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Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

glug posted:

You're aces, man!

You're welcome! I should add that Ryzen CPUs occasionally do have stability or boot issues with XMP on faster RAM. If you're computer fails to boot after setting it, try booting a few more times (sometimes that's all it takes). If it still fails clear the bios settings (look for "clear CMOS" in the manual) to go back to default. You should be able to manually set stable timings faster than 2666MHz if XMP isn't working - just post here or in the support thread!

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Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Nektu posted:

I'm trying to run one of the new AMD 3600s in a B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC and I seem to run into a power problem.

I connected my PSUs 4+4 EPS cable to the 8 Pin CPU power connector, but the system doesnt start to BIOS. Instead it just toggles itself off/on/off for a few seconds which as far as I know inducates a problem with the CPU power supply.

There is another 4 PIN CPU power connector that I cannot fill, because my seasonic PSU has no more CPU power cables.

Getting replacement cables for seasonic PSUs also seems to be a thing that just doesnt happen in germany apparently. The only somewhat local source that I could find is stuff like this https://eustore.cablemod.com/product/cablemod-se-series-xp2-xp3-km3-fl2-basic-cable-kit/ which not only contains all the cables, but also costs half as much as the PSU cost in the first place.

Does anyone know a source that will not ship that loving cable from somewhere on the other side of the world?

I think it's very unlikely to a be a PSU/cable issue. The 3600 is about as efficient as mainstream desktop processors get. It'd start by re-seating RAM / trying just a single stick in different slots / clearing the CMOS. Do the CPU/GPU fans spin up when it tries to boot?

Alpha Mayo
Jan 15, 2007
hi how are you?
there was this racist piece of shit in your av so I fixed it
you're welcome
pay it forward~

Stickman posted:

I think technically you're supposed to, but people have reported success just using old keys without any sort of deactivation, so probably not unless it's one of those "digital licenses".

I really don't think Microsoft cares about restricting Windows 10 licenses. They want your data which is far more valuable than fighting you on whether your old Win7 oem key should work or not. I've never had a Win10 activation fail even times when I'm pretty sure it should have.

I'm surprised they haven't made Win10 Home outright free and maybe make Pro a perk of Office 365.

Sniep
Mar 28, 2004

All I needed was that fatty blunt...



King of Breakfast

Stickman posted:

There's also a good chance that you'll need to cover or remove one of the pins for it to work with a standard desktop PSU. The guide recommends covering it with tape, but the pin is otherwise unused so I just bent mine back (if you break it off it'll probably void your warranty, though!)

It’s just the 3.3v power sense pin so neither of these options is as palatable to me as going to microcenter, getting a $2.99 sata power 6” extension and clipping the 3.3v wire. At least I’ve heard of people doing it that way to not have to tape anything. Mine all went into synologys which didn’t care.

SatelliteCore
Oct 16, 2008

needa get dat cake up

For any US goons planning on using the MSI B450-A Pro Amazon has it on sale for $80 ($13 lower than what it has been sitting at). This is one of the few with BIOS flashback.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F85YW8R/

Ancillary Character
Jul 25, 2007
Going about life as if I were a third-tier ancillary character
I bought the Kapton tape (it was ~$10 after tax) and taped over the pin. I actually taped over the second and third pins because I was too lazy to cut it precisely enough to only cover the third pin. The first 3 pins are for the 3.3v wire anyway and are not involved in powering the drive, so you don't have to be that precise, just don't overlap the fourth pin.

The drive definitely was not recognized in my desktop with a Seasonic PSU without the tape, but recognized after the pins were taped over.

glug
Mar 12, 2004

JON JONES APOLOGIST #1

Stickman posted:

The biggest thing is to make sure that "XMP Profile" is turned on in bios to get your RAM running at it's listed timings. Technically everything over 2666MHz is "overclocking" by JDEC spec, so it's not activated by default.
For the CPU, you'll want to make sure Precision Boost 2 and XFR2 are enabled, but I believe their on by default. There's also "Precision Boost Overdrive" which is effectively auto-overclocking for Ryzen and allows voltages to be adjusted up to a temperature threshold, but most benchmarks have found that it doesn't do much for 3rd-gen Ryzen CPUs (and can sometimes be counterproductive). It should be off by default. Gamersnexus has a pretty good article on Precision Boost, XFR, Precision Boost Overdrive, and their effects on 3rd-gen performance.

