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JEEVES420 posted:I have been checking craiglist for a good deal on a band saw for some time now. I just came across a Laguna 14 SUV for $500. Kicker is its 220v and to run a new drop in my garage (Right now I am running everything off one outlet and extension cords ) I need to updated my grandfathered breaker box which would cost $7k. I saw a Grizzly 14" for 350 I think. Central OK. Not a bad deal. Pretty sure all their motors are easily configurable. You're in what, East Texas? That's a bit of a long haul....
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# ? Jul 5, 2019 21:14 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 23:12 |
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JEEVES420 posted:I am not finding anything saying it can. I could run an extension cord to an outlet on a different breaker and then use one in the garage combined to get 240v. Not ideal in the least but at least it would work till I figured out the proper electrical (or burn my house down). E: nm, a 3hp 120 motor pulls 32A. That might be harder to deal with than figuring out something 220.
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# ? Jul 5, 2019 21:26 |
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buying a brand new 1.5HP 14" saw that runs on 120 is probably cheaper than a $500 2HP 14" saw that runs on 220 plus a motor or rewiring the house. At least, that was my own conclusion.
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# ? Jul 5, 2019 23:43 |
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MetaJew posted:So I ordered a ring and I've been wanting to build this ring box: Jhet posted:I'm wanting to expand my collection of chisels and add a gouge or two so I can actually figure out how to use them. I don't mind older tools, so I'm giving ebay a shot so I can hopefully afford an extra couple. That does carry some risk, but I'm seeing a lot of tools from Ward, Buck, and Millers Falls and not sure where to start. I just need something of decent quality that I can not feel terrible about before deciding on buying a new expensive set.
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 00:25 |
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I'm a newbie who is starting a boys "dollhouse" (really car/action figure "castle" of sorts) project from one of our old tables. I tried to look at some of the newbie links in OP but the websites were a bit more advanced than "guy can operate a tool and not cut off his finger" level. I've been brain storming this for a bit and THINK a "multi theme" house is possible. My thought is using the table below, to drill holes at the bottom of all the red lines, tap in a tee nut..then turn a screw into the bottom of a dowel, cut the head off the screw, and twist the screw/dowel into the tee nut. Essentially this would give me nine support "beams" for the house. I want to add interchangeable "walls" (thin plywood, etc) so I can make (up to 4) rooms for the house. I was thinking of painting some of the walls to make a car/auto shop feel or castle. In the end, I could swap out the walls to fit the "theme." My problem is a system to make the walls interchangeable. I've kicked around the idea with a few people and best idea we came up with was the square dowels with grooves in the sides to slide the plywood into when you want to change. Not here or not today, but I will need to figure out the appropriate diameter of the dowel in relation to depth of the groove and space at the bottom for the screw without compromising structural integrity and having them snap too easy. My woodworking question is actually REALLY easy for someone to answer, but myself and those around me are just woodworking inept. What should I use to "cut" the groove? I, nor the people I associate, have a table saw to set at an arbitrary height to slide the dowel over for a super easy groove. A few of the things I have: a circular saw, a jigsaw, few hand saws, orbital sander. Is there any reasonable method I could use to cut consistent grooves in the dowels without losing a finger? I am starting to understand a table saw would be the best option, I just don't have access to one.
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 00:32 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Those are all decent brands that should be decent old high carbon steel. DR Barton, Pexto/Peck Stowe and Wilcox, Union, Greenlee were all good American brands. Any of the good English makes like old Marples, Addis, Matthieson, Henry Taylor, Robert Sorby etc etc etc should all be good too. They are probably slightly softer steel than most modern steels. That makes them easier to sharpen and some of them will get sharper than modern steels. I personally much prefer easier to sharpen old stuff over new modern super hard stuff, especially since I use oilstones. Thanks for all the names. There are quite a few right in my price range for them, and this will make it easy to fill out a collection. I don’t mind if the steel is a little softer, but I do care about a few other things that modern manufacturers don’t do for less expensive chisels. Like put decent handles on them.
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 00:41 |
Duxwig posted:My woodworking question is actually REALLY easy for someone to answer, but myself and those around me are just woodworking inept. What should I use to "cut" the groove? A stationary tool is almost mandatory for this, it will be difficult (and potentially unsafe) to make a straight groove along a board with a moving power tool. A router table or a table saw would be the best. The hand tool route would be either chiseling the groove (slow, tedious, likely poor result) or getting a specialized plane for making grooves. nielsm fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jul 6, 2019 |
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 08:16 |
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Can you use square "rods" instead of dowels? That would make pretty much anything easier. Even if you hadd a fully-stocked workshop I don't think grooved dowels would be particularly easy to make; you need to make absolutely certain that the dowel doesn't rotate while it's being cut. And heaven help you if you want there to be more than one groove in a single dowel. With square rods it'd be pretty easy to get an OK groove with a handsaw and a chisel. It's not going to look perfect -- no first project using chisels does -- but it'll work. It'll just be time-consuming, especially the first few while you're still figuring things out. I agree with nielsm that in either case I would not attempt this with your current selection of power tools. Either use hand tools, or buy a new power tool.
