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thatbastardken
Apr 23, 2010

A contract signed by a minor is not binding!

Wacky Delly posted:

That Ryzen doesn't have a GPU built in. You'll need to carry over one or bite the bullet and get one.

the bullet it is.

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Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.

DJ Dizzy posted:

Seeing as 1xfemale -> 2xmale headset adapters are breaking on me all the time, I figured it was a good time to get an external mic. What's a decent budget-friendly one?

Are you looking for just a discord/gaming mic or a streaming/podcast mic?

For the former I'd recommend an Antlion ModMic. ~$50 and they attach to your existing headphones and sound pretty good. For the latter at essentially the same price I liked the Samson Meteor Mic when I had one and I think the Blue Snowball is about the same price and is pretty good as well, but really I'd recommend spending more to bump up to an Audio-Technica AT2020 if that's your use case.

Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Aug 21, 2019

Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine
So I'm at a "pre-build" stage and I haven't built a PC in like 10 or 15 years and the world where AMD is good and I have to learn other names for things makes me :psyduck:.

I'm looking for a 1080/light-1440 card and what I'm generally reading is that at full price (~230) the RX590 isn't better-enough than the 580 (~185) to be worth it. But I'm seeing a few RX590s that look to be normal on Amazon for like 200 or 205.

Is there something significantly different about these 590s to make them 30 bucks cheaper than the other 590s? When the price differential is 15 or 20 bucks rather than 45 is the 590 worth getting?

:ohdear:

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler
Not that I can tell. They have open-design coolers which is what you generally want, and they're respectable brands sold directly by Amazon. Seems like just a good price.

As to how much better they are than the 580, I can't say. I thought they were the same chip basically, but if there's a big difference between revisions or firmware maybe that makes the difference.

Azuren
Jul 15, 2001

Putting together a new rig in the next couple days and I'm wondering how to best set up the fans. Case is a Meshify S2, mobo is an MSI x570-A PRO, case fans will be 5x of the 140mm fractal design x2 gp-14 fans the case comes with (I bought two more, so they'd all match), going to set 3 in the front as intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top rear as exhaust. Wondering how to plug everything in... Motherboard has 4x PWM plugs, case comes with a fan controller, which has 3x PWM plugs and 6x non-PWM.

Are there any advantages to not using the PWM connections? My first thought was plug them all into PWM plugs via a combination of the mobo and the fan controller, and let the mobo do whatever it wants. My second thought was that if they aren't plugged into PWM, and they'd be running full blast all the time, I'd be ok with trading better cooling for a bit more noise, since I've never had a super quiet PC and it wouldn't bug me, as long as that doesn't shorten the lifespan of the fan (I think I read it's starting and stopping that wears them out, rather than just maintaining a speed?). So, I was thinking of just plugging all the case fans into the non-PWM ports on the fan controller, and plugging that fan controller into the mobo... but then my third thought is that if all the mobo connectors are PWM, isn't it going to be PWM no matter what, so it really doesn't matter? :v: Aware I'm totally overthinking this, just looking for some guidance.

Sininu
Jan 8, 2014

Any way to control PWM fans inside Windows? Asus B450 Strix mobo.

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005

Azuren posted:

Putting together a new rig in the next couple days and I'm wondering how to best set up the fans. Case is a Meshify S2, mobo is an MSI x570-A PRO, case fans will be 5x of the 140mm fractal design x2 gp-14 fans the case comes with (I bought two more, so they'd all match), going to set 3 in the front as intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top rear as exhaust. Wondering how to plug everything in... Motherboard has 4x PWM plugs, case comes with a fan controller, which has 3x PWM plugs and 6x non-PWM.
From what I can tell the fans that ship with the case (and the ones you bought as well presumably) aren't PWM to begin with.

Fractal Design have a separate SKU for a PWM version of the same fan which I guess is where the confusion comes from.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Azuren posted:

Putting together a new rig in the next couple days and I'm wondering how to best set up the fans. Case is a Meshify S2, mobo is an MSI x570-A PRO, case fans will be 5x of the 140mm fractal design x2 gp-14 fans the case comes with (I bought two more, so they'd all match), going to set 3 in the front as intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top rear as exhaust. Wondering how to plug everything in... Motherboard has 4x PWM plugs, case comes with a fan controller, which has 3x PWM plugs and 6x non-PWM.

