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Also hub centric/lug centric.
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Jul 29, 2019 23:44
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C-Bangin' it 
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Ok I found these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-IS-OEM-17-Base-Model-Wheels-Set-Of-4/173938839886?hash=item287f90114e:g:ShMAAOSwfhNcnNhZ Looks like they used to be on a 3rd gen IS like mine. Difference is obvious 17", squared (all 7.5 width instead of 8 in front 8.5 in back), and offset is 45 all around instead of 45 in front and 50 in back. Everything checks out with size calculators, speedo will be accurate. Can take advantage of free shipping...would you guys submit an offer or is this a great price as it is? Maybe wait and shop around since I have a bit of time before winter?
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Jul 30, 2019 13:25
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I installed LED high beams today to replace my horrible dim halogen bulbs. It came with a converter thingy that I plug into the car’s bulb socket and it sits between the car’s wiring and the LED bulb, if that makes sense. My question is: where exactly is the correct way to put the converter? I would assume this converter would heat up a little, and there was no room for me to keep it dangling outside (like I did with my turn signal resistors) due to the dust cap. However, I was able to stuff everything into the housing. All youtube videos barely even show where the extra wiring goes. But it looks like it’s kind of designed to be shoved into the housing. I’m just worried about creating a potential fire hazard.
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Jul 31, 2019 01:14
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Krakkles posted:
Can you elaborate on this a bit? I was under the impression that offset does not have to match (and indeed my new wheels offset does not match, although it's close) but Tire Rack didn't have any issue with it when I bought them nor has anyone else with similar wheels on a WRX ever said they need the same offset, so long as you have clearance for everything. Stock wheels were 18x8.5 +55 offset. My replacements are 18x8.5 +50 offset, although plenty around +40 were an option. Apparently a super common wheel replacement is +42 offset. Obviously the lug pattern must match, but I don't know why offset would if you have clearances to turn the wheel fully, based on my understanding of how offset works. Disclaimer: I don't know much about this stuff. Edit: I'm not sure what the offset is on my winter wheels but they're 18x8 and I think +42 actually. I've had no problems except when I hit a pothole on the interstate at night going 75 and blew a tire with a hole in the sidewall, which I don't attribute to offset. ssb fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jul 31, 2019 |
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Jul 31, 2019 02:01
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rear end posted:I installed LED high beams today to replace my horrible dim halogen bulbs. It came with a converter thingy that I plug into the car’s bulb socket and it sits between the car’s wiring and the LED bulb, if that makes sense. The correct way would be to not put LEDs in a halogen light fixture so you don’t blind everyone
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Jul 31, 2019 02:12
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rear end posted:My question is: where exactly is the correct way to put the converter? If a return is out of the question, the nearest garbage can.
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Jul 31, 2019 02:34
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Is there a good resource for service manuals for 90s light vans? Something like the Nissan Caravan, Hyundai H100, Mitsubishi L300 (1986-1994 model) I always used Haynes before but they don't seem to have these models/years Would appreciate suggestions for .pdf or digital versions as I can't get print ones delivered, I don't mind paying for them though, not just asking for 
simplefish fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Jul 31, 2019 |
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Jul 31, 2019 08:59
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:The correct way would be to not put LEDs in a halogen light fixture so you don’t blind everyone Geoj posted:If a return is out of the question, the nearest garbage can.  Now that you got that out of your systems, would you please like to answer my question, in case the thing sets on fire?
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Jul 31, 2019 09:34
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rear end posted:
Unironic username spotted That was the earnest advice. If you want brighter headlights, either spring for Silver Stars and replace them every year, or do a proper conversion for your head lights housings. LEDs in halogen housing really will dazzle other drivers, creating a major hazard. I find it likely that the majority opinion of AI would consider your fire hazard to be of little concern in comparison. tl;dr if you're putting LEDs in halogen housings I couldn't care less if your car catches on fire Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Jul 31, 2019 |
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Jul 31, 2019 10:09
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Beach Bum posted:Unironic username spotted I am going to give you the benefit of the doubt and assume you did not read my first post well. I am installing LED bulbs for high beams, which a) are going to be bright as poo poo regardless, b) my car turns them off automatically when it detects a car and c) already have a good cutoff. The high beams are SEPARATE bulbs. My low beam headlights are normal, projector, straight from the factory HIDs. No one is getting blinded. Beach Bum posted:tl;dr if you're putting LEDs in halogen housings I couldn't care less if your car catches on fire What a nice, completely normal thing to say.
