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kid sinister posted:Sounds like a dead ballast. It happens. The test is to try the tubes in another known working fixture. If they work there, then it's a dead ballast. If this is a 4 foot fixture with 4 tubes, get a 4xF32T8 ballast at any hardware store. Get a package of the tiny wire nuts too, the blue or orange colored ones. Turn the power off and cut out the red, blue and yellow wires near the ballast and strip them. Untwist the black and white wires from the ones feeding the fixture. Remove the old ballast and put up the new one. Match wire colors, twist and cap them. Before you put the cover back on, turn the power back on and see if it does. If so, turn the power off again, bundle up the wires and replace the cover. e: speaking of, is there a goon approved video or other guisde on how to use a multimeter for carpenters (and other dummies)
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Jul 9, 2019 20:16
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Not for nothing but they make some sweet LED replacement tubes these days that "pivot", meaning they can be rotated to be more directional . They're 110 so no ballast needed. They're great for shops and things.
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Jul 9, 2019 22:46
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So if replacing a light switch is like changing your oil, would this be like a brake job? There was not a ceiling fan in my office this morning  Had to replace the light assembly; the stock socket had some bare wiring from old insulation on the neutral. Quick trip to Lowes got me a new single-leg socket and pull switch. I wired up the fan light switch on the hot side so that when the switch is off, the socket is de-energized; is this standard? It made sense to me to do it that way so if a finger gets stuck in the socket with the pull switch off it won't zap you. Edit: I tried to use some online wiring diagram software but found I had not a drat clue how to do it properly  Sounds like I need that electronics course sooner rather than later (aspiring MechE)
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 9, 2019 23:54
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uh are you sure your ceiling box is rated for a fan?
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Jul 10, 2019 03:40
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:uh are you sure your ceiling box is rated for a fan? Echoing this. Your wiring sounds right to me, but I can also tell you from personal experience that if you have a fan attached to a non-fan rated box you're risking a bad time. I did this once in a room I was renting and couldn't run it above "low" without it trying to come off the ceiling. You can buy upgrade boxes for pretty cheap at most hardware stores that are easy to install as long as you have access above it.
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Jul 10, 2019 04:10
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:uh are you sure your ceiling box is rated for a fan? wolrah posted:Echoing this. Your wiring sounds right to me, but I can also tell you from personal experience that if you have a fan attached to a non-fan rated box you're risking a bad time. I did this once in a room I was renting and couldn't run it above "low" without it trying to come off the ceiling. Yeah, there's a crossbar. I could see the wood behind the box, 4 woodscrews holding it in. I appreciate the lookin' out 
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Jul 10, 2019 04:22
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Beach Bum posted:Yeah, there's a crossbar. I could see the wood behind the box, 4 woodscrews holding it in. I appreciate the lookin' out Boo, hiss. I have a mystery blockoff plate on a vaulted (14') ceiling. One of these evenings we will fire up the multimeter and find out what switches are trying of party.
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Jul 10, 2019 06:38
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I installed a new light! It's so bright in here now! Previously there was track lighting here that we ripped down when we scraped the popcorn ceiling off.
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Jul 10, 2019 19:25
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Blackbeer posted:A magnetic ballast (which is most likely what failed) will cost about $10 if you want to do it cheap or if you'll replace the fixture in the next few years. Can you even get a magnetic ballast for the most common fixtures anymore? I thought they'd mostly been phased out for T8 and T12 fixtures. Personally, I'll take a magnetic ballast over electronic any day - yeah, they have to flicker to life instead of instant-on, and they use more energy, but they don't take a poo poo if you look at them funny.
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Jul 11, 2019 05:19
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 Sick of replacing tubes all the time on the flourescents probably due to lovely ballasts, I took it down, put in an led one on the left without killing myself or fuses instantly. If my home hasnt caught fire in an hour or so I should be okay right? :v
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Jul 11, 2019 09:59
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STR posted:Can you even get a magnetic ballast for the most common fixtures anymore? I thought they'd mostly been phased out for T8 and T12 fixtures. Oh, duh, I meant electronic ballast. Yeah, you don't see magnetic ones except in older fixtures, but they do hold up. Not sure if one can get new magnetic ballasts, haven't seen a new one in years.
