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Ahh that wonderful feeling when the router gets loose and tears up your workpiece 
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Aug 3, 2019 05:20
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Jaded Burnout posted:I think maybe you miss my point, the wood was kilned dried, and then further acclimatised by stacking it as you suggest before I put it up. If I'd sealed it properly before putting it up then it would not have absorbed all the water to make it swell and subsequently crinkle on re-drying. At least that's my understanding of the process. I think I read you hadn't put it up for some reason which is why I went on about stacking it. But it was late and I was heading for bed is my excuse. Still I agree with Kaiser Schnitzel, it's not a battle you're gonna win trying to seal the wood from moisture, it will always find a way in somewhere and if it can't release the moisture again because it's sealed too well, the wood will start rotting in places. I am also surprised that kiln dried wood bowed as much as your pictures are showing (though it doesn't look too bad IMO). I wouldn't use kiln dried wood for cladding on a house, too expensive, but at my work we do use kiln dried pine (lunawood/thermowood) to build saunas and hot tubs and people also build decking from it when they want a fancier alternative to treated wood. It's very stable and we've never had problems with it in extreme moisture environments. The cladding on my house is similar looking to yours, but just nordic pine, sawn, not planed and not kiln dried and it has not bowed since installation in 2013. It's nailed in place good though and painted. I think more nails is all you can do really. This is how the cladding on my house was done, I think they were 4 inch nails used, as you can see they're all put in four corners or more to nail help stop bowing. 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Aug 3, 2019 |
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Aug 3, 2019 07:28
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I think the fact that it's on the side that gets a huge blast of sun in the afternoon is a factor too. The oils I have aren't trying to block moisture per se (the end grain stuff is oil/wax so I guess that's trying harder) but instead talk about reducing swelling and cupping. I do have one UV-blocker but it wasn't in place then. I'll see what happens to it as our moisture levels increase a bit but my suspicion now is that the hardness of the wood leads to a brittle tongue (which I snapped a few of during fitting) and that was not enough to resist the stress of the cupping. If I'm going to nail more I might as well not bother with the fancier milling and just go for board-on-board of a cheaper wood, or something wholly artificial. Especially now I have more woodworking tools and understanding at my disposal.
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Aug 3, 2019 09:15
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I think it would look good painted, the trim white and the other wood some darker color. We treated our deck with oil and pine tar and while it still looks good, it has dried and cupped in places. Fancy wood out doors is a real PITA, a Sisyphean task to keep up with. I say you have to embrace a design that looks good not just new, but also when weathered.
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Aug 3, 2019 09:30
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His Divine Shadow posted:I think it would look good painted, the trim white and the other wood some darker color. I don't like painted wood 
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Aug 3, 2019 09:41
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Jaded Burnout posted:I think the fact that it's on the side that gets a huge blast of sun in the afternoon is a factor too. Sun blast is absolutely a big factor, as is major humidity, but I would never go with any lumber that was milled like that. Shrinkage and swelling can be factored in, it's part of the deal. That's your inescapable issue. The pine that His Divine Shadow used is almost certainly straight across at the end grain, and that's what you need. With bowed grain, it's guaranteed gonna bow every time. Bad on the vendor, I'm sticking with that. I'd talk to my *looks up British terminology* Solicitor about suing for damage with an inferior product. Seriously.
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Aug 3, 2019 16:38
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Mr. Mambold posted:Bad on the vendor, I'm sticking with that. I'd talk to my *looks up British terminology* Solicitor about suing for damage with an inferior product. Seriously. I suspect it won't be worth it. quote:5.1 Spahaus Timber Ltd will endeavour to describe the appearance and quality’s of the wood as accurately as possible but as a natural product each consignment will differ and The Buyer is solely responsible for insuring that the Products are suitable and fit for the purpose. quote:18.1 No warranty is either given or implied on any timber product, as it is a natural product and will react differently depending on usage conditions. Seems to come under "buyer beware".