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Jul 31, 2019 10:15
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rear end posted:I am going to give you the benefit of the doubt and assume you did not read my first post well. I am installing LED bulbs for high beams, which a) are going to be bright as poo poo regardless, b) my car turns them off automatically when it detects a car and c) already have a good cutoff. The high beams are SEPARATE bulbs. My low beam headlights are normal, projector, straight from the factory HIDs. No one is getting blinded. Oh hell with it, mea culpa Having a ton of wiring stuffed into a headlight housing sounds like a fire hazard to me. You should probably find a different solution. This solution would likely involve zipties and forgoing the OE weather sealing, as OE fitment generally relies on OE parts. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Jul 31, 2019 |
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Jul 31, 2019 10:28
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Beach Bum posted:
Haha actually I'm gonna go grab some pics because I'm starting to think I don't even know if that "converter" even is a converter, or just an anti-flicker module or something.
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Jul 31, 2019 10:54
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Also there's been quite enough fire in AI recently we don't want any more
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Jul 31, 2019 11:01
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Beach Bum posted:Also there's been quite enough fire in AI recently we don't want any more I'm very wary of this poo poo. An old friend of mine installed cheapo HIDs that burned his car. I sprung up, at least. Okay yeah the manual refers to it as a bulb driver. I have no idea how much that thing heats up, if at all.  This is the "bulb drive"  Kinda shoved it alongside all the other wires inside. I have no idea if it's supposed to dangle outside, like a resistor (which I know for a fact heat up, which is why they should be either hanging loose or touching metal), because the dust cap won't let any wire hang outside at all. update: hours of googling led me to... just buy a bigger dust cap. There we go, lol. Basically this: Beach Bum posted:This solution would likely involve zipties and forgoing the OE weather sealing, as OE fitment generally relies on OE parts. Thank you! ass fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Jul 31, 2019 |
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Jul 31, 2019 11:07
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There was someone here that used to track a Magnum SRT8 with what looked like Enkei RPF1 wheels. Does anyone recall what size, offset, and tire size that setup was? Also, if the former owner of the car in question sees this, what was your suspension setup? Looking at Chargers of roughly the same vintage and would like to do something similar if I wind up with one.
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Jul 31, 2019 13:48
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Had my wife’s Peugeot 208 into the garage yesterday to get the air con recharged. They noted the coolant reservoir was empty and topped it up. I’d been out in the car the day before and the temp was bang on, and no warning lights. Although I’ve got a feeling Peugeot in their infinite wisdom may not have fitted a coolant level sensor. This morning the coolant reservoir was pretty much empty again. I figured the missing coolant may have disappeared to fill an air lock, if it had been very low. I’ve topped it up and been out for a run and coolant temp (via obd) is sitting at 80c, rising to 84 under heavy load and dropping back down after. Fans kick on as they should. It does not appear to be losing coolant. I’m seeing a few drops from the back of the engine but I suspect that it is AC condensation - it seems not to be coolant. TLDR here is the stupid question - there is a coolant line running back into the expansion tank that is pissing coolant back into the tank when the engine is warm - is that normal? I haven’t messed about with a GDCS is 15 years so I’m a bit thick about these things now. I’m about to drive to the centre of London from Scotland in the middle of a heatwave tomorrow, so I’m keen to make sure it’s fine and not just suck it and see! I’d take my new to me shitheap Focus, but it’s developed a mysterious ecu issue and hasn’t seen an oil change in 30,000 miles 
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Jul 31, 2019 14:30
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stump posted:Had my wife’s Peugeot 208 into the garage yesterday to get the air con recharged. They noted the coolant reservoir was empty and topped it up. I’d been out in the car the day before and the temp was bang on, and no warning lights. Although I’ve got a feeling Peugeot in their infinite wisdom may not have fitted a coolant level sensor. Can you slip a bit of cardboard under the car to catch the drips you are seeing so you can rule out the a/c? It probably is a/c but it's worth knowing. I recently had a coolant hose tear develop over a week or two and while it was going the rate of coolant loss was all over the place- probably worth triple checking your hoses, especially at bends or attachments