Are there any advantages to not using the PWM connections? My first thought was plug them all into PWM plugs via a combination of the mobo and the fan controller, and let the mobo do whatever it wants. My second thought was that if they aren't plugged into PWM, and they'd be running full blast all the time, I'd be ok with trading better cooling for a bit more noise, since I've never had a super quiet PC and it wouldn't bug me, as long as that doesn't shorten the lifespan of the fan (I think I read it's starting and stopping that wears them out, rather than just maintaining a speed?). So, I was thinking of just plugging all the case fans into the non-PWM ports on the fan controller, and plugging that fan controller into the mobo... but then my third thought is that if all the mobo connectors are PWM, isn't it going to be PWM no matter what, so it really doesn't matter? :v: Aware I'm totally overthinking this, just looking for some guidance.

GP-14 are 3-pin voltage-controlled fans, so a PWM signal doesn't work to control their speed (that's what the fourth pin is for!) If you plug them directly into the motherboard, you'll need to set the header to "DC controlled" or "voltage controlled" in BIOS if you want control over their speed. Apparently the included fan controller doesn't translate the incoming PWM into voltage control for on the 3-pin header, so if you use the controller you'll be stuck at 100% all the time.

If you want control over your fans, the best option is to buy some splitters, connect them directly to the motherboard, and set the headers to "voltage controlled". If you haven't ordered them yet, the very best option would be to scrap the GP-14s and just buy some proper PWM fans. If you don't want to go the expensive Noctua/Corsair route, Artic F14s are a good value and the "PST" variant lets you daisy-chain them without a splitter!

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Sininu posted:

Any way to control PWM fans inside Windows? Asus B450 Strix mobo.

Asus' AI Suite 3 software should let you do that. You could also try Speedfan, but it hasn't been updated in a while so doesn't work with most new motherboards. Argus Monitor does usually work, but requires purchasing yearly (or 3-year) license.

Sininu
Jan 8, 2014

Stickman posted:

Asus' AI Suite 3 software should let you do that. You could also try Speedfan, but it hasn't been updated in a while so doesn't work with most new motherboards. Argus Monitor does usually work, but requires purchasing yearly (or 3-year) license.

I tired Speedfan and it doesn't let me do anything. The AI suite seemed to be abandoned like 7 years ago, no? The Google results when I first looked for a solution were all from like 2011 or so.

Edit: Found the current AI suite, gonna try it out asap.

Sininu fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Aug 21, 2019

Azuren
Jul 15, 2001

Appreciate the quick responses! Yup, just opened up the box on one of the fans and they are indeed 3-pin. So if I plug all 5 into the controller, and the controller into the mobo, and they're all running at 100%, I'd be fine with that. I just wanted them all to be consistent, so they aren't spinning up and spinning down separately.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Azuren posted:

Appreciate the quick responses! Yup, just opened up the box on one of the fans and they are indeed 3-pin. So if I plug all 5 into the controller, and the controller into the mobo, and they're all running at 100%, I'd be fine with that. I just wanted them all to be consistent, so they aren't spinning up and spinning down separately.

That should be fine, though I guarantee it's an overkill for whatever you've put in the case! If it gets to loud and you don't want to bother with splitters, dropping down to two intakes and one exhaust would probably be plenty, especially if you're running at 100%.

Fantastisk
May 19, 2011

After a long night of hooking, trade didn't like the session, so he had gutted me and set me on fire, but, you know, I didn't die. I had crystallized, and now I'm a glamazon bitch ready for the runway.
I got some advice here earlier, but wanted to wait a bit before ordering my parts - and now I think I'm ready! I'd just like one final check before I commit:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB DUAL OC Video Card ($289.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks P300 ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($83.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $861.70

The only difference is that the video card I'm looking at is a 1660, not a 1660 Ti. Does it look okay? Also note that I live in Norway, so good deals on better versions of parts may not apply.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Fantastisk posted:

I got some advice here earlier, but wanted to wait a bit before ordering my parts - and now I think I'm ready! I'd just like one final check before I commit:

...

The only difference is that the video card I'm looking at is a 1660, not a 1660 Ti. Does it look okay? Also note that I live in Norway, so good deals on better versions of parts may not apply.

Looks good! If the MSi B450-A Pro is available for cheaper than the Tomahawk, you might want to consider it. The only differences are a slightly less efficient VRM heatsink (so it's only recommended for up to a 3900x, while a Tomahawk could marginally run a 3950x) and 2xType A USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports instead of the Tomahawk's 1xType A and 1xType C. In the US it's usually significantly cheaper, but not sure about Norway.

