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dupersaurus posted:Any tips or tricks for hand-sharpening a tiny v-gouge? The concept is pretty easy, but it's a 2mm tool and I think I'm struggling with not having feeling for things that would be more obvious on a bigger tool (like keeping the bevel flat) What do you use to sharpen? Unless it's really dull, a few strokes on a strop with green compound or green stuff on a buffing wheel is all I do. Even big V chisels are hard to sharpen and I try not to have to do it often. Stay away from the grinder because you will gently caress things up in a hurry-even with stones it is easy to get one wing of the V at an angle or have the two sides not meet exactly right at the angle. I try to think of them as 2 straight chisels connected by a tiny gouge-you have basically 3 faces/tools to deal with on the outside and then knock the burr/wire edge off the inside by buffing/stropping or tiny V shaped slipstones. Carving tools aren't usually super sensitive about having slightly rounded bevels in my experience, so it doesn't have to be super perfect. It might also be easier to hold the tool up in front of you and rub the stone on it instead of trying to bring the tool to the stone where it's hard to see what's really going on.
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Jul 20, 2019 21:55
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shovelbum posted:That makes sense. I had never even heard of a Kreg jig until recently and it has already more than paid for itself. I told my dad about it, who learned very utilitarian woodworking as a kid in the 60s and 70s and he was amazed to hear of such a thing. Don't take that as gospel b/c I'm not actually particularly knowledgeable about "modern woodworking printed literature" beyond the gigantic stack of american woodworker magazines that serve as dad's bathroom reading material, but books just aren't the preferred communication medium for almost any special-interest subject any more, so I wouldn't expect there to be much that's current irt your specific interest. IRT active communities that'd be useful for this, Reddit subreddits and their "related subreddit"/third-person link networks of resources will probably serve more than adequately, with a little digging. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a subreddit for woodworking shop outfitting/woodworker's power tools etc specifically.
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Jul 20, 2019 22:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:IMO they are the hardest damned tool to sharpen except a macaroni tool-there's not an easy way. I’ve got a small diamond stone, a couple of Japanese stones (400 and 1000 iirc), and one of those flexcut stropping thingies. I think the long edges are fine, but the corner seems off.
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Jul 20, 2019 23:10
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If it helps I bought these as references. There's some overlap but between them there's enough to give at least a brief overview on most every topic. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0007164424/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1405332069/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/113829599X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0854420975/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1849951497/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jul 20, 2019 23:44
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I've never sharpened a v-gouge but I've ground a lot of (metal turning) lathe tools from scratch + kept them keen afterwards; idk how well this transfers over, exactly, but for very finicky small work, my advice is - the scale makes labour-saving unnecessary, so unless you've got a machine-shop-style universal tool grinder or something else that will reliably hold sub-degree angular accuracy and sub-thousandth-inch travel accuracy, fine hand tools are more than enough - use a loupe, ideally an over-the-head style with multiple magnification options that you can wear for long periods without fatigue; you THINK you see everything going on until you do very fine work with the proper vision enhancement - error, wobble and indecisiveness are greatly magnified in effect because of the scale; you can ruin all your careful work with one or two swipes of the stone that you roll over the tool and turn a clean bevel into a pseudofillet edge with no defined angle. commit to every action, because a clean error is easier to fix than a muddled half-right stroke. - persuant to the above, if any sort of angle-holding gauge or tool is available to you or you can mock one up reasonably, definitely do so, you need it here more than anywhere else -blueing the steel with a Sharpie as you set or re-set a bevel/edge by eye can be useful, because it makes it easier to see if your angle is wrong or if you're favouring one corner too heavily. combine w/ loupe inspection - making angle templates from brass sheet stock is excellent any time you need to do heavier material removal and are afraid of 'losing' the profile, or when making a tool from scratch and want to keep it consistent over its lifetime, but you prolly can't do that with useful accuracy here can't help much w the sharpening medium as the final-step buffing/stropping stuff is largely wasted effort when you're about to plough a tool into a big hunk of aluminum on purpose; just make sure your stone is fine-grained and has good, trued flat faces, or at least one good face with crisp corners you can work with. a bellied stone will gently caress your poo poo up if you don't realize it's there and sth you need to account for. diamond hones are nice for this reason, their geometries tend to be a lot more consistent if theyre above Harbor Freight-tier quality the tip of the v-gouge would definitely throw me; beyond keeping the bevel facet line dead centre idk how i'd best approach that, or rather with what abrasive solution, b/c you could easily make a muck-up of that w something w the wrong geometries Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jul 20, 2019 |
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Jul 20, 2019 23:48
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Ambrose Burnside posted:- use a loupe, ideally an over-the-head style with multiple magnification options that you can wear for long periods without fatigue; you THINK you see everything going on until you do very fine work with the proper vision enhancement Ooooh this is a good trick
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Jul 21, 2019 00:12
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if you're gonna do micro-work with traditional techniques, look to the tools of the watchmakers and the gem-cutters and the goldsmiths, where eye strain and crows-feet by age 27 are frontline occupational injuries
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Jul 21, 2019 00:50
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Ambrose Burnside posted:if you're gonna do micro-work with traditional techniques, look to the tools of the watchmakers and the gem-cutters and the goldsmiths, where eye strain and crows-feet by age 27 are frontline occupational injuries The demands of small electronics repair means that you can get a good binocular microscope suited to work instead of looking at slides for under a grand now, too, to take it that next step.
