|
I stalled for the first time today with like 8 people behind me. The lane next to me was closed off so I just shame walked out of the way. Outside embarrassing moments, the other reason I’m glad I wear a full face-hiding helmet is because I nailed a beetle with the thing at about 50 today and wow it woke me up.
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 23:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 22:14 |
|
|
Rolo posted:I stalled for the first time today with like 8 people behind me. The lane next to me was closed off so I just shame walked out of the way. Beetles are ugly cars anyway
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 23:37
|
|
|
By the time I get my license upgraded and bike safetied/insured mid August I will have forgotten everything about how it feels to ride a bike. Two days of rider training two weeks ago -- between day one and day two I had completely forgotten how to ride. Can't imagine what it'll be like a month after the fact 
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 23:38
|
|
|
the only time i stall my bike usually nowadays is when i put it in first when the side stand is still down. i guess that's not really a stall
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 23:41
|
|
|
Rolo posted:I stalled for the first time today with like 8 people behind me. The lane next to me was closed off so I just shame walked out of the way. If you stall and get flustered, you're often going to keep on stalling. What helped when I stalled at first was taking the time to pause for a second, not stress, and think about what you're doing. The people behind you are going to be waiting either way, but if you keep on stalling they'll be waiting longer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 23:53
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:By the time I get my license upgraded and bike safetied/insured mid August I will have forgotten everything about how it feels to ride a bike. Two days of rider training two weeks ago -- between day one and day two I had completely forgotten how to ride. Can't imagine what it'll be like a month after the fact it's okay, it's just like riding a bike
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2019 23:55
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:If you stall and get flustered, you're often going to keep on stalling. What helped when I stalled at first was taking the time to pause for a second, not stress, and think about what you're doing. The people behind you are going to be waiting either way, but if you keep on stalling they'll be waiting longer. Yeah good point. I just laughed, walked it 5 feet and I was out of the way. It was a wide road with a coned-off lane on the right so it was very easy to get somewhere semi protected in just a couple seconds. If it happens again in a less lucky spot I’ll be sure to just take my time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 00:21
|
|
|
My biggest worry about stalling is being in a left turn lane against oncoming traffic, tbh.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 02:50
|
|
|
Whenever I would stall on my XT350 (kickstart only) I would have to always walk it off to the side, because I'm not tall enough to kickstart it without standing on the pegs, sidestand down.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 15:11
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:My biggest worry about stalling is being in a left turn lane against oncoming traffic, tbh. I figure you're usually going to stall before you get moving, so you're not super likely to stall right in front of oncoming cars. But you don't have to cut it close anyway, just wait for a bigger gap or the light to turn red.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2019 17:23
|
|
|
I still stall once in a blue moon after ~50k miles of riding. Usually it happens on one of the bikes I ride less often. I have never stalled in motion because none of those is a Duke 690 (shots fired). I wouldn't worry about that. What can happen is running out of gas. It's not fun  . My MV went from 70 to <40mph pretty quickly on the highway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 06:46
|
|
|
Newbie engine question. My 321cc R3 doesn’t redline until 14,000 rpm, which is completely bonkers compared to anything I’ve driven. Is it normal and healthy to ride the thing up to 10k and the like? I imagine keeping it in the power band at times is a safety consideration but I have no idea what “high” is for daily riding. This is not counting any break-in limitations, which I’m still currently stuck under.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 19:01
|
|
|
Rolo posted:Newbie engine question. It is normal and healthy to ride it up to 14k.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 19:46
|
|
|
Yup, you'll hurt it more lugging around at low revs all the time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 20:07
|
|
|
Rolo posted:Is it normal and healthy to ride the thing up to 10k and the like? I imagine keeping it in the power band at times is a safety consideration but I have no idea what “high” is for daily riding. Most engines are happiest where they make maximum horsepower. Things like air compressors and lawnmowers sit right at that point, then shut down when the work is finished. Looking at a power curve for it, it looks like the R3 is happiest in between 10 and 11k. So, you should be able to keep it there for a while as the engine does its work. It's not a car-sized engine; the piston stroke is much, much shorter than that of pistons in a car. As a result, the speed that the piston reaches is much lower at any RPM that would match a car's. That means that the engine can definitely handle it, even though it as a whole is making more revolutions. This is why small engines can rev high; that's the same point that the piston speed starts to approach a danger zone where everything is liable to fly apart or run into each other, just adjusted for a much shorter stroke.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 20:08
|
|
|
