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The good thing about booblights is you can usually replace them with ceiling fans pretty easily.
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Aug 16, 2019 15:14
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Nevets posted:The good thing about booblights is you can usually replace them with ceiling fans pretty easily. Except for the fact that in most cases, the cheapo ceiling box installed isn't rated for a fan. DIYers that don't know what they're doing will have a loud, wobbly fan that is just waiting to fall and hurt someone. Doing it right involves cutting the old one out and using an old-work expandable one (if no above access), or getting into the attic to put in a new-work one anchored to the joists.
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Aug 16, 2019 16:03
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Fallom posted:I have literally never seen a house where all the non-hallway overhead lights were wired with dimmers. My house has one. That's because the regulations that requires dimmers went into effect around 2017. Sort of like the entire california green code law. So it only affects future permitted construction.
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Aug 16, 2019 18:26
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Hello, I unscrewed a plate labeled "TV" and instead of coaxial, I get this funny thin wire with two wires on each end. Up in my attic someone split the wire like a T. I'm assuming this is what they did prior to coaxial? I'm hoping to pull/feed coaxial to the attic through this. It's still my plan, but I'm just curious right now if the existing wire would be at all useful for anything. https://imgur.com/VfyRMvJ 
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Aug 18, 2019 02:07
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Gimpalimpa posted:Hello, Looks like 300-ohm twin lead, so good for an antenna but not much else as far as I know.
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Aug 18, 2019 02:27
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Gimpalimpa posted:Hello, That’s 300ohm “twin lead” or “ladder line.” It’s a perfectly valid way to feed an antenna, but has fallen out of favor because it’s affected by proximity to metal or power. You may have noticed these things in junk drawers over the years. They’re 300/75ohm balanced/unbalanced adapters. Twinlead being balanced, coax being unbalanced. 
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Aug 18, 2019 02:30
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Oh sweet, thanks. I'll give it a go with the existing line and if it doesn't work try feed the coax.
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Aug 18, 2019 02:49
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Gimpalimpa posted:Oh sweet, thanks. I'll give it a go with the existing line and if it doesn't work try feed the coax. Uhhh...give what a go? If you've got TV or internet service that's using coax, I don't think those adapters will allow you to convert to twin-lead then back to coax and maintain the signal. Unless you're just running coax for, like, a roof or exterior mounted antenna...then it might work? You can try to use this wire to pull the coax, and hope it's not staples down anywhere, but as is I don't think it's going to be of any use to you.
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Aug 19, 2019 15:27
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My permit was finaled today for the 2nd floor. The inspector told use "to move the standing (not-nailed) cabinet covering the electrical panel because panels need 3 feet of clearance space", but beyond that there were no other issues. There's still some construction work going on (flooring replacement, which does not require a permit), but afterwards I may as well show the before and after pics. My first floor plans that we hired an architect to assist us on are headed to a structural engineer today.
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Aug 20, 2019 21:37
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My old brick house is pinned, or whatever you want to call it so it doesn't open up like a banana peel. Over the last year maybe I've noticed the rods have started to sag. The end of one of them now has the nut a few mm away from the plate. I've never even considered this happening. I guess maybe the house has shifted back? I haven't got a drat clue what to do, if anything. Ideas?
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Aug 24, 2019 02:39
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I'm not by any means a brisk guy but if I was in your position I'd be hiring a structural engineer.
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Aug 24, 2019 02:51
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Haha, outstanding typo.
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Aug 24, 2019 03:43
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WithoutTheFezOn posted:Haha, outstanding typo. Leaving it.
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Aug 24, 2019 04:14
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Instead of collapsing out your house is collapsing inwards. Call a structural engineer.
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Aug 24, 2019 09:23
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The thing about that is it can't really collapse inwards. The structure is pretty much a double brick square divided into four rooms with single brick walls. The rooms are pretty small too. On the kitchen / loungeroom wall there's a huge double sided fireplace which IIRC is part of the structure. I think the house may be moving back to where it was pre 1960's renovation. The amount of movement we see is unfortunately seen all around town. The ground is ancient clay. I just had another really good look and have an idea what might be happening. It's not worth worrying about unless it continues because for the most part it is shifting back. The other bit of shifting happened when the hot water system burst recently and wasn't noticed for a few days. It only really moved the bathroom and one of the sleepouts. I've checked under the house with an endoscope. No noticeable moisture issues. drat useful tool, especially for about $5.
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Aug 25, 2019 00:57
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General_Failure posted:The thing about that is it can't really collapse inwards. That must be quite a unique building.
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Aug 25, 2019 01:26
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Motronic posted:That must be quite a unique building. Perhaps "can't" was a bit strong. The whole wall length on each side is maybe 8 or 9 metres, with the internal walls about halfway on each side. So bracing from going inward is pretty good.