As far as GPU overclocking goes, the easiest method is to max the "power limit" slider in MSI Afterburner and then bump up you clock speed in increments until you start seeing artifacts. You can generally overclock the GDRAM a bit, too.

I've gotten as far as turning on 'Profile 1' from the 2 profile options for XMP. I can't find anything called Precision Boost or XFR though.. I think perhaps the UI is all different for the beta bios update for the B450a-pro, or I'm just not looking in the right places.

I ave Afterburner running with OC Scanner testing, and I'm at a 300mgz clock boost with 90% confidence, scanning now to finalize that. Just.. can't figure out the CPU stuff in the bios. Anyone working with this mobo right now and able to figure out the location of these settings?

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

glug posted:

I've gotten as far as turning on 'Profile 1' from the 2 profile options for XMP. I can't find anything called Precision Boost or XFR though.. I think perhaps the UI is all different for the beta bios update for the B450a-pro, or I'm just not looking in the right places.

I ave Afterburner running with OC Scanner testing, and I'm at a 300mgz clock boost with 90% confidence, scanning now to finalize that. Just.. can't figure out the CPU stuff in the bios. Anyone working with this mobo right now and able to figure out the location of these settings?

Yeah, I'm not seeing an option in BIOS to directly control PB2 or XFR2, so they must be on by default unless you lock the cores by manually overclocking or by disabling "Core Performance Boost". I wouldn't worry about it all. They're on by default anyway, and you definitely don't want to turn them off!

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Stickman posted:

Nope! The X570 comes with 3rd-Gen Ryzen support. You'll want to install Windows from a thumb drive, though. If you have an old Windows 7/8/10 key kicking around from an old computer, you can even use that to activate Windows 10 on the new computer, otherwise Windows 7 Pro keys are $25 on SAMart.

Excellent, and with people talking about using their old Windows 7 pro keys with the old PC still working, you may've just saved me $25 bux. You're awesome!

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

Alpha Mayo posted:

I really don't think Microsoft cares about restricting Windows 10 licenses. They want your data which is far more valuable than fighting you on whether your old Win7 oem key should work or not. I've never had a Win10 activation fail even times when I'm pretty sure it should have.

I'm surprised they haven't made Win10 Home outright free and maybe make Pro a perk of Office 365.

They basically have, considering they provide a working installer free on their website and the only drawback to having an unregistered version is that you can't set your desktop.

Khorne
May 1, 2002

Jack the Lad posted:

What's the thread favourite spinny drive? I'm looking for something 2 or 4TB to go alongside my SSD.

I remember something about buying external HDDs and shucking them - is that still the way to go, and if so which particular drives?
I buy 8tb-10tb WD easystores/WD elements for $120-$150 and take them out of the enclosure for reasonably priced WD red drives. The prices for drives without doing this are crazy high.

Lazyhound
Mar 1, 2004

A squid eating dough in a polyethylene bag is fast and bulbous—got me?

ItBreathes posted:

They basically have, considering they provide a working installer free on their website and the only drawback to having an unregistered version is that you can't set your desktop.

there’s a watermark too

Taffer
Oct 15, 2010


Khorne posted:

I buy 8tb-10tb WD easystores/WD elements for $120-$150 and take them out of the enclosure for reasonably priced WD red drives. The prices for drives without doing this are crazy high.

Why are external drives so much cheaper? Are they slower or something? I'm also looking at buying a 8ish TB media drive and the prices confuse me.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Taffer posted:

Why are external drives so much cheaper? Are they slower or something? I'm also looking at buying a 8ish TB media drive and the prices confuse me.

I never seen a satisfying answer. At least part of it is warranty difference - 2 years for the Easystore vs. 3 for Reds, and external drives will generally have see less wear than internal drives. It's also possible that they bin or sometimes used refurbished drives for externals, but that still doesn't explain the huge price discrepancy - they could easily sell lower-binned bare drives with shorter warranties, but no one makes them available.

Even if they are binned, I haven't seen much evidence that it significantly affects performance. Of course at this point an HDD is an HDD is an HDD - anything that needs to be high-performance just gets off loaded to an SSD.

