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I have a 2009 Honda Civic, we only drive it around when we visit family outside of NYC so it lives in a covered but not enclosed garage. It developed a shitload of rust on the hood panel in the span of time since we last drove it around, and from what I can tell it's not going to be the type that you can just buff out and repaint. From what I can google, replacement hood panels are pretty cheap but don't come with any sort of clearcoat so I'm assuming the bulk of the expense involved in fixing this would be painting. Local autobody guy saying he can pull a part and just swap it out. Is this something I should do, obviously contingent on the condition of the used part? I'd really rather not be back in this boat... like a year down the road or whatever.
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Jul 12, 2019 17:10
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What's the best way to find interior fasteners? Specifically, a body shop worked on my 2000 Ford Mustang and replaced one of the plastic plugs that holds a trim panel in place with an incorrect (too small, and looks way different) plug. I'd like to ideally find one that looks and fits like the OEM, but I don't know what the part is called or how to find it. Image, if that helps:  There are a couple other similar fasteners I'd like to locate, so tips about how to find these as well as what they are much appreciated. Gunshow Poophole posted:I have a 2009 Honda Civic, we only drive it around when we visit family outside of NYC so it lives in a covered but not enclosed garage. Edit: To be clear, the cheapest way to fix this is to replace it with one that's already painted - hoods are generally a couple of bolts to replace, nothing more. If you get one from a junkyard, you won't have to get it painted, either. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 12, 2019 |
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Jul 12, 2019 17:17
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Krakkles posted:
yes that's the case, it's the leading edge of the hood so it probably took a few dings over the last 10 years and got wormed in by the elements gradually. I figure the used pick-a-part way to go is probably the best, we'll just need to make sure we do a better job waxing and taking care of it from here on out.
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Jul 12, 2019 17:58
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How much protection againts stone chips on the bonnet, or protection to paint in general, does waxing provide? We bought a Civic with a few stone chips on the bonnet, but not too bad. My wife did maybe 12,000 miles in it without me looking at it too closely, then one day I did, and oh my god it's full of stars.
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Jul 12, 2019 18:34
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Father Jack posted:How much protection againts stone chips on the bonnet, or protection to paint in general, does waxing provide? None at all against chips. Same goes for ceramic coatings etc. If a product is claiming it does it's pure bullshit. The only way to protect your paint against stone chips is to apply a paint protection film. Waxes, sealants and coatings provide protection against chemicals, bird poo poo, rain contaminats etc and helps you clean the car easier which in turn means you have to use less contact to get it clean = less microscratches from washing. Won't protect against improper washing technique though, and if you don't care about swirls etc you won't notice a real difference apart from an easier to clean car.
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Jul 12, 2019 18:38
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Krakkles posted:What's the best way to find interior fasteners? Specifically, a body shop worked on my 2000 Ford Mustang and replaced one of the plastic plugs that holds a trim panel in place with an incorrect (too small, and looks way different) plug. I'd like to ideally find one that looks and fits like the OEM, but I don't know what the part is called or how to find it. Alternatively the junkyard is great for stuff like that.
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Jul 12, 2019 19:43
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Krakkles posted:What's the best way to find interior fasteners? Specifically, a body shop worked on my 2000 Ford Mustang and replaced one of the plastic plugs that holds a trim panel in place with an incorrect (too small, and looks way different) plug. I'd like to ideally find one that looks and fits like the OEM, but I don't know what the part is called or how to find it. I got a big bag of assorted fasteners from amazon cheaply (like less than a penny per) for when I did my window regulator
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Jul 12, 2019 19:54
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DesperateDan posted:I got a big bag of assorted fasteners from amazon cheaply (like less than a penny per) for when I did my window regulator Link?
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Jul 12, 2019 20:38
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Krakkles posted:What's the best way to find interior fasteners? Specifically, a body shop worked on my 2000 Ford Mustang and replaced one of the plastic plugs that holds a trim panel in place with an incorrect (too small, and looks way different) plug. I'd like to ideally find one that looks and fits like the OEM, but I don't know what the part is called or how to find it. Junkyard is a great option, but you can also check out your local Ace if it's got a decent fastener selection. There's usually at least one bin full of automotive plugs and fasteners like that.