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 15:27 |
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Glue two pieces of the thin plywood to the post to make the grooves? What kind of dimensions are you talking here? Doll house work is really small and a table saw is really big so I'm confused.
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 15:48 |
If you use circular dowels/rods and can find an appropriate router bit, you might be able to route grooves into the sides of the walls so they can grab onto the rods, like this: That would be doable with a handheld electric router, the main challenge in this would be cutting the walls precisely the right length and drilling the doles for the rods in a precise grid. It also requires the wall material to be sufficiently thick, probably at least 1/2 inch and better 3/4 inch.
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 15:52 |
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I've built one from a kit. What he needs is I don't have one around, but I'd eyeball it at a 1/4" square with 1/16" grooves on the sides as appropriate (e.g., two adjacent sides for corners, two opposing sides for joining walls, three sides where "two" (three) walls join as at a T). The one I built required nothing but glue. And the plywood sides join with the square dowels to support the structure. And there are dowels across the top of the plywood to hold everything square. Which leaves me with no way to make the walls interchangeable... Cut a 3/16" groove, a slightly deeper 1/16" groove in the middle, put a permanent 1/16" piece down the middle with room for interchangeable sides next to it... and up the dowel size to 1/2" square to accommodate the grooves? Or do wedged through tenons at 1:12 scale. Or buy a kit.
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 17:08 |
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Should I be dropping everything I'm doing to get this? https://kpr.craigslist.org/tls/d/kennewick-delta-band-saw/6927881968.html
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 21:16 |
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That's a benchtop model, so of somewhat more limited use than the full-size ones. Explains why it's so cheap too. If you think you'd find it useful, go for it, but I don't think it's that amazing of a deal.
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 21:22 |
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I just want to point out that based on looking at the "end grain" and the wear along the edges, I think this table is made of particle board with veneer on it. Drilling through it will work, and you can also drive dowels or whatever into it, but the pressure from the uprights is going to tend to crush the particle board and loosen your fasteners and generally just tear up the mushboard that it's made of. You may want to figure out a way to affix a sheet of plywood to the table and then build everything up off of that. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jul 6, 2019 |
# ? Jul 6, 2019 21:23 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That's a benchtop model, so of somewhat more limited use than the full-size ones. Explains why it's so cheap too. If you think you'd find it useful, go for it, but I don't think it's that amazing of a deal. I don't have the floor space for standing models. Aside from *cough*getting a jobsite saw again*cough* I have a benchtop drill press and handheld tools. Then again, I am planning a trip to Grizzly this fall soooooo.....
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 21:24 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Can you use square "rods" instead of dowels? That would make pretty much anything easier. Even if you hadd a fully-stocked workshop I don't think grooved dowels would be particularly easy to make; you need to make absolutely certain that the dowel doesn't rotate while it's being cut. And heaven help you if you want there to be more than one groove in a single dowel. I misspoke it appears, I did mean square rods. A rounded edge I can see being super difficult and not what I'm wanting. JEEVES420 posted:Glue two pieces of the thin plywood to the post to make the grooves? That could work in some regard now that I think about it. The table is 3'x3' on top. I was thinking 1" square wood rods to cut the grooves into it. In the end I may need 1 1/2" to account for say a 1/4" groove and enough room on the bottom for the screw to not impact the integrity or budge out into the groove area making the "wall" not sit flush. nielsm posted:A stationary tool is almost mandatory for this, it will be difficult (and potentially unsafe) to make a straight groove along a board with a moving power tool. A router table or a table saw would be the best. I think in the end I'm going to look at facebook marketplace to see if I can find some old 85 year handyman who needs me to listen to him vent for 45 mins while he takes 5 mins to do the grooves for me. The glued plywood will take 2nd place if I cant find the old dude. Thanks for the suggestions! I may be back with more questions
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 21:56 |
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Blindeye posted:Should I be dropping everything I'm doing to get this? That's almost half of what those usually go for I believe so a pretty good deal. It's a sweet little saw but emphasis on the little as its 8"...
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# ? Jul 6, 2019 22:16 |
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Been a while since I've posted here but I just spent like the last 3 weeks catching up. Took a long break from doing anything on account of having a kid and no time, but I'm getting my workshop area cleaned up and ready, and gonna try out doing hand tool stuff on account of the less noise and dust. So I raided my grandpa's old workshop and got a few things.
