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I've soldered 3/4 copper pipe before and it's been fine and easy. Goop the poo poo out of it with flux, both pipe and fitting, heat fitting with MAPP gas, apply solder to other side, wipe solder wire around fitting after taking away heat. Pretty straight forward. I have to do some 1 1/4 pipe and i'm having issues. It's so big and there's so much copper that I'm having to put the heat on it for so long it's oxydizing and I think the flux is boiling all the way out. I'm having to move my torch all the way around the fitting all the time to heat it enough to melt the solder, and keep heating it as I solder around the fitting. Is there something different I should be doing with these larger fittings?
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Jul 11, 2019 03:30
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S52DSL6 So this looks like what I am looking for so that I can install a dishwasher air gap and also drain my RO filter. Does this look right?
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Jul 11, 2019 19:01
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CainFortea posted:I've soldered 3/4 copper pipe before and it's been fine and easy. Goop the poo poo out of it with flux, both pipe and fitting, heat fitting with MAPP gas, apply solder to other side, wipe solder wire around fitting after taking away heat. Pretty straight forward. 
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Jul 11, 2019 23:06
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I have a pipe coming up in the pantry that I think was intended as a washer drain. I want to use it as a drain for a dishwasher in that space, but the drain is clogged. I ran a scope in and it looks like kids stuffed some random stuff in there - there is crap like a bottle top, a popsicle wrapper, who knows what's below that. Water does still drain down, but at any appreciable flow it backs up. Is this the kind of thing I can dislodge with a snake? It seems tougher than the usual clog. If not, is there any way to clear it? I can access the pipe belong the block, in the basement, if that's useful.
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Jul 13, 2019 20:15
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This is just a random question out of curiosity. Every place I have lived has had the following be true: while taking a shower the temperature of the water slowly goes down and requires turning the hot water up to maintain temperature, presumably because the water heater is being depleted and the temperature of the hot water going down as fresh water goes in. My current place has the opposite going on - the longer you shower the hotter the water gets. I'm having a hard time imagining the mechanism which causes this. Anyone have an idea why this would be taking place? Eventually, like after at least a couple full showers, the hot water does deplete, but it takes quite a while for this to happen.
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Jul 14, 2019 23:32
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CaptainSarcastic posted:This is just a random question out of curiosity. You could have tap water that is hot outside, so as you deplete what's in your pipes it warms up. Your copper pipes are insulated and warming up to the hot water flowing through them, eventually reaching equilibrium. Your new place has a hot water heater that kicks on basically immediately to demand, and goes well past the set point? Also I'm sorry you live in places with insufficient heating capacity, gas water heaters are amazing as you effectively never run out with 1 shower going.
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Jul 15, 2019 00:36
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Hey guys, I'm looking to make a very small (2.5ish gallon) pressurized water tank. Probably keep it right around 50 psi. My thought was to take about 1ft of 4in schedule 40, put a couple of end caps on it, and somehow get a 3/4 inlet and 3/4 outlet into that cap. Ideally they would be threaded for a standard water hose. Anyone have any ideas? I'm not sure if drilling holes into the end cap would weaken it. It would be nice if there was a 4 in to dual 3/4 adapter. 30 TO 50 FERAL HOG fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jul 15, 2019 |
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Jul 15, 2019 02:22
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Hey guys, I'm looking to make a very small (2.5ish gallon) pressurized water tank. Probably keep it right around 50 psi. There is a reason any container over 15psi needs to be stamped as meeting the boiler and pressure vessel code. Do not do this on your own or you might just make a pipe bomb.
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Jul 15, 2019 02:40
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And is it turns out, these things exist as production commercial products that are safe to use and have been made for nearly 100 years. https://www.amazon.com/Buckeye-5000...FYP0BKR6FVCFCM6
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Jul 15, 2019 02:43
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Blindeye posted:There is a reason any container over 15psi needs to be stamped as meeting the boiler and pressure vessel code. Do not do this on your own or you might just make a pipe bomb. Good to know. Just curious, why is this? One would think that since schedule 40 @ 4in is rated for >100 PSI it would be fine. Motronic posted:And is it turns out, these things exist as production commercial products that are safe to use and have been made for nearly 100 years. this is entirely too expensive for this dumb idiot project im working on, but thanks
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Jul 15, 2019 02:51
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Good to know. Just curious, why is this? One would think that since schedule 40 @ 4in is rated for >100 PSI it would be fine. Of liquid, not air. Not even in part air. I think you need to understand that PVC shrapnel is super bad. This is why we don't use PVC pipe for air lines in shops.
