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French Canadian posted:I don't have room for a good air compressor for inflating tires. I just bought a lovely one off Amazon and it's garbage. So I need something better that runs off 110v and a cigarette lighter (or has terminal clamps) and can muster enough pressure for larger cargo van tires. Advice? I doubt you will find one worth a drat that runs on both AC and DC. Viair makes good 12v compressors.
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Jul 26, 2019 04:04
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SimonCat posted:What's the best way to clean a car after a mouse has lived in it? I'm vacuuming everything, rubbing down all the surfaces with Clorox wipes, I'm going to shampoo the carpet tomorrow. I would maybe try an ozone treatment but yes you should probably be worried about stuff everywhere. Honestly if it was living in it for a long time and it's really gross inside I'd get a new car. That said, I love in the country and I occasionally have evidence of mice in the car. Never a house so far (I drive it too often for that) and I've just vacuumed and wiped stuff down and used traps to kill the mice going forward. I set up traps around and in the car now if I'll be gone for a week or two on vacation.
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Jul 26, 2019 12:28
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French Canadian posted:I don't have room for a good air compressor for inflating tires. I just bought a lovely one off Amazon and it's garbage. So I need something better that runs off 110v and a cigarette lighter (or has terminal clamps) and can muster enough pressure for larger cargo van tires. Advice?
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Jul 26, 2019 16:03
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I’ve had a Husky branded 12v/120v inflator for years and it’s fine.
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Jul 26, 2019 16:10
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I’ve had a Husky branded 12v/120v inflator for years and it’s fine. They do all appear to be the (Husky/Kobalt/...) crappy brand varieties, so personally I'd still say you're better off with a Viair and running the van (or something) while you use it, but that does appear to be a solution. I'm curious, does it pump faster on 120v? It seems like an obvious feature, but I got the sensation from looking at the HD page about it (I.e., they don't even list CFM) that it does not.
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Jul 26, 2019 16:21
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Krakkles posted:Hmmm, go figure. "12v / 120v air compressor" does bring up a fair number of results. Way faster. It works ok on 12v but I wouldn’t want to do more than 1 tire before letting it cool off.
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Jul 26, 2019 16:47
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stupid question: where do people discuss vehicles like electric bikes, scooters, hybrids, etc?
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Jul 26, 2019 17:07
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Jam2 posted:stupid question: where do people discuss vehicles like electric bikes, scooters, hybrids, etc? Hipster coffee shops, mostly. Maybe the granola section of Whole Foods.
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Jul 26, 2019 17:16
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Ok, went with a cigarette lighter version of a Vlair that pulls 15 amps, and purchased a 15 amp cigarette to 110v converter which hopefully all plays nice together...
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Jul 26, 2019 18:02
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Jam2 posted:stupid question: where do people discuss vehicles like electric bikes, scooters, hybrids, etc? Come argue about how electric cars are stupid and dumb.
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Jul 26, 2019 18:52
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 26, 2019 23:37
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I had to help someone with their Vue somewhat recently, the body control module is a common failure and if it does break the part is both hard to find and you have to have a dealer reprogram a new module, don't believe you can use a junkyard module without issues. If the module breaks it loses random functions like headlights and power steering and may not stay running. Also the ignition cylinder/key has a tendency to wear prematurely. Parts generally need to be ordered online or ordered with a delay from parts stores for the most part minus more generic stuff like plugs. The car wasn't really bad but the module failure was not a cheap fix especially since the first two dealers I went to wouldn't touch it since it is a Saturn, ended up having to drive 15 miles to the nearest Buick dealer to get it done. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jul 27, 2019 |
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Jul 27, 2019 03:45
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puberty worked me over posted:How hard is it to get parts for a Saturn Vue and is the GM 3.0L V6 X30XE / L81 / B308I / B308E known to have any major issues? I can scoop an '03 Vue for $2,500 with 66k miles on it and it accepts a 750lb tongue weight hitch so I can throw a dirt bike carrier on it. Seems like a comfy OK gas mileage car I can probably camp in if I need to. The 3L version appears to come with the 5-Speed Aisin AW AF33 750lbs on the tongue doesn’t seem accurate. Thats mid 00s 3/4 ton capacity (without the weight distribution hitch). Other than that I think the L81 had intake gasket issues. If you really want to do it right for $2500-3k just find a used tahoe/yukon. Much easier to find parts for and more likely to be reliable.