There are a few 1660 and 1660 Ti models without zero-fan idle so if that matters to you, you'll want to double-check. The Asus Dual has zero-RPM idle, so if you're getting the equivalent 1660 you're set!

E: The sx8200 Pro is an excellent NVMe drive, but it's also not a significant gaming performance boost over other NVMe drives. If you can find other NVMe drives for cheaper (i.e. Phison E12-based drives like the Sabrent Rocket) then it might not be worth the premium and you'd be better off using the difference to upgrade to a 1660 Ti or 5700.

Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Aug 21, 2019

Fantastisk
May 19, 2011

After a long night of hooking, trade didn't like the session, so he had gutted me and set me on fire, but, you know, I didn't die. I had crystallized, and now I'm a glamazon bitch ready for the runway.

Stickman posted:

Looks good! If the MSi B450-A Pro is available for cheaper than the Tomahawk, you might want to consider it. The only differences are a slightly less efficient VRM heatsink (so it's only recommended for up to a 3900x, while a Tomahawk could marginally run a 3950x) and 2xType A USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports instead of the Tomahawk's 1xType A and 1xType C. In the US it's usually significantly cheaper, but not sure about Norway.

There are a few 1660 and 1660 Ti models without zero-fan idle so if that matters to you, you'll want to double-check. The Asus Dual has zero-RPM idle, so if you're getting the equivalent 1660 you're set!

E: The sx8200 Pro is an excellent NVMe drive, but it's also not a significant gaming performance boost over other NVMe drives. If you can find other NVMe drives for cheaper (i.e. Phison E12-based drives like the Sabrent Rocket) then it might not be worth the premium and you'd be better off using the difference to upgrade to a 1660 Ti or 5700.

The B450-A Pro isn't all that much cheaper than the Tomahawk for the Max version, and even though it seems to be simple enough to update the BIOS on a regular version (as far as I can see, that's the only difference, right?), I feel more comfortable getting something that will work out of the box. Also, it's not in stock yet!

It's the 1660 version of the Asus Dual, yes!

The Intel 660p is a bit cheaper than the sx8200 Pro, is that a good choice?

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

Schadenboner posted:

So I'm at a "pre-build" stage and I haven't built a PC in like 10 or 15 years and the world where AMD is good and I have to learn other names for things makes me :psyduck:.

I'm looking for a 1080/light-1440 card and what I'm generally reading is that at full price (~230) the RX590 isn't better-enough than the 580 (~185) to be worth it. But I'm seeing a few RX590s that look to be normal on Amazon for like 200 or 205.

Is there something significantly different about these 590s to make them 30 bucks cheaper than the other 590s? When the price differential is 15 or 20 bucks rather than 45 is the 590 worth getting?

:ohdear:

A 590 is just a 580 juiced way past any reasonable point. I'd just get a 1660 or 1660ti.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Fantastisk posted:

The B450-A Pro isn't all that much cheaper than the Tomahawk for the Max version, and even though it seems to be simple enough to update the BIOS on a regular version (as far as I can see, that's the only difference, right?), I feel more comfortable getting something that will work out of the box. Also, it's not in stock yet!

It's the 1660 version of the Asus Dual, yes!

The Intel 660p is a bit cheaper than the sx8200 Pro, is that a good choice?

Yep, the larger BIOS chip and pre-flashed 3rd gen support are the only difference between the Max and regular boards.

If it's not very much cheaper I wouldn't choose a 660p (or a Crucial P1) over a sx8200 pro. They use a different type of flash memory (QLC) that prioritizes economy over performance and endurance. While it's still faster than SATA SSDs, it's quite a bit slower than other NVMe drives and offers poorer write endurance. It's still a solid choice if it saves a decent amount of money, but if they're close the sx8200 pro is a much better value.

100% Dundee
Oct 11, 2004

Fantastisk posted:

The Intel 660p is a bit cheaper than the sx8200 Pro, is that a good choice?

The 660p is great for a large storage nvme drive, but it's not the best/fastest for a primary drive. Someone more technical in here can definitely explain it better I'm sure, so just wait for thst post.

In my system I'm using a 2TB 660p drive for my temporary media storage before it goes onto my NAS and it works awesome for that. But I'm using one of the Inland Premium 1TB drives as my primary/system drive.

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust

The 660p is super fast but it will start slowing down when the drive gets full. One of the tradeoffs for cheap NVME drives.

