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Phy posted:The ZRX: Pulled off the valve cover, checked the valve shims. Many out of spec on the loose side. A couple tight. Tomorrow going to figure out which ones I can switcheroo and how many of what size I need to get. Also, checked my cam lobe heights, and the PO swapped in ZX11 cams. Someone really liked this bike, and then I went and dropped a Weestrom on it. You lucky motherfucker. Now you just need a jet kit, too bad you've already gone through the carb installation trauma.
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Jul 10, 2019 19:52
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Slavvy posted:You lucky motherfucker. Now you just need a jet kit, too bad you've already gone through the carb installation trauma. IT HAS A JET KIT  Dynojet Stage 1, I checked when I was cleaning themFinding this poo poo out has me feeling like I've been obliviously chopping wood with the Sword of the King e: or like when Shoeless Joe walked back into the corn and Kevin Costner goes "We're keeping this field." Phy fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 00:13
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Phy posted:IT HAS A JET KIT Man don't ever ride a stock one or a stock b12 then cause you'll be fucken disappointed! More pro rex tips: disconnect the TPS, it retards the timing at some points for *reasons*, without it the cdi reverts to the basic advance curve. Get a hold of a crank pickup plate that has more advance or just modify your own to get like 5° more, makes a big difference but locks you into a minimum 95RON. Zephyr swingarm bolts in and makes a noticeable difference to handling what with being a lot stiffer. It also looks nicer. Turn the rear axle eccentrics upside down for some free sporty geometry!
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Jul 11, 2019 00:22
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Slavvy posted:Zephyr swingarm looks nicer. Woah what is wrong with you?
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Jul 11, 2019 14:44
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Dutymode posted:Woah what is wrong with you?   I'm biased because it's the only bike I truly regret selling.
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Jul 11, 2019 20:42
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Guess I’ll start logging my progress here. This is a new-to-me 2011 Ninja 250. - Replaced a sketchy weld-fixed right rearset with an oem I found on Kijiji. - Peeled back some sketchy tape that was identified to me on the rear brake line after I posted in the “what bike to buy” thread to find a gouge in the line so I’m playing it safe and ordered a Galfer steel rear hose kit. - Ripped out just about every DIY electrical splice the previous owner made and replaced them with proper connectors. Previous owner was definitely of the mindset that enough duct tape will fix anything. - Started to try and identify why the aftermarket high beam doesn’t come on when I hit the high switch tsbfirst. Comes on the second time though. Maybe dodgy wiring. So far I have the following on order: - Both sprockets - 520-106 x-ring JT chain - Galfer rear brake line kit - Replacement Chinese fairings because I’m vain and they weren’t too pricey - Cheap OEM tail so I can pass safety and get it on the road. Not going to lie, I never really planed for my first bike to turn into a project or semi-money-pit but since I did a bad job of inspecting at purchase here we are. I am pleasantly surprised at how much fun it is to wrench on the bike, and there are plenty of online resources for the 250 so I haven’t found anything above my head yet. I plan to put in some major work and get the bike safetied in a month or so, about the same time my m2 license should take effect. Looking forward to posting updates
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Jul 12, 2019 02:39
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Good luck fitting those Chinese fairings, you'll be lucky if every 3rd mounting hole is in the right place
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Jul 12, 2019 03:25
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Martytoof posted:Guess I’ll start logging my progress here. This is a new-to-me 2011 Ninja 250. It’s ok. It’s impossible for everyone to not just buy their first bike because they’re super excited. After that it’s just a crapshoot. Seems like you at least have a good handle on what to do and how to do it.
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Jul 12, 2019 03:44
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Martytoof posted:Guess I’ll start logging my progress here. This is a new-to-me 2011 Ninja 250. Maybe throw a new SS front brake line on there too. They firm up the brake response a bit, and having a suddenly more responsive rear brake but stock front line might cause you to lock up the rear a little easier. Its not critical or anything, but they are a real upgrade and brakes are one of those things that are nicer and easier to do all at once rather than one now, one later. And that way you know for certain theyre good to go and don't have to worry about it for a while again. If the PO repaired electrical stuff with duck tape and threw tape on a gouged rear line, you can bet the front was never serviced once. You know what, you should just go ahead and do new lines and pads front and rear. Don't have unknowns in your brake system.
