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What type of plants are you interested in growing?
This poll is closed.
Perennials! 142 20.91%
Annuals! 30 4.42%
Woody plants! 62 9.13%
Succulent plants! 171 25.18%
Tropical plants! 60 8.84%
Non-vascular plants are the best! 31 4.57%
Screw you, I'd rather eat them! 183 26.95%
Total: 679 votes
[Edit Poll (moderators only)]

 
Pham Nuwen
Oct 30, 2010



Herbicidal Maniac posted:

How do I do some sort of plant ID? my ex had bought some plants for the apartment but I've no idea what half of them are. She didn't give a poo poo about them, so I lost two already (and was oddly mad about that) so I don't want to make that same mistake.

They're limping along now, I think I need to take them out of the plastic pots and put them in ceramic ones with some more nitrogen rich soil... But that's all I've got

Just post pics in this thread, posters seem pretty good about identifying stuff.

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Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


I tried an app called PictureThis that seemed decent, can try that too.

WrenP-Complete
Jul 27, 2012

I use an app called PlantNet that seems good too.

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord
I use an app called Seek that's sometimes spot on and sometimes thinks my keyboard is a bat.

Like I'm not even kidding, this is a thing that happened.

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


So speaking of ID, anyone recognize this? It was growing literally in a sand dune in southern spain and I'm hoping to root a few cuttings in a pot for fun. Left one stem in water for a while and that didn't do anything, so I've been spritzing the ends a bit and hoping





Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Carpobrotus edulis

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

PIGFACE! One of my favourite plants. :3: Its completely edible and has a ton of uses

Synthbuttrange fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Jul 20, 2019

Winter Stormer
Oct 17, 2012

Synthbuttrange posted:

PIGFACE! One of my favourite plants. :3: Its completely edible and has a ton of uses

Also super invasive, so please don't put it in the ground!!

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


Sweet! And yea, I definitely won't. Growing up with japanese knotweed I'm well aware of those risks

[edit] looks like it wants to sprawl and may not do much in a pot, though

Nosre fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Jul 20, 2019

Kin
Nov 4, 2003

Sometimes, in a city this dirty, you need a real hero.
I've got a general question about weed killer and I'm wondering if anyone can steer me right.

Basically, my ongoing turf issues are at a point where my original dying turf has been removed.

While I'm still waiting for new turf to get installed weeds have infested the garden.

So I picked up weed killer to try getting rid of them, but noticed the back of the bottle said not to use it on any areas for planned vegetation but it also said to wait 7 days before cultivating the land.

Is it safe to use that weed killer on the soil before turf eventually gets put back down on it?

The ground is going to be rotovated again when the turf eventually gets put back in, so I'm wondering if I should even bother doing anything with the weeds (though it is like a field of green out there).

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


What weed killer is it? What chemicals are listed on the label?

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy
How long do have until new turf comes in? After you deal with the weeds, you might want to get some tarps to put over the area to suppress any more growth until the grass comes.

Suspect Bucket
Jan 15, 2012

SHRIMPDOR WAS A MAN
I mean, HE WAS A SHRIMP MAN
er, maybe also A DRAGON
or possibly
A MINOR LEAGUE BASEBALL TEAM
BUT HE WAS STILL
SHRIMPDOR
Burn it all

Kin
Nov 4, 2003

Sometimes, in a city this dirty, you need a real hero.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

What weed killer is it? What chemicals are listed on the label?

https://imgur.com/gallery/Al2XIeO

Few pics in that link of the state of the garden area and of the weedkiller i'm planing to use.

It's called Roundup and i picked up the fast acting one before i saw the Total one which the fast acting one suggested for deep rooted weeds (i'm pretty sure the garden has those now).

The Total one has Glyphosate acid and IPA salt of glyphosate in it but the speedy version looks to have acetic acid in it instead. I was planning on using the Total one because of what it says about rooted weeds.


there wolf posted:

How long do have until new turf comes in? After you deal with the weeds, you might want to get some tarps to put over the area to suppress any more growth until the grass comes.

This is a bit up in the air until my dispute with the home builders (Taylor Wimpey) is resolved.

There's a drainage issue with the subsoil which was leading to the turf being boggy (i've been able to pick up handfulls of moist soil after 5+ days of direct ~17C degree sunshine)
Taylor Wimpy lifted the dying turf saying it was just due to a leather jacket infestation whilst avoiding the drainage issue but said any boggyness i was feeling was due to the bugs and a bug free turf would have no boggy feeling.
I got an investigation into it carried out by the NHBC who dismissed the evidence of pooling water because my pictures were taken 'too soon' after periods of 'heavy rain'. Their report said i was to let Taylor Wimpey install the turf again and see if that rectifies the drainage problem before exploring other options.