GutBomb
Jun 15, 2005

Dude?
I’m using a 2TB 660p as my only drive in my system and have about 350gb free and I’m sure a benchmarking app would say it was slow in synthetics but in practice loading things is faster than what it replaced (2 500gb 850 evo SATA in RAID 0)

Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine
So my original plan was to get an XBOX-HUEG PC and do home lab stuff on it but I discovered my lovely masters program gives me a lot more free Azure than is usual and I've decided to build my lab in that (which will itself be a learning opportunity). So I'm just looking for a basic gaming "rig" (as the kids say these days).

What country are you in? :gop:land.
What are you using the system for? 1080 or light-1440 Gaming, school, connecting to Azure (but that's just web browsing really, not very intensive), shitposting.
What's your budget? I have a W10 license but other than that assume I have nothing (keyboard, mouse, monitor) other than a set of crappy earbuds and a set of crappy speakers. Budget is as close to 780 as possible.

I'm :ohdear: af about online merchants so I've kept this to Amazon-only. I also have a morbid fear of power supplies other than Corsair?

I'm going to get a non-potato 1440 monitor eventually, and I can chuck SATA SSDs in as necessary, the 500GB NVMe is really just to get started. Probably throw a bunch of Noctua fans in the case if temperatures become a problem.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($99.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($70.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN500 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 590 8 GB GAMING 8G Video Card ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H17 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($44.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VS229H-P 21.5" 1920x1080 Monitor ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech MK550 Wireless Ergonomic Keyboard With Laser Mouse ($46.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $776.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-21 21:01 EDT-0400

E: The 1660 is a good card but it's 30 bucks more than what I can get a 590 for and doesn't seem to be much different performance-wise.

Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Aug 22, 2019

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

Yeah, but the 590 uses 1/4 to 1/3 more power to get there, and the 1660 has been available on sale recently, it just takes a bit of hunting.

I'd get a 580 over a 590 any day of the week, they're a good bit cheaper and should perform the same once OC'd accordingly as it's the same chip. On that note, at your budget is just get a 570, put the savings to a 2600 or 3600 and buy a stronger GPU when you've got the cash. A 570 8gb will do 1080p60 with maybe some fiddling, and can be had for $120 worst case with whatever promotional game(s) they're offering today. Not sure how it will perform at 1440 as people only do ultra tests, but overall 1440 on an $800 isn't very realistic without making other compromises that are harder to upgrade. And the fact that the recommended 1440p144 monitor is $400 by itself.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Schadenboner posted:

So my original plan was to get an XBOX-HUEG PC and do home lab stuff on it but I discovered my lovely masters program gives me a lot more free Azure than is usual and I've decided to build my lab in that (which will itself be a learning opportunity). So I'm just looking for a basic gaming "rig" (as the kids say these days).

What country are you in? :gop:land.
What are you using the system for? 1080 or light-1440 Gaming, school, connecting to Azure (but that's just web browsing really, not very intensive), shitposting.
What's your budget? I have a W10 license but other than that assume I have nothing (keyboard, mouse, monitor) other than a set of crappy earbuds and a set of crappy speakers. Budget is as close to 780 as possible.

I'm :ohdear: af about online merchants so I've kept this to Amazon-only. I also have a morbid fear of power supplies other than Corsair?

I'm going to get a non-potato 1440 monitor eventually, and I can chuck SATA SSDs in as necessary, the 500GB NVMe is really just to get started. Probably throw a bunch of Noctua fans in the case if temperatures become a problem.

PCPartPicker Part List

E: The 1660 is a good card but it's 30 bucks more than what I can get a 590 for and doesn't seem to be much different performance-wise.

You'd absolutely be better served by at least spending an extra $15 to upgrade to a Ryzen 1600 - the "G" processors are relatively weak, especially the 4 core/4 thread "X200G" cpus. They're pretty much only worthwhile if you want to use their integrated gpus in a very light budget gaming build.

You can save $5 by upgrading the SN500 to a Sabrent Rocket. The SN500 is a very-budget NVMe drive, while the Rocket is proper 3.0 x4. Honestly, this is another place to stretch your budget if you can; 500GB fills up quickly and the 1TB Intel 660p is just $95 (or the better 1TB Rocket is $110).

E: If you have a Microcenter nearby, you can save ~$60-80 between the CPU, motherboard, and SSD.

Stickman fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Aug 22, 2019

Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine

ItBreathes posted:

Yeah, but the 590 uses 1/4 to 1/3 more power to get there, and the 1660 has been available on sale recently, it just takes a bit of hunting.

