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dorkanoid posted:I'm having some weird temperatures on my 3600, the temperature offset that was an issue with monitoring early Ryzens isn't a thing anymore, right? It's funny that you mention this in this thread. I was encountering almost exactly the same issue with the Ryzen 3600 that I built this week, and posted about it in the PC building thread. Essentially, the idle temperatures as well as the CPU clock are all over the place - CPU temperature jumps up by 12 degrees in an instant, then the CPU clocks down and the fans spin up, bringing the temperature down again, rinse repeat. After a lot of digging I found that this at least isn't harmful, and in my case the temperature was also reading too high in general. Khorne posted:This is a common zen2 issue and will hopefully be fixed with a chipset or bios update. There's no real cause and it's normal provided your load temperatures aren't going crazy. Soricidus posted:With ryzen balanced mode, my cpu hits ~80C regularly in games with associated fan noise etc. With ryzen power saver it barely breaks 45C in the same games, and the frame rate isn’t affected because none of them is remotely cpu bound so there is literally no reason for the cpu to be boosting at all. What is the 'correct' way to set up a Ryzen at the moment? Do the defaults work fine or should I change something in BIOS/Windows?
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Aug 2, 2019 11:54
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Lord Stimperor posted:What is the 'correct' way to set up a Ryzen at the moment? Do the defaults work fine or should I change something in BIOS/Windows? There may be some minor performance regressions with that chipset driver until a new bios comes out from motherboard manufacturers. Khorne fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Aug 2, 2019 |
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Aug 2, 2019 12:49
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I'm working on a used+budget APU build, and having already acquired an FM2+ motherboard, my choices of CPU are: A8-7650K (3.3 GHz base clock, Radeon R7 w/ 384 shaders) - 68 USD A8-7670K (3.6 GHz base clock, Radeon R7 w/ 384 shaders) - 112 USD A10-7700K (3.4 GHz base clock, Radeon R7 w/ 384 shaders) - 84 USD A10-7850K (3.7 GHz base clock, Radeon R7 w/ 512 shaders) - 82 USD A10-7860K (3.6 GHz base clock, Radeon R7 w/ 512 shaders) - 94 USD A10-7870K (3.9 GHz base clock, Radeon R7 w/ 512 shaders) - 84 USD A10-7890K (4.1 GHz base clock, Radeon R7 w/ 512 shaders) - 128 USD my thinking here is, if I'm actually going to be using the iGPU, then I should go for the A10s and disregard that A8-7650K even if it's some ~20 USD cheaper, because the iGPUs on the A8s are that much weaker then, picking among the A10s, the 7870K would be the one to get given the pricing, since it's just two bucks more than the 7850K, and even cheaper than the 7860K, for a higher base clock, but the extra +300 Mhz on the base isn't worth the extra 44 USD on the 7890K, especially since the K's are overclockable anyway and I might be able to squeeze out a little more performance. does my thought process make sense? I recognize that this very much not a current bit of kit, which is why I'm asking here instead of the parts-picking thread. I just don't know if there's any peculiarities between these chips that my research using cpu-world wouldn't be able to capture. gradenko_2000 fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Aug 2, 2019 |
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Aug 2, 2019 13:14
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They're all crap, so the real question is 'what are you trying to use it for?' For reference, I had a A6-5400k system for a few years and it would run fallout 3 at 1080p minimum everything at, I want to say, ~30 fps, but it's been a while. For general home PC workloads I'd be surprised if any of them were insufficient, but I haven't had a chance to try them personally. E: you could literally get a 2200g for those prices. Even on a budget this likey isn't the best route to go. Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Aug 2, 2019 |
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Aug 2, 2019 13:23
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ItBreathes posted:They're all crap, so the real question is 'what are you trying to use it for?' "general home PC workloads" and retro-gaming, mostly. I'm getting a couple of the other parts scavenged from old bits and bobs from my parents, but the motherboard is FM2+, otherwise I'd jump right into the AM4 platform.