I'm meeting with a solicitor next week to find out what my options are, so long story short, it might be as soon as a few weeks or a month or two depending on the outcome of the legal route.

Jezza of OZPOS
Mar 21, 2018

GET LOSE❌🗺️, YOUS CAN'T COMPARE😤 WITH ME 💪POWERS🇦🇺
My dads nickname is ‘roundup’ bc he’s cheap and he hates weed

thatbastardken
Apr 23, 2010

A contract signed by a minor is not binding!
is he banned in the EU as well?

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

Kin posted:

I've got a general question about weed killer and I'm wondering if anyone can steer me right.

Basically, my ongoing turf issues are at a point where my original dying turf has been removed.

While I'm still waiting for new turf to get installed weeds have infested the garden.

So I picked up weed killer to try getting rid of them, but noticed the back of the bottle said not to use it on any areas for planned vegetation but it also said to wait 7 days before cultivating the land.

Is it safe to use that weed killer on the soil before turf eventually gets put back down on it?

The ground is going to be rotovated again when the turf eventually gets put back in, so I'm wondering if I should even bother doing anything with the weeds (though it is like a field of green out there).


The Total should be fine. Wear boots/long pants/gloves and wash them when you are done. Don't breath/drink it.

You want to wait 7 days before ripping up the soil because the glyphosate needs to be absorbed into all of the plant (i.e. the roots) to make sure they die. If you rototill it before then you might leave unaffected roots in the soil which can grow back.

It says "for use on unwanted vegitation and areas not intended for vegitation", but that's really an "and/or". In other words, on weeds in planting areas AND weeds in pavers, gravel, etc.

Best practice is to to spray the area, wait two weeks, and then spot spray any new growth again. Ideally the last spray pass should be 14-28 days before you plant overtop of it; however, glyphosate breaks down in the soil and needs to be absorbed by foliage to be effective.

If you have plenty of time, you could also cover the area with a clear plastic tarp and let the trapped heat sterilize the underlying soil.

Kin
Nov 4, 2003

Sometimes, in a city this dirty, you need a real hero.

Hubis posted:

The Total should be fine. Wear boots/long pants/gloves and wash them when you are done. Don't breath/drink it.

You want to wait 7 days before ripping up the soil because the glyphosate needs to be absorbed into all of the plant (i.e. the roots) to make sure they die. If you rototill it before then you might leave unaffected roots in the soil which can grow back.

It says "for use on unwanted vegitation and areas not intended for vegitation", but that's really an "and/or". In other words, on weeds in planting areas AND weeds in pavers, gravel, etc.

Best practice is to to spray the area, wait two weeks, and then spot spray any new growth again. Ideally the last spray pass should be 14-28 days before you plant overtop of it; however, glyphosate breaks down in the soil and needs to be absorbed by foliage to be effective.

If you have plenty of time, you could also cover the area with a clear plastic tarp and let the trapped heat sterilize the underlying soil.

Awesome thanks for the guidance.

I was worried if I'd do something to gently caress up the soil it would come back to bite me in the arse when dealing with Taylor Wimpey.

Though knowing them, they'd do a half arsed job rotovating it and leave all the roots. Then when the turf fails to take root they'd say the weeds were my responsibility.

The tarp sounds like a good idea though. Those weeds showed up pretty loving fast over the last month.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

Kin posted:

Awesome thanks for the guidance.

I was worried if I'd do something to gently caress up the soil it would come back to bite me in the arse when dealing with Taylor Wimpey.

They do make "extended control" glyphosate + preemergent mixes for areas you want to stay clear, so legitimate concern.

Kin posted:

Though knowing them, they'd do a half arsed job rotovating it and leave all the roots. Then when the turf fails to take root they'd say the weeds were my responsibility.

AFAIK (from being an amateur lawn guy) the best practice for turf replacement is to glyphosate everything as described then remove the turf (or rototill) and seed/sod over it. Based on prior history It's quite probable they would just till everything in and call it a day, so going in with some chemical control beforehand for exactly that reason is probably a smart move.

Kin posted:

The tarp sounds like a good idea though. Those weeds showed up pretty loving fast over the last month.
If this is the way you want to go, look up "Soil Solarization.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPQ40KFOGmU&t=142s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebWthIKP5vs

It's a pretty well-established way to remove basically any non-woody plant-life in an area without aggressive chemical controls, and actually has the advantage over Glyphosate in that it can sterilize seeds and unemerged roots as well as plants.

The one hiccup here is that it requires time and heat to work. It might be too late in the season/too close to your sodding date to be effective.

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy

Hubis posted:

They do make "extended control" glyphosate + preemergent mixes for areas you want to stay clear, so legitimate concern.


AFAIK (from being an amateur lawn guy) the best practice for turf replacement is to glyphosate everything as described then remove the turf (or rototill) and seed/sod over it. Based on prior history It's quite probable they would just till everything in and call it a day, so going in with some chemical control beforehand for exactly that reason is probably a smart move.