builds character posted:It is normal and healthy to ride it up to 14k. Man that rules. Slide Hammer posted:Most engines are happiest where they make maximum horsepower. Things like air compressors and lawnmowers sit right at that point, then shut down when the work is finished. Makes a lot of sense. I’m excited to get out of the break in period so I can see what it’ll do.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 21:39
|
|
|
The redline is the redline. Anything up to that level is totally fine for the engine and won't cause damage. I make it a point to hit the redline once in every ride just to make sure that the bike remembers what it's like.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 22:00
|
|
|
carbon deposits
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 22:03
|
|
|
captainOrbital posted:carbon deposits Italian tune ups are a 100% real thing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 22:08
|
|
|
Engine question two, please forgive this crappy screen grab of a pdf, but this is my break in page: What’s the general consensus of prolonged in this sense? Can I blast it up and down the tach in town as long as I’m not cruising with it pegged over 7k on the highway? Should I just avoid going above 7 at all as much as possible?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 00:44
|
|
|
drat it, beaten by slavvy on Italian tune upspokie posted:I still stall once in a blue moon after ~50k miles of riding. Usually it happens on one of the bikes I ride less often. I have never stalled in motion because none of those is a Duke 690 (shots fired). I wouldn't worry about that. What can happen is running out of gas. It's not fun I don't stall (but I only have one bike), but I still accidentally click into neutral sometimes and every time it's still surprising. Usually happens if I'm being bad and wearing something dumb like skate shoes instead of my boots.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 00:49
|
|
|
Rolo posted:Engine question two, please forgive this crappy screen grab of a pdf, but this is my break in page: Has your bike done more than 1600km? If so, you can now ride normally aka aim for the redline.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 01:55
|
|
|
Rolo posted:Engine question two, please forgive this crappy screen grab of a pdf, but this is my break in page: Yes it means don't sit there at 7000rpm cruising on the highway. Additionally, during break in I tend to go easier on the gas. Sagebrush posted:The redline is the redline. Anything up to that level is totally fine for the engine and won't cause damage. Yes but to expand on his question, you probably don't ride around at redline all day. Usually you don't need to or even want to, near redline you usually feel the engine wants you to shift. How much a bike keeps building power and how well it can deal with being kept near redline depends on the bike. I've had bikes where it's just pointless to ride near redline. My old Buell would pull harder and harder up to redline, however that engine wouldn't like being kept there all day (its rev limiter even was time dependent with hysteresis built in). On my 701 I don't mind keeping it near redline.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 06:55
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Has your bike done more than 1600km? If so, you can now ride normally aka aim for the redline. Yeah I get that part but should I be exercising the full range without simply sitting above 7k for long highway periods or avoiding the higher range altogether? I feel like it’s the former, wanting me to actually use the thing but to be conscious about getting a new unseated ring/cylinder too hot by just sitting above 7 for minutes at a time. The concern is that I don’t want to break the bike in poorly by only running it 1-5k rpm for a thousand miles if it needs varying use of the full range. E: thoughts on this guy and his break in video? Specifically about 5m in: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=u74jYkItdD8 Rolo fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Aug 2, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 15:20
|
|
|
Now, what's a Dutch tuneup that's the really important question.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 19:10
|
|
|
Rolo posted:Yeah I get that part but should I be exercising the full range without simply sitting above 7k for long highway periods or avoiding the higher range altogether? I feel like it’s the former, wanting me to actually use the thing but to be conscious about getting a new unseated ring/cylinder too hot by just sitting above 7 for minutes at a time. Right I see. The internet is full of opinions about running in and most of them are wrong, I'm not gonna watch that video cause is almost certainly wrong. What I tell people with rebuilt engines is to avoid more than 75% throttle, avoid using more than 75% of the available revs, avoid sitting at the same rpm for extended periods. Which is pretty much in line with the pic you posted. So don't sit there at a steady speed, just be constantly accelerating or decelerating, definitely don't go over 7k. But most of this is academic as modern engines are so easy and quick to run in, it's almost certainly already as run in as it's ever gonna get and you can't hurt it unless you go full retard and start pinging off the limiter every five minutes. Stop worrying, change the oil at 1000km and just ride the bike. It isn't a moto gp special made of carefully crafted unobtanium, it's a faired commuter designed to Homer Simpson down a cliff and keep taking you to the shops. Just. Ride. The. Bike.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 20:10
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Right I see. The internet is full of opinions about running in and most of them are wrong, I'm not gonna watch that video cause is almost certainly wrong. Ok cool, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 20:20
|
|
|
Woo, took the MSF course and got the endorsement on my license a few weeks back. Looking for a bike now, even though I'll probably end up with a used Ninja 250, as there are plenty in my area I have an awful urge to try out a new Kawasaki Z400. Buying something new at around 2-4 times the price would be pretty dumb, but I am kinda dumb.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 00:29