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Aug 25, 2019 05:42
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Got a quick painting question... We painted some large horizontal stripes in our powder room to give it a bit of jazz. Unfortunately, we didn't know that using painters tape on orange peel walls is not very effective, and we've got some bleeding both up and down. What's the easiest way to fix this, without screwing up the straight line? The lower lines seem like they'd be the easiest, but how do I prevent the top lines from bleeding white down into the blue sections? What it looks like from afar: https://imgur.com/a/58Hvfcd And what it looks like up close: https://imgur.com/a/1cMPczt
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Aug 25, 2019 16:33
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tear that wall down and paint it differently, imo
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Aug 25, 2019 16:36
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Omne posted:Got a quick painting question... I mean it's already hosed: https://www.wayfair.com/decor-pillows/pdp/york-wallcoverings-waverly-27-x-27-surface-stripe-roll-wallpaper-doq2041.html?piid=16871483
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Aug 25, 2019 17:36
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Omne posted:Got a quick painting question... You could take a very fine brush and fix every spot by hand, but that would take forever probably.
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Aug 25, 2019 17:44
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Re-tape and paint the white or make the blue stripes slightly larger. You can caulk the tape to seal it: https://www.scotchblue.com/3M/en_US/scotchblue/tape-textured-surfaces/
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Aug 25, 2019 18:16
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Omne posted:Got a quick painting question...
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Aug 26, 2019 03:04
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Slugworth posted:Retape, putting the tape over your white stripes. Paint the tape line with white paint, so the inevitable bleed through is white. This will seal the tape line. Then you paint your blue line. This is the trick. Also, use a straight-edge when you pull the tape up.
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Aug 27, 2019 02:07
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Has anyone filled a walk in closet with modular organizers like these? Is there any that people have used that they'd recommend? https://www.modularclosets.com/collections/design-your-modular-closet Our house was originally designed to be a 5 bedroom house but then the builder built one and realized the architect was a moron and it resulted in all the bedrooms and closets being too small. So they got rid of one of the bedrooms which in general was a good thing but 4' of the reclaimed length went into the master closet and they really didn't do anything to use the added 32 square feet. So it's an 11.5x8.5' room that just has rods with a shelf above them on the 3 of the walls, basically making it a giant waste of space. It seems like the choices are MDF stuff from Lowes or HD that'll probably end up being 1200-1500, the plywood ones above for 2000-2500, or real wood ones which rapidly get into the $6,000+ neighborhood. I also like the ones above since I won't have to rip out and trim any baseboards, because I am v. lazy.
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Aug 27, 2019 14:22
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I bet if you priced up a whole walk in closet with those you'd find it's a couple of thousand. Could you get a carpenter to quote to fit the space out for you as a comparison? E:a quick look at those modulars and a simple 10' length of units could cost you $4000 unless you want no drawers, that's not cost effective. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Aug 27, 2019 |
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Aug 27, 2019 14:55
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Slugworth posted:Retape, putting the tape over your white stripes. Paint the tape line with white paint, so the inevitable bleed through is white. This will seal the tape line. Then you paint your blue line. OK this is my inexperience, so please forgive me for asking what is probably a dumb question. What you're saying is that I put the painters tape on the white stripes, with the edge closest to the blue stripe at the point where the bleed comes down the farthest. Then, paint the edge of the tape white, which seals the edge of the tape. Then, the area between the blue stripe and the white bleed, blue. Won't this make the stripes different sizes, as some bleed comes down further?
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Aug 27, 2019 15:31
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Omne posted:OK this is my inexperience, so please forgive me for asking what is probably a dumb question. My understanding of their suggestion is retape it exactly to the line you were intending, with the tape wholly in the white section. Paint the edge of the tape where it meets the blue section, but paint it white. Most of the white will go half on the tape and half on the blue section, but some will bleed under the tape, but since it's white bleeding onto white that's OK. Wait for the paint to dry and then paint over exactly where you painted before but blue. Because of the previous white paint bleed, there should be no gaps for the blue to bleed into, and you'll be covering the white overpaint with blue. Wait for it to dry and remove the paint. Assuming all that works, the only evidence would be a couple extra coats near the edges of the stripes, which hopefully would be imperceptible. The best advice I can personally give is to take this as a lesson to test an approach in a small area and only go whole hog once you're satisfied with the results.
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Aug 27, 2019 15:48
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Jaded Burnout posted:My understanding of their suggestion is retape it exactly to the line you were intending, with the tape wholly in the white section. Paint the edge of the tape where it meets the blue section, but paint it white. Most of the white will go half on the tape and half on the blue section, but some will bleed under the tape, but since it's white bleeding onto white that's OK. Wait for the paint to dry and then paint over exactly where you painted before but blue. Because of the previous white paint bleed, there should be no gaps for the blue to bleed into, and you'll be covering the white overpaint with blue. Wait for it to dry and remove the paint. That's what I thought, thanks for clarifying. My issue is by taping over the white sections, I'm covering up the blue bleeds. Wouldn't I need to either paint the blue bleeds white, or extend the blue further into the white? Or, would it actually be easy to paint everything white again and start over, using this technique to truly set the edge and prevent bleeding on all sides? So, tape it all up, paint the edges white to prevent bleed, then paint the stripes blue?