If this is the way you want to go, look up "Soil Solarization.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPQ40KFOGmU&t=142s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebWthIKP5vs

It's a pretty well-established way to remove basically any non-woody plant-life in an area without aggressive chemical controls, and actually has the advantage over Glyphosate in that it can sterilize seeds and unemerged roots as well as plants.

The one hiccup here is that it requires time and heat to work. It might be too late in the season/too close to your sodding date to be effective.

I didn't even realize this was a thing. I was thinking a solid tarp to block the sunlight so weeds aren't inclined to grow. That was my plan for clearing a brick path in my yard since it's overgrown pretty badly at this point.

large oblate cat
Jul 7, 2009

Whose account is this? Because thank you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz9I2YwmV8M

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

there wolf posted:

I didn't even realize this was a thing. I was thinking a solid tarp to block the sunlight so weeds aren't inclined to grow. That was my plan for clearing a brick path in my yard since it's overgrown pretty badly at this point.

Brick path?

https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-19425-JT850-Self-Igniting-Outdoor/dp/B00008ZA0F

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy

I'll save that for the ivy taking over the back yard.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Anyone know what these flowers are? I never planted them but I have let them live because I think they look nice, some kind of clingy flower that likes to grow over the rock walls. This is in Finland so might be they're not around in north america.



Here they are again, we also got wild raspberries growing against the wall, again I didn't feel like removing those either. Infact everything here is just stuff that has grown and which I've left, it looks nice and not in such a obviously fake and planted way. Only thing I've planted are a few clingy types of juniper bushes that will grow over the rock faces.

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy
Looks like vetch. It's popular with bees and fixes nitrogen in the soil like legume plants do.

Kin
Nov 4, 2003

Sometimes, in a city this dirty, you need a real hero.

Hubis posted:

They do make "extended control" glyphosate + preemergent mixes for areas you want to stay clear, so legitimate concern.


AFAIK (from being an amateur lawn guy) the best practice for turf replacement is to glyphosate everything as described then remove the turf (or rototill) and seed/sod over it. Based on prior history It's quite probable they would just till everything in and call it a day, so going in with some chemical control beforehand for exactly that reason is probably a smart move.

If this is the way you want to go, look up "Soil Solarization.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPQ40KFOGmU&t=142s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebWthIKP5vs

It's a pretty well-established way to remove basically any non-woody plant-life in an area without aggressive chemical controls, and actually has the advantage over Glyphosate in that it can sterilize seeds and unemerged roots as well as plants.

The one hiccup here is that it requires time and heat to work. It might be too late in the season/too close to your sodding date to be effective.

Out of curiosity, after I spray the weed killer and leave it a week. Will the weeds naturally decompose into the soil or is it better for me to go round the whole garden pulling them all out?

Pham Nuwen
Oct 30, 2010



Kin posted:

Out of curiosity, after I spray the weed killer and leave it a week. Will the weeds naturally decompose into the soil or is it better for me to go round the whole garden pulling them all out?

I don't know where you live but here in New Mexico, the weeds will dessicate into hard little stalks which hang around for a long time, basically until you walk on them enough to crush them.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

Kin posted:

Out of curiosity, after I spray the weed killer and leave it a week. Will the weeds naturally decompose into the soil or is it better for me to go round the whole garden pulling them all out?

You can let them lay where they die. If they were seeding I *might* go through and pull them out, but it's not critical. Anything that doesn't decompose by the time the soil is cultivated before sodding certainly will afterwards.

Herbicidal Maniac
Jun 3, 2008

You will be the effigy I burn, infused with all the traits that make them the detestable little goblins they are.

Ok so I had a busy weekend but finally got my rear end in gear to take pictures. This is in Germany if that plays any role. Any ID on them would be great!

https://imgur.com/a/pXv9uK5






Hirayuki
Mar 28, 2010


The first one looks like a calla lily, the second is definitely kalanchoe.

eta: http://www.gflora.com/index.php?cmd=genus_body&genus_id=52 / http://www.gflora.com/index.php?cmd=genus_body&genus_id=96

LoreOfSerpents
Dec 29, 2001

No.

Herbicidal Maniac posted:

Ok so I had a busy weekend but finally got my rear end in gear to take pictures. This is in Germany if that plays any role. Any ID on them would be great!

https://imgur.com/a/pXv9uK5
Your ex wasn't exactly fond of easy-to-care-for plants, apparently. I agree with Hirayuki on the first two - be aware that the calla lily is toxic to pets so you shouldn't keep that around dogs or cats.
The leaf and bud shape on this one remind me of a hibiscus, but there are tons of hibiscus types and relatives that I can't distinguish. Do the flowers resemble anything you see on Google for Hibiscus rosa-sinensis?

