscape focus stacking.

There are big differences in quality from the results of different stacking algorithms, in particular with respect to fine overlapping details like hairs. Photoshop does a terrible job for example, although it’s fine for landscapes. The dedicated stacking programs like Zerene and Helicon let you select different algorithms matched to your content.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Finally got one of those cool shots I have been lusting over.

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


Reviews I have read on photomacrography suggest they are surprisingly decent in some cases, but still not as good as exporting source images and stacking them yourself. But I haven't sought out the topic specifically so searching on a model by model basis could give better information.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Graniteman posted:

I haven’t tried them, but I wouldn’t expect them to work well for macro. Their algorithms are surely optimized for landscape focus stacking.

There are big differences in quality from the results of different stacking algorithms, in particular with respect to fine overlapping details like hairs. Photoshop does a terrible job for example, although it’s fine for landscapes. The dedicated stacking programs like Zerene and Helicon let you select different algorithms matched to your content.

It's more the built in focus bracketing that's good, it would be ace to be able to have the camera fire off a quick 5 frames and move the focus point quickly though the scene for each one, with programmable gaps for flash capacitor recharge.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

jarlywarly posted:

It's more the built in focus bracketing that's good, it would be ace to be able to have the camera fire off a quick 5 frames and move the focus point quickly though the scene for each one, with programmable gaps for flash capacitor recharge.

Excuse my question if it's ignorant: Except for cost, is a tilt/shift solution not a neater solution than focus bracketing and stitching?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Are there T+S lenses that do 1-2x? Focus plane control would be really nice just not sure the lenses are there for working at the magnifications and working distances for small insect macro.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

jarlywarly posted:

Are there T+S lenses that do 1-2x? Focus plane control would be really nice just not sure the lenses are there for working at the magnifications and working distances for small insect macro.

Cambo makes the Actus bellows(?) which gives you T+S. Perhaps you will need some additional extension tubes to reach 2x. It's a little bulky IMO, so perhaps better in a studio for stills than outside for constantly moving critters.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

theHUNGERian posted:

Cambo makes the Actus bellows(?) which gives you T+S. Perhaps you will need some additional extension tubes to reach 2x. It's a little bulky IMO, so perhaps better in a studio for stills than outside for constantly moving critters.

Yeah field macro is a compromise between practical portable and kit and trying to create a little studio outdoors.

toggle
Nov 7, 2005



joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.


Terrifying Effigies
Oct 22, 2008

Problems look mighty small from 150 miles up.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Lovely work everyone the wings on that I'm going to guess clearwing moth? are ace.



Budding by Aves Lux, on Flickr

-CHA
Jun 21, 2004

State-of-the-art
home video technology

Moth2 by cha_reckoning, on Flickr


Moth4 by cha_reckoning, on Flickr

Moths on the window in space.

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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

-CHA posted:


Moth2 by cha_reckoning, on Flickr


Moth4 by cha_reckoning, on Flickr

Moths on the window in space.

I love, love love that 1st one, Mothra in Space.

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