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Jul 27, 2019 03:47
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So I'm seriously considering an IS300h, which I found very pleasant to drive (amazing seats) etc. But now the question is, do I get a Lexus "Select" car which has 200kkm / 10 year extended warranty on what seems to be a pretty comprehensive list of parts? The reason I'm hesitating is that the warranty requires to car to be serviced by authorized Lexus garages (I.e dealers I guess), which sounds expensive. But I guess the other way of looking at is that I'm buying piece of mind for X amount of money a year.
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Jul 27, 2019 09:52
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 27, 2019 11:51
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Random CEL while driving straight and level yesssss Randomly turns off a little after I pull over and plug in my OBD II Turns out it was throwing a VVT code Have decided to sell the car ASAP, best fix 100% assured I can't work out what's going wrong, I just don't want it to be my problem anymore
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Jul 27, 2019 12:38
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What on Earth is this crap in the cooling system of my 01' miata? I'm replacing the HG and it's just full of this poo poo :/ 
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Jul 27, 2019 16:46
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simplefish posted:Random CEL while driving straight and level yesssss A lot of Honda/Acura products will throw VVT codes when the oil is low, or of the wrong viscosity.
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Jul 27, 2019 16:48
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puberty worked me over posted:How hard is it to get parts for a Saturn Vue and is the GM 3.0L V6 X30XE / L81 / B308I / B308E known to have any major issues? I can scoop an '03 Vue for $2,500 with 66k miles on it and it accepts a 750lb tongue weight hitch so I can throw a dirt bike carrier on it. Seems like a comfy OK gas mileage car I can probably camp in if I need to. The 3L version appears to come with the 5-Speed Aisin AW AF33 Don't. I say this as someone with a fetish for Saturns, too. Parts availability for that engine is next to nil in the US; it's a European engine that was only used in a few cars in the US. The transaxle suffered from shift flare (GM released new firmware that could mellow it out, but it was still an issue), it's WAY overdue for a timing belt, and they're prone to electrical issues. 06-07 would be the best year for a V6 Vue - Honda drivetrain, but they still had electrical issues. 04-05 also had the Honda drivetrain, but Honda was fighting transmission issues at that point. Voltage posted:What on Earth is this crap in the cooling system of my 01' miata? I'm replacing the HG and it's just full of this poo poo :/ Looks like someone put in stop leak/block sealant/etc.
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Jul 27, 2019 16:49
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damnit.
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Jul 27, 2019 16:50
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quote:
I assume just flush the gently caress out of it before i fire it up? Basically the radiator cracked, friend brought it to a shop and said the engine was bad and she gave it to me half taken apart. I stripped off the head and everything looks ok - compression was fine and HG didn't look blown so I'm putting it all back together now - super necessary to machine this head? As you can see no coolant reached the cylinders so I'm guessing its alright... 
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Jul 27, 2019 16:54
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Nobody can tell from a picture if you need to have that head skimmed or not. You need to put a straight edge over it in every possible direction and make sure it's dead flat. And yes, you need to flush it, but you aren't going to be able to flush either the radiator or the heater enough to make them ever worth a poo poo again.
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Jul 27, 2019 17:03
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I already got a brand new rad but i guess ill need a heatercore.... Hopefully i can take it out without having to remove the whole dash... Looking more and more like this is going to be a track rat.
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Jul 27, 2019 17:11
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I mean you can still run the heater lines to the core, just don't expect it to put out much heat if that poo poo solidified in there.