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Jul 31, 2019 15:12
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Managed to catch some and it’s clear as a mountain stream - definitely AC. Ran it for a bit on a slope w/ heater on max as a poor mans bleed - I’ve not got a clue where the bleed points are and google hasn’t been helpful so far. Taking it on a hour and a half run right now and if it’s fine after that I’ll call it good. I’ve got recovery if things deteriorate! I suspect there may be a slight leak at the expansion tank - which would explain how it was low in the first place. Edit: Engine is pretty jammed in - it’s a 1.6 litre turbo diesel in a wee hatch - so I can’t check hoses easily but aside from the AC and a wee bit at the expansion tank it’s looks dry.
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Jul 31, 2019 15:42
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shortspecialbus posted:Can you elaborate on this a bit? I was under the impression that offset does not have to match (and indeed my new wheels offset does not match, although it's close) but Tire Rack didn't have any issue with it when I bought them nor has anyone else with similar wheels on a WRX ever said they need the same offset, so long as you have clearance for everything. You've got the basic idea with "[offset doesn't have to match] if you have the clearances to turn the wheel fully". Multiple offsets may well fit a car acceptably, but there are offsets that can prevent wheels from fitting at all on a given vehicle. I just wanted to bring it up in case he/she wasn't already considering it.
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Jul 31, 2019 16:41
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Krakkles posted:You're right, I was simplifying there. If someone needs simple advice, "the same offset as stock" is the safest route. Ok, cool - thanks for the clarification. I wasn't confident enough to assume that you were simplifying for that purpose, but it makes sense. Thanks!
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Jul 31, 2019 17:47
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simplefish posted:I think I know what's wrong with my car. What P-code are you setting?
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Jul 31, 2019 19:43
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rear end posted:I am going to give you the benefit of the doubt and assume you did not read my first post well. I am installing LED bulbs for high beams, which a) are going to be bright as poo poo regardless, b) my car turns them off automatically when it detects a car and c) already have a good cutoff. The high beams are SEPARATE bulbs. My low beam headlights are normal, projector, straight from the factory HIDs. No one is getting blinded. Its still stupid. The reflectors in your headlights are precisely designed around the physical placement and shape of the bulb filament. Jamming a LED light source into whatever housing and expecting it to work is like assuming any random pair of glasses will improve your vision. Even if you take blinding others out of the equation you're going to end up with worse lighting performance with the LED replacement over a OE-spec halogen bulb - because LEDs emit light differently than a halogen filament and not in the right location, so the beam pattern will scatter all to hell and will be largely ineffective at lighting anything beyond 100-150' in front of you - if you're lucky. But don't take my word for it - here's what the professionals have to say on the matter. Geoj fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jul 31, 2019 |
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Jul 31, 2019 21:30
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Geoj posted:Its still stupid. The reflectors in your headlights are precisely designed around the physical placement and shape of the bulb filament. Jamming a LED light source into whatever housing and expecting it to work is like assuming any random pair of glasses will improve your vision. No, you're right. I definitely did notice the shorter light throw as I was trying it out. This poo poo has given me nothing but a headache and the seller was super loving rude to me when I asked them questions so I'm sending the stuff back. I just put back on my old Philips Xtremevision halogens. Another Goon Success Story. ass fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 31, 2019 |
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Jul 31, 2019 22:40
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For a while I struggled with lovely headlights in my KTM super Moto. I found a shop selling a higher wattage bulb that sure enough was brighter ... except the bike was a paintshaker and the filament in the bulb snapped on me two or three times in a few hundred miles of riding, at most.