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Jul 12, 2019 05:14
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SS brake lines are nice to have for sure but not necessary to just ride. You'll be fine with the standard one in the front if you're anxious to get on the road. Similarly, new pads are nice but unnecessary as long as the existing ones aren't worn out, cracked, or glazed. Brake pads either work or they don't. I would leave them and see what the safety inspectors say. If you do decide to overhaul the brake system, buy a pair of speed bleeders and install them the first time you drain the system. They are incredibly awesome and will cut brake bleeding down from an hour-long messy frustrating process to like five minutes per end. Some of the best ~25 dollars you'll ever spend. Twisting wires together and wrapping them in duct tape is by far the most common PO method of electrical repair so at least you don't have to feel like you got some special bad luck there lol. Do replace them though. Some people swear by different kinds of crimp connectors like Wagos but personally I just like the classic lineman's splice (soldered) + heat shrink. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Jul 12, 2019 |
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Jul 12, 2019 05:28
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More like "what did you do this week", but: ✅ new tires ✅ bled brake / new brake fluid ✅ rebuilt front forks ✅ rebuilt carbs ✅ sync'd carbs ✅ replaced cracked/loose handlebar bushings ✅ shimmed a loose grip ✅ replaced the missing exhaust gaskets, exhaust studs, and assorted exhaust hardware that the PO took off(?)  Today was the day this bike finally became rideable and it all paid off. Still needs to be rejetted for 6kft but it really purrs now. EDIT: It's a 1997 CB750V Nighthawk that I rescued from some idiot
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Jul 12, 2019 06:01
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M42 posted:Valve check on drz. All in spec. Lobes don’t look worn. That valvetrainy noise is probably caused by the bigass bored out setup Hold on to that thing if you still end up in the Tri-City area, the kart track is awesome on a sumo and probably the only one left in the state that lets supermotos ride it.
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Jul 12, 2019 21:37
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Oil change on the 250. I’m 40 years old and I’ve literally never changed the oil in any vehicle myself before so this felt good, for something so simple.
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Jul 13, 2019 04:13
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Martytoof posted:Oil change on the 250. gently caress yeah. Wrenching on your own poo poo is awesome.
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Jul 13, 2019 05:47
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:gently caress yeah. Wrenching on your own poo poo is awesome. That's what I repeat to myself after being three weekends, two lost 10mm sockets and a few sliced up knuckles into what should've been a 4 hour job
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Jul 13, 2019 06:56
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Jazzzzz posted:That's what I repeat to myself after being three weekends, two lost 10mm sockets and a few sliced up knuckles into what should've been a 4 hour job Oil change on a KTM?
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Jul 13, 2019 06:58
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I know we rag on KTMs a lot but hands down the dumbest poo poo I've run into so far has been Ducati. Why is there red loctite on EVERYTHING? Why is the retaining nut on the rear wheel torqued to 230nm when there's a retaining pin that keeps it from coming off on its own? (The 1/2" socket adapter on my electric impact immediately sheared the first time I tried to take the wheel off to mount a new tire, dumb me for thinking air tools or a giant cheater bar would be overkill for something so simple.) Why do I have to remove the loving center stand to take off the bash plate, which has to come off to do an oil change? Why does getting both the left and right side plastic off to get to the radiator also require taking off the entire loving nose? That's simple stuff, I've never had to get into the motor and I will be paying someone else to do it if I ever do 
Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Jul 13, 2019 |
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Jul 13, 2019 07:17
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Oil changes on my totally-not-a-KTM are pretty easy. Lay the bike on its side and fill the oil filter housing with oil is pretty much my favorite oil change instruction I've run across though. 
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Jul 13, 2019 17:10
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'll be trying this out this weekend: Trip report: this works like fuckin magic, I didn't even have to beat on the sprocket nut at all, just a little oomph into a decent length socket driver and it cracked straight away. Got the back sprocket changed already, gonna clean out the well before swapping in the new front sprocket because it's pretty thick with oil and metal shavings back there. Old/new comparison shots:    not sure what that lip around the sprocket is, it's not on the new one; whatever it is the chain plates beat the hell out of it And my setup at the back (I don't have a screwdriver small enough, turns out any decently solid metal rod will do): 
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Jul 13, 2019 17:40
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Looks like that groove was worn by the chain plates.