|
|
|
When we had a Z125 I would pin the throttle from driveway to destination, and it was fine. Lately I've had some sharp upper back pain, Google led me to #4 on this and it checks out: https://www.bmf.co.uk/news/show/7-tips-to-reduce-motorcycle-pain Anyone have experience or advice beyond what's listed? Alpha Phoenix fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Aug 3, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 01:16
|
|
|
Pine Cone Jones posted:Woo, took the MSF course and got the endorsement on my license a few weeks back. Looking for a bike now, even though I'll probably end up with a used Ninja 250, as there are plenty in my area I have an awful urge to try out a new Kawasaki Z400. Buying something new at around 2-4 times the price would be pretty dumb, but I am kinda dumb. Don't do it. Save the money for your second bike! Get a nice used bike. You'll love it anyway, and most people end up upgrading within a year or two anyway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 06:44
|
|
|
Alpha Phoenix posted:Lately I've had some sharp upper back pain, Google led me to #4 on this and it checks out: https://www.bmf.co.uk/news/show/7-tips-to-reduce-motorcycle-pain Do light exercise to strengthen your core. Pilates, Yoga, free weights etc.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 07:21
|
|
|
Horse Clocks posted:Do light exercise to strengthen your core. Pilates, Yoga, free weights etc. I was afraid of this from the start... I'm not swole enough to ride motorcycles 
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 07:36
|
|
|
ride super nakeds, you'l get a thicc neck after the first 100 mi ride
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 08:08
|
|
|
pokie posted:Don't do it. Save the money for your second bike! Get a nice used bike. You'll love it anyway, and most people end up upgrading within a year or two anyway. Yeah, that's probably the best idea. Don't have to be sad if/when I drop it that way.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 14:07
|
|
|
Pine Cone Jones posted:Yeah, that's probably the best idea. Don't have to be sad if/when I drop it that way. More importantly the resale value on used starter bikes holds up well, so it is almost like borrowing the bike for free .
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 16:39
|
|
|
pokie posted:More importantly the resale value on used starter bikes holds up well, so it is almost like borrowing the bike for free Keep hearing this, but haven't found it to be the case. Bought a ninja 300 last summer, this summer they are going for 30% less easy. Kawa and yahama are making killer deals on their new bikes that are crushing the used resale values.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 18:28
|
|
|
I think it depends on the area. Here in SoCal there are multiple ninja 300s and the like for around 2k-3k. The best price I've seen on a new z400 or cb300 or something like that is just under 4k, and that probably doesn't include dealer fees, etc. It's still a good question- new bike with abs/tech for a little bit more than an old bike. Grab some frame sliders and dropping it might not be so terrible. I'm waiting til fall to purchase my first motorcycle, but I keep wrestling with that equation, especially since I don't really have a desire for anything more than one of the smaller nakeds right now. After riding for a while I might change my mind.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 20:32
|
|
|
I'm up in New Hampshire, there are older Ninja 250's for between 1.5-2.5k and 300's for around 3k. The only reason I'm considering the Z400 is that I feel it might last me longer than the Ninja 250 and might be better suited to longer rides at higher speeds along the highway if I was going to go up to northern and western Maine. I'm too short for adventure bikes, unless they were lowered, unfortunately. The Ninja 250 would be cheaper and probably a wiser choice at the start, but new and shiny is...well new and shiny, unless I drop it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 21:45
|
|
|
Pine Cone Jones posted:I'm up in New Hampshire, there are older Ninja 250's for between 1.5-2.5k and 300's for around 3k. The only reason I'm considering the Z400 is that I feel it might last me longer than the Ninja 250 and might be better suited to longer rides at higher speeds along the highway if I was going to go up to northern and western Maine. I'm too short for adventure bikes, unless they were lowered, unfortunately. The Ninja 250 would be cheaper and probably a wiser choice at the start, but new and shiny is...well new and shiny, unless I drop it. This is one of those things I remember grappling with when I was looking for a first bike. My choice was between getting a 250 single or I2, vs the far more expensive and fragile, but much faster, 250 I4 bikes. The difference between 25hp and 40hp seemed huge and of vital importance. After six months' riding I realised it makes no difference whatsoever because they're both pitifully slow compared to a big bike, which you realise about 30 seconds into riding a big bike. The extra 10-15hp only matters if you're directly racing the other kind of bike and none of the other stuff, like slipper clutches and big brakes and chassis improvements, has any relevance to a learner. ABS is the only plus to a new bike that has any meaning, literally every other reason you can conjure up to avoid getting a used ex250 is just the marketing working on you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 22:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 22:14 |
|
|
RVT posted:Keep hearing this, but haven't found it to be the case. Bought a ninja 300 last summer, this summer they are going for 30% less easy. Kawa and yahama are making killer deals on their new bikes that are crushing the used resale values. My new Yamaha had a huge incentive going on. I got it out the door, all taxes/fees and insurance for well under the MSRP on the bike alone. Only problem is that I am learning on a really shiny pretty thing I don’t want to drop but oh well that’s life.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 22:24
|
|