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Jul 11, 2019 14:30
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Thought I'd run this by you guys to make sure I haven't missed something:  Getting ready to replace the new house's detached garage's subpanel. It's got a 10/3 service line and I'm planning on moving my workshop tools in there. The service line is run (I think all the way) through conduit underneath the pavement along with a couple ancient telephone wires, so I might be able to pull/replace it if I need to, but I hope I don't. The new panel has to run the following: 14 amp Dust collector 10 amp Bandsaw 13 amp Table saw 1hp air compressor Garage door opener 5 misc amps worth of lights, battery chargers, etc. I figure if I give those 5 items dedicated 20 amp circuits, and make sure the dust collector's breaker is on a different phase than the bandsaw and table saw breakers (since they are going to be used simultaneously) I shouldn't be pulling much more than 20 amps on either phase which is well below the 30 amps I've got. I'll have to re-wire my saws back to 120V, but from what I've read I didn't really need to run them at 240V like I'd been doing in the old shop.
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Jul 12, 2019 00:52
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I just bought a house, and in the living room area on either side of the picture window is a plate with a plug in it. I'm not coming up with the right way to google this, but the plug says Sierra on it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/KKdXu1qbWFEBptT76 Anyone know what this is?
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Jul 12, 2019 01:44
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Nevets posted:Thought I'd run this by you guys to make sure I haven't missed something: Post the inside of the panel, coward! (sorry, channeling the interior design thread) But seriously, if you've actually got 240 out there (that box is old as poo poo and I don't recognize it other than square d) and things aren't a surprising disaster in there that sounds like a reasonable plan.
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Jul 12, 2019 01:56
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 I've definitely got 240, the main panel has a 30amp double pole feeding the garage subpanel.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:01
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Wow, you hit the jackpot. That's clean and just what you need. Only question - where does that ground go? Your new panel should have a separate ground bar (most bigger ones do, you just pull a screw or not install it to NOT bridge the ground and neutral bars together). The ground SHOULD be going to a separate rod or other adequate (code legal for your area) ground for that building. Depending on code you may or may not need to tie the building ground into that panel and outbuilding ground (I would). A lot of the details are code specific, so you should be sure of how this works according to your local codes so you don't have any surprises from the inspector. In fact, in most places calling the AHJ ahead of time and asking if you can sit down with them for 10 minutes and telling them what you are doing would be a great way to get this information as well as build a relationship so then know who the hell you are as they sign off on your permit.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:16
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Motronic posted:Wow, you hit the jackpot. That's clean and just what you need. I'll double check but I don't think the building has it's own ground, just the service line's ground that is connected at the main panel. Would it be OK if I used the conduit? I don't want to drill through the concrete floor or the pavement, and the grass is at least 10 ft away from the panel. Vermont, so no permit, no inspection, just me with a power drill and fire extinguisher 
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Jul 12, 2019 02:36
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Motronic posted:Depending on code you may or may not need to tie the building ground into that panel and outbuilding ground (I would). If the EGC is carried to the sub panel (and it certainly appears to be in that modern 10-3 cable), you MUST treat it just like a sub panel anywhere else, with separate ground and un-bonded neutral. You also need a ground rod connected to the EGC (again the ground rod is for lightning. It's purpose is to dissipate energy from a strike at or near the detached garage and prevent it from running back to the main structure). There are specific cases where criteria are met to allow no EGC to be run to a sub panel that is considered a separate service, and in that case the neutral and EGC would be bonded at that sub panel. That does not appear to be the condition in this case.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:40
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angryrobots posted:If the EGC is carried to the sub panel (and it certainly appears to be in that modern 10-3 cable), you MUST treat it just like a sub panel anywhere else, with separate ground and un-bonded neutral. You also need a ground rod connected to the EGC (again the ground rod is for lightning. It's purpose is to dissipate energy from a strike at or near the detached garage and prevent it from running back to the main structure). This Nevets. Go forth and drive new ground rods.
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Jul 12, 2019 03:09
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mwdan posted:I just bought a house, and in the living room area on either side of the picture window is a plate with a plug in it. Not a goddamn clue. It looks like some weird rectangular wall-socket version of a C7 connection but that would be a) dangerous and b) weird. Maybe it's custom.