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Aug 2, 2019 13:28
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You said you are using old parts and bought a motherboard and need a CPU, RAM is pretty drat cheap now so what are you trying to use from your old computer? I'm not familiar at all with APUs but the 2200G is only $80 and looks like a +50% performance over a A10-7890K. If you just accept the motherboard as a bad purchase you will likely have a better and cheaper computer going with a Zen based APU. Someone else can likely point you in a better direction on an APU. I've used an A10 in a laptop before and it was a pretty terrible experience. I don't know the exact model but I'd rather have an i3. edit: sounds like you may have a use case with old game emulation, but have you thought about a raspberry pi at that point? I only wrote the above because I'd hate for someone to go out build a computer for something and it just turn out badly and a giant waste of money. My brother insisted on a tiny case and refused to believe he couldn't get a graphics card into the case that was good, half height GPUs are not very good, and he ended up buying a PS4 and just not gaming on that PC ever. The point it, it sucks when you spend a lot of money and get something you can't use for what you wanted. pixaal fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Aug 2, 2019 |
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Aug 2, 2019 13:34
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gradenko_2000 posted:"general home PC workloads" and retro-gaming, mostly. I'm getting a couple of the other parts scavenged from old bits and bobs from my parents, but the motherboard is FM2+, otherwise I'd jump right into the AM4 platform. For home workloads and 2D gaming I suspect any would be fine, I wouldn't expect 360 era 3D games to run in a way that'd you want. If all you have is a Mobo you're in danger of spending $80 on a worthless CPU just to save $60 on a motherboard. If you have the ram as well it shifts the calc a bit. Another thing to consider is to put a buying post in SA-Mart. If any goons have one of these you could probably pick it up for $20 or even just postage.
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Aug 2, 2019 13:43
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Please don't spend money on an A anything cpu  Someone will give you a free one, even then the postage is barely worth it. sauer kraut fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Aug 2, 2019 |
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Aug 2, 2019 13:49
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Yeah those prices are throwing good money after bad. Don't buy old stock from retail.
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Aug 2, 2019 13:52
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If you live near a Microcenter, you can get a 2200g for $60 and get $30 off a B450 motherboard to go with it. That makes cheapest compatible board just $25 (an Gigabyte a320m) and the excellent ASRock B450m Pro4 just $50. If you get the a320m you'll need to get the Microcenter support staff to upgrade the bios to a version compatible with the 2200g - the B450 is compatible out of the box.
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Aug 2, 2019 13:54
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I'm not in America, so prices are a little different, but 80 USD for an Ryzen 3 2200G is close enough to what I can get here that I can see that it'd be a better idea to go that route. Thanks for the feedback.
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Aug 2, 2019 14:05
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Stickman posted:If you live near a Microcenter, you can get a 2200g for $60 and get $30 off a B450 motherboard to go with it. That makes cheapest compatible board just $25 (an Gigabyte a320m) and the excellent ASRock B450m Pro4 just $50. If you get the a320m you'll need to get the Microcenter support staff to upgrade the bios to a version compatible with the 2200g - the B450 is compatible out of the box. Any 3XX Mobos on the shelf at this point should have an updated bios, though it'll say on he box. More importantly, you dont get the discount with a 2200g
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Aug 2, 2019 14:15
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ItBreathes posted:Any 3XX Mobos on the shelf at this point should have an updated bios, though it'll say on he box. Thanks, whoops! gradenko_2000 posted:I'm not in America, so prices are a little different, but 80 USD for an Ryzen 3 2200G is close enough to what I can get here that I can see that it'd be a better idea to go that route. Motherboard/RAM prices could change the calculus outside the US, but it’s definitely the best place to start! You might also want to check used computer prices is there’s a local eBay/craigslist equivalent. An older i5/i7 and any discrete GPU better than a 750 Ti will blow away a 2200g. Stickman fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Aug 2, 2019 |
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Aug 2, 2019 15:09
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Khorne posted:There's a new chipset driver that fixes the boost situation. https://download.amd.com/drivers/amd_chipset_drivers.exe Thanks, I'll keep that in mind in case I need it. Tried some GTA Online today, and the CPU temperatures were glued to somewhere in the 50s. It seems to work nicely. What I don't quite understand yet is what to do with the RAM. I bought two sticks of DDR4 3200 RAM. They're running at far less speed. If I understand correctly, I have to enable overclocking to get them to 3200. But I'm not quite sure what then. Some posters write that the motherboard automatically learns how to set up the RAM. Others recommend an online calculator to see what my RAM can handle. How do I get my 3200 sticks to run at 3200?
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Aug 2, 2019 19:15
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Have to enable xmp in the bios settings and that's usually enough, but you might have to bump the memory clock down if the xmp profile is not stable.