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Jul 31, 2019 22:43
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If your headlight housing uses H11 bulbs you can do a cheap/easy upgrade to H9. They're physically identical with the H9 having higher draw, resulting in more output and a shorter lifespan. All you have to do is remove a plastic tab from the socket and trim some metal off of the retaining ring to match the pattern on a H11 base.
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Jul 31, 2019 22:50
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rear end posted:No, you're right. I definitely did notice the shorter light throw as I was trying it out. This poo poo has given me nothing but a headache and the seller was super loving rude to me when I asked them questions so I'm sending the stuff back. I just put back on my old Philips Xtremevision halogens. What car is it? If there was a trim model or later model year that shares the same body style that had HIDs or LEDs you can often retrofit in a useful and road legal way.
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Jul 31, 2019 23:01
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totalnewbie posted:What P-code are you setting? P1349: Fuel Sensor B Circuit high Apparently on Toyotas that can also mean VVT System Fault O2S1 Bank 1 trim is 2.5-3.5% higher than O2S1 Bank 2, Bank 2 is sometimes negative% (Bank 1 never is) The values fluctuate a lot even at idle STFT Bank 1 is 2.3-5% higher than Bank 2, Bank 2 is sometimes negative% (Bank 1 never is) The values fluctuate a lot even at idle When the CEL comes on it's shortly after all Bank 2 and fuel flow sensors read 0 (also 0 volts if I look at that instead of trim %) Then when I start getting values for what had been hard zeroes the idle rpm drops from 1500 to 700, the CEL goes off, and it's ok for a while. That's why I think it's Bank 2 O2 messing up the fuel sensor by association, or a fuel sensor (but bank 1 can still give me a trim % which I thought was air/fuel ratio so surely there's still a working fuel sensor somewhere?) The CEL seems to come on after driving low speed for a while especially uphill, or when I go over a bump. As most bumps are low speed I've not really isolated which, but that's why I was thinking it was an O2 sensor getting crudded up by going low speed and engine running too rich for too long or something, or a loose connection. If I coast the car in neutral (engine running) wherever possible for a while, the CEL tends to go off - I was thinking maybe not shoving loads of fuel into the engine, and allowing good airflow might "uncrud" the sensor. Also, again, I'm not sure if it's the driving style or just waiting that "fixes" it. Engine is getting up to temp fine (88°C) I took a video, if you think it'd be useful I can edit and upload highlights But honestly I don't have space to work on the car, any tools beyond a jack and a screwdriver, nowhere to store tools if I bought em, and no experience changing out sensors. At this point it's frustrated curiosity more than anything else.
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Jul 31, 2019 23:06
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Geoj posted:If your headlight housing uses H11 bulbs you can do a cheap/easy upgrade to H9. They're physically identical with the H9 having higher draw, resulting in more output and a shorter lifespan. 9005. Motronic posted:What car is it? If there was a trim model or later model year that shares the same body style that had HIDs or LEDs you can often retrofit in a useful and road legal way. A 2014 Dodge Charger. Even the top trim SRT model has halogen high beams, and HID everything else because Chrysler.
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Jul 31, 2019 23:12
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simplefish posted:snip Caveat: I'm an engineer not a mechanic, so I know gently caress-all about cars. If multiple sensors are going to 0V momentarily then it really sounds wiring-harness related. You could have an intermittent open somewhere or a short to ground. Look for something in the harness. quote:If I coast the car in neutral (engine running) wherever possible for a while, the CEL tends to go off - I was thinking maybe not shoving loads of fuel into the engine, and allowing good airflow might "uncrud" the sensor. If you're going to coast, you should keep the car in drive; when you're in neutral, it's the same as idling. It's also not really good airflow. And "uncrud" the sensor is not really a thing. I've never seen a fuel sensor code as a result of the O2 sensor (but, again, engineer not mechanic) so I'd honestly look at the fuel flow sensor after the harness. Pretty sure your O2 sensor itself is fine. But again, I know gently caress-all.
