|
I think yes to both.
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 03:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 22:17 |
|
|
Exchange does occur but I believe it follows the same rules as the rocket steam engine in that it maintains its state. Just good luck in extracting it later!
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 03:50
|
|
|
Koboje posted:When I first started playing I thought diseases was what was going to kill me instantly, but it feels like even if you get Food poisoning and Slimelung all day long, it does not actually do much beyond annoy and irritate and then resolve on its own soon enough. I used to be deathly afraid of mining a single Slimelung infected Slime cell. But replicating and skilling up a dedicated doctor has felt like overkill every time I have done it. Everyone will get to that point eventually, I often just find I left the game running for 10s of cycles in the background and nothing has really changed other than my dupes are sometimes idle. Past a certain point this game is not a survival simulator anymore and more of a creativity/physics exploitation thing. Getting liquid hydrogen for rockets and managing space is much more daunting that making oxygen, and eventually that will be trivial too. The game is more what you make it past that first 100 cycles of not loving up constantly. That being said, it is an extremely good creativity builder when you get to that point. Mazz fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Aug 26, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 04:58
|
|
|
So I made basically Pip Heaven   I didn't think arbor trees gave you more seeds but somehow I have 45 more seeds 
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 05:06
|
|
|
Put together an early refining area, I realize now that turning oil into petroleum doesn't just delete all the heat anymore I need to add some sort of active cooling after refining, most likely a turbine setup, but for now this works well for what it is. I've isolated the circuits in such a way that the batteries are filled to maximum, then cut off from the main curcuit connecting that area. This lets them power up the storage and refining without overloading the line connecting from my main transformer area, but also lets me completely disregard any long heavi-watt runs. I just added the oil refineries to this closed curcit as well, forgot I took them off earlier. Using transformers for this like the top connection is not workable I've found, the transformer blasts the connecting line for a lot more kW than you'd expect. Using two circuit breakers as such does work well though.  For liquid management I'm not doing anything too intricate other than using 2 shutoffs with clock sensors to manage the oil. Most of the time I'm just bypassing the metal refineries since I built up about 40t of Steel and pushing 200C petro to my power room was slowly killing my cooling solutions. Now I just convert a little every day to keep up with my currently low demand. By setting two clocks like this, I can have a regulated flow to both systems at differing fractions. Working well so far.  There's a tiny bit more going on for automation  From the bottom up, I have the reservoirs controlled by a hydro sensor so they never produce more oil than I've set as the base of the area. Air pumps on a pressure sensor and the room was vacuumed clean so only NG in there at all times, no filter needed. Two shutoffs on clock sensors as mentioned. You can see the battery is controlling both curcuit breakers, a simple not gate to the rear one makes it alternate appropriately. Metal refinery is controlled by the smart storage, a NOT gate makes it so the storage enables the refinery until it is full, then disables it. The 3 right side smart storage are doing the same thing to their perspective machinery, the lime one controls the rock granulators, the carbon one the kilns, and the last one is just iron controlling nothing, I didn't want to gently caress up the look  Also another kiln in there making ceramic, same smart storage control. Finally the transformer on top controlled by the 3 batteries feeding all the random crap left in there so I don't overload the curcuit again. And everything is cooled by this demonstrably overworked wheeze hydrogen loop. It's not really cooling anything but with everyone in suits all the time I just need to keep temperatures at a point nothing overheats, and it's doing that well enough. Chilling at like 70-80C in that room, which isn't bad when you add up all the heat being poo poo out there on a regular basis.  Also pretty happy with this sweeper arm placement idea; it feeds both rock granulators and kilns in 1 shot! Kilns don't require dupe input to run so this sweeper fully automates them.  ---- EDIT: Reworked my hatch/puft ranch layout, have to say I'm pretty happy with how this turned out too. Waiting on the squeaky/oxy puff still though.  Mazz fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Aug 26, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 05:16
|
|
|
Koboje posted:If there was a "Colony is now perpetually self sustaining for 100 more cycles without further input" objective, I am pretty sure several of mine would qualify, atleast before I decided to pointlessly mess it up attempting to achieve the actual objectives. The game does not have a Rimworld-esque incident system, it's a lot more about overcoming the passive challenge of the environment. I think the only hostile critters in the game are pokeshell when they're guarding eggs. It feels like the intent was to allow you to see trouble coming and have complete agency to fix it, unlike e.g. Rimworld dropping 50 insects in the middle of your mountain base bedroom area or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 05:31
|
|
|
So ethanol in an aquatuner/turbine loop set to -60, using aluminum radiant liquid pipes, will keep up with liquefying 4kg/s of CO2, and probably more. I was using it because a single insulated liquid pipe moves 10x gas pumps worth, and I'm power positive even with the aquatuner. Certainly space-positive and not trying to run some cool 10-wide pipe setup. Also, if you make the aquatuner chamber 5x2, fill it with 1000kg oil, 1000kg water, 10 obsidian/granite shift plates, then you can both use a gold amalgam tuner and place the insulated tiles directly on top skipping the pesky vacuuming step. It's so easy to set up now and uses solidly early-mid tech. Shearing 2 glossy dreckos will get you the plastic you need for the turbine. This build won't complete with a steel setup, but it is a lot easier to get going, and good for the 400ish-kdtu type setups ... base radiant cooling, vent taming, etc. It just needs a single conductive wire ran out to it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 07:05
|
|
|
So I haven't played this game since it was in early access, now with all the new features and possibilities it looks kinda daunting to get into. Any suggestions for a returning player?