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Jul 15, 2019 02:57
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Yeah it should be understood that if something with 100 psi of water in it fails, you get a little wet but there's not likely to be much damage other than to the vessel and things nearby. However, if something with 100 PSI of air fails, you get a literal explosion with shrapnel. The reason is is because air is very compressible, where as water is not. It's the difference between popping a water balloon and an air balloon.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:03
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Motronic posted:Of liquid, not air. Not even in part air. So I wasn't planning on pressurizing with air. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MZYS37/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A2EFSDTWMPHWEA&psc=1 Basically have a bucket/reservoir of some kind, use the pump to fill up my pressure vessel to ~40-50 PSI (or maybe a little higher and then regulating it down to 40-50 PSI).
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Jul 15, 2019 03:04
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That will dribble out a few cups of water at 50 PSI. At the most. Even in RVs with PEX lines (which are more expandable/flexible to hold pressure) those pumps run EVERY TIME you open a faucet. If you want to have them cycle like a normal well pump you plumb in a proper water/air pressure vessel: https://www.amtrol.com/product/well-x-trol-well-tanks/ As Spartainivy said, water isn't very compressible. In this application it's usefulness as a function of storage pressure to dispense it is basically nill. Stop being cagey if you want real help. Whatever you are trying to do here you don't know enough about the physics or the commercial realities to pull it off. It's possible we can help if we know what you're trying to do.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:15
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So I'm totally fine with the pump running all the time, the idea with the small tank is just to "smooth out" variations in pressure from when the pump turns on/off. Anyways, what I'm planning on doing here is running a small misting system in a location where electricity and running water are not readily available. A bucket/drum of water is my water supply and the pump can be run off a battery to pressurize the water to run the mister.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:24
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:So I'm totally fine with the pump running all the time, the idea with the small tank is just to "smooth out" variations in pressure from when the pump turns on/off. It's not likely to do that. It depends on the GPM output of the sprayers, would would need to be startlingly low for this to work. BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Anyways, what I'm planning on doing here is running a small misting system in a location where electricity and running water are not readily available. A bucket/drum of water is my water supply and the pump can be run off a battery to pressurize the water to run the mister. And the full volume of water is not in this pipe, but somewhere else? Yeah, you're doing it wrong. https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B000N9VF6Q $50 or less. Air is compressible, water is basically not. That' why these tanks use an air bladder over the water. Just plumb one in and you're set. You'd need 100+ feet of PVC to do the same thing this 16" long tanks does. You can probably get away with precharging one (with air) to 50 PSI. If you're going really cheap and you have a large enough holding tank that can hold pressure you'd be better off throwing in a tire inner tube or balls or whatever the gently caress pumped up to 30 or 40 PSI. Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jul 15, 2019 |
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Jul 15, 2019 03:33
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Dope, I was looking for something like that and all I was finding are the RO system tanks and stuff like that which are pretty big. This is the exact size I need. For reference, the misting system is something like 1.9 gallons per hour. Not moving a lot of volume here,.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:37
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:For reference, the misting system is something like 1.9 gallons per hour. Not moving a lot of volume here,. Then a tank that size is going to lower your duty cycle on the pump from being on every second or so to more like every couple of minutes. That's totally what you need in that application. Plumb it AFTER the pump (for that style with an inlet and outlet). If you find one with just a single connection just throw a T on after the pump and put it on one leg of the T.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:42
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:So I'm totally fine with the pump running all the time, the idea with the small tank is just to "smooth out" variations in pressure from when the pump turns on/off. This is burning man isn't it?
