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BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Krispy Wafer posted:

I’m still really new at this. What am I doing wrong here?



I’ve leveled the bed up, I’ve leveled the bed down. I’ve changed out the nozzle. Nothing’s working. It just clots up in a ball and nothing actually attaches to the print bed.

Clean the bed with IPA. If that doesn't work, get a bed that doesn't suck (PEI sheet)

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Krispy Wafer
Jul 26, 2002

I shouted out "Free the exposed 67"
But they stood on my hair and told me I was fat

Grimey Drawer
Okay. I have a glass bed, I just haven’t installed it yet.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Are you sure the nozzle is close enough? It's hard to see with the blob in the way but it looks like you are still 1/2 mm or so above the bed.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

It does look high. Also print speed should be fairly slow on the first layer. The fake buildtak stuff adheres great when it's new, so it's unlikely it's the surface.

Krispy Wafer
Jul 26, 2002

I shouted out "Free the exposed 67"
But they stood on my hair and told me I was fat

Grimey Drawer
I thought it was leveled right. It was low enough to drag slightly with a sheet of paper under it.

I’ve printed a couple of things but it’s failing to stick every time now.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

erm... actually thieves should be summarily executed
Lower it some more and try to get the first layer looking right



Listerine posted:

With the moarstruder, 1 wall is comparable, ~1.2 mm thick. But I didn't know if there was a structural reason why it would still be good to print at least 2 perimeters?

The innermost perimeter overlaps with the infill, which can give it a bit of waviness that lines up with the internal structure of the part. If you want the smoothest outer surfaces, more perimeters are better.

Structurally there's not going to be a massive difference in strength compared to the same wall thickness done with a smaller nozzle, no.

Dia de Pikachutos
Nov 8, 2012

I've just spent 45 minutes fighting to upload that copy stand thing to Thingiverse (it is here).

Where do the cool kids put their printables these days? gently caress Thingiverse in the gently caress hole.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Thingiverse is still the largest, but still lovely. MMF is still going, too.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


spongepuppy posted:

I've just spent 45 minutes fighting to upload that copy stand thing to Thingiverse (it is here).

Where do the cool kids put their printables these days? gently caress Thingiverse in the gently caress hole.

Prusa has a repository now too, but it's rather sparse.

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints?page=1

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Prusa also wants people to upload raw GCode, which is really dumb and unnecessary.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
Old habits die hard. Don’t want to budget for plexi till my winter gig work is confirmed.

AgentCow007
May 20, 2004
TITLE TEXT
How hot can I run my Ender 3 Pro bed without it demagnetizing? I'm getting a roll of PETG today to make some stuff for in my car, and the Amazon reviews for it say to use 75C.

Dillon2
Apr 3, 2018
Would STA printing drone propellors work or just make me look like a massive tool

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

AgentCow007 posted:

How hot can I run my Ender 3 Pro bed without it demagnetizing? I'm getting a roll of PETG today to make some stuff for in my car, and the Amazon reviews for it say to use 75C.

75 is totally fine. Supposedly above 85 is where things demagnetize, but there are also lots of evidence of them being fine at 100c.

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008

Dillon2 posted:

Would STA printing drone propellors work or just make me look like a massive tool

I think some companies sla print prototypes of new designs, but there's probably some compromises since the final pieces are injected molded pc. If you're prototyping new aerodynamic designs then it's probably a cool way to do it, if not...props are pretty cheap.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

erm... actually thieves should be summarily executed

Dillon2 posted:

Would STA printing drone propellors work or just make me look like a massive tool

It would be the way to go if you were planning to prototype a new propeller design.

SLA resin is nowhere near as durable as regular injection molded ABS or nylon, though, so the first time you crash, all the propellers are going to shatter. Not a good idea if you're planning to try and make your own propellers to save a buck.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


sharkytm posted:

Prusa also wants people to upload raw GCode, which is really dumb and unnecessary.

Their goal is download and print. No slicing, no fuckery. Just click and print. Unfortunately, that only works for Prusa machines.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
Haven't posted in a while. Got an ELEGOO MARS about a month ago, and so far, really digging it.

Downside is yea, resin printing is a bitch and complicated. Upside is you can get some crazy detail on tiny tiny prints.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr

AlexDeGruven posted:

Their goal is download and print. No slicing, no fuckery. Just click and print. Unfortunately, that only works for Prusa machines.
And if you want to use the exact same heights / materials / etc as the original creator, which is a really weird limitation to go with.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr
While I'm thinking about it, is ABS the go-to plastic of choice for 3d printed stuff that will be left in cars during the summer? I've seen a couple of my PLA prints come out fine and a couple warp/shrink like crazy.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

Parts Kit posted:

While I'm thinking about it, is ABS the go-to plastic of choice for 3d printed stuff that will be left in cars during the summer? I've seen a couple of my PLA prints come out fine and a couple warp/shrink like crazy.