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Jul 12, 2019 03:51
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mwdan posted:I just bought a house, and in the living room area on either side of the picture window is a plate with a plug in it. I couldn't find anything that matched those pictures, but I did discover that a company called Sierra made a low voltage home system, and I'm betting that's what it's a part of. https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/sierra-electric-low-voltage-lighting-info/ e: Found this thread, and while I can't see the pictures, it looks like they're describing exactly what you have. http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_...t-odd-what.html Consensus seems to be an antenna or antenna related. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jul 12, 2019 |
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Jul 12, 2019 04:14
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mwdan posted:I just bought a house, and in the living room area on either side of the picture window is a plate with a plug in it. No idea. Google thinks it might be an old whole house antenna system maybe? What’s behind the plate?
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Jul 12, 2019 04:15
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almost sure you'll find 300 ohm twin-lead behind that
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Jul 12, 2019 04:47
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Pretty sure this i apropos to the sub panel discussion: Here is the main box in 70's era home.  There are four sub panels:  The box above feeds an outbuilding and is/was connected to 30amp breaker that is off (and has wire removed.) The disconnected wire has a dead short that developed in the last few days. There is another junction box between the two boxes that filled with water. The two 110 legs were sealed in silicone, but the ground was exposed and oxidized. I suspect the ground was acting as neutral, oxidized to the point of super high resistance. Anyhow, been working with an older guy. I keep thinking he is wrong about code--but then I can never back up my answer. For example--hooking a wire on an outlet so as you tighten the wire it closes the hook. I was always taught no exposed wire past the screw terminal and always put the wire on the right and tighten. Old guy tells me that is best practice--but not code? I looked and looked--and it sure does seem to be taught that way-but no code? Found distance between outlets, gauge requirements, etc--nothing about the connection. I've been putting marking tape in trenches with power for at least a decade. The old guy asked me why when it wasn't code in North Carolina unless it was commercial. "Your wrong, old man!!" Nope--sure does seem residences don't need to mark trenches. His remark--was to go try and buy a roll at Lowes. (Sure enough they don't stock any electrical marking tape for trenches.) And here is why I am making the post. To fix the subpanel, he wants to run 4/3 with a ground. While a ground wire for the 400' won't hurt things--is it necessary? A 10' grounding rod will be sunk directly under the replacement subpanel. The other issue was the subpanel. What he brought is a main panel/only had one grounding bar. He seems to think separating grounds and neutrals is optional!? I know I am right about separating grounds and neutrals in the subpanel. Checking who was right--it seems I am--and it has been code since 1923. Is there any realm where neutral and grounds are allowed on the same grounding bar in a sub panel? For extra fun here is the box that runs the house from the 100amp in the main box  And here is a box the older guy connected at the property a few years ago for another outbuilding: 
HycoCam fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Jul 12, 2019 |
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Jul 12, 2019 13:12
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HycoCam posted:
angryrobots posted:If the EGC is carried to the sub panel (and it certainly appears to be in that modern 10-3 cable), you MUST treat it just like a sub panel anywhere else, with separate ground and un-bonded neutral. You also need a ground rod connected to the EGC (again the ground rod is for lightning. It's purpose is to dissipate energy from a strike at or near the detached garage and prevent it from running back to the main structure). It would appear that this panel quoted below was wired as a "separate service", I'm assuming the bare #4 goes to a ground rod. HycoCam posted:
But I question whether it actually meets the criteria. For example, there can be no other conductive path to the outbuilding, like plumbing, a data line, etc. It's never wrong to maintain the EGC.
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Jul 12, 2019 14:20
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Another question: If I pull stranded thhn through conduits would it be better to use solid wire for the outlet pigtails or more stranded?
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Jul 12, 2019 17:06
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Solid tails with wire nuts to the stranded, it's easier and a more solid connection. It's actually illegal to do anything else around here now but it's a recent local thing.
