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Slash
Apr 7, 2011

Warbird posted:

Good stuff. The seller is taking their sweet time shipping them, but I'm hoping to get them by the end of the week. I've gotten my radio connected to the TH, but I haven't been able to sort out exacrly how to get it to actually do anything yet. I can see the bars moving in BetaFlight so I'm starting to think I need to set up an ignition switch or something. All sorts of fun things to learn!

You need to set up an arm switch in the modes panel. Here's an appropriate JB video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLy28mYiAzU

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Alternative pants
Nov 2, 2009

WILL AMOUNT TO NOTHING IN LIFE.


Slash posted:

You need to set up an arm switch in the modes panel. Here's an appropriate JB video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLy28mYiAzU

All hail Bardwell.

In other news, my TeamBlacksheep Unify vtx finally shipped from china, but it’s been so hot here in Oklahoma that I haven’t been able to fly for fear of burning out other electronics.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

Slash posted:

You need to set up an arm switch in the modes panel. Here's an appropriate JB video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLy28mYiAzU

Thanks for the link! I'll go and play around and see what I can do. Total side note, that little metal dohickey he has over the power switch on that image preview; how do you attach it exactly? I've got one too and it looks like you have to screw it into a cap or something to secure it to the radio? My kit is second hand so it's entirely possible that I'm missing a piece.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

This is finally done:


Just need to finish the compliance paperwork.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

Success! I got things hooked up and working after watching a few more videos. I have noticed that one of my props isn't starting after the initial flight for some reason; I'm hoping the battery charge was too low or the like. I haven't made it an inch off the ground yet so I doubt it was banging into anything.

Back to fretting over batteries. I have two that came with the TH: a 450mah 4.35v that came with the quad and a 600mah 3.7v "extra" battery that was thrown in for the specific model/kit I got on Amazon. So the charger that was bundled has switches on its ports for "0.6A" and "0.2A". I'm interpreting that as "600 mah" and "200 mah" because metric. The 600 is pretty self explanatory, but what's best practices on the 450 though? Run it through the .2 setting a couple times and change? I'm assuming the charger will let me know when these things are charged and/or won't let me pump too much juice into them.

Edit: Found the docs for the charger. Looks like I can just throw 0.6 at whatever so long as I'm only charging 1 or 2. It also appears to have safeguards in place to keep me from burning my house down. A good add. I wish they didn't whine when charging; it's a bit disconcerting.

Warbird fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Aug 13, 2019

timick
Apr 7, 2016


Warbird posted:

I have noticed that one of my props isn't starting after the initial flight for some reason;
This sounds strange. Remove the props and and see if you can get the motors to spin in the Betaflight's motor tab.
Also, please remove the props before you try this.

timick
Apr 7, 2016


I managed to squeeze in the dji camera and airunit into my marmotte frame.
It went from 260g to 370g without battery (I didn't use an HD cam) so it is definitely noticeable.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

ImplicitAssembler posted:

This is finally done:


Just need to finish the compliance paperwork.

schmancy. ya gonna put an HD fpv system on that?

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

timick posted:

I managed to squeeze in the dji camera and airunit into my marmotte frame.
It went from 260g to 370g without battery (I didn't use an HD cam) so it is definitely noticeable.



holy poo poo good job

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

timick posted:

This sounds strange. Remove the props and and see if you can get the motors to spin in the Betaflight's motor tab.
Also, please remove the props before you try this.

You can hear the servo complaining, but nothing is happening. What do you recommend?

Edit: It doesn't see too straighforward. It occasionally spins up just fine or starts after a moment or two. Most of the time it does nothing.

Warbird fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Aug 13, 2019

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

evil_bunnY posted:

schmancy. ya gonna put an HD fpv system on that?

Yeah. it's a HD 10x zoom camera...you know...for spying on girls.
Was going to go with fpvblue, but as that is being delayed (again), I'm going to try the openHD stuff.

My Rhythmic Crotch
Jan 13, 2011

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Yeah. it's a HD 10x zoom camera...you know...for spying on girls.
Was going to go with fpvblue, but as that is being delayed (again), I'm going to try the openHD stuff.

Is that the heli we were calling murderheli a while back? Have any more vids?

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Erhh, not since the one from last year:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56lVKVMexVs

ssb
Feb 16, 2006

WOULD YOU ACCOMPANY ME ON A BRISK WALK? I WOULD LIKE TO SPEAK WITH YOU!!