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Jul 13, 2019 21:40
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That lip is a rubber donut to try to make the chain a tiny bit quieter.
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Jul 14, 2019 00:41
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I ripped out the previous owner's lovely DIY HID headlamps and ordered the OEM sockets so I can put regular H7's back in. The high beam never engages correctly first try which is almost certainly going to get me failed for safety when I take it in. The more I go into my electrical the more I think previous owner should be tried at The Hague for crimes against bikes. Good news is there's only so much more electrical to look at. The bad news is that I had to re-do every spliced wire, and even found some cables connected by just twisting together, not even electrical tape'd  That the bike hadn't caught on fire before today is a minor miracle. Also figured out how to remove the remainder of my fairings, counted all missing bolts, screws, and rivets, and ordered them from partzilla. And a generic tub of Ninja 250 fairing screws from eBay for when I inevitably start to lose them myself.
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Jul 14, 2019 01:26
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Got my "new" eBay bags on the Ner-a-Car which look quite nice. And somehow managed to lose a critical part from the loving thing. There should be a throwout arm on this clutch pushrod shaft.  #LS122 here. Gonna have to have a machinist replicate it I think. 
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Jul 14, 2019 02:50
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Jul 14, 2019 06:10
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Swapped tires on my fz6n. Ran my old Michelin road 5 for 9k miles and could probably have run them 1000 more but wanted fresh tires for vacation unplanned long trips. The road 5 are very good tires, no problems with grip in wet and cold Norwegian spring/fall conditions. I put on pirelli angel GT II to test them next.
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Jul 14, 2019 20:23
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Cleaned up the Multistrada to get some pictures of it and get it listed for sale, fired it up to head out and grab said pictures somewhere more scenic than my garage, get a fuel sensor failure. Bike runs fine, just shows an error on the dash and the fuel gauge doesn't work. The fuel level sender unit on these bikes is a known issue, I think Ducati's on their 4th version of it now. The PO already had it replaced twice with previous revisions under warranty, which is long gone. If I'm lucky Ducati will cough up $60 for the sender unit, but I'll have to pay for the labor to get it done. Apparently I can't just do it myself, the new part requires a software update to the dash.
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Jul 14, 2019 21:19
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Finally fitted this bad boy: The hose routing and everything was a piece of cake, but the injector was an exercise in frustration. Took a lot of work to mount because of how tight my exhaust/swingarm/chain area is:  Now all I need is an aerostich and a white helmet, and my conversion to the dad side will be complete
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Jul 14, 2019 22:44
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1. Wow, I didn't know that a licence plate hidden Scott oiler reservoir existed. 2. WHHHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYYYYY?!?
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Jul 14, 2019 23:20
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Because I'm an unspeakably lazy piece of poo poo and this way lubing my chain can be a once a year event.
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Jul 14, 2019 23:56
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One word, my man: driveshafts.
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Jul 15, 2019 00:02
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  All the plastics and mounting hardware are set aside but all this took me the better part of an afternoon. Might clean up these carbs and unstick the engine, then sell on everything I don’t want. Might just haul everything off for scrap. Still need to grab: Vetter fairing mount, forks, wheels, handlebars, triple clamps.
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Jul 15, 2019 00:23
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Supradog posted:2. WHHHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYYYYY?!?
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Jul 15, 2019 00:41
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Reshimmed the Rex and rechecked every clearance; I'm 0.1mm out of spec on the loose side on two of em but I'm gonna let that go. Also installed solid locator pins (the hollow ones are meant to pass recirc air into the pistons from the emissions plumbing, but the bike already had that stuff removed, so...) put in all new gaskets, buttoned everything back up (taking time to get a rag out of the cam chain). Turned it over. Cylinder 1 running funny. Rev it up to 4000 for a bit. Cylinder 1 running better. Took it for a test ride, had a couple of "how did I get to this speed already" moments. Do carbs need to be rebalanced when you reshim the valves?