I'd get a 580 over a 590 any day of the week, they're a good bit cheaper and should perform the same once OC'd accordingly as it's the same chip. On that note, at your budget is just get a 570, put the savings to a 2600 or 3600 and buy a stronger GPU when you've got the cash. A 570 8gb will do 1080p60 with maybe some fiddling, and can be had for $120 worst case with whatever promotional game(s) they're offering today. Not sure how it will perform at 1440 as people only do ultra tests, but overall 1440 on an $800 isn't very realistic without making other compromises that are harder to upgrade. And the fact that the recommended 1440p144 monitor is $400 by itself.

It looks like switching to a 580 gets me the 2600 for like 790 which I'd say is a win. Thanks!

E: Dropping to a 570 and swapping the 500GB SN500 for the 1TB 660P makes it 801. So that's probably about what I'm looking at. That's probably enough to play Inquisitor and Mechanicus and FO4 at 1080, right?

E2: Closest Microcenter to MKE is Chicago :(.

E3: A cheaper (well-reviewed, 75 Hz, still IPS) screen and using PC Part Picker's parametric search thingy knocked off a few bucks to 771 (unless you're passionate about who made the RAM you're slotting into which low-end motherboard, I'm not): https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KyJvLJ

Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Aug 22, 2019

hambeet
Sep 13, 2002

Found my old Core 2 Duo E8400 in the bottom of a box, still working a few weeks later.

I was probably only imagining the lights dimming when I turned it on. I'm not looking forward to the power bill next month.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



hambeet posted:

Found my old Core 2 Duo E8400 in the bottom of a box, still working a few weeks later.

I was probably only imagining the lights dimming when I turned it on. I'm not looking forward to the power bill next month.


I mean it was only a 65w TDP processor, it doesn't use more power than any modern processor except perhaps something in a laptop, but what power it does use doesn't get nearly the level of performance of modern processors.

Mister Kingdom
Dec 14, 2005

And the tears that fall
On the city wall
Will fade away
With the rays of morning light
I have several USB-powered external drives and need a powered USB hub. I bought an Amazon basics one that has 10 ports, but the drives don't always stay on and I have to unplug and plug in the drives.

Any suggestions? I would like another 10-port one, but could use a couple with fewer ports.

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler

orange juche posted:

I mean it was only a 65w TDP processor, it doesn't use more power than any modern processor except perhaps something in a laptop, but what power it does use doesn't get nearly the level of performance of modern processors.

Yeah - the main thing you'll notice with older processors' power consumption is that they idle a lot higher. Load power is as high as it's ever been, as suggested by the popularity of liquid coolers these days.

kcer
May 28, 2004

Today is good weather
for an airstrike.
in the context of GPUs, is it a bit dumb to shoehorn a x570 for pci 4.0 into a build for someone who isn't a bleeding edge enthusiast? am i right in thinking there's only a couple cards than can currently saturate pci 3.0 at x8?

i think x470 is a bit more sensible, anything else to consider?

poisonpill
Nov 8, 2009

The only way to get huge fast is to insult a passing witch and hope she curses you with Beast-strength.


MaSI Tomahawk is a decent cheap option if you don’t need bells and whistles

Beverly Cleavage
Jun 22, 2004

I am a pretty pretty princess, watch me do my pretty princess dance....

kcer posted:

in the context of GPUs, is it a bit dumb to shoehorn a x570 for pci 4.0 into a build for someone who isn't a bleeding edge enthusiast? am i right in thinking there's only a couple cards than can currently saturate pci 3.0 at x8?

i think x470 is a bit more sensible, anything else to consider?

There's something to be said about ease of flashing new bios or out of the box preparedness for zen2. Specifically in the itx world, no boards have cpu-less flash on any x470/b450 boards, and not all the manufacturers have released boards with a bios revision capable of first time boot for zen2 as well. In my case, I'll jump to x570 just for ease of install since I'm migrating from intel to amd.

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler
I think you have to go up to like a 2080Ti to see any difference between 3.0 x16 and x8, so PCIe 4.0 would just be future proofing even if the current generation cards supported it.

Not having to mess around with reflashing is nice, but buying a 2200G just to reflash and then returning it worked for me and I'm pretty sure the $200 I paid for an X470 Taichi wouldn't get me nearly as good of a VRM on X570. (e: Of course, having an exceptional VRM is also kind of just future proofing since almost any board should be able to power a 3700X at stock and I think all of the X570 boards have acceptable VRMs anyway.)