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Jul 15, 2019 03:47
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Perfect. Thanks man.H110Hawk posted:This is burning man isn't it? God no. Basically I'm just doing this to see if it can be done.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:47
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Motronic posted:Air is compressible, water is basically not. That' why these tanks use an air bladder over the water. This man is telling truth. The BPVC does not specify what the fluid is you're pressurizing but compressed air at 15psi is more dangerous because of its compressibility. For the same reason, water at 15psi isn't really gonna propel out of the vessel because it won't expand or contract significantly as a liquid, which is why I thought you were pressurizing it with air. Either way, using off the shelf piping is fine but once you start modifying it from its original use there is no guarantee of its safety.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:50
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:So I'm totally fine with the pump running all the time, the idea with the small tank is just to "smooth out" variations in pressure from when the pump turns on/off.
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Jul 15, 2019 03:54
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Blindeye posted:This man is telling truth. The BPVC does not specify what the fluid is you're pressurizing but compressed air at 15psi is more dangerous because of its compressibility. For the same reason, water at 15psi isn't really gonna propel out of the vessel because it won't expand or contract significantly as a liquid, which is why I thought you were pressurizing it with air. Either way, using off the shelf piping is fine but once you start modifying it from its original use there is no guarantee of its safety. Thinking more.......let's go super cheap here........ You COULD throw a bicycle inner tube into a length of schedule 40, precharge to 30-40 PSI and essentially it would be similar and not super dangerous. I'd estimate you want to have like 2/3 water volume in the pipe when pressurized like most well tanks do. This is not a great idea, and presents more risks than a $40-50 proper pressure tank, but it seems like you could roll your own this way for temporary purposes.
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Jul 15, 2019 04:00
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I dont think I could get all of the fittings and stuff for sub $30 and that's what this runs so.... https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Accumulator-Control-Internal-Bladder/dp/B01MUYL8F8/
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Jul 15, 2019 04:03
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That's a winner.
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Jul 15, 2019 04:15
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CaptainSarcastic posted:This is just a random question out of curiosity. Sounds like you have a cross-connection somewhere. This means your cold water piping is being filled with hot water causing the mix on your shower to not be correct. This is usually caused by a failing shower cartridge or mixing valve if there is one installed somewhere in the home. It also may be the washing machine internal valves failing, but this is rare. I would suggest running your shower for a bit, then find any accessible cold water piping you can and touch it. If it feels hot, trace it back as far as you can to try to locate where it's starting.
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Jul 15, 2019 06:43
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BubbaGrace posted:Sounds like you have a cross-connection somewhere. This means your cold water piping is being filled with hot water causing the mix on your shower to not be correct. This is usually caused by a failing shower cartridge or mixing valve if there is one installed somewhere in the home. It also may be the washing machine internal valves failing, but this is rare. I will give that a try. This has been going on since I moved in like a year ago, and has persisted through a complete change of the shower faucet setup, too. It's not a huge deal, but can be a little annoying and, like I said, is the exact opposite of what I'm used to with water heaters, both gas and electric.
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Jul 15, 2019 06:52
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Speaking of water pressure, my new house is just a couple miles from the old one and on the same town supply, but it seems like the water pressure/volume is less. The pressure is fine if you only do 1 thing at a time (shower, washer, sink, garden hose, etc.) but if the toilet tank is refilling or the washer enters a rinse cycle there is a significant drop in pressure at the kitchen sink, and somebody showering basically stops everything else. Is there something obvious I should look for?
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Jul 16, 2019 17:17
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Nevets posted:Speaking of water pressure, my new house is just a couple miles from the old one and on the same town supply, but it seems like the water pressure/volume is less. The pressure is fine if you only do 1 thing at a time (shower, washer, sink, garden hose, etc.) but if the toilet tank is refilling or the washer enters a rinse cycle there is a significant drop in pressure at the kitchen sink, and somebody showering basically stops everything else. Look for a PRV (pressure regulator valve) at your service entrance. They can become faulty or require adjustment. Also make sure the service shut off is completely open. Past that, the water company will have PRVs in the ground all over the place. These can also go bad or require adjustment. A call to them to check pressures would be a good idea. And asking neighbors if they have similar problems.
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Jul 16, 2019 17:25
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I'm planning on doing babby's first toilet replacement soon, and wondering what the consensus is for a standard wax seal vs some of the silicone/rubber alternatives available? Also, I'm pretty sure the current ancient wax seal is broken since I see a little bit of a leak coming out from the bottom of the toilet. What kind of biohazard disaster can I expect once I get the old toilet taken off?