Sniep
Mar 28, 2004

All I needed was that fatty blunt...



King of Breakfast

Stickman posted:

I never seen a satisfying answer. At least part of it is warranty difference - 2 years for the Easystore vs. 3 for Reds, and external drives will generally have see less wear than internal drives. It's also possible that they bin or sometimes used refurbished drives for externals, but that still doesn't explain the huge price discrepancy - they could easily sell lower-binned bare drives with shorter warranties, but no one makes them available.

Even if they are binned, I haven't seen much evidence that it significantly affects performance. Of course at this point an HDD is an HDD is an HDD - anything that needs to be high-performance just gets off loaded to an SSD.

I don't think it's binning at all. I think it's overflow from gov contracts with some sort of first-right of refusal on massive quantities of high-availability disk.

Then if the .gov (+/- other stakeholders) doesn't buy up the stock, they go on fire sale into externals.

'Cuz the price is fixed for WD Red NAS drives, they are a niche item, for NAS use. Joe normie building a NAS says "oh yeah those are what I want" - You can't punch yourself in the face repeatedly trying to sell a $250 drive for $150 then expect it to hold value at $250.

...but external backup drives sell like hotcakes at Best Buy and Wal*Mart when priced cheaply.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

How many winamps can my son fit on this 8tb computer?

grimcreaper
Jan 7, 2012

VelociBacon posted:

How many winamps can my son fit on this 8tb computer?

Winamp, winamp.. it really whips the llamas rear end.

Weird Sandwich
Dec 28, 2011

FIRE FIRE FIRE hehehehe!

Stickman posted:

Looks pretty good! Should be fine for 1440p. A few thoughts:

Thank you so much, you're a legend! I went with your suggestions and ended up a bit under budget, including delivery.

denereal visease
Nov 27, 2002

"Research your own experience. Absorb what is useful, reject what is useless, add what is essentially your own."

While everyone is talking about storage, is there a hivemind consensus for a reliable external HDD in the $50 range?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

denereal visease posted:

While everyone is talking about storage, is there a hivemind consensus for a reliable external HDD in the $50 range?

They're all pretty similar, but I've had issues with Seagate before so I usually buy WD or Toshiba. Those are the only three companies that make hard disks now. My issues were with some specific models and there have been bad models released by every company, though.

The main thing to note about using externals is that they don't have any fans cooling them so try not to pile stuff on/around them because the disks are hot enough already. The main thing about backing up in general is to keep anything important on two different devices or even better in two physical places, since disks can just die and be unrecoverable at any time and there can be fires or other destructive events.

I've used these at some client sites where they don't have enough computers at any site for a NAS and won't backup to a cloud provider:
https://smile.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Passport-Portable-External/dp/B01LQQHI8I/

I think two have died out of 15 or so in total, and one was able to be warranty replaced without much trouble. The small drives like that one are laptop disks internally so you can power them entirely over USB 3.0, although they're a little slower than a 3.5" disk.

dex_sda
Oct 11, 2012


So I talked with the guys at the shop, and they can get a 2070S from Palit for an extra 15$ compared to the Asus Strix 2070. Is Palit decent? The card itself looks to be good value from reviews - a 2070S that's faster, colder and quieter than other offerings.

Ak Gara
Jul 29, 2005

That's just the way he rolls.
Does anyone know if I can plug the DRGB of my EK CPU waterblock + a DRGB LED strip into the Thermaltake Sync Controller and still have it work via Gigabyte's RGB Fusion? I only have 2 5v DRGB headers and both are going to be taken up by 2 Sync Controllers. (it says sata only provides enough amps for 4-5 fans, even though it's a 9 fan controller)

mcbexx
Jul 4, 2004

British dentistry is
not on trial here!



Khorne posted:

I buy 8tb-10tb WD easystores/WD elements for $120-$150 and take them out of the enclosure for reasonably priced WD red drives. The prices for drives without doing this are crazy high.


Haven't they started to solder I/O-Ports directly to the controllers or something to prevent shucking lately?