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Jul 27, 2019 17:38
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BP Miatas need good flow through the heater core or they overheat. If you don't replace the heater core, bypass it.
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Jul 27, 2019 18:56
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0toShifty posted:A lot of Honda/Acura products will throw VVT codes when the oil is low, or of the wrong viscosity. Thanks for the tip. It's actually a Toyota - I didn't include the car as I wasn't looking for help in that post, although everyone in this thread has been incredibly helpful. I was just blowing off steam.
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Jul 27, 2019 21:18
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 27, 2019 22:26
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I'm having this intermittent issue with the backup camera on my 15' Mazda 3 where sometimes the display will look like a VHS tape from 1991 with tons of static and vertical scrolling. I'm assuming it's a faulty connection or something somewhere, but I'm just not sure where to start looking. Every other part of the infotainment system works just fine.
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Jul 28, 2019 00:07
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My Ford Focus SES 2009's A/C has been blowing warm air for some time. Given that it happened gradually I just assumed it needed a freon recharge. Took my car to a mechanic for its state inspection and decided to get the A/C checked out. They did a "full" A/C service, found nothing wrong, recharged the freon, and it was working fine for a few days, but now it's just blowing warm air again. Turning the A/C off for a few minutes and turning it on again I can detect a small 2-3 second blast of cool air, then warm again. I guess my question is, is there any part of the post-recharge process where warm air is normal for a few days or should it just be working normally/consistently right off the bat. I'll take the car back in to the same mechanic, because I'm assuming something wasn't connected up properly rather than something just happened to break down/fail two days after it passed a full A/C check.
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Jul 28, 2019 00:09
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Retroblique posted:My Ford Focus SES 2009's A/C has been blowing warm air for some time. Given that it happened gradually I just assumed it needed a freon recharge. Took my car to a mechanic for its state inspection and decided to get the A/C checked out. They did a "full" A/C service, found nothing wrong, recharged the freon, and it was working fine for a few days, but now it's just blowing warm air again. Turning the A/C off for a few minutes and turning it on again I can detect a small 2-3 second blast of cool air, then warm again. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888018
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Jul 28, 2019 02:25
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Kibbles n Shits posted:I'm having this intermittent issue with the backup camera on my 15' Mazda 3 where sometimes the display will look like a VHS tape from 1991 with tons of static and vertical scrolling. I'm assuming it's a faulty connection or something somewhere, but I'm just not sure where to start looking. Every other part of the infotainment system works just fine. That's a common issue I guess as someone in the Mazda thread also had it. I think they cleaned the connector or something. Post in the MZR thread and ask about it there too.
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Jul 28, 2019 03:55
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puberty worked me over posted:I ended up buying an 03' Odyssey with 133km instead because it had no rust on it, everything worked mint, and it was cheap as gently caress. Guess now I just hope the transmission lasts? PO said he fixed some electrical issue with the transmission a year or two ago. Well, like the Saturn, replace the timing belt ASAP unless the PO has records of it being done recently. It's not due yet by miles/km yet, but it should be getting its 3rd one (counting the original) about now if you go by age. Unlike the Saturn, the timing belt parts are readily available, and it's a much easier job. 03 was the tail end of the transmission problems on them; build date and how it was driven will probably be the biggest factors. And resale will be a little higher than on the Saturn.
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Jul 28, 2019 15:46
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Someone who has more recent experience with points / external coils than I do: what's the upper bound for total resistance on the coil and ballast resistor? My Opel smoked the factory resistor wire. Since I hate resistor wires on principle, and would like to have a real +12V switched source underhood anyway, I'm going to replace the resistor wire with regular wire. Bought an Accel coil and a ballast resistor from AutoZone. Despite each saying they are about 1.4 ohm on the spec sheet, both of them tested out to more like 2.4-2.5 ohms each. The target total from the factory on this car is 3 ohms. Should I run it with the new parts, or try to find a lower resistance ballast resistor?