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Jul 21, 2019 01:06
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How about a plane that cuts on both strokes (not that serious a video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmZSnV2c3ak
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Jul 21, 2019 14:08
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His Divine Shadow posted:How about a plane that cuts on both strokes (not that serious a video) I just watched that this morning  That fella is extremely goofy and fun.
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Jul 21, 2019 15:26
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What's a good random orbital sander? I gotta make some more utilitarian shelves, but this time it's "where my wife can see it" edition.
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Jul 21, 2019 15:58
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-2-5-Amp-5-in-Corded-Variable-Speed-Random-Orbital-Sander-Polisher-Kit-with-Carrying-Bag-ROS20VSC/203866770 I like mine
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Jul 21, 2019 16:26
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shovelbum posted:What's a good random orbital sander? I gotta make some more utilitarian shelves, but this time it's "where my wife can see it" edition. My Milwaukee has been an absolute champ. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-Amp-Corded-5-in-Random-Orbit-Palm-Sander-6034-21/206211754 Aggressive removal, excellent dust collection (which is good because I was aggressively removing lead paint), but can dial down to finish work. Used it day after day refinishing old lead painted woodwork for a summer and it never even thought of crapping out. Still going strong after several years.
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Jul 21, 2019 17:14
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shovelbum posted:What's a good random orbital sander? I gotta make some more utilitarian shelves, but this time it's "where my wife can see it" edition. I highly recommend picking one with variable speed. I can't imagine using one without it. The next step up in price would be for vibration control  rip my arms and wrists.
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Jul 21, 2019 17:25
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Jaded Burnout posted:I just watched that this morning It's more metalworking, but he has a great one making an absurd mechanical pencil. Ambrose Burnside posted:- use a loupe, ideally an over-the-head style with multiple magnification options that you can wear for long periods without fatigue; you THINK you see everything going on until you do very fine work with the proper vision enhancement
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Jul 21, 2019 17:51
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Any advice on buying a loupe? I know the best ones are $literally for surgeons
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Jul 21, 2019 18:07
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Generally the most important feature is making both your eyeballs look huge when you look up at someone so pick whatever color and battery system you're already in
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Jul 21, 2019 18:19
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shovelbum posted:Any advice on buying a loupe? I know the best ones are $literally for surgeons I use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H8808H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_blknDb1MCT1CQ and it's great. I don't think anyone is really using a literal loupe, but more along the lines of flip up magnifiers.
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Jul 21, 2019 18:38
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despite just recommending against this, nowadays i mostly use literal old-school monocle loupes with the eyepiece you kind of squint-hold in place, but that's only b/c 1) i very rarely use them for more than brief inspections nowadays so comfort isn't a big priority, and 2) a full set in various magnifications is extremely cheap but has proper ground glass lenses, which offer better optical clarity, lack of distortions and resistance to lens scratching compared to the thin fresnel-style lenses used in the cheaper headset magnifiers; if you want ground glass lenses in headset magnifiers they won't be at the amazon budget-tier pricing
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Jul 21, 2019 21:24
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What do my fellow Britishers do about bench dogs / holdfasts? It seems to be an underserved market here.