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Jul 12, 2019 17:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:e: speaking of, is there a goon approved video or other guisde on how to use a multimeter for carpenters (and other dummies) Eh, there's not much use for a carpenter for a multimeter. Even for electricians, the most useful multimeter functions are AC volts and resistance/continuity. You can use the AC volts function in place of a circuit tester. It's also useful for testing for neutral problems. As for continuity, that's good for tracing cable runs to see if pathways are unbroken, or even to make sure that things are NOT circuits. For example, hot to ground should never be 0 Ohms. That's a short and will trip the breaker. That's also useful for tracking down neutral to ground shorts, which can affect GFCIs and AFCIs. The other functions of a multimeter are more useful to electronics testing. Umm, you could use DC volts to test batteries? AA, AAA, C and D alkaline batteries are all 1.5 volts each and should test within 20-25% of that, depending on how finicky your device is. Automobiles use DC power too. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jul 12, 2019 |
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Jul 12, 2019 23:41
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Motronic posted:This Nevets.  This wasn't as bad as I expected, turns out my property is dirt all the way down, and the random assortment of tools I bought mostly sight unseen from the PO included a 4ft jackhammer bit (no actual jackhammer unfortunately). That was fairly easy to pound into the ground so I got to start with a 3ft deep hole and didn't need a ladder.
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Jul 13, 2019 00:01
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:e: speaking of, is there a goon approved video or other guisde on how to use a multimeter for carpenters (and other dummies) Start with something that isn't free with a coupon from hazard fraught. I've been happy with this one, it might explode in my hands, but it probably won't and I'm not going to be around those kinds of voltages: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012VYKVQ/ . If you are going to be around voltages that might make it explode buy a Fluke and definitely don't go near them because "if you have to ask". Read the manual. Look up what all the little symbols mean. Read the rating plate ("0-600V" for example). Read it again. Do you have something over 600V? See above. Take off any metal jewelry, including gold wedding bands or necklaces. Never set it to "Amps" until you read how to safely do that. I don't know, so I don't do it. Set it to Vac. Double check it's in Vac. Jam one end into the neutral side of an outlet, the other end into the hot side. It should say like 116 after a few seconds. Now go jam it onto each terminal on your car battery. Did you check it was in Vdc? No? Slap yourself. Always check mode first. Hopefully it says >12V. If it's under, get ready to change your car battery. Start your car, check you're in Vdc, same deal. Hopefully it says 14Vdc - this means your alternator works. Set it to continuity. Touch the probes together - beep! Now jam it into the ground and neutral on an outlet. Beep? Great. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 13, 2019 |
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Jul 13, 2019 00:18
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H110Hawk posted:
Yes, you definitely forget how AC works.
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Jul 13, 2019 00:34
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Motronic posted:Yes, you definitely forget how AC works. It does 60 times a second in North America! This is what I get for posting while on the phone with a telco carrier.
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Jul 13, 2019 00:37
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Motronic posted:Yes, you definitely forget how AC works. Are you positive?
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Jul 13, 2019 00:47
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H110Hawk posted:Start with something that isn't free with a coupon from hazard fraught. Disagree. The free one from HF is plenty sufficient for someone just messing around with standard 12 (auto)/24 (hvac)/120/240v and basic hobby stuff. I mean, if you make a living doing electrical work or you're routinely working with 500V+ circuits, invest in a Fluke. I know my way around a circuit, and have multiple pricier meters, but the red HF one gets knocked around in my toolbag (because who cares) and gets more use than all the others.
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Jul 13, 2019 01:33
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B-Nasty posted:Disagree. 2 of mine never worked right and I threw them away but that Extech has served a few of my friends really well over the years is all I'm suggesting.
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Jul 13, 2019 01:43
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B-Nasty posted:Disagree. I had a HF that was knocking around in a tool bag forever. Didn't realize the mode knob was knocked one position off. Went to check AC volts and it was in AC amps. I'd gotten that one specifically because it only had two lead positions so I wouldn't have to bother swapping leads around for amps. It caught fire in my hand as it welded itself into the socket. Eventually the breaker popped. I have the cheapest one from Home Depot now; a Sperry, I think, and I trust that its "fused" actually means it has a fuse in it. It also requires a lead swap to get into amps, but I'm ok with the inconsequential inconvenience now.
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Jul 13, 2019 01:59
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angryrobots posted:Are you positive? I'm neutral.
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Jul 13, 2019 02:18
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Motronic posted:I'm neutral. At least you're not getting all hot.
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Jul 13, 2019 02:21
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:At least you're not getting all hot. So the black ones are all hotheads huh? I look forward to a day when wires are judged not by the color of their insulation, but the content of their conductors.
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Jul 13, 2019 02:35
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The green ones are pretty chill, but the red ones bite.
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Jul 13, 2019 02:37
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