|
rear end posted:Chrysler does a lot of moronic poo poo Understatement of the year.
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 15:11
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 20:46 |
|
|
I've got a busted grease fitting. Its not threaded, its a pop in/press in type. Its busted flush or a bit below the level of the part its attached to. Any ideas how to get it out? I've tried ramming a screw in to it and pulling it out, no luck. Also got a torch tip cleaner and bent a little hook in the end of it. stuck it behind and tried pulling it out. Also no luck. Suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 15:18
|
|
|
Sounds like careful drill time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 15:24
|
|
|
Able to drill it out and tap it for a screw-in zerk?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 16:27
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Able to drill it out and tap it for a screw-in zerk? Thats likely what I'll have to do. I just drilled the remains of it out. Time to find a new fitting and the corresponding tap...
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 17:16
|
|
|
So as somebody who is likely gonna fight a rust monster - 1. Do people like POR15? 2. How hard is basic welding? 3. Are there any hard and fast rules as to when to give it up? Motor mount rust?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 17:31
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:So as somebody who is likely gonna fight a rust monster - POR15 is great and a powerful tool and I like it a lot, but like most things prep goes a long way to making it work even better.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 18:09
|
|
|
Needle scalier for the win! (for frame/chassis stuff)
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 18:40
|
|
|
Yes, and I'll toss on the usual disclaimer, don't have it exposed to the sun/UV rays.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 19:03
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:
For automotive welding I assume you have or plan to get a MIG welder. They are very easy to get passable results with, generally. Flux core is much trickier than using shielding gas. You can get away with co2 instead of something argon based (much cheaper) for basic stuff. If doing visible bodywork, warping from heat is the biggest challenge. Also, grinding and paint will make you the welder you ain't.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 19:30
|
|
|
I am trying to change the front and rear differential oil on a 2010 suzuki king quad. The oem item https://www.amazon.ca/Suzuki-Performance-Brake-Quart-990A0-01000/dp/B00MHZVUXC is unavailable. Google searching has narrowed my alternatives to https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-tdh-fluid-5l-0280215p.html and https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-synthetic-extreme-pressure-gear-oil-75w90-946-ml-0280263p.html#srp. One is a 10w30 and the other is a 75W90. My gut says there's no way they're nearly identical and a search that results in "either of these" must be wrong. Is a hypoid gear the same as a wet brake?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2019 21:01
|
|
|
Looks like https://www.amazon.ca/Suzuki-ECSTAR-Quart-Brake-990A0-01E70-01Q/dp/B077G9QYQ7 has replaced it? e: weird, it shows in stock on the .com side, but unavailable on .ca. e2: here's what you're looking for, dunno how bad shipping will be though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-OEM-Differential-Gear-Wet-Brake-Oil-SP-1H-32-oz-Bottle-990A0-01000-/191662655351 - googling Suzuki SP-1H may yield better results than the part number? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Aug 2, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 04:09
|
|
|
Has anyone tried chines LED headlights bulbs? Banggood now has a set of well reviewed ones for like 8 bucks so I'm considering giving them a shot. As long as they don't burn the car down, right... E: whatever, ordered, I like to live dangerously mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Aug 2, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 10:29
|
|
|
Are there any fillers/bog/putty that can handle the high temperatures that can be used for filling "dents" in brake calipers before painting them?
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 11:12 on Aug 2, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 11:05
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Are there any fillers/bog/putty that can handle the high temperatures that can be used for filling "dents" in brake calipers before painting them? Maybe JB Weld extreme heat.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 12:48
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Maybe JB Weld extreme heat. Thanks. Alas it's not available here. I'm going to try some metal bonding putty that's supposed to be able to handle "high" temperatures as the marks need minimal filling (hammer marks). Hopefully it'll ever get hot enough to be a problem.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 16:51
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Thanks. Alas it's not available here. I'm going to try some metal bonding putty that's supposed to be able to handle "high" temperatures as the marks need minimal filling (hammer marks). Hopefully it'll ever get hot enough to be a problem. Well it will be a crapshoot. Needs to be clean, area needs to be scored a tad for whatever to bond to. And after that you have the whole contraction/expansion differences going on. Is what it is I'm afraid but wish you the best of luck.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 17:02
|
|
|
Does motor oil have a shelf life? I have an unopened 5 quart jug of full synthetic that I bought for an old car but never got around to using before I sold it. This was like 6 months ago. Was wondering if it would be alright to use now?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 19:42
|
|
|
Kibbles n Shits posted:Does motor oil have a shelf life? I have an unopened 5 quart jug of full synthetic that I bought for an old car but never got around to using before I sold it. This was like 6 months ago. Was wondering if it would be alright to use now? it's fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 20:03
|
|
|
Yep, unopened will last quite a long a long time. edit: Reminds me I bought a several pints of synthetic 75w-140 to replace rear diff fluid from walmart. Had it all in a bag, tossed it in the garage along with the lsd additive. Well fast forward several years, a move later, a replacement axle, and the diff starts leaking. So search the garage and found the walmart bag and the original receipt which to my surprise was still a little readable. I think it was around ten years old at the time I used it based on the date. 
Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Aug 2, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 20:15
|
|
|
Thanks, I kinda figured it would be safe, I just had some concerns about moisture ingress over time. The seal is unbroken though so I'll just use it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 20:33
|
|
|
Water will boil out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 20:39
|
|
|
Yeah 6 months is nothing, I've used 4-5 year old bottles a few times without problems. It doesn't last forever though, I found 2 quarts of unopened 15w50 mobil 1 synthetic hiding in my truck that I believe was over 15 years old. It had turned red with age and seemed to have separated, I didn't use that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2019 23:02
|
|
|
Hi guys, a friend of mine's early 00s Dodge ram got jacked and that loving piece of poo poo took it for a joy ride. It got located and it's gettin' fixed. Once it gets fixed and rolling, I want to know what's next in terms of future security. I feel like this is a stupid question because I'm seriously unfamiliar with this and any question to me seems valid to ask. Third party alarm system? Some 50-75 dollar GPS tracking unit in case this poo poo happens again? loving Onstar? A Dashcam front like a russian, but one in the back for whomever breaks into the back window? Any help, with or without ridicule is appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 06:58
|
|
|
STR, totalnewbie - an update! Good news: seems like a loose O2 sensor connection was the culprit. CEL now off. Bad news: oil seems to have gritty crap or something in it? It wasn't like that before. It's not shiny metal, looks like black sand almost. Not many grains but it's in there. Oil still browny-translucent. The P1349 code it was throwing is apparently the VVT solenoid more often than not, so I am wondering if that is somehow related. No idea when it or the filter mesh behind it was last (ever?) changed. Also no idea why that'd have anything to do with the O2 sensor fixing it. As an aside, I am looking at '90s diesel light vans. Even the one I looked at with regular oil and filter changes every 5-10,000 km has black oil, soot black opaque oil. I am starting to suspect that's normal for diesels. Confirm/deny?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 08:26
|
|
|
simplefish posted:
Diesels immediately get black oil in like the first 10 minutes of running after an oil change.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 09:51
|
|
|
Fargin Icehole posted:Hi guys, a friend of mine's early 00s Dodge ram got jacked and that loving piece of poo poo took it for a joy ride. Those double edge Chrysler keys of the era are easily defeated by a screwdriver and vice grips. Not real secure. An alarm capable of texting his phone and a tracking device would be ideal but expensive. A hidden switch that shuts off the fuel pump is cheap and should be effective if he remembers to use it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 13:00
|
|
|
My brother just got a '67 Ford F100 pick-em-up truck with an I6, just like our grandfather used to have. It was originally a three-on-the-tree, now has a "Mustang transmission" 4-on-the-floor. He was told it was a 300ci via a stroker kit on the stock 240 (he said he measured the stoke with a pencil through a sparkplug hole somehow), and told me the model of trans, but I forget. Also has been upgraded to (tiny) front disc brakes (presumably Pinto/Mustang II), though they don't work all that well. Is there an easy way to tell if the engine is original/what size it is/was? Google says Ford didn't put the VIN on the engine block like everybody else did, and if there was a tag on the coil bolt, it's probably lost (I'll look for it when he gets back to our parents' house, right now he's at a friend's place with a lift bleeding the brakes and such to make it ... slightly less terrifying.) If he lets me wrench on it (I've offered my help, but he's one of those guys that never asks for help, y'know) I might make a thread about it. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Aug 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 00:02
|
|
Bad Angus! Bad!
|
My little sister is looking at a Hyundai Sonata 2019 because she can get the lowest trim package one for like 15k from the dealer and it has a warranty which she worries about because of tighter income. I see people complaining about them but then I hear people who also seem to say they are a great value. Any opinions?