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Jul 15, 2019 04:18
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Phy posted:Reshimmed the Rex and rechecked every clearance; I'm 0.1mm out of spec on the loose side on two of em but I'm gonna let that go. Also installed solid locator pins (the hollow ones are meant to pass recirc air into the pistons from the emissions plumbing, but the bike already had that stuff removed, so...) put in all new gaskets, buttoned everything back up (taking time to get a rag out of the cam chain). Turned it over. Cylinder 1 running funny. Rev it up to 4000 for a bit. Cylinder 1 running better. Took it for a test ride, had a couple of "how did I get to this speed already" moments. Yes. Unless they were all out of spec the exact same amount.
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Jul 15, 2019 05:32
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what's chain maintenance?
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Jul 15, 2019 23:12
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I removed the PO’s gaudy aftermarket undertail and replaced it with the OEM tail for safety. I might still install a fender eliminator at some point but a more subdued one. Sleek is nice but I’m still a fan of discrete turn indicators and a license plate that isn’t buried by the suspension. Also continue to take account of all the missing hardware/bolts/screws so I can source the proper replacements. I’ll have to start adding photos to my posts before too long, but I always finish when it’s dark out and not really photogenic. Womp womp. Coming up next, probably: sprocket change, and still need to wire in my new turn indicators. E: a few of the screw holes were crossthreaded by the PO. I’m considering drilling them out and tapping them for larger screws. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 01:50
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Martytoof posted:I removed the PO’s gaudy aftermarket undertail and replaced it with the OEM tail for safety. I might still install a fender eliminator at some point but a more subdued one. Sleek is nice but I’m still a fan of discrete turn indicators and a license plate that isn’t buried by the suspension. This will also make cops pay less attention to you.
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Jul 17, 2019 04:21
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I got my new aftermarket front turn signals for the 1978 Suzuki GS750. The good news: it was only $50 for the pair and they look exactly like OEM. The bad news: exactly like OEM, the thread on the threaded conduit is 3/8" BSF. Which I don't have nuts for. I didn't want to risk messing up the conduit piece by trying to rethread it to something normal, so I've ordered some new 3/8" BSF nuts (appropriately enough, from britishfasteners.com). The rear turn signal brackets both were a little bent. The left side was ok, the right side was pretty far off, giving the signal a very noticeable downward angle (which was different from the left side). I popped both off, hammered the right into matching shape, removed some of the burrs and marks with a file, sanded off the bit of rust, and threw some black paint on. It's not perfect, I still have to get the left side bent up a touch more, but I was running short on time yesterday.  I removing the rear electronics box, I noticed the turn signal / brake light controller was aftermarket replacement and all of the splices in the wire were just twisted together and wrapped in electrical tape which was now coming off:  I clipped out most of the twisted splices, stripped a bit more of the wire, retwisted, and soldiered a bit to help hold. I didn't have a ton of heat shrink tubing, but was able to heat shrink most of them. Where 3 wires met I rewrapped with new tape. Followed up with zip tying everything together to clean things up a bit.  Then moved the controller box back into the electronics box. It had to half-assed into place on the side/bottom of the box with electrical tape.  A new battery is on the way. Between that and getting the turn signals mounted on the front, all that is really left is to clean and lube the chain, adjust the slack (it should be 20-30 mm, it is currently >40 mm), and get the aluminum and chrome cleaned up and polished (there's a bit of oxidation on both the Al engine bits and the chrome). The paint isn't perfect but it looks ok, maybe that will be a task for the winter to get the tank and electrical box repainted.
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Jul 17, 2019 12:40
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Good lord, what even is that thing? Looks like something NASA would have developed around the time of Apollo 15
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Jul 17, 2019 12:56
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Good lord, what even is that thing? Looks like something NASA would have developed around the time of Apollo 15 I pulled that mess of electrical tape off of it.  Lots of epoxy to keep the smoke in:  Looks like it basically converts the rear turn signals into running lights: http://www.soundoffrec.com/products/lights.aspx
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Jul 17, 2019 15:21
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