The remaining item I can think of is memory compatibility/updated QVL and that's nice too, but I just bought some random 3600MHz stuff at commodity prices and it runs fine at 3200MHz. I've heard if you do just a little more work and make sure you get Micron E-die then you're almost guaranteed good results, so it's not clear if this one really matters.

Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Aug 22, 2019

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

Schadenboner posted:

Dropping to a 570 and swapping the 500GB SN500 for the 1TB 660P makes it 801. So that's probably about what I'm looking at. That's probably enough to play Inquisitor and Mechanicus and FO4 at 1080, right?

Having trouble finding benchmarks for those games. A 570 is a 580 with 10% of it's GPU cores cut out and performs accordingly. It's not a max everything card, but in terms of frames-per-dollar it stands alone, and should hit 60fps at the appropriate settings.

kcer
May 28, 2004

Today is good weather
for an airstrike.

thanks, appreciate it!

Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine

ItBreathes posted:

Having trouble finding benchmarks for those games. A 570 is a 580 with 10% of it's GPU cores cut out and performs accordingly. It's not a max everything card, but in terms of frames-per-dollar it stands alone, and should hit 60fps at the appropriate settings.

I'm not worried, based on looking at some benchmarking websites (which I'd characterize as "realistic fiction" but generally at least in conversation with reality) I should be able to drive a 1080 at at least 50 and possibly more (the screen I found goes up to 75 so maybe I can use those extra FPSes after all).

Thank you to everyone for helping me find fat to cut, I think the build plan is in a lot better shape now than it was before!

Azuren
Jul 15, 2001

Putting together a build with a Noctua NH-D15. On the Y-splitter for the fan cables, it looks like one of the ends going to one fan is a 4-pin, and one of the ends going to the other fan is missing a pin? Has pins 1, 2, and 4. Is this normal, and if so, which should go to which fan, the center one and the front one?

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
I’m not sacrificing much by getting a discounted 2XXX series Ryzen compared to a 3XXX right?

Newegg has a deal on the 7 2700X and I think I might pick it up (buy a part a paycheck kind of deal). I was gonna get the 5 3600 but I think the 7 2700X is better, especially since you can OC it, right?

I figure getting a better CPU is important if I’m pairing it with a 2080.

Macichne Leainig fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Aug 23, 2019

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz 8-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock - X470 Master SLI/AC ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Patriot - Viper 4 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3400 Memory
Case: Corsair - 450D ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970
Storage Drive: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB
Storage Drive: Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Boot drive: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Main monitor: BenQ GW2765HT 27-Inch 2560x1440 IPS Monitor

I'm in the market for a new video card, this is mostly used for productivity and gaming (all sorts of gaming, including AAA titles). Considering dropping way too much money on a widescreen monitor in the near future, definitely want something that will support that. I was looking at some of the higher-end Radeon cards; I don't care about noise much, but I do care about heat output (I don't want to warm up my room too much). I posted this a month or two ago, and was told it may be a good idea to wait for the Radeon partner cards hitting this month; how are those looking? I'm willing to drop $700-$800 on this, more if there's a good value out of it.

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

Protocol7 posted:

I’m not sacrificing much by getting a discounted 2XXX series Ryzen compared to a 3XXX right?

Newegg has a deal on the 7 2700X and I think I might pick it up (buy a part a paycheck kind of deal). I was gonna get the 5 3600 but I think the 7 2700X is better, especially since you can OC it, right?

I figure getting a better CPU is important if I’m pairing it with a 2080.

Short answer is it depends. The 2700 has 2 more cores than the 3600, if you can use them it's a good pickup. Otoh, the cores in the 3600 are 10-15% more powerful. In terms of raw fps the 3600 is a better choice, but if you're going to be GPU limited before that the 2700 has other things to offer (better multitasking, minimum frame times, rendering of that's your bag). Gamers Nexus charts.

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Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG

ItBreathes posted:

Short answer is it depends. The 2700 has 2 more cores than the 3600, if you can use them it's a good pickup. Otoh, the cores in the 3600 are 10-15% more powerful. In terms of raw fps the 3600 is a better choice, but if you're going to be GPU limited before that the 2700 has other things to offer (better multitasking, minimum frame times, rendering of that's your bag). Gamers Nexus charts.

I do a lot of machine learning work but I think the dedicated tensor cores on the 2080 are more helpful for that honestly. So I’ll stick with the 5 3600 then, I suppose. Thanks for the insight!

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