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 19:25 |
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Elder Postsman posted:Been a while since I've posted here but I just spent like the last 3 weeks catching up. Took a long break from doing anything on account of having a kid and no time, but I'm getting my workshop area cleaned up and ready, and gonna try out doing hand tool stuff on account of the less noise and dust. So I raided my grandpa's old workshop and got a few things. Your grandpa has some good taste owning a Bed Rock.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 05:34 |
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Duxwig posted:I misspoke it appears, I did mean square rods. A rounded edge I can see being super difficult and not what I'm wanting. Hey, does it have to be wood? 2020 aluminium extrusion is slotted on all 4 sides.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 05:52 |
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A visit home lead to some more goodies from my dad's workshop that he doesn't use/need anymore. Please ignore that this is cropped/lit as though it's showing a torture implement table in a home dungeon. He also made us some wonderful side tables out of hard maple.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:27 |
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Any reason not to jump at a cheap 6" jointer? https://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/d/garner-jointer/6927734575.html
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:39 |
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toplitzin posted:Any reason not to jump at a cheap 6" jointer? With no guard I wouldn't jump anywhere near it Check the tables read true, motor is good, and if you can get a replacement guard. I'd also check that it is sturdy, nothing scarier than a jointer moving under your board.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:45 |
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See my posts in this thread circa January 2018 for my feelings on jointer guards.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 20:10 |
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Super Waffle posted:See my posts in this thread circa January 2018 for my feelings on jointer guards. Super Waffle posted:Everyone, please don't try adjusting your jointer safety cover mid-cut Super Waffle posted:Nah, I got lucky, could have been much much worse:
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 20:28 |
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[Dude pointing at forehead] "Can't adjust your jointer guard mid-cut if your jointer doesn't have a guard."
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 20:32 |
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what a tease, rehost the image. Blood for the wood gods!
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 21:04 |
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I never used used a jointer with a guard until like 2 years ago and it feels soooooo much safer and I was dumb not to fuss about it. We would move the fence over to cover most of the cutterhead, but on the big 16” jointer it was scary. Teach you to keep your shirt tucked in fast.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 21:33 |
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It came from r/woodworking...
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 14:19 |
cakesmith handyman posted:It came from r/woodworking... one or two of those well placed looks nice as an accent. This looks like you told a 7 yr old to fix something with a staplegun.
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 14:22 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:It came from r/woodworking...
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 14:45 |
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Yeesh. At least angle them to match the grain lines.
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 14:49 |
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ColdPie posted:Yeesh. At least angle them to match the grain lines. Haha that's funny
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 14:52 |
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Love to make my $X00 slab of wood look like it had its appendix out.
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 14:56 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think (hope?) we have reached peak slab furniture. What's the next trend though? If you can get out ahead of it you can become a wood working thousandaire.
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 14:56 |
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Tres Burritos posted:What's the next trend though? If you can get out ahead of it you can become a wood working thousandaire. "Urban Reclamation" is the new buzz term I am seeing. It seems to cover everything from cutting down your neighbors tree to picking up construction waste left out for curb pickup.
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 15:52 |
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JEEVES420 posted:"Urban Reclamation" is the new buzz term I am seeing. It seems to cover everything from cutting down your neighbors tree to picking up construction waste left out for curb pickup. Yup, based on the guy desperately trying to buy the really old metal barn roof I was demoing for his new bar wall because "you cant fake patina like that"
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 16:07 |
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yup, based on the guy desperately trying to buy the really old metal barn roof I was demoing for his new bar wall because "you cant fake patina like that" I hope you sold it to him for a HILARIOUSLY inflated price!
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 17:04 |
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yup, based on the guy desperately trying to buy the really old metal barn roof I was demoing for his new bar wall because "you cant fake patina like that" There is something to be said about galvanized metal with mold/dirt all over it
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 18:32 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 23:12 |
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Tres Burritos posted:What's the next trend though? If you can get out ahead of it you can become a wood working thousandaire. Walnut is definitely still very popular, but it doesn’t seem to be as hot as it was a few years ago (maybe because it’s gotten too expensive?). Blonder/lighter woods like ash and even birch/maple seem to be the cooler thing. Oak in different finishes (bleached, limed, cerused, etc) is definitely having a moment. Mahogany is still sadly out of favor because everyone thinks it has to be that red Bismarck Brown mahogany finish that went on every piece of North Carolina/Grand Rapids factory furniture from the 50s and 60s. And also yeah, I don’t think we’ve seen the end of HGTV/youtubers telling us pallet wood is still cool. Is it still free if all the nails trash your planer knives and sawblades? They don’t ever seem to show the hours and hours of miserable labor it takes to pull all those loving rusty, broken nails out of that old barn beam, not to mention dealing with powder post beetles invading your house for the next 20 years. Ask me how much I love reclaimed wood.
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# ? Jul 11, 2019 19:48 |