For various reasons I'm getting a DJI Mavic 2 Pro for my first drone that isn't a small one that you fly around your living room and attack the cats. I did a bunch of reading and read some tutorials and such that seem good, but I figured I'd ask if anyone here had anything they'd consider critical information for this. The drone comes with the fly more kit and the smart controller plus some filters.

It's a really nice drone and I have zero experience so I'm a bit worried I'll do something monumentally stupid.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

I have a Mavic Pro FMB. You're petty much good, it's an all in one solution. The only thing I recall having any sort of issue with was turning the thing on the first time as I don't think it's actually mentioned anywhere. (It's *Press* *Hold* fyi) If you're desperate to get some dodads for it, look into the platinum props for a slightly quieter flight and some silicon propeller holders if you're stowing it with props on. A sun hood wouldn't be the worst idea either, but I'm not sure how that plays with the 2's camera. If you're feeling particularly froggy there's DJI's FPV goggles, but I wouldn't recommend them unless you're doing some really serious photography; the drones don't fly in a manner that really makes them worth a hoot.


TH Motor: What are the odds I could resolve my issues via a firmware upgrade? I'm half considering just returning it to Amazon and ordering another as the most efficient usage of time/effort.

Slash
Apr 7, 2011

Warbird posted:

TH Motor: What are the odds I could resolve my issues via a firmware upgrade? I'm half considering just returning it to Amazon and ordering another as the most efficient usage of time/effort.

Does it spin at all once you throttle up? If not i would first be checking the solder joints/continuity between the motor and the ESCs. If the motor is connected ok then you may have a damaged ESC/FC.

If you attempt to throttle up while the motor is physically obstructed from moving then you can burn out the ESC.

Corky Romanovsky
Oct 1, 2006

Soiled Meat
Could be that issue I had, which I think relates to an ESC timing setting. Might be tunable in betaflight. May be related to out of spec magnets. I'm just a dumb baby with respect to this stuff.

timick
Apr 7, 2016


Warbird, I'm assuming that you're using DSHOT to talk to the ESC. But incase you're not it could be that you need to recalibrate the wonky ESC see https://oscarliang.com/how-to-calibrate-esc/

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

I’m using whatever betaflight defaults to settings wise. I’ll take a look at the link and poke around a bit.

Slash posted:

Does it spin at all once you throttle up? If not i would first be checking the solder joints/continuity between the motor and the ESCs. If the motor is connected ok then you may have a damaged ESC/FC.

If you attempt to throttle up while the motor is physically obstructed from moving then you can burn out the ESC.

It will twitch a bit but that’s about it. About 1 time in 10 it starts up immediately or a second or two after all the others.

My FS Dominator V3 came in yesterday. Naturally it seems I have to go buy another thing to be able to charge the battery on it. What’s the cheapest safe way to do so? I’d really just like to plug something into a wall for a bit and let it sort itself out. Say what you will about DJI, you get pretty much everything you need out of the package.

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

It sounds like you need to RMA it. It should absolutely start the motor every time out of the box... your vendor may require you to contact Emax directly though. Mine only started doing that after quite a few crashes, turtlemode flips, and getting stuck in grass blades preventing the motor from starting.

I'm in the middle of soldering it now. Had to extend the motor wires a bit to make it work... this is a pretty delicate job

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

I mean I got it off of Amazon so I could just go drop it off at Belk and order another. I'll send them a message and see what's what.

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

Sheesh.







E: poo poo I'm real dumb. Those jumpers would have been a lot easier to manage if I had soldered them the the inside of the board. Oh well, it's done and it works

CloFan fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Aug 15, 2019

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN
whats going on there, why did you have to solder those motors at all?? They have plugs. You seem to have lost one, thats understandable, but why redo all 4?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Warbird posted:

My FS Dominator V3 came in yesterday. Naturally it seems I have to go buy another thing to be able to charge the battery on it. What’s the cheapest safe way to do so? I’d really just like to plug something into a wall for a bit and let it sort itself out. Say what you will about DJI, you get pretty much everything you need out of the package.
You only need to make an adapter so you can charge it with a normal lipo charger. So prob a 5.5mm barrel plug and wire/shrinkwrap.

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

It's a pretty common issue on the Tinyhawk where a motor will fail to spin up on Arm. I went ahead and did all of them since I didn't want to do it with one and have to come back a week later and do it to another.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoEhWvaT_2U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8Eeu4KHdrI

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

CloFan posted:

It's a pretty common issue on the Tinyhawk where a motor will fail to spin up on Arm. I went ahead and did all of them since I didn't want to do it with one and have to come back a week later and do it to another.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoEhWvaT_2U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8Eeu4KHdrI

huh, and that issue was chased all the way back to the dumb little connector? I would have gone nuts swapping my motors and assuming a dead ESC board

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

Already sent mine back and have another coming tomorrow. I’ll take a look and see what I can do to it when t gets here.

evil_bunnY posted:

You only need to make an adapter so you can charge it with a normal lipo charger. So prob a 5.5mm barrel plug and wire/shrinkwrap.