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Jul 12, 2019 20:45
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Autoexec.bat posted:You can try dealer parts websites, they usually have full diagrams and even if they don't have the parts you can at least get a part number to buy it elsewhere most of the time. yeah the ford EPC is online, its easy to find the Ford PN
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Jul 12, 2019 20:56
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Last time I was at lowes looking for hardware they had half a dozen drawers with all kinds of automotive fasteners, might be worth a look if you have one close by.
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Jul 12, 2019 21:54
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KakerMix posted:Link? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Fasteners-Universal-Fastener-Removal/dp/B07BR9LBRT Similar to this- seems there's a few variations of the types you can get
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Jul 12, 2019 22:08
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MrOnBicycle posted:None at all against chips. Same goes for ceramic coatings etc. If a product is claiming it does it's pure bullshit. The only way to protect your paint against stone chips is to apply a paint protection film. Waxes, sealants and coatings provide protection against chemicals, bird poo poo, rain contaminats etc and helps you clean the car easier which in turn means you have to use less contact to get it clean = less microscratches from washing. Won't protect against improper washing technique though, and if you don't care about swirls etc you won't notice a real difference apart from an easier to clean car. Thanks, the Good Ship Swirly has long since sailed on this one. I was just real suprised how much worse the bonnet chipping got so fast. Nothing down to the metal though, and at the end of the day we didn't buy it for it's looks.
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Jul 12, 2019 23:59
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Where's a good place to get touch up paint? For a 2007 Subaru, if it matters. Just need a small amount to touch up a scrape so it doesn't rust. edit: Probably will also want small amounts of primer as well. Would I want some clear coat too, or is that overkill? DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Jul 13, 2019 |
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Jul 13, 2019 01:04
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You can probably get a paint pen for a popular car like that
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Jul 13, 2019 01:36
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DaveSauce posted:Where's a good place to get touch up paint? Any parts store is going to have a touch up paint for that.
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Jul 13, 2019 02:15
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2011 Toyota Highlander - not that it matters... So a friend was giving away a partial pallet of pavers and I ran over to his house to pick them up. Knocked off a few ants and crickets, but when I got about 3/4 through them, they became damp and...roaches. So I left the rest and bailed. What can I do in the case there are any in the car? I threw the tarp away that they were on and have been tempted to set the car on fire or drive it into the retention pond, but both are probably against HOA. Can you bug bomb a car? Any other options? Am I flipping out about nothing?
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Jul 13, 2019 19:34
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Mammal Sauce posted:Can you bug bomb a car? Any other options? Am I flipping out about nothing? How hot is it where you live right now? Chances are good leaving it out in the sun with the windows up for the day is gonna murder the poo poo out of anything in there.
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Jul 13, 2019 19:41
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You can get bug sprays and get in all the nooks and crannies. I wouldn't bug bomb the car as it's a small volume. But, bug bomb the garage with the car inside and the windows down? I would definitely disconnect the battery.
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Jul 13, 2019 19:44
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Motronic posted:How hot is it where you live right now? Chances are good leaving it out in the sun with the windows up for the day is gonna murder the poo poo out of anything in there. 88 and heat index is around 100.
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Jul 13, 2019 19:56
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Looking forward to the next two hundred posts of us asking/arguing how a cockroach can survive. I'll admit, never had to deal with them. Gotta imagine if you have a few fries from a Happy Meal lost in the seats they might be happy.
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Jul 13, 2019 20:20
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Looking forward to the next two hundred posts of us asking/arguing how a cockroach can survive. A standard professional treatment is 140-150. If it's sunny out I wouldn't be surprised if the interior could get there. Mammal - if you've got a portable thermometer throw it on the dash and see what happens. It's SCIENCE TIME!
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Jul 13, 2019 20:34
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Motronic posted:A standard professional treatment is 140-150. If it's sunny out I wouldn't be surprised if the interior could get there. Of course. My post was a joke, cock roaches will find where it is cooler. I was implying if there isn't a food source they will vacate the premises.
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Jul 13, 2019 20:41
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Motronic posted:A standard professional treatment is 140-150. If it's sunny out I wouldn't be surprised if the interior could get there. I have an IR thermometer I use with rc cars. I'm going to close it up and let the car sit out for a while and I'll check it. I've been sweeping the poo poo out of it and wiping everything down to remove as many traces of food as possible.