It really depends on your climate. If you're in Tucson, PLA is probably not going to cut it. If you're in the Midwest or Pacific Northwest, it will probably do. Either way, I think ABS is the better material for the job.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

EvilBeard posted:

It really depends on your climate. If you're in Tucson, PLA is probably not going to cut it. If you're in the Midwest or Pacific Northwest, it will probably do. Either way, I think ABS is the better material for the job.

I can say from personal experience that PLA is not enough for a black car in an Ohio summer. Both of my PLA-printed car things that see sunlight are warped as gently caress. The one (pedal relocation bracket) that's always shaded is fine.

cephalopods
Aug 11, 2013

some PETG stuff has held up in- and outside my car for several Michigan summers now. it'll reach about 95f outside and hotter in the lot where I park my car for 8 hours, and obv hotter inside the car

I printed a test-fit sunglasses clip in PLA last week and it was deformed within a couple hours

insta
Jan 28, 2009
I had a PLA money-clip soften enough to lose springyness after 3 hours in my pocket.

duffmensch
Feb 20, 2004

Duffman is thrusting in the direction of the problem!
PLA+ in the car didn’t even make it through the spring in Phoenix without massive amounts of warping, let alone when it’s 115+ outside (but you can reshape it pretty easily when you first get in the car). I haven’t tried PETG yet, but ABS is probably the way to go.

stevewm
May 10, 2005
Pure PLA glass transition temp is commonly stated as 140°F (60°C). Given the huge variability in PLA quality, the lack of purity, and additives for color could have an adverse affect on the transition temp.

Wouldn't surprise me if there is some filament out there that will deform at 50C or less..

Edit: It looks like PETG transition temperature is commonly stated as 80C (176F), with ABS being 105C (221F)

stevewm fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Aug 5, 2019

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

PETG definitely handles car-heat. I've got a tray/organizer sitting on the dashboard of my truck at work and it's survived the ridiculous summer we're having in Ohio without a problem.

Fayez Butts
Aug 24, 2006

If you heat treat your pla print it’ll probably last fine in the car

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
At this point I’m not worrying about it and never buying anything except ABS again.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
eSun needs more colors in ABS+.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr
Thanks guys! Guess it's time I got some ABS for myself.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
ABS+ is better in nearly every way. It's my plastic of choice including outdoor stuff and in-car stuff.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr
What exactly is ABS+ anyways?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
It's a blend of 7 herbs and spices.

It's actually a proprietary blend. I don't know if anyone knows the exact composition, but it smells less, warps less, flexes more without layers separating. The only downside that I've run into is that it doesn't vapor polish.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

It smells a *shitload* less. I think I did one print with regular ABS before deciding it was a pain in the rear end, but i'm two spools deep of ABS+ and it's way better. Still sort of wary of using it without an enclosure because degree of smell ≠ degree of danger but still.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Hypnolobster posted:

It smells a *shitload* less. I think I did one print with regular ABS before deciding it was a pain in the rear end, but i'm two spools deep of ABS+ and it's way better. Still sort of wary of using it without an enclosure because degree of smell ≠ degree of danger but still.

An enclosure is still recommended to limit warping. I run an air purifier in the room too... For whatever that's worth.

AlexanderCA
Jul 21, 2010

by Cyrano4747
My first printer, a ender 3 pro, just arrived. But while assembling a small metal clip fell of and I don't know where it came from.


Any idea?

Nvm, found it. Belonged to one of the end switches

AlexanderCA fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Aug 7, 2019

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

AlexanderCA posted:

My first printer, a ender 3 pro, just arrived. But while assembling a small metal clip fell of and I don't know where it came from.


Any idea?

That's the paddle part of one of the endstop switches. The sticky out-y bits hinge on top of the switch housing to push the switch down.

edit: the foreground blurry one here is on the end of the x-axis, and the background one is on the bottom of the z-axis (I assume the pro has them in the same locations).


the y-axis one is in the back here across the center beam from the stepper motor:


Excuse the mess and the intermediate state of my ender 3 upgrades.

Rexxed fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Aug 7, 2019

Twoflower
May 4, 2006

But what is the Internet? Is it a computer with the Internet inside?
I just moved, disassembling my Anet A8 in the process. I've always had mixed feelings about it even after lots of calibration. I've been considering putting together the AM8 upgrade, but at best I can only find the extrusions/hardware for close to $100, and then I have to go through the hassle of setting the printer back together and getting it re-calibrated and working well to print out the parts in petg. Looking at what's on the market now price-wise compared to what I got almost 2 years ago I'm thinking about maybe dropping $300 on one of the newer printer kits that already has a metal frame. Any thoughts? Is putting in the work for the AM8 upgrade worth it at this point?

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Super random, off topic question, but not sure where to ask this

Looking for a competent machine shop near San Francisco

Need to Mill and weld two aluminum tubes

Also need to carefully drill press a fiberglass tube

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