I’m starting to notice a trend of “make your own solution” for this hobby. I’m going to have to get an nicer soddering iron aren’t I?

Warbird fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Aug 16, 2019

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

Warbird posted:

Already sent mine back and have another coming tomorrow. I’ll take a look and see what I can do to it when t gets here.


I’m starting to notice a trend of “make your own solution” for this hobby. I’m going to Gabe to get an nicer soddering iron aren’t I?

lmao yeah, especially when it comes to the fiddly little things. i would NEVER buy any plug or connector, you just pull the writhing mass of wires out from your drawer and find a connector that came from something you previously bought. Then swap the pre-crimped wires into the proper sized housing.

For this same reason, owning a 3D printer is a godsend. You think it's for printing gopro mounts and arm bumpers, but it's really for when you want a custom piece of plastic that connects this random banggood purchase to this other unknown component but also mounts to a 30x30 stack and has little ziptie holes you can connect your VTX antennas to. And it's just one piece, and it fits perfectly and you made it yourself and it didn't even exist an hour ago you're the only person on earth with that part

bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Aug 15, 2019

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

bring back old gbs posted:

huh, and that issue was chased all the way back to the dumb little connector? I would have gone nuts swapping my motors and assuming a dead ESC board

Yeah I swapped all four motors and it fixed it for a couple dozen packs, then it started happening with the new motors. I fly exclusively outdoors, so when I crash and try to take off again it's in grass. Well, grass will block the props from spinning and these tiny motors don't have enough torque to power through. My theory is when that happens, the energy has to go somewhere and and it ends up going to heat at the motor-side connector. This loosens the connection and causes the intermittent problem seen in the video. I say it weakens the motor-side connector, because the problem went away after a motor swap and only came back after a lot of crashes.

I haven't seen anyone on the facebook group say the issue came back after soldering, but I could have missed it. Every time someone describes the issue or posts a video like mine, there are a few people whose advise is just 'solder it'

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

Finally got to fly it again today after it being down all week. Works great! Part of my troubleshooting involved flashing the stock config back... Earlier I said I didn't notice a difference between Mockingbird and stock tune. Now I know the stock tune is garbage, or maybe I'm out of practice, but I'm putting MB back on there immediately because it is vastly superior

It's good to be back in the air!

Corky Romanovsky
Oct 1, 2006

Soiled Meat
My Tinyhawk S started doing that motor issue (right rear), and it did spend a lot of time failing at turtle mode in grass longer than 1mm.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

Update: New Tinyhawk showed up today. Got it paired up and set up to my radio/controller in no time or trouble. Powered up with little fuss and everything seems to be good to go.


I loving shattered a prop within 3 seconds of arming the thing when it bumped sideways into the soft case for my radio. I didn't even get it off the ground. This is strictly on me but god damnit.

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer
I've got a VTX that fell into the swamp for a minute or two and now it powers up and works in pit mode but when it fires up to 200mW, the range is like 5ft. I checked the antenna connector and it shows as a dead short across the center output pin and GND, even with no antenna. I've gone over the area with a giant magnifier and don't see any connections bridged or corroded and even checked under the can. I know the easy answer is to just replace it, but i can do SMD replacement so I don't want to drop another $25 if I can get away with swapping a 3 cent part or something. Has anyone ever seen any info on VTX repair?

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

CapnBry posted:

I've got a VTX that fell into the swamp for a minute or two and now it powers up and works in pit mode but when it fires up to 200mW, the range is like 5ft. I checked the antenna connector and it shows as a dead short across the center output pin and GND, even with no antenna. I've gone over the area with a giant magnifier and don't see any connections bridged or corroded and even checked under the can. I know the easy answer is to just replace it, but i can do SMD replacement so I don't want to drop another $25 if I can get away with swapping a 3 cent part or something. Has anyone ever seen any info on VTX repair?

if you can't bring it back to life with some dollar store rubbing alcohol and a thorough scrubbing with a cheapo toothbrush it's probably just toast. The alcohol/toothbrush will just scrub off any hairs/oxidation that may be shorting it out invisibly. If you've got a separate little oven for it you could do a quick reflow, which also attacks it from the "some of your joints have oxidized" route.