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 01:07
|
|
|
Fargin Icehole posted:Hi guys, a friend of mine's early 00s Dodge ram got jacked and that loving piece of poo poo took it for a joy ride. A hidden kill switch is a good start, but won't prevent some shithead from smashing a window or loving up the ignition trying to steal it. This type of lock is uncommon in the US and no one is gonna even bother trying to figure it out, and it's a good visible deterrent. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSLHBN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_bnJrDbWB3M0FS
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 02:28
|
|
|
Is it possible to rekey an ignition? At some point a PO replaced the one in my van with a generic one that came with its own key, so I have to deal with different door/ignition keys and I would like to not do that anymore.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 02:39
|
|
|
Fallorn posted:My little sister is looking at a Hyundai Sonata 2019 because she can get the lowest trim package one for like 15k from the dealer and it has a warranty which she worries about because of tighter income. I see people complaining about them but then I hear people who also seem to say they are a great value. Any opinions? You could do a lot worse than a $15k new Sonata. The 10y/100k powertrain warranty means that at least you won't be on the hook for transmission / cooling system / etc repairs from 60k-100k miles. The trick to making new cars a responsible financial decision is to keep them forever. Buying / selling cars has transaction costs, so make sure she likes it enough to drive it for more than a decade. I'm a bit surprised to hear that they're that cheap, you can't get a Camry or Accord anywhere near that cheap, at least around me. They're better cars than the Sonata, but definitely not 33% better.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 02:47
|
|
|
Javid posted:Is it possible to rekey an ignition? At some point a PO replaced the one in my van with a generic one that came with its own key, so I have to deal with different door/ignition keys and I would like to not do that anymore. With a good locksmith, anything is possible. Without a good locksmith, I think you can buy keyed-alike replacements for all the locks on Amazon.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 04:09
|
|
|
Are speed nuts / u-nuts one time use? I bought a used set of rock bars and I can't get the bolts to thread in them and noticed they're all deformed. Also, if I lost one inside of my rocker panel should I try to get it out?
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 05:05
|
|
|
I picked up some factory Toyota alloy wheels from the junkyard today. They come off a near identical Corolla to mine (2006 vs 2002, both ZZE122). I have a few noob questions. The alloys are in ok condition, a little bit of curb rash here and there. Whats the best way to clean them up? I didn't want to use steel wool. The tyres appear to be near new Bridgestone Ecopia EU100's, which are much nicer that what's on my car at the moment. The tread depth is great on these. A couple of pictures below, as I looking for the date code. I'm guessing it's the sequence "CEH3016" indicating 30th week of 2016.   What's the consensus on junkyard tyres? Can I use them or are they not to be trusted? They are certainly holding air. The wheels were already off the car. I tried to grab the wheelnuts, which were all in the front footwells of the car. However there was an odd mix of two different lengths, and not the correct number - I got about 10 of each length. This seems pretty odd to me as the car is a 4 stud pattern. Surely there should be 16 nuts total? There was another ZZE Corolla next to it so perhaps the ones from that car ended up in here somehow? Can I reuse the nuts off my exisiting steel wheels or should I just go and buy some new wheel nuts? If the tyres are ok to use, can I just put the new wheels on the car or should I go get them fitted and balanced?
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 07:19
|
|
|
slothrop posted:I picked up some factory Toyota alloy wheels from the junkyard today. They come off a near identical Corolla to mine (2006 vs 2002, both ZZE122).
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 07:47
|
|
|
Charles posted:If you're in the U.S. the date code is at the tail end of a string of numbers and letters that start with DOT. It does follow the week / 2 digit year format. There's no DOT marking on these (I’m in Australia) but per Bridgestones website, I'm looking in the right place https://www.bridgestonetyres.com.au/how-to-tell-the-age-of-a-tyre slothrop fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Aug 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 08:09
|
|
|
I went ahead and bought the van, pick it up tomorrow. I thought I saw before that someone in this thread had posted a "will these wheels/tyres fit?" site, but I can't seem to find it. I'm running some rather new tyres on my current vehicle and the stud pattern is the same. The tyres seem quite similar. The only problem is the hole in the middle of the wheel is apparently a different size, which I'm guessing negates the entire other considerations.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 09:38
|
|
|
I have a standard naturally aspirated engine with electronic ignition, and electic fuel pump, etc. (1960's british leyland straight-4 in an MGB GT) Yesterday I was driving and the car stalled out. It wouldn't immediately start, so I popped the hood to see if anything was obviously wrong, and it wasn't. After a few minutes I was able to start it and drove home without a problem. Today however, I was driving again and it stalled out. This time it wouldn't start at all and I had to get it towed back to my house, and it now sits in my garage. I'd really like to fix this issue myself rather than outsourcing it to a mechanic, but I'm not entirely sure the steps I should go through to identify where the problem lies. Since it turns over but doesn't fire I would assume it's either a) no fuel getting to the cylinders, or b) no spark? If my assumption is correct, what's the way to test this methodically please? Many thanks, EDIT: fixed. I pulled off the fuel line to the carbs and set the engine to run, and fuel came out - so that was fine. I pulled the plugs and they seemed fine and was just about to check for a spark when I noticed a lead was hanging off the ignition coil - after that was replaced, all good. Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Aug 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 10:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 20:46 |
|
|
slothrop posted:I picked up some factory Toyota alloy wheels from the junkyard today. They come off a near identical Corolla to mine (2006 vs 2002, both ZZE122). It does look like the alloys use longer lug nuts with a different type of seat, so you'll want to find the rest of them (either from a tyre shop or junkyard). The tyres should be fine to use so long as you don't see any dry rot or tread separation; 4 years is getting up there, but I wouldn't worry until they pass 7 years or start showing significant rot.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2019 13:59
|
|