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Aug 2, 2019 19:35
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Lord Stimperor posted:How do I get my 3200 sticks to run at 3200? 3200 is technically overclocked, you should have a setting in BIOS under RAM that will let you tell it the timings just put in what is on your box of RAM, the RAM will run at the rated speed. My MSI B450 Tomahawk has an option called "TRY IT!" and it just lists RAM timings in a drop down that you can select and it runs the RAM at that. A worst case scenario is just resetting BIOS if you mess the timings up. There is no way to break the RAM unless you are also messing with voltages, and even then it's going to require you making large jumps in voltage to really mess it up so it wont even run at stock voltage anymore. You are very likely good with running it at whatever the RAM is rated for so just stick with that unless you want to see how far you can push it. Do you happen to know the CL rating on the 3200RAM? You will need that to properly set it but you can always guess and check, the only danger is in changing the voltage, I'd still start with say 3200CL16 if you don't know then try it at 3200CL14 if that's stable see if 3200CL12 is stable (timings have to be an even number on Ryzen). 3600CL16 is considered equivalent silicon quality to 3200CL12, so you should be able to play with speed and timings until you find something you like if you want to min/max that last frame. Realistically just set it to what is on the box and be done with it until you have a performance problem.
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Aug 2, 2019 19:36
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Arzachel posted:Have to enable xmp in the bios settings and that's usually enough, but you might have to bump the memory clock down if the xmp profile is not stable. This is the correct answer, enable the XMP profile in the Bios and the RAM will run at the speed you've bought unless you want to tinker with overclocking. No need to manually enter anything.
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Aug 2, 2019 19:44
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I think I completely missed the XMP option in BIOS when I saw the shiny TRY IT button in BIOS and it listed a bunch of RAM timing configs and I just manually selected the one mine is rated for. This sounds easier, just find and enable XMP OP.
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Aug 2, 2019 19:46
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pixaal posted:I think I completely missed the XMP option in BIOS when I saw the shiny TRY IT button in BIOS and it listed a bunch of RAM timing configs and I just manually selected the one mine is rated for. This sounds easier, just find and enable XMP OP. This is surprisingly common, for some reason mobo manufacturers stick the setting in the weirdest places
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Aug 2, 2019 19:58
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Arzachel posted:This is surprisingly common, for some reason mobo manufacturers stick the setting in the weirdest places ASUS loves to tie their AI overclocking to the setting, even if you are using stock clocks. So you go to just turn XMP on, and suddenly your CPU is getting an extra .3v at all times for no reason.
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Aug 2, 2019 20:11
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Oh, okay. I used the TRY IT once and that resulted in my computer being stuck in perpetual POST until I cleared CMOS, I'll do the XMP thing next.
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Aug 2, 2019 20:57
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New Agesa would be nice, anytime soon.
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Aug 2, 2019 21:34
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apropos man posted:That Anandtech article says a system that would previously idle at ~2.2GHz now idles at 3GHz. I don't like this. I'd rather see that poo poo clocking low when my PC is doing nothing. Sounds like what my 2700X was doing when I had it clocked at 4.25GHz on all cores. I fixed that by letting XFR/PBO do its thing instead.
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Aug 2, 2019 22:14
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It doesn't matter what some software says your idling at, if that readout is even correct. None of them can be trusted with the new Zens in particular. Was it average or peak, 'measured' over how many 100's of ms, only the highest core or some median? Ideally you wanna measure board power with a multitool, or a really good killawatt for total system power if you're sure sure the GPU stays idle. Also your OC numbers don't mean poo poo, GDDR memory in particular, only benchmark numbers. Ok /rant over
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Aug 2, 2019 22:25
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My 3600 is 'idling' around 45-60c according to the temperature my motherboard is reporting for it and the sensor in my AIO says 33c, it very rarely went over 65c while i was playing BFV for 2.5 hours yesterday. What is everyone's 3600 boosting to in threaded games? I was only at 40% total load but some threads were hitting near 90% usage on and off when I was playing, but I was pretty much locked at just over 4Ghz and 1.35 - .36v. Seems like it has room to do lots more? With another .5v and the 15-20 degrees of thermal headroom it's got surely it can push 4.2ghz during that sort of workload? Hopefully it's just bios poo poo and not because the chips just arent capable. Hard to tell if it's normal because the only people who've done youtube videos with their clock speed on display in BFV are playing single player. uhhhhahhhhohahhh fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Aug 3, 2019 |
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Aug 3, 2019 01:12
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Fixed my cold boot issue with 3700x / Asus x470-i when running any kind of decent ram speed. This system owns now.