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Jul 13, 2019 21:09
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Do we have any K series people around here? We have no Honda thread, for whatever reason. Wtf is with the people on eBay / CL marking the JDM K24A motors as the same as the US K24A2 06-08 TSX motors? I thought that the JDM K24A had the <06 TSX cams? Finding consistent information online has been a pain and I've been going back and forth over this. I know there are the non-three lobed motors, so those are easy to rule out. There is still a huge price disparity between the '200hp K24A' and the US 06-08 motors, so I've been looking at them more seriously. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jul 13, 2019 |
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Jul 13, 2019 21:35
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I have a 07 Nissan Altima, 160k miles on it. Last night I shifted from Neutral to Drive when stopped at a light, and my car wouldn't move an inch forward. Reverse still works although it feels clunky. No engine light, it comes up as ""MAINTAINANCE - TIRE" on the dash. I had it towed to Nissan dealership today and they told me the entire transmission is gone... They want $5000+ to replace it. I asked how they knew it was the entire transmission and not just the fluid... She tells me "I don't know the details but my guy has 25 years of experience, that's how we know". She told me he looked under the hood and could tell right away without even moving the car. What do you guys think? You think I should get a second opinion on it? Maybe try to change the fluids myself and see if it fixes it? I've had good experiences with this dealership in the past but the person I trusted there before retired and now there are new people...
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Jul 13, 2019 23:29
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beeaar posted:No engine light, it comes up as ""MAINTAINANCE - TIRE" on the dash. I don't really have an answer for you (other than taking it somewhere else), but this warning has jack poo poo to do with the transmission. Five seconds of looking says its about tire rotation/replacement. Edit: oh, and don't take a car out of warranty to a dealership.
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Jul 13, 2019 23:44
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Right, I understand that about the warning, but that is the warning I got literally as soon as this problem started happening... And yeah lesson learned on that I guess... I've been going there before for maintenance and it's been fine.
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Jul 14, 2019 00:25
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Looking at a low mileage used car. 16 years old, 10k miles. Sat a lot obviously. What do I look for aside from fluids/rubber? Electronics inspected by the marketplace its posted on. More info in the Mustang thread, because that's what it is, but posting here might get some eyes on it it wouldn't get there because it's also kind of a general question for a vehicle that's sat a long time. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3328290&pagenumber=279#post496692625
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Jul 14, 2019 00:40
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More random truck problems (99 B4000, i.e. Ford Ranger.) My AC cuts out at highway speeds, like above 60mph. It doesn't seem to be RPM related, since it'll be maybe 2300 RPM at 60/65 in the highest gear, and no AC, but a similar RPM at a lower gear on surface streets at 30/35. I checked the refrigerant earlier on the week, my clutch was going in very fast on/off cycles, like five seconds on, five off, etc... The pressure gauge ( just the cheap one on the R134a can) read low as far as I could tell when the clutch was engaged... Since it was cycling so fast, I couldn't get a solid reading (and would shoot up to high pressure when the clutch was off, I assume that's normal?) I filled so it's ended up with the clutch engaged like 90-95% of the timewhen engine is idle, pressure smack dab in the middle of the green, I want to say...30? But it still cuts off above 60 mph. Is it possibly still low on coolant, or is it possible I have a bad pressure transducer/switch?
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Jul 14, 2019 00:56
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DrBouvenstein posted:More random truck problems (99 B4000, i.e. Ford Ranger.) https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888018
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Jul 14, 2019 01:03
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beeaar posted:I have a 07 Nissan Altima, 160k miles on it. Last night I shifted from Neutral to Drive when stopped at a light, and my car wouldn't move an inch forward. Reverse still works although it feels clunky. No engine light, it comes up as ""MAINTAINANCE - TIRE" on the dash. Automatic transmissions are something nobody actually knows how to diagnose anymore. They just remove and replace them. If you're in a big city you can see if there's a transmission specialist with good ratings on Yelp or something. Dealers don't have to be bad for service though, but it doesn't mean they know everything either. Anecdotally, a BMW dealer tech literally tried to start a fight with me by getting an inch from my face and telling me he's been working there for 25 years or whatever. But they were terrible at everything else too.
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Jul 14, 2019 05:56
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beeaar posted:I have a 07 Nissan Altima, 160k miles on it. Last night I shifted from Neutral to Drive when stopped at a light, and my car wouldn't move an inch forward. Reverse still works although it feels clunky. No engine light, it comes up as ""MAINTAINANCE - TIRE" on the dash. I assume this has the CVT?