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Jul 21, 2019 22:31
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Jaded Burnout posted:What do my fellow Britishers do about bench dogs / holdfasts? It seems to be an underserved market here. not a Brit, but extremely cheap; as far as holdfasts go-  duplicate as needed  ...i'm being an rear end, but only half an rear end, b/c this is a rare blacksmithing project that a handy/well-equipped "unspecialized home craftsman" can probably make successfully; if you have access to an oxyacetylene torch, big atmospheric-propane burner, two plumber's torches used in concert by two people, etc it's not actually that difficult to grab some round stock of the proper diameter and do the two or three operations needed, and b/c the principle of operation is extremely forgiving you don't need much skill or precision to make one that works. briefly- start with a long piece of stock to avoid needing tongs, heat a spot maybe 8-10" from one end of the stock, then make the required crook bend using stock in the bench vise + vise-grips. heat the stock tip this time, now bent off at an angle, and flatten the end of the crook using a ballpeen hammer + that comical little bench vise 'anvil' or similar solid mass of steel to produce a nonmarring clamping surface. do some modest finishing work on the working surfaces, cut to length with a hacksaw once cool, chamfer the shank to ease insertion, and it's ready to go.
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Jul 21, 2019 22:50
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Alas I don't have any heat-based metalworking tools, and after a chat with the metalworking thread I probably won't go down that path any time soon. I guess I could see about finding a local metalworker.
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Jul 21, 2019 23:02
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Do look into local metalworkers. I took a blacksmithing class with a local artist, just to see what it's all about, and now I hire him to do stuff like door pulls and forged nails.
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Jul 22, 2019 00:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:Alas I don't have any heat-based metalworking tools, and after a chat with the metalworking thread I probably won't go down that path any time soon. I guess I could see about finding a local metalworker. It looks like Gramercy hold fasts from Tools For Working Wood offers international shipping. You might check there first.
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Jul 22, 2019 00:50
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ColdPie posted:Do look into local metalworkers. I took a blacksmithing class with a local artist, just to see what it's all about, and now I hire him to do stuff like door pulls and forged nails. these working mutually-beneficial relationships are great btw, once youve worked a few times w/ someone and know taht they're not flakes and follow through on stuff you can pop the Ongoing Relationship question and feed each other clients, paying gigs, and projects that are much nicer than what either of you could have accomplished alone
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Jul 22, 2019 02:12
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Jaded Burnout posted:What do my fellow Britishers do about bench dogs / holdfasts? It seems to be an underserved market here. Those gramercy holdfasts are the best. Lee valley makes great nice brass bench dogs, but I don’t know if they’ll ship to the U.K. Wooden dowels the size of the dog hole (have to sand/plane the dowels down so they’re not too loose and not too tight) work alright for budget dogs too, but they get finicky when the humidity changes. Smuggle me Henry Taylor carving tools and I’ll smuggle you bench dogs.
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Jul 22, 2019 03:45
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Ambrose Burnside posted:despite just recommending against this, nowadays i mostly use literal old-school monocle loupes with the eyepiece you kind of squint-hold in place, but that's only b/c I've been wondering if I should get full size optivisors or those things you clamp to glasses and can flip down over one eye, since I now use glasses anyway. I have a buncha 10X magnifiers lying around the house and shop and they are great for checking stuff, or picking out metallic slivers out of your hands, or splinters out of the kids feet. But something mounted would be a lot more useful so I could have both hands free.
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Jul 22, 2019 06:54
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I have contacted a local metalworking place, we'll see what comes of it. It's probably worth doing anyway since I'll eventually need some balusters made.
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Jul 22, 2019 08:11
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I really like making doors. This is my first interior door made with tongues and grooves. Trim was made from a single board cut into quarters then routed to the profile I wanted, mainly chamfering the edges and taking some of the back interior out.   I made an exterior door too   I love making doors.
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Jul 22, 2019 23:11
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poopinmymouth posted:I love making doors. I like your doors. They make me want to build a new one for my garage.
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Jul 22, 2019 23:17
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I finished my boxes and took some pics...  4 way matched walnut crotch, lined with spanish cedar and decorative paper bottom.   Maple burl with walnut edging. Spanish cedar lining with some parquetry in the lid (maple and mahogany).  Maple and mahogany with mahogany edging.  Maple, mahogany and rosewood, walnut edging. They're all finished with shellac. My next project is a piece furniture again, which will be nice after this recent box kick I've been on.