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Aug 3, 2019 01:55
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Fixed my cold boot issue with 3700x / Asus x470-i when running any kind of decent ram speed. what fixed it
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Aug 3, 2019 02:10
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uhhhhahhhhohahhh posted:My 3600 is 'idling' around 45-60c according to the temperature my motherboard is reporting for it and the sensor in my AIO says 33c, it very rarely went over 65c while i was playing BFV for 2.5 hours yesterday. Mine is about the same, but I am using the wraith stealth cooler. About 3950-4050 boost with 1.35-1.36v. It seems like the thermal throttling is very aggressive around 65-70C and falls off from there, my CPU idles around 38C and will peak out at around 78C at full load. I am using Ryzen Master to get this info. Seems like everything else is iffy. Edit: In BFV specifically the max temp is 65C Burno fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Aug 3, 2019 |
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Aug 3, 2019 03:25
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Balliver Shagnasty posted:Sounds like what my 2700X was doing when I had it clocked at 4.25GHz on all cores. I fixed that by letting XFR/PBO do its thing instead. For what it's worth, I have a 1700 in my headless Linux PC that I use for desktop virtualisation. It was my first Ryzen system and the temptation to switch from Intel to a 16-thread beast when the 1700's were going for £150 was just sooo appealing, especially since this machine is running a few different virtual machines, all the time. When I first built the machine (using the ASRock B450 Pro4, which was also a great price at the time), every time I overclocked it, the thing just ran at 4GHz permanently. I overclocked it a bit hastily without paying particular attention until after about two days. I woke up early, got a drink and sat down to put the TV on. Because it was about 5am I could hear a fan going at full-tilt that sounded like the Wraith Spire cooler. Sure enough, I logged in and checked and the drat thing was sat at 4GHz. It had been like that for about 2 days because I'd just quickly overclocked, got 4GHz and thought: "That's sweet as gently caress, I don't need any more than that!", for running a few VM's (2x Windows and 2x Linux desktops for access over my LAN. I thought "That's gonna cost me a lot in electricity where I've designated that PC to be running 24/7. I'm also not comfortable with anything running flat-out for no good reason and I also wondered what sort of damage it could to to the fan on the Wraith Spire over the long term". TLDR: Anyway, I found a guide for ASRock B450's which basically said to only adjust P-state 0 to your desired boost speed and leave the rest alone. I think there was a little bit more to than that and I wish I could remember which guide it was to post it here. I got it working following the guide which said to change only two or three things and now I've had it sitting at IDLE=1,550MHz and boosting up to 3,700MHz for quite a while. I was also able to undervolt the CPU at the same time by about 100mV to save even more power and it's super-smooth and stable for what I'm using it for. I find this to be an ideal range (I'd like to get idle down a touch more, but I don't want to mess it up while I have a good thing going). I've been tempted and considered upgrading to a 2700 now that the prices have come down, but for what I'm using it for I'm not sure if I could justify it. None of my VM's are there to be running bleeding-edge computation. They are there because I need a separate PC administration of a local society that I'm a member of and the others serve a particular purpose for lab-work such as learning Active Directory and using Linux VM's for security testing and various lab-work. Would it be a waste of money flipping the 1700 on eBay and puttting a 2700 in? My workloads don't really require any more power, I have 32GB RAM and I have no performance issues with the 1700 whatsoever. It's just the temptation of having a newer, shinier thing. Would I actually see any difference? Here are my current thread speeds: code:apropos man fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Aug 3, 2019 |
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Aug 3, 2019 03:43
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apropos man posted:For what it's worth, I have a 1700 in my headless Linux PC that I use for desktop virtualisation. It was my first Ryzen system and the temptation to switch from Intel to a 16-thread beast when the 1700's were going for £150 was just sooo appealing, especially since this machine is running a few different virtual machines, all the time. 1700->2700 does not seem like a very worthwhile upgrade to me personally, once you factor in the costs of selling your old processor (my rule of thumb is 20% loss from selling any given piece of hardware, either from ebay fees + shipping, or having to undercut ebay on craigslist/hardwareswap). Frankly you might consider just turning off overclocking and just letting the power management on the 1700 work - are you really dying for that last 10% or whatever on a VM server? You could consider going to a 3600 instead - the 3600 will be almost as fast as a 1700 (even OC'd) in MT while also being a big chunk faster in single-threaded and also having better power management/better idle power/etc. Or even a 3700X, to make the upgrade worthwhile. (but, that value proposition was offered by the 8700K years ago lol) Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Aug 3, 2019 |
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Aug 3, 2019 04:40