Khorne
May 1, 2002

mcbexx posted:

Haven't they started to solder I/O-Ports directly to the controllers or something to prevent shucking lately?
I just double checked and I haven't seen any complaints about the easystore/elements in particular. Soldering is usually on the 2.5" or smaller size external drives aimed at mobile usage.

Before you buy an external to get the drive inside make sure to find out if other are people are doing and what steps you may need to take. With the easystore/elements you get a wd red/white drive, but the white drives sometimes require you to modify the power cable slightly.

Khorne fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Jul 29, 2019

Thom P. Tiers
May 29, 2008

Red Birds
Red Ass
Red Text

Stickman posted:

You're welcome! I should add that Ryzen CPUs occasionally do have stability or boot issues with XMP on faster RAM. If you're computer fails to boot after setting it, try booting a few more times (sometimes that's all it takes). If it still fails clear the bios settings (look for "clear CMOS" in the manual) to go back to default. You should be able to manually set stable timings faster than 2666MHz if XMP isn't working - just post here or in the support thread!

You've been super helpful so I figure I'll cross post this from the OC thread as well to see if you have any ideas (or if I should wait for an update to the BIOS).

I want to get my RAM to run at it's specified timings.

RAM: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb...N82E16820232306

MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix x470-i
CPU: 3700x

So, my computer won't post anything if I set the DOCP profile. I have to reset the bios by jumping the pins on the motherboard, I've tried it 3 times. So, I manually set the voltage to 1.3 and the RAM speed to 3600. Great! It posted. A week later my dumb self realized I forgot to set any of the timings manually, so while it was running at 3600... the timings were set to something like 25-25-25-35. So I go back into BIOS and manually set the timings to 16-16-16-35 and a 1.35v this time. It posts, no crashes, everything seems stable.

I haven't tried the 15-15-15-35 yet, but am going to this weekend. The only difference between these manual settings and the DOCP is the BCLK frequency. I currently have it set to auto, but the DOCP sets it to "100." I know nothing about BCLK, could that be causing the no post? Will I be safe to set the timings down to 15-15-15-35 and leave the BCLK at auto?

Does ASUS just need to update BIOS to make the DOCP stable?

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




mcbexx posted:

Haven't they started to solder I/O-Ports directly to the controllers or something to prevent shucking lately?

I just shucked two 10TB drives, and nothing was soldered, the I/O is attached by two screws and a tiny metal bracket that reinforces the USB connector. I also had a couple of 4TB Reds that had been in my NAS until I switched it to all 8TB drives that I threw into the enclosures. I had to cut the rubber bumpers to fit, but they work great, too.

FilthyImp
Sep 30, 2002

Anime Deviant

Sub Rosa posted:

I just shucked two 10TB drives, and nothing was soldered
Shitballs, what brand was this? That's exactly what I need for my new desktop.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




I'm contemplating just pulling the trigger on a 10TB Easystore to shuck as well, is there a quick reference for what colour the HD is based on the serial number?

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




FilthyImp posted:

Shitballs, what brand was this? That's exactly what I need for my new desktop.
I found a good deal on the WD Elements but get the My Book or Easystore if you find a cheaper deal on it, it's the same drives. I got the white labeled -EMAZ in both. I did have to put tape over the third pin, etc.

Also I have six 8TB shucked drives in my NAS. They were all actually helium filled HGST drives, and I love them. I've never had any issues with shucked drives.

Khorne
May 1, 2002

Johnny Truant posted:

I'm contemplating just pulling the trigger on a 10TB Easystore to shuck as well, is there a quick reference for what colour the HD is based on the serial number?
I think all 10tb are white label. Whites are just reds with a different label and you might have to tape the third pin depending on your PSU.

I run two 8tb from easystores and have a 10tb external I back stuff up onto. I've had no issues, but hard drives do sometimes fail. Supposedly you can RMA the drive even without the enclosure. I always accidentally break clips when I'm taking it apart. They break so easy that some people have had them break in shipping.

If you check https://old.reddit.com/r/datahoarder you can search for shuck or shucking and there are lots of posts about it.

Khorne fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jul 29, 2019

grimcreaper
Jan 7, 2012

dex_sda posted:

So I talked with the guys at the shop, and they can get a 2070S from Palit for an extra 15$ compared to the Asus Strix 2070. Is Palit decent? The card itself looks to be good value from reviews - a 2070S that's faster, colder and quieter than other offerings.