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Jul 23, 2019 01:23
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I finished my boxes and took some pics...  yoooo great work! The orientation on that last one with the diamonds going across is prettttay dope. I have a hard time picking a favorite
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Jul 23, 2019 01:31
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I finished my boxes and took some pics... I've been masking, caulking, and humping an airless all week and I needed this, so thank you you maniac and bless you.
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Jul 23, 2019 03:57
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've been wondering if I should get full size optivisors or those things you clamp to glasses and can flip down over one eye, since I now use glasses anyway. I have a buncha 10X magnifiers lying around the house and shop and they are great for checking stuff, or picking out metallic slivers out of your hands, or splinters out of the kids feet. But something mounted would be a lot more useful so I could have both hands free. I finally decided on an approach and bought an OptiVisor, the real deal by Donegan too. 33 euros with shipping was pretty drat cheap IMO. 2x magnification seemed like a good idea. I got the cheaper LX model, it uses polycarbonate instead of glass lenses. I think polycarbonate is fine though, all my lenses are that. Lighter, more durable to me. Weird it's cheaper.
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Jul 23, 2019 07:46
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I finished my boxes and took some pics... Those are absolutely amazing and mindblowing in the precision.
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Jul 23, 2019 10:22
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If you need a nice little reverse-palette cleanser after Meow Meow Meow's amazing boxes (seriously, they are so good), you can witness babby's 6th(?) woodturning project, wherein I make a rattle for a literal babby. A few weeks ago I tried making one with just a spindle gouge to hollow the inside and it was very difficult and probably dangerous, so I never really got the walls thin enough. Because of that it never really sounded rattley enough and was way too quiet. Some family members bought me this nice swan neck carbide cutter which made it all a lot easier on the second attempt:  I made myself a little wall thickness gauge since I don't have one and didn't want to buy one.   Test fitting...  Took a while finding the perfect... rattley parts. Ended up with three dried chickpeas and some rice. It was a nice combination of rattling and soothing maracas sound (I'm sorry, parents of child)  All done! I even managed to match the grain this time lol.  I'm loving how quick you can turn around woodturning projects. Snagged some firewood from a farm we stayed at so I've got some green stock to use up now!
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Jul 23, 2019 12:58
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Meow Meow Meow posted:*snip* Meow Meow Meow posted:I finished my boxes and took some pics... Echoing what has been said, those are absolutely outstanding. How thick are the panels you made them with? I'm guessing about 3/8 or so, but it's tough to judge scale. Assuming they are about that thin, how did you get them so perfectly thin and flat? Drum sander? Edit: I looked through your posts, and saw the first part of these boxes. How did you do the glue ups so perfectly? Whenever I clamp poo poo that isn't on a 90, it's an absolute nightmare to keep everything aligned. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Jul 23, 2019 |
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Jul 23, 2019 13:14
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extravadanza posted:That's a very easy finish to apply but it will require lots of coats because it's been thinned with mineral spirits. You could apply it with an old tshirt if you want and still get great results. Thanks! I gave it another coat but left for a weekend trip and forgot to wipe it off first, now it's all tacky. I'll just sand down and start over.
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Jul 23, 2019 14:07
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Thanks for the love everyone.Harry Potter on Ice posted:
The other diamond one was supposed to have the diamonds continuous across the joints but a miss-cut very early in the process made that impossible without losing another 1/2" or more from each side. AFewBricksShy posted:Echoing what has been said, those are absolutely outstanding. All the pattern work is actually veneer, so it starts out about 1/50" of an inch thick. The first step is to use blue masking tape to assemble and 'clamp' the pattern together. Then I apply a veneer tape which has a water activated adhesive, this tape actually shrinks when it dries so it pulls everything a tiny bit tighter. Then I remove the blue tape and glue it down to a piece of 1/2" baltic birch plywood. It's pretty flat and even once it's on the plywood, but a little bit of card scraper work makes it totally level. Let me know if you or anyone else have more questions...these boxes are fairly easy, just alot of steps, the only power tool I use is a table saw, the rest is handwork.
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Jul 23, 2019 18:12
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks for the love everyone. Those really look great. I haven’t done any veneered stuff in forever, but this has gotten me all excited and so I have a million questions. Am I understanding right that you do painters tape on side A, veneer tape (god I hate that stuff) on side B (which winds up as the face), remove painters tape from side A, glue down side A? What kind of glue are you using? What’s your setup like for cutting all the little bits? Veneer saw or exacto knife or what?
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Jul 23, 2019 19:03
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