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Aug 3, 2019 16:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:I suspect it won't be worth it. It's your labor, erm labour, as well as material outlay. Up to you totally. They all have that. Is is specified for exterior home cladding? Because if so, they're bullshitting. One local expert on wood can debunk them in court and say buyer beware doesn't include being an expert, but a well intentioned consumer in this case. edit- you used the material as specified and the results were not nearly satisfactory
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Aug 3, 2019 18:22
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Mr. Mambold posted:Sun blast is absolutely a big factor, as is major humidity, but I would never go with any lumber that was milled like that. Shrinkage and swelling can be factored in, it's part of the deal. That's your inescapable issue. The pine that His Divine Shadow used is almost certainly straight across at the end grain, and that's what you need. With bowed grain, it's guaranteed gonna bow every time. Nah I've looked at several planks and they aren't, they're all kinds, they're just bigger and wider and nailed down better. It's just a "rougher" product, and it kinda needs to be rough or it won't accept paint as well. It's a real PITA to paint exterior planed surfaces. The tongue and grooves aren't meant to hold the wood in place either I would say, it's probably expected that the nails are doing all the work. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Aug 3, 2019 |
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Aug 3, 2019 19:12
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I'm happy to report that all my pieces sold at the work charity auction. I even had a bidding war over one of my wand stands, they all sold for $35 or more. My cherry table only got the one initial bid of $100, but at least it sold.
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Aug 4, 2019 18:25
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The plant stand? I thought it was nice.
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Aug 4, 2019 20:39
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Congrats on the sales! I've never quite dared to try to sell any of my stuff, because I'm not sure I could take the stress of knowing how (little) valued strangers would find it.
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Aug 4, 2019 20:57
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Super Waffle posted:I'm happy to report that all my pieces sold at the work charity auction. I even had a bidding war over one of my wand stands, they all sold for $35 or more. My cherry table only got the one initial bid of $100, but at least it sold. What are wand stands for?
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Aug 4, 2019 21:18
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Wands
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Aug 4, 2019 21:18
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shovelbum posted:What are wand stands for?  Wands. I work at Universal Studios, literally everyone has a Harry Potter wand, most have several
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Aug 4, 2019 23:11
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Re the cladding issue:The supplier posted:Hi [JB],
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Aug 5, 2019 12:03
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finally done, now i just have to get this heavy fucker into the backyard and put the egg in it
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Aug 5, 2019 15:52
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Was at the house of some acquaintences this weekend. All of their wood furniture is handmade, much of it by one of the homeowners. I didn't feel like it'd be cool to just wander through their house heavily photographing everything, but my interest in their handicraft was welcome and so I have a couple photos. I think I liked this sideboard table thing the best: detail:  I thought the face design on these drawers was really nice too, especially the unusual pulls 
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Aug 5, 2019 19:17
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Yea I'm definitely feeling those
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Aug 5, 2019 21:00
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What kind of finish do you suppose that is? Is that just what BLO does, or is it something else?
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Aug 5, 2019 21:12
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Leperflesh posted:Was at the house of some acquaintences this weekend. All of their wood furniture is handmade, much of it by one of the homeowners. I didn't feel like it'd be cool to just wander through their house heavily photographing everything, but my interest in their handicraft was welcome and so I have a couple photos. I think I liked this sideboard table thing the best: That crafty fucker. He glued up a bunch of 3/4 strips alternating an inch in length to make those finger joints, hahahah. So I'm guessing his through mortises are fake too. I like it!
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Aug 5, 2019 23:01
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Huxley posted:What kind of finish do you suppose that is? Is that just what BLO does, or is it something else?
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Aug 5, 2019 23:04
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The sideboard is kind of Greene & Greene-ish in a neat way. Huxley posted:What kind of finish do you suppose that is? Is that just what BLO does, or is it something else?