If that's what it is, yeah that one isn't easy to care for either.

Hirayuki
Mar 28, 2010


LoreOfSerpents posted:

Your ex wasn't exactly fond of easy-to-care-for plants, apparently.
Oh, I don't know: my son picked out an itty baby kalanchoe for me years ago--think "fairy garden"--and it's still going strong. Well, pieces of it are; I wound up trimming off all the stems when they got leggy, rooting them in water, and planting them all out in a bonsai tray. But they seem to be happy as clams on my east-facing windowsill with the occasional watering. I would caution that you may never see that one flower again, though--they seem stingy with their blooms, even when they're in one piece.

Herbicidal Maniac
Jun 3, 2008

You will be the effigy I burn, infused with all the traits that make them the detestable little goblins they are.

Go figure, why choose the introductory plants? Too easy, jump right in. Looks like those are exactly it though, thank you! I think it is a hibiscus plant, as well. And thankfully no pets to try for anything toxic.

I think I'd be alright not seeing the Kalanchoe blossoms again, it looks like a plant in Jurassic Park anyway so I'll just keep those thick leaves.

Well, time to try to bring the hibiscus flowers back, they would be beautiful!

treat
Jul 24, 2008

by the sex ghost

His Divine Shadow posted:

Anyone know what these flowers are? I never planted them but I have let them live because I think they look nice, some kind of clingy flower that likes to grow over the rock walls. This is in Finland so might be they're not around in north america.



Astragalus alpinus, mountain pea. It's a native milkvetch like there wolf said, keep it.

Pham Nuwen
Oct 30, 2010



What's this weird melon/gourd-looking plant that's sprung up in my backyard?



Jaxyon
Mar 7, 2016
I’m just saying I would like to see a man beat a woman in a cage. Just to be sure.
Thoughts on weed barrier? My yard has some incredibly aggressive weeds that grew taller than my plants after I was unable to weed for a few weeks. I don't have a ton of time to do yard work so it seems like a good idea, but also some folks say it makes weeds worse and makes it harder for the plants to grow.

Some folks say just a heavy layer of mulch is what you need.

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy

Pham Nuwen posted:

What's this weird melon/gourd-looking plant that's sprung up in my backyard?





Buffalo bur. It's in the nightshade family, so kill it if you have any herbivores around dumb enough to try the thorns.

Jaxyon posted:

Thoughts on weed barrier? My yard has some incredibly aggressive weeds that grew taller than my plants after I was unable to weed for a few weeks. I don't have a ton of time to do yard work so it seems like a good idea, but also some folks say it makes weeds worse and makes it harder for the plants to grow.

Some folks say just a heavy layer of mulch is what you need.

Weed barrier kind of sucks for actually keeping weeds down. They'll grow where ever there's a gap and then the barrier just makes it harder to pull them up. Just put down a heavy layer of mulch or pine straw; it'll deter just as much and when/if weeds do come through, or you want to plant something else, or you need to dig up the bed, it's easy to push out of the way. (If you're feeling ambitious, you can also plant a ground cover that will crowd out weeds but that takes longer.)

Hexigrammus
May 22, 2006

Cheech Wizard stories are clean, wholesome, reflective truths that go great with the marijuana munchies and a blow job.

there wolf posted:

Weed barrier kind of sucks for actually keeping weeds down. They'll grow where ever there's a gap and then the barrier just makes it harder to pull them up. Just put down a heavy layer of mulch or pine straw; it'll deter just as much and when/if weeds do come through, or you want to plant something else, or you need to dig up the bed, it's easy to push out of the way. (If you're feeling ambitious, you can also plant a ground cover that will crowd out weeds but that takes longer.)

Seconding this. I've heard landscapers love landscape fabric under pea gravel as they get paid twice - once to install it and again to remove it.

I put down landscape fabric under horticultural chips for the paths between our permanent beds to try to deal with the buttercups. I didn't use fabric near any of the berry bushes, just thick chip mulch. I don't see any difference except that the weeds trying to sneak out from under the fabric tend to break off at the edge of the fabric, weeds growing through the mulch without fabric are more likely to come out intact.

Amazing how far raspberry roots travel under the fabric. Strawberries just skip along the top of the mulch like flat stones across water.

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy
I put landscape fabric under rocks in a storm runoff gully, and it worked great for keeping them from sinking into the mud. Actually with that in mind, what's a plant that loooves water that isn't literally a water plant? I was thinking hydrangeas, but I don't know how well they do under flash flood conditions.

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Pham Nuwen
Oct 30, 2010



there wolf posted:

Buffalo bur. It's in the nightshade family, so kill it if you have any herbivores around dumb enough to try the thorns.

Thanks, I'll get it out immediately!

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