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SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:what fixed it If the speed and timings are set in the seperate 'AMD overclocking' section instead it works. I used ryzen master to do that. Lol no, it still fails if it loses power. I'm getting gigabyte x570 instead. GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Sep 7, 2019 |
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Aug 3, 2019 05:48
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Paul MaudDib posted:1700->2700 does not seem like a very worthwhile upgrade to me personally, once you factor in the costs of selling your old processor (my rule of thumb is 20% loss from selling any given piece of hardware, either from ebay fees + shipping, or having to undercut ebay on craigslist/hardwareswap). Frankly you might consider just turning off overclocking and just letting the power management on the 1700 work - are you really dying for that last 10% or whatever on a VM server? It's funny you should mention that (and I agree, that it's more a case of wanting something whist not needing it). I just posted in the Mini-ITX thread that I have a 2600X in my gaming machine and I have 3600X ready to pick up, right this moment at the local Post Office. The Post Office opens in a couple of hours. I was going to sell the 2600X on ebay to cover the cost of the 3600X but now I'm thinking I may put my 2600X into my virtualisation rig and sell the 1700. I will lose 2 threads in my virtualisation rig but it would then have a Zen+ processor in it. Looking at the used prices on eBay, they are selling 1700's for about the same price as I would get from my 2600X. Are the improvements on Zen+ pretty notable? I'm very. very tempted to sell the 1700 so that I have a Zen+ core in the virtualisation machine and a Zen2 Core in the gaming PC. Why didn't I think of this before? Should I do that instead? Is the IPC on Zen+ a decent leap forwards? I think you've convinced me, unless there's any inherent draawbacks to losing 1-CPU/2-threads it seems like a good idea. As you can see from the system load I posted on my clocks: most of those 18 threads aren't doing much anway.
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Aug 3, 2019 06:31
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The IPC gain from Zen to Zen+ is only 3%, most of the performance gain is from higher clocks. The IPC and overall performance gain going from Zen+ to Zen 2 is much greater than the jump from Zen to Zen+ which was basically just a Zen refresh with some slight improvements to cache latency and clocks.
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Aug 3, 2019 06:44
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apropos man posted:Should I do that instead? Is the IPC on Zen+ a decent leap forwards? I think you've convinced me, unless there's any inherent draawbacks to losing 1-CPU/2-threads it seems like a good idea. As you can see from the system load I posted on my clocks: most of those 18 threads aren't doing much anway. You're losing out on 2 cores/4 threads by making the switch. The 2600x will have to be 33% faster in speed to match the 1700, and the typical difference between zen and zen+ is ~5-10%. For a light VM host, you probably won't notice a difference between sticking with the 1700, upgrading to a 2700, or swapping out with the 2600x. (I'd stick with the 1700)
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Aug 3, 2019 06:45
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Stickman posted:Motherboard/RAM prices could change the calculus outside the US, but it’s definitely the best place to start! You might also want to check used computer prices is there’s a local eBay/craigslist equivalent. An older i5/i7 and any discrete GPU better than a 750 Ti will blow away a 2200g.
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Aug 3, 2019 10:18
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I slept on it for a couple of hours and you are right: stick with the 1700 in the virtualisation rig. It's running like clockwork and it's probably just my own vanity that's telling me to upgrade the Zen to Zen+. The 1700 has been ticking over nicely for weeks and I will leave it alone. Thanks for talking me out of acting impulsively.  Now to go and pick up my 3600X for the gaminig rig! ;-)
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Aug 3, 2019 10:25
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Paul MaudDib posted:(but, that value proposition was offered by the 8700K years ago lol) *At double the price and 1.5x power draw
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Aug 3, 2019 10:40
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well he never said it was a good value proposition
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Aug 3, 2019 16:43
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New BIOS's with the latest AGESA (1.0.0.3 ABB) seem to be popping up now for some mobo's. Most seem to say it helps with memory overclocking some, gives better XMP compatability, and seems to fix the Destiny2 issues.
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Aug 3, 2019 18:25
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When are the B550 boards and the 3700 non-X going to become available? I ask because I'm not going to able to build a new system for a little while yet so should I just wait for the cheaper B550 boards and 3700 non-X? It's looking like I won't be able to build my new system until sometime around Xmas at the earliest.
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Aug 5, 2019 05:52
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