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Aug 6, 2019 00:41
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Mr. Mambold posted:That crafty fucker. He glued up a bunch of 3/4 strips alternating an inch in length to make those finger joints, hahahah. So I'm guessing his through mortises are fake too. I like it! Yeah I think it's one of his earlier pieces. He has a table in his kitchen that's assembled like a breadboard, but there's a big open crack maybe 1/16 down the middle because he glued everything in instead of letting the long planks float, and they shrank a little after glueup. But then around his house I found other pieces that were really gorgeously done, so he learned over time and made things better. I didn't even notice that this sideboard was made with strips! That's clever though, it's really not noticeable unless I guess you got up close with a flashlight or something, and the overall effect of those corners floating out over space where there's no legs was really nice.
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Aug 6, 2019 01:04
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Mr. Mambold posted:That crafty fucker. He glued up a bunch of 3/4 strips alternating an inch in length to make those finger joints, hahahah. So I'm guessing his through mortises are fake too. I like it! It took me a few good minutes of searching to find that and now I want to steal it because its a drat good idea.
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Aug 6, 2019 01:53
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NPR Journalizard posted:It took me a few good minutes of searching to find that and now I want to steal it because its a drat good idea. yeah- lately ive been designing a couple different laser-cut plywood shallow project enclosures that are built up in slices w the endgrain shown off on the sides; instead of the usual ugly-rear end finger joints for the assembly i'm gonna pin the slices together with metal tubing + entrap square bolts in cavities beneath the tube ends before gluing everything together, for 'knock-down fasteners' to secure the enclosure lid. ANYWAYS because i'm not actually using finger joints as a fastening feature, i could do some neat corner embellishment w faux finger jointed corners that can look good full time instead of the usual ugly little square fingers you use w glue-optional laser-cut boxes *rubs hands giddily*
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Aug 6, 2019 02:28
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Just watched my uncle take a 19" slab (2" thick and 12' long) of walnut off his sawmill and put it on the pile. A few minutes later we heard a creak and it split end to end in a second. I thought he was going to cry.
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Aug 6, 2019 16:14
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Someone told me cedar doesn't warp as much as other woods when drying, can anyone confirm or deny this? Blistex posted:Just watched my uncle take a 19" slab (2" thick and 12' long) of walnut off his sawmill and put it on the pile. A few minutes later we heard a creak and it split end to end in a second. I thought he was going to cry. 
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Aug 6, 2019 16:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:That crafty fucker. He glued up a bunch of 3/4 strips alternating an inch in length to make those finger joints, hahahah. So I'm guessing his through mortises are fake too. I like it! Is that just for the front? I can only kind of see it on the front same not at all on the side. Those drawers/pulls are gorgeous too.
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Aug 6, 2019 16:40
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Blistex posted:Just watched my uncle take a 19" slab (2" thick and 12' long) of walnut off his sawmill and put it on the pile. A few minutes later we heard a creak and it split end to end in a second. I thought he was going to cry. Back in the day, Roosevelt's AAA (or some similar program, idk) encouraged farmers hit by the Dust Bowl to plant walnut trees along their property lines as wind breaks to limit erosion. 80 years later, you think you've got some great furniture lumber, but all that wind stress and twisting the trees have taken in can make the tree near worthless. It's a helluva note. ed cakesmith handyman posted:Is that just for the front? I can only kind of see it on the front same not at all on the side. I think just where those prouded 'finger joints' are. It looks like he resawed wider pieces down and reglued them to keep the grain harmonious Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Aug 6, 2019 |
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Aug 6, 2019 16:40
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Someone told me cedar doesn't warp as much as other woods when drying, can anyone confirm or deny this? Anything should be stickered between every board and put a piece of roof tin on top or something but don’t tarp it or you’ll get mushrooms (ask me how I know this) This is a good link that explains some stuff and might help explain some of the math/science: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/dimensional-shrinkage/
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Aug 6, 2019 16:50
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Mr. Mambold posted:I think just where those prouded 'finger joints' are. It looks like he resawed wider pieces down and reglued them to keep the grain harmonious That makes sense, but sounds more work than cutting the joints. I should put my money where my mouth is.