I would personally be very leary of palit. They have had quite a few known cards over the years where they send reviewers samples that are correctly thermal pasted/padded and then releases sales ones that lack any and all pads for the vrm and memory resulting in dead cards in under a year. When it happened to mine they claimed it was my own negligence for not checking and voiding the warranty to apply my own pads.


Super cards are a much better buy than regular. Dont get a normal 2060/70/80

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

grimcreaper posted:

I would personally be very leary of palit. They have had quite a few known cards over the years where they send reviewers samples that are correctly thermal pasted/padded and then releases sales ones that lack any and all pads for the vrm and memory resulting in dead cards in under a year. When it happened to mine they claimed it was my own negligence for not checking and voiding the warranty to apply my own pads.


Super cards are a much better buy than regular. Dont get a normal 2060/70/80

I wouldn't go so far as to say "don't buy non-super 2060/70/80". They've dropped from their original MSRP and slot in pretty nicely against their Super counterparts right now:

2060: starts at $300. The 2060 Super starts at $400 for a ~15-20% performance boost.
2070: starts at $420 for a small 3-5%ish boost over the 2060 Super. The 2070 Super is a 7-10%ish boost over the 2070 but starts at $500.
2080: starts at $600, ~5% boost over the 2070 Super. The 2080 Super is an additional 7%ish boost, but starts at $700.

The 2060 and 2070 are pretty well priced for where they are in the stack. The 2080 and 2080 Super are both less attractive now that 2070 Super exists, but if you want the extra performance it still doesn't have competition.

Of course the 2060 through 2070 Super still don't stack up well against 5700/5700 XT, at least not once we get decent open-cooler cards.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Thom P. Tiers posted:

You've been super helpful so I figure I'll cross post this from the OC thread as well to see if you have any ideas (or if I should wait for an update to the BIOS).

I want to get my RAM to run at it's specified timings.

RAM: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb...N82E16820232306

MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix x470-i
CPU: 3700x

So, my computer won't post anything if I set the DOCP profile. I have to reset the bios by jumping the pins on the motherboard, I've tried it 3 times. So, I manually set the voltage to 1.3 and the RAM speed to 3600. Great! It posted. A week later my dumb self realized I forgot to set any of the timings manually, so while it was running at 3600... the timings were set to something like 25-25-25-35. So I go back into BIOS and manually set the timings to 16-16-16-35 and a 1.35v this time. It posts, no crashes, everything seems stable.

I haven't tried the 15-15-15-35 yet, but am going to this weekend. The only difference between these manual settings and the DOCP is the BCLK frequency. I currently have it set to auto, but the DOCP sets it to "100." I know nothing about BCLK, could that be causing the no post? Will I be safe to set the timings down to 15-15-15-35 and leave the BCLK at auto?

Does ASUS just need to update BIOS to make the DOCP stable?

I wouldn't bother dropping the timings down to 15 - Ryzen doesn't run on odd numbered timings without disabling geardown mode, which can reduce stability. I also wouldn't touch BCLK - it's the bases system speed and you're unlikely to be able to increase it enough to see an actual performance gain before you lose performance to instability.

Motherboards manufacturers have improved the memory compatibility of past Ryzen CPUs through BIOS updates, so I suspect that it'll hold true with this generation. I don't really have deep enough knowledge to say with certainty, though!

Weird Sandwich posted:

Thank you so much, you're a legend! I went with your suggestions and ended up a bit under budget, including delivery.

You're welcome! Let us know how it works out :)

Sniep posted:

I don't think it's binning at all. I think it's overflow from gov contracts with some sort of first-right of refusal on massive quantities of high-availability disk.

Then if the .gov (+/- other stakeholders) doesn't buy up the stock, they go on fire sale into externals.

'Cuz the price is fixed for WD Red NAS drives, they are a niche item, for NAS use. Joe normie building a NAS says "oh yeah those are what I want" - You can't punch yourself in the face repeatedly trying to sell a $250 drive for $150 then expect it to hold value at $250.

...but external backup drives sell like hotcakes at Best Buy and Wal*Mart when priced cheaply.