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 08:26
|
|
|
GotDonuts posted:So I haven't played this game since it was in early access, now with all the new features and possibilities it looks kinda daunting to get into. Any suggestions for a returning player? Watch lots of videos on YouTube or just experiment with small goals in mind. I started again on full release after a year of not touching it. I did both of my suggestions.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 08:41
|
|
|
I do have a lot of fun. I have rather diabolical designs for bases to try, experimenting with different starting goals or self imposed challenges is also interesting.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 13:21
|
|
|
Is there a way to put individual objects on quick buttons? I use ladders often enough for exploratory digging that I would like to be able to just press a key instead of having to go through the menu.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 14:04
|
|
|
Cardiovorax posted:Is there a way to put individual objects on quick buttons? I use ladders often enough for exploratory digging that I would like to be able to just press a key instead of having to go through the menu.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 14:06
|
|
|
Arven posted:If the game is too easy you need to try one of the harder asteroid types. Having to deal with heatstroke everywhere outside of the starting biome makes things a little harder. is there math that works out to 2 steam turbines per 3 aquatuners? I'd like to build big chiller units like that to cool some hot water for my base, but don't really know what a good ratio is past 1 aquatuner to 1 turbine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 14:20
|
|
|
Cardiovorax posted:Is there a way to put individual objects on quick buttons? I use ladders often enough for exploratory digging that I would like to be able to just press a key instead of having to go through the menu. You can click something that's already built and hit B to make a copy of it. That said, digging S curves is waaaaay faster than building ladders.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 16:59
|
|
|
Fenn the Fool! posted:You can click something that's already built and hit B to make a copy of it. That said, digging S curves is waaaaay faster than building ladders.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 17:03
|
|
|
piratepilates posted:is there math that works out to 2 steam turbines per 3 aquatuners? I'd like to build big chiller units like that to cool some hot water for my base, but don't really know what a good ratio is past 1 aquatuner to 1 turbine. Yes it's two to three like in the picture but you have to use steel for the aquatuners. I started pumping the coolant water around by base instead of hydrogen and that's working TOO well, so that's the way to go I guess.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 17:16
|
|
|
Does anyone have a good guide or some screen shots of how to make a cooling loop with aquatuners?
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 18:02
|
|
|
Demon_Corsair posted:Does anyone have a good guide or some screen shots of how to make a cooling loop with aquatuners? I followed this guy's instructions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBr_wMD2w7k
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 19:06
|
|
|
If you're using water for temperature regulation you're probably better off setting it more or less at the temperature you want to hit, because as noted it has a high thermal capacity which means it can effectively pull the temperature down or up without needing a high temperature differential to do it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 19:22
|
|
|
So I've found a couple of these ATEN things on my map, they're just super heatsinks right? I run some water pipes around them and then feed them hydrogen to make a cooling loop?
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 19:36
|
|
|
I'm thinking about making a completely new base location on my existing seed. Am I underestimating how long that would take vs just fixing my existing starting location? I feel like my wires, pipes, etc would just take so long to rework, not to mention expanding room sizes and everything. And of course, dupes would probably managed to kill themselves.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 20:13
|
|
|
McGibby posted:I'm thinking about making a completely new base location on my existing seed. Am I underestimating how long that would take vs just fixing my existing starting location? I feel like my wires, pipes, etc would just take so long to rework, not to mention expanding room sizes and everything. And of course, dupes would probably managed to kill themselves. It’s pretty dependent on when and where it is. If you can leave your current base completely intact till you set up everything over there it’s dertainly doable. If you have to overlap new construction with existing construction you might be better off just restarting because that can get messy really fast and oops you had to cut off your food or oxygen supply in the middle of things. Also remember that the area you are moving to is likely either much hotter or much colder than your starting biome was. You also can not relocate your printer so keep that in mind. My go-to strat is generally just keep my base located at the center where it spawned, find a seed I really like, then plan all my expansion out early and build out as needed. This means I don’t have any big redesigns, which can really suck really fast.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 20:17
|
|
|
PoultryGeist posted:So I've found a couple of these ATEN things on my map, they're just super heatsinks right? I run some water pipes around them and then feed them hydrogen to make a cooling loop? Pretty much, yeah. Immerse the AETN in a hydrogen atmosphere to make the most of the heat transfer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 20:18
|
|
|
Mazz posted:It’s pretty dependent on when and where it is. If you can leave your current base completely intact till you set up everything over there it’s dertainly doable. If you have to overlap new construction with existing construction you might be better off just restarting because that can get messy really fast and oops you had to cut off your food or oxygen supply in the middle of things. I would definitely do this as a stand along thing, leave my current base totally intact and then move once the new base is good to go. I guess I'm just feeling hemmed in by chlorine and other gas pockets and punching into them and then having them fall into my base seems unpleasant to deal with, if only because then I'm going to have lots of pockets of other gas messing with stuff. I might also just be looking for a project after feeling like I got my power grid to a pretty good place.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 20:53
|
|
|
Francis John heating up about a quarter of his map to 150C with a giant wall of tempshift plates  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=513FHjHrWS8
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 21:26
|
|
|
Sage Grimm posted:Pretty much, yeah. Immerse the AETN in a hydrogen atmosphere to make the most of the heat transfer. Thanks for the confirmation and the tip! The Unpleasant Panopticon will survive a little longer, surface or bust!
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 21:35
|
|
|
I tend to use my first AETN as primarily a water tank cooler to get a solid supply of 16-ish degree water for switching over to bristle berries. It is usually running off the hydrogen output of my first, and second depending on dupe population, SPOM (sigh) and has