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Jul 14, 2019 11:55
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Ahh, perfect. I'll start with using real gauges to measure the pressures and post the follow up in there. Thanks.
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Jul 14, 2019 13:26
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beeaar posted:I have a 07 Nissan Altima, 160k miles on it. Last night I shifted from Neutral to Drive when stopped at a light, and my car wouldn't move an inch forward. Reverse still works although it feels clunky. No engine light, it comes up as ""MAINTAINANCE - TIRE" on the dash. This has a CVT, right? If the chain had let go in the CVT, you wouldn't have any movement. I'd check the fluid and see if there's anything shiny (something like glitter - basically shredded metal components). If it looks fine, between the fact that it'll still go into reverse and you got a tire error at the same time, I'd start looking for blown fuses. But Nissan CVTs aren't exactly known for longevity... $5k is a rip off though; you could easily pick up a newer Altima for that, and most shops should be willing to swap in a used transaxle for a lot less.
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Jul 14, 2019 15:50
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Thanks for the replies guys. Nissan is charging me $180 just to have it looked at which I think is ridiculous.
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Jul 14, 2019 20:40
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Hello AI goons! I have an issue with my 2008 2.4 transit diesel. It's a common rail motor with a screw on fuel filter in the engine bay. I'm pretty sure the fuel filter housing is faulty and allowing fuel to siphon back into the tank/air in the system when you leave the van sitting for a few days, it makes cold starting difficult. This is a documented problem on these vans. My question: the factory housing has no priming plunger (but it does have a clogging indicator, thanks Ford for another thing nobody asked for) and there is no electric lift pump in the tank. I don't like this and would like to fit a generic one with a plunger, not least because it'll make fuel filter changes much less painful (and cheaper). But. The factory housing has a temperature-controlled return circuit, for emissions reasons I guess. When the fuel is cold, excess fuel from the pump isn't allowed to drain straight back into the tank, it goes back to the filter housing where it's looped back to the pump. Above a certain temperature some sort of thermo valve opens and the fuel can circulate as normal. If I replace the housing with a generic plunger type and just run the pump return straight to the tank, am I gonna gently caress myself? Or am I overthinking this?
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Jul 14, 2019 21:03
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So, after being in my current house for the last ~12 years, I am being forced to move unexpectedly, which means that I have to get as much of my hoopty fleet running as I can. Not much can be done for the Subarus at this point, but I am trying to resurrect my old truck. It's a 2003 Escalade AWD, with the LQ9 6.0L V8. Has about 190k on it. It was running perfectly when I parked it, but has been sitting in my driveway for the last 4 years. After replacing the battery, draining out the old gas and adding 5 gallons of new (plus some unrelated other stuff), I've been able to get it running, but only on 4 cylinders - the driver's side bank is completely dead. When I pull the plugs going to the coils on the driver's side, there is no change in engine idle, but pulling any of the ones on the passenger side causes the idle to noticeably change. When it is running, it idles rough and throws a CEL. The codes are P0171 "System too lean bank 1" and P0300 "random / multiple cylinder misfire detected". Fuel trims are through the roof on this side as well, but appear relatively normal on the passenger side. Reading about this indicated that the intake manifold gaskets are a known weak spot with these, and could cause this type of problem, so I replaced the IM gaskets (both sides) and knock sensors yesterday. Unfortunately, this didn't fix it. I've also read that a plugged up cat can cause this, but I don't think this is the case because it was running perfect when I parked it. My next thought would be to replace the front O2 sensor on the driver's side. Anyone have any other ideas on things to check?
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Jul 14, 2019 21:20
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Basically with the CVT the mechanic (with *cough* 25 years of experience) knows it is basically toast. They are not rebuildable in that environment. So basically saying to the service advisor "Need a need a new transmission and book the flat rate into our service hours."
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Jul 14, 2019 21:21
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Hyundai Elantra 2004 I took my car in to get the coolant replaced in the AC, had them check for leaks and whatnot. Now when I run the AC, it starts off cool, and then gets lukewarm. In addition, the engine temp is running noticeably higher than normal. I'm planning on taking it back, but anyone have an idea?
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Jul 14, 2019 21:32
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