That makes sense, though it still seems like they could get around that with one-year warranties or b-stock sales. In the end, we just have piles of discarded enclosures anyway :v:

Thom P. Tiers
May 29, 2008

Red Birds
Red Ass
Red Text

Stickman posted:

I wouldn't bother dropping the timings down to 15 - Ryzen doesn't run on odd numbered timings without disabling geardown mode, which can reduce stability. I also wouldn't touch BCLK - it's the bases system speed and you're unlikely to be able to increase it enough to see an actual performance gain before you lose performance to instability.

Motherboards manufacturers have improved the memory compatibility of past Ryzen CPUs through BIOS updates, so I suspect that it'll hold true with this generation. I don't really have deep enough knowledge to say with certainty, though!

Follow up question, do you think it would run fine at 1.3v CL16-3600? I just don't want to short my mobo to reset my BIOS again :D Currently at 1.35v CL16-3600

Does the DOCP pull data from the RAM? Why would default DOCP be something that the build legitimately can't even run? Or will that be fixed down the road with BIOS updates as you have mentioned?

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Thom P. Tiers posted:

Follow up question, do you think it would run fine at 1.3v CL16-3600? I just don't want to short my mobo to reset my BIOS again :D Currently at 1.35v CL16-3600

Does the DOCP pull data from the RAM? Why would default DOCP be something that the build legitimately can't even run? Or will that be fixed down the road with BIOS updates as you have mentioned?

DOCP is just AMDs term for XMP, which is copyrighted by Intel. It reads the same Serial Presence Detect chip on the RAM which gives the list of supported frequencies and timings. XMP timings are stored in the spare space that isn't required for storing the mandatory JEDEC timings.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU
I skimmed the last couple pages and didn't see much SSD chat; what is the thread favorite these days?

Storytime: I had my computer that I built back in April 2018 BSOD on me last night. Rebooted to BIOS okay, but BIOS doesn't recognize the SSD anymore, just the WD spindisk. I'm in the process of clearing some desk space to open it up and make sure no cables came loose (??????) but I'm guessing that it's not gonna come back. It was a Crucial MX500 2.5" SATA III, 2TB.

Sternieliscious
Sep 21, 2014

Dynas: Tea warrior
Back in 2015 I wound up building a PC with a setup suggested by this thread. The final build is as linked. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tCYct6

Overall, I'd say it's been pretty good to me, but I am noticing that my CPU has been peaking at 100% more often than I expect it to. I'm currently chalking that up to age. Should I upgrade the CPU alone, or are other components going to need to be changed as well?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Sternieliscious posted:

Back in 2015 I wound up building a PC with a setup suggested by this thread. The final build is as linked. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tCYct6

Overall, I'd say it's been pretty good to me, but I am noticing that my CPU has been peaking at 100% more often than I expect it to. I'm currently chalking that up to age. Should I upgrade the CPU alone, or are other components going to need to be changed as well?

How high did you overclock it? If you want to upgrade there's only one CPU better for that motherboard which is the i7-4790K. It's not going to be a massive upgrade and they've maintained their high price due to being the top CPU for that socket. Moving to a newer CPU will require a new motherboard and RAM but is probably worth doing if you need more CPU, especially since you'll get way more cores for your dollar now. I upgraded from a 4670K to a R7-1700 and even though the single core performance isn't quite as good it's been a lot better overall due to having much faster RAM and having 8 cores with AMD's version of hyperthreading.

poisonpill
Nov 8, 2009

The only way to get huge fast is to insult a passing witch and hope she curses you with Beast-strength.


Sternieliscious posted:

Back in 2015 I wound up building a PC with a setup suggested by this thread. The final build is as linked. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tCYct6

Overall, I'd say it's been pretty good to me, but I am noticing that my CPU has been peaking at 100% more often than I expect it to. I'm currently chalking that up to age. Should I upgrade the CPU alone, or are other components going to need to be changed as well?

I have an almost identical system that I’ve been slowly swapping things out on and I’m just going to build a new system at this point. It’s time.

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Sternieliscious
Sep 21, 2014

Dynas: Tea warrior
I don't know how to overclock. If I am bumping to a new motherboard and RAM, would other components still be used, or would I need to swap them as well?

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