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Aug 27, 2019 16:12
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Omne posted:That's what I thought, thanks for clarifying. My issue is by taping over the white sections, I'm covering up the blue bleeds. Wouldn't I need to either paint the blue bleeds white, or extend the blue further into the white? I see what you're saying. You could do it the other way round and I think it'd work out OK, right? Omne posted:Or, would it actually be easy to paint everything white again and start over, using this technique to truly set the edge and prevent bleeding on all sides? So, tape it all up, paint the edges white to prevent bleed, then paint the stripes blue? I mean, that's definitely an option. Perhaps try a few approaches on a small scale and at worst you can do a reset by repainting the whole thing.
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Aug 27, 2019 16:23
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cakesmith handyman posted:I bet if you priced up a whole walk in closet with those you'd find it's a couple of thousand. I did do that, that’s where I got the $2,000-$2,500 number. quote:Could you get a carpenter to quote to fit the space out for you as a comparison? I could but I’m guessing it’ll be enormously expensive.
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Aug 27, 2019 19:38
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Just design some ikea algot poo poo and stuff that in your closet unless the aesthetic and cheapness are off putting We just did one and it came out p deece especially for $250 all in
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Aug 27, 2019 19:57
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bird with big dick posted:I did do that, that’s where I got the $2,000-$2,500 number. That's because I'm not paying attention, sorry
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Aug 27, 2019 20:07
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I was at $2395 but that’s with only one four drawer unit which rethinking it is probably inadequate, adding another one brings it to about $2895.
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Aug 27, 2019 20:30
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okay so we've been working on our home renovation forever and this past weekend started working on the new access hole for the attic space. here's the hole: current plan is to have a 5-sided box plug filled with insulation that you can just... shove... into the attic to get in. here's the box plug in its current state:   my original plan was to mount this frame to the ceiling around the hole. it's a 22x22" opening, the hole is 24x24", so it has a 1" lip all around. i was going to drive wood screws around the perimeter into the framing above. the plug would then rest on the frame and be flush with the rest of the ceiling  last night several things occurred to me: * why did i screw the drywall to the plywood box base from the front instead of the back? fortunately i have enough drywall scrap to replace this piece and screw it from the back so there's no screw heads to deal with on the visible face * maybe i should build a frame around the interior edge of the base of the hole? like 3/4" strips around the base of the hole and then don't have the drywall sheet go flush to the edges of the plug so that the plug is supported by the 3/4" strips that can be screwed into the framing perpendicular to the load force instead of the trim frame * if i do that, then i could screw the trim frame into these strips from the back and hide their fastening while i'm at it too alternatively, are there any decent hardware options that i could use to allow the plug to drop down out of the hole instead of having to push it up? it passes upwards cleanly but it's pretty heavy. im thinking like either some kinda long pieces of metal that can be rotated from the drywall face to hang it from the attic floor or maybe some kinda latching mechanism on the bottom? I've got 1/8" all around on the face sheet and more like 3/8" clearance from the box sides to the framing. this would create separate issues for the framing but i'm not opposed to coming up with a way for that to be removable with visible hardware - perhaps hinges on one edge and a latch on another so i guess there's a few questions buried in here: * can this trim frame support the plug safely or should I frame in the base of the hole opening for support and let the trim serve as trim * is there any clever hardware bits that i can use so that i can have the plug drop out of the ceiling instead of having to push it up into the attic for access
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Aug 27, 2019 20:47
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I know this isn't the question you asked, but is there a particular reason you didn't go for a premade attic hatch? They're quite cheap.
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Aug 27, 2019 21:01
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Doesn't letting it drop down just create the same problem, but in reverse? As in, you're still having to lift and push on a heavy plug, you're just choosing whether you want to do that to enter the attic or to close it. What you have now is already made and doesn't require further design work, so I'd just stick with that. If you wanted to make pushing the plug easier you could set up a counterweight with some pulleys, probably about as much work as redoing the plug so that it can be pulled down without simply falling out
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Aug 27, 2019 21:04
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Why bother with the box at all? Just put the insulation on the back of a sheet of wood and it will be much lighter and easier to push up and to the side. That's how it is at my house.
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Aug 27, 2019 21:07
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Bloody posted:* why did i screw the drywall to the plywood box base from the front instead of the back? fortunately i have enough drywall scrap to replace this piece and screw it from the back so there's no screw heads to deal with on the visible face Will this actually hold? Seems like most of the work is done by the wide screw head holding the soft drywall against a stud. I don't know if the threads are going to hold it well enough.
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Aug 27, 2019 21:08
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Nevets posted:Will this actually hold? Seems like most of the work is done by the wide screw head holding the soft drywall against a stud. I don't know if the threads are going to hold it well enough. I had that thought as well. Redoing the drywall while trying to screw into it from behind seems like it may result in that whole drywall sheet falling off some day and is a lot more work than just slapping some mud over the screw heads. I can imagine covering the screw heads and painting not taking more than 1-2 hours, redoing the drywall on the other side several hours more than that
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Aug 27, 2019 21:17
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