Tracing the signal path and actually trying to find the component that's broken would require some sort of schematic I think. Maybe you can try hitting all the capacitors and resistors with a multimeter to see if you find one that has NO continuity at all and also source a replacement component from another board

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer

bring back old gbs posted:

if you can't bring it back to life with some dollar store rubbing alcohol and a thorough scrubbing with a cheapo toothbrush it's probably just toast.
Thanks for the ideas. I did the ISO+toothbrush route and reflowed the antenna connection points, then went through and checked all the diodes and caps for a short and didn't find anything. I'm hesitant to put it in the reflow oven due to the plastic connector which will melt way before any of the ground traces even get close. I think it is toast, although I'm not sure what's wrong with it. Stupid high density high power components! Appreciate the suggestions though, good idea to check the caps and stuff.

EDIT: And just for fun I fired it up on the bench and it seems to work perfectly again, or at least on 200mW I can go all the way outside the house and down the driveway with good signal. It still shows a short across the antenna but maybe the off state for the PA is conducting? Either way, woohoo! I also have noticed that whoever assembled the thing put a thermal pad on the RF chip (check) and a second thermal pad except rotated 90 degrees from where the output amp is.

So one to the upper left of the crosshairs and one on the far left corner where the board is the coolest instead of over where the crosshairs are. I'm guessing that contributed to why the output of this thing was so awful. 25mW=20mW, 500mW=220mW, 800mW=250mW. Guess now I have to get some silicone thermal pad to replace this because I've gotten some bench dirt on the existing squares.

CapnBry fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Aug 20, 2019

Alternative pants
Nov 2, 2009

WILL AMOUNT TO NOTHING IN LIFE.


My Emax Buzz has arrived! Just need to get the vtx configured properly and I'll be joining the flying gopro crowd.

Corky Romanovsky
Oct 1, 2006

Soiled Meat
Caught the bug. Have a BetaFPV HX100 coming, and a Larva X pre-ordered...and my 10 pack of Tinyhawk S batteries still haven't arrived.

Took this thing out for the first time. That brushed motor is pretty anemic.


E:wtf is up with imgur

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

Corky Romanovsky posted:

Caught the bug. Have a BetaFPV HX100 coming, and a Larva X pre-ordered...and my 10 pack of Tinyhawk S batteries still haven't arrived.

Took this thing out for the first time. That brushed motor is pretty anemic.


E:wtf is up with imgur

My friends are all getting into foam wings now, the ZOHD Dart is insane. So god drat fast on a 3s with 5" biblade prop, and apparently it can go up to 4s and we haven't even experimented with triblade props or anything because there just isn't any need to yet.

Zorilla
Mar 23, 2005

GOING APE SPIT

Corky Romanovsky posted:

Caught the bug. Have a BetaFPV HX100 coming, and a Larva X pre-ordered...and my 10 pack of Tinyhawk S batteries still haven't arrived.

Took this thing out for the first time. That brushed motor is pretty anemic.


E:wtf is up with imgur

I got one of these about a month ago. For me, the power was totally adequate for keeping a glider in the air for an indefinite amount of time, but it's just really naturally unstable. The gyro spends most of its time struggling simply to keep the aircraft level in even the smallest breezes, and the flight envelope seems to be so narrow that you're either climbing too fast, or stalling without warning. Turning it is like trying to balance on the head of a pin. Depending on how much rudder you give, either you're hardly turning at all, or you're one-wing stalling all of a sudden and you have to hope that you have enough altitude to pull out of it before something bad happens (I didn't, on multiple occasions). I managed to crack the nose on day 2 of ownership, and then break it entirely off a week later the day after I glued it back together.

Then cell #2 on the included battery died after about four cycles and it's been sitting in my room with nothing to do. I might make a Molex-to-XT30 adapter and try my much nicer BetaFPV 350mAh 2S batteries with it since they fit, but for now, I can't be bothered.

This thing may has well be a 3-channel plane with how little aileron authority it has. I can mash the stick in either direction (yes, while in high rates) but I can't see it banking beyond the way it's constantly fighting the wind. Turning seems to be accomplished primarily by wrestling with the rudder and throttle so that you're neither nosediving nor going too wide and ending up in a treetop at the edge of the park.

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Corky Romanovsky
Oct 1, 2006

Soiled Meat
Mine is very stable. Roll rate is about as bad as you describe; I have yet to do a full roll without bailing into a half loop. It can loop if you pick up speed from a dive, though I was kinda worried with how much the wings flexed.

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