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Jul 31, 2019 23:19
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rear end posted:9005. You could do a 9011 swap. Same idea as the H11/H9.
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Jul 31, 2019 23:46
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Geoj posted:You could do a 9011 swap. Same idea as the H11/H9. Looked it up and hell yeah that sounds pretty drat easy to do. Bought a pair of Philips 9011 HIR bulbs. This will be fun. Thank you for the suggestion!
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Aug 1, 2019 00:32
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rear end posted:A 2014 Dodge Charger. Even the top trim SRT model has halogen high beams, and HID everything else because Chrysler. You should seriously look into HID parts. It's really not any worse (on light output) than LEDs of the same general era. And the most important part is that you'll have similar light output to other people on the road at night. We all used to be fine with lovely rear end sealed beams, but then when the light output increased on some cars it started to night blind other people with lovely sealed beams. This is basically an arms race over night vision. You just need to keep up, not burn people's retinas.
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Aug 1, 2019 01:26
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Motronic posted:You should seriously look into factory HID parts. Fixed, if you're not already running factory HIDs for low beams. Most car makers have stuck with halogen for high beams because they're just not used as much. And I've seen some insanely bright halogen high beams.
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Aug 1, 2019 10:31
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totalnewbie posted:Caveat: I'm an engineer not a mechanic, so I know gently caress-all about cars. Thanks man Bad news: the CEL is now constant. Even after I completely cleared the code, started it up again, no light - for all of less than a minute. Same code again. Not sure where I was getting the fuel flow sensor reading 0 from - I seem to be misremembering as when I went back over my notes I didn't write that down. Also more bad news: the fuel system is now saying "open loop due to insufficient engine temperature" and it's apparently ECU #1 and ECU #2 saying that. Before, when the CEL was intermittent, it was definitely doing open/closed based on whether I was using the accelerator pedal Tomorrow I am going to try disconnecting and reconnecting the Bank 2 O2 Sensor, because as luck would have it that's the one I can reach without having to dive deep simplefish fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Aug 1, 2019 |
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Aug 1, 2019 10:34
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simplefish posted:Also more bad news: the fuel system is now saying "open due to insufficient engine temperature" and it's apparently ECU #1 and ECU #2 saying that. That's normal if the engine isn't warmed up. Now if it's fully warmed up, then that's an issue. What does OBD2 report the engine temp as being?
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Aug 1, 2019 10:44
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Sorry, meant to include that. It was 97°C and up to 98°C
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Aug 1, 2019 11:01
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rear end posted:9005. Also "because chrysler": Polish up the headlight lenses if they're faded/yellowing. The HIR (9011, 9012) bulbs are dope as gently caress. Can confirm this.
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Aug 1, 2019 12:44
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wesleywillis posted:Also "because chrysler": Polish up the headlight lenses if they're faded/yellowing. Chrysler does a lot of moronic poo poo (my front suspension's clunking and the car has 60k miles on it, because they used cheap rear end bushings) but yellowing headlight lenses happens across all vehicles, no? Either way, mine are fine for now.
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Aug 1, 2019 14:14
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Speaking of bushings, now that I remembered, I've been looking around everywhere for replacement bushings. Chrysler, obviously, only sells complete control arms with bushings installed. Aftermarket bushings are only for the AWD model, for some reason? Do I just suck at googling or are there really no replacement bushings around?
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Aug 1, 2019 14:16
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rear end posted:Chrysler does a lot of moronic poo poo (my front suspension's clunking and the car has 60k miles on it, because they used cheap rear end bushings) but yellowing headlight lenses happens across all vehicles, no? Either way, mine are fine for now. Yup, but thats also a common reason why people complain their headlights suck. One would just assume that "because Chrysler" it probably happens faster.
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Aug 1, 2019 15:08
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