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Jul 29, 2019 08:10
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I think I know what's wrong with my car. I think it's an (intermittently) dodgy O2 sensor on Bank 2. Not 100% sure what the problem is, I'm thinking maybe loose connection or fouled up. I don't really know what causes them to fail. If it's not that, it's the fuel flow sensor. How big a job would it be to replace (or can you clean them?) on a 1MZ-FE? I have very few tools and even less know how, but a lot of spunk and a positive attitude. If I was paying someone to do it what's ballpark on parts/labour time? simplefish fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Jul 29, 2019 |
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Jul 29, 2019 09:38
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Hi I'm back. I'm the weirdo oddly insisting on changing the transmission fluid on a 2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport AWD with 60k miles. It was recommended to get snow tires on a different set of wheels to take full advantage of AWD in the winter. I found this on CL. On my car now: Wheels: Factory OEM Aluminum, 18" x 8" front, (18" x 8.5" rear), 5 lug 114.3 bolt pattern, 45mm offset front, (50mm rear) Tires: 225/40ZR18 front, 255/35ZR18 rear On that CL link: Wheels: Unknown brand steel, 16" x ???", 5 lug 114.3 bolt pattern, unknown offset Tires: 205/55/16 On the side of my house as my winter set from my old car (2002 IS300 sedan): Wheels: Factory OEM Aluminum, 17" x 7", (17" x 7.5" rear), 5 lug 114.3 bolt pattern, 50mm offset Tires: Can't remember, and I'd have to get new snows anyway. I found this calculator and what I'm comparing seems like this would be within the threshold of a size change that'd be safe and not hurt anything on the car, transmission, etc.   So my questions are: Am I using this tool and reading it right? Is this the right way to accomplish what I'm looking to do? If I got these tires/wheels from CL would they work? Is the offset difference a problem for either the CL ones or my spare set? Am I saving any money or is this a dumb idea and I shouldn't bother with CL or anything like this and just go to a real shop? Should I try to use the wheels from my old car, get new snows, and balanced and everything, or not bother? (Only caveat with last question is that all 4 wheels are bent. They did not handle the potholes of upstate NY very well and I am just so proud to admit I found and unsuccessfully avoided every pothole in the state during the time I had those on.) yamdankee fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jul 29, 2019 |
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Jul 29, 2019 18:47
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Will 16” wheels even clear your brakes?
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Jul 29, 2019 19:10
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Ah, good question! I can't find anyone in my cursory search with my car with 16" wheels. Maybe I should be thinking differently. Looks like TireRack is having a sale. Link Maybe I should get those and another set of the same dimension wheels 18x8/18x8.5 and use that in the winter?
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Jul 29, 2019 19:31
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Check the forums for your car, I guarantee someone has tried to put on the smallest possible wheel that will fit over the brakes for winter use.
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Jul 29, 2019 20:10
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Yeah they're saying there's no way 16" would clear these brakes and there's no options on tirerack.com for 16" for my car. So I guess I'll just try to find another 18" set. Someone said my speedometer would be off. Is that ok? Does it wear on anything more? Edit: Any reason these wouldn't work? https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/wto/d/wappingers-falls-18-sport-edition-a7/6940112922.html yamdankee fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jul 29, 2019 |
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Jul 29, 2019 20:36
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yamdankee posted:Yeah they're saying there's no way 16" would clear these brakes and there's no options on tirerack.com for 16" for my car. So I guess I'll just try to find another 18" set. Someone said my speedometer would be off. Is that ok? Does it wear on anything more? Your speedo will be off unless the overall diameter is the same, which is what the calculator you posted a screenshot of above appears to help with. Edit: I'd be cautious about those wheels and tires only because the ad doesn't list the offset for the wheel, which you also need to match. So, you need:
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jul 29, 2019 |
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Jul 29, 2019 22:31
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