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Aug 6, 2019 16:59
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Eastern red cedar (which is actually a juniper) dries very quickly and easily and stably. I don’t have any experience drying western red cedar (which isn’t a cedar either-both are actually in the cypress family but the botanists and the woodworkers can’t seem to agree on anything) but the numbers don’t look as favorable as they do for eastern red cedar. The guy with the Hulk av that used to post here was a big fan of Eastern red cedar, built some nice stuff with it, and he may have milled his own, I can't recall. I am a non-fan of western because it's a pest species here and prone to burning like a roman candle during droughts.
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Aug 6, 2019 17:09
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Mr. Mambold posted:The guy with the Hulk av that used to post here was a big fan of Eastern red cedar, built some nice stuff with it, and he may have milled his own, I can't recall. I am a non-fan of western because it's a pest species here and prone to burning like a roman candle during droughts. While we’re at it, Spanish cedar is also not a cedar, but a member of the mahogany family in the genus Cedrela IIRC. The ‘true cedars’ in the botanical sense are mostly old world species like Atlas cedar/cedar of Lebanon. And that’s why we have scientific names. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Aug 6, 2019 |
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Aug 6, 2019 17:32
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Well, I'm definitely not going to attempt non-90-degree angles again anytime soon. Finally finished a monitor stand for our office. Lots and lots of obvious mistakes beyond things only I know about. Some pretty big gaps in the joinery. I had to take a lot of time carefully widening them because none of them fit at all right away. I think it's a combination of not having a particularly good dovetail saw and also simply from trying to cut at an angle. (Oh, and also being a newbie still and not very good at cutting dovetails.) The angle also isn't 100% uniform, so the top doesn't sit totally tight against the legs. I got it fairly close, but I was eyeballing it a lot of the time so things simply were never going to sit perfectly. At a certain point I decided I had just as much of a chance to gently caress things up as helping if I kept messing with it. That all said, I'm incredibly happy with the glue-up (and I had to resaw the walnut, which left me with a couple pieces of 1/4" thick veneer that I'm excited to try something with), and with BLO I think it actually looks pretty nice. I'm going to apply some paste wax for a bit more durability. For being only my second finished piece, I'm overall fairly pleased. If it were something bigger like furniture or more specifically decorate, I wouldn't be happy with dovetail gaps that big. But for what it is, I'm fine with it.     
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Aug 6, 2019 19:49
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That looks great, especially for your second finished piece. Dang, I wasn't even willing to contemplate trying dovetails for way longer than that.
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Aug 6, 2019 21:18
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Thanks! I tend to get pretty over ambitious with this kind of thing. So far I haven’t gotten too discouraged! I’m still waiting for a big enough screw up that I have to start a project over.
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Aug 7, 2019 00:29
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i own zero hand planes but would like to own one (1) general-purpose hand plane, anybody got any reqs for something cheap and flexible i was hoping i could get away with a lee valley razor blade plane http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=56750&cat=1,230,41182 b/c itd let me avoid having to sharpen anything, but some googling suggests it lacks the backbone for anything more than model-building or light work in v soft woods, and i'll def use it for more substantial stuff like planing binding doors back to true
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Aug 7, 2019 00:49
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Ambrose Burnside posted:i own zero hand planes but would like to own one (1) general-purpose hand plane, anybody got any reqs for something cheap and flexible Hows Craigslist in your area? That and estate sales are a great way to score nice vintage planes.
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Aug 7, 2019 01:08
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Ambrose Burnside posted:i own zero hand planes but would like to own one (1) general-purpose hand plane, anybody got any reqs for something cheap and flexible I use a restored Stanley no. 5 plane for just about everything and I'm happy with it. I don't have specific purchasing recommendations, but that's the size I'd go for in your position.
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Aug 7, 2019 01:22
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