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Jul 17, 2019 01:45
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The underside of the toilet will be fun. Especially scraping off all of the old wax. The floor will look lovely, but it all cleans up nice. My trick for removing wax is to put my hand in a plastic grocery bag and use a disposable paint scraper to remove as much as possible. When you've got everything you can, just strip the bag off of your lower arm & everything will be contained inside the bag. If the closet flange is in good condition, use an oversized wax seal. Make all of the mating surfaces are as clean as you can get them.
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Jul 17, 2019 03:52
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Alpine Mustache posted:I'm planning on doing babby's first toilet replacement soon, and wondering what the consensus is for a standard wax seal vs some of the silicone/rubber alternatives available? Fluidmasters have been flawless for me, a dude who hates the gently caress out of waste plumbing because mistakes aren't nearly as obvious as fresh water where you can turn it back on and see what leaks nearly immediately. Helpful hint.....if you're going to calk the toilet down make sure you don't do it all the way around. Make sure there is a section where you can see it's leaking out onto our floor. If you do no do this you will have the bathroom in my old house, where you only know it started leaking because the floor is soft and rotting.
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Jul 17, 2019 03:57
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As with all things sewer system related, wear a mask just in case
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Jul 17, 2019 03:57
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Is the bottom-exit toilet still the go-to in the US? I've only seen the waste pipe connected at the back.
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Jul 17, 2019 11:03
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Alpine Mustache posted:I'm planning on doing babby's first toilet replacement soon, and wondering what the consensus is for a standard wax seal vs some of the silicone/rubber alternatives available? Piggybacking off of this, aside from trawling through online reviews, does anyone here have an opinion on the best brands/models of toilet out there currently? The last one I bought was some American Standard that could chug a bucket of golfballs and never clogged, so I'm leaning towards that but just wanted to cover my bases.
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Jul 17, 2019 12:48
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is the bottom-exit toilet still the go-to in the US? I've only seen the waste pipe connected at the back. For residential, yes.
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Jul 17, 2019 13:38
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Piggybacking off of this, aside from trawling through online reviews, does anyone here have an opinion on the best brands/models of toilet out there currently? The last one I bought was some American Standard that could chug a bucket of golfballs and never clogged, so I'm leaning towards that but just wanted to cover my bases. Seconding; I have a Kohler Cimarron that can barely flush piss. Have to hold the handle all the way, and even then it's horrible. Have to clean it constantly. e: spent two hours: - cleaning each individual bowl drain hole & the main siphon (hole that faces the drain); - dumped about five gallons of scalding-hot water down the bowl; - replaced the fill tube (small tube that's supposed to add water to the bowl whilst the tank is filling); - checked the tank level and made sure the wacky pipe/valve is lifting as high as possible when the handle is pushed. Still barely flushes. It's got one week to prove itself, them it's gone. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Jul 18, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 15:31
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Is it really feasible to just take out the styrofoam on the inside of your toilet tank to make it go from low flow to high flow?
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Jul 17, 2019 16:41
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Motronic posted:Fluidmasters have been flawless for me, a dude who hates the gently caress out of waste plumbing because mistakes aren't nearly as obvious as fresh water where you can turn it back on and see what leaks nearly immediately. When you say fluidmaster, are you referring to the plastic/rubber gasket/flange, or the heavy duty wax seal?
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Jul 17, 2019 20:30
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Alpine Mustache posted:When you say fluidmaster, are you referring to the plastic/rubber gasket/flange, or the heavy duty wax seal? The was-free one, 7530: https://www.fluidmaster.com/products/toilet/toilet-seals/7530-better-than-wax-wax-free-seal/ Edit: and in response to what you're going to find - wax rings are nasty. I doubt you'll have any solids or properly nasty stuff from that kind of leak, but it's possible. My biggest concern wold be floor damage. FYI, your closet bolts are probably rusted/bad, and that seal come with new ones. Just make sure you have gloves, a scraper you intend to throw away and the empty box from something nearby so you can scrape all the old nasty wax off. And in case you didn't know, the toilet itself is the p-trap, so once you take it off you should probably plug the hole with a rag while you work. Also: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Gel-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-For/3695260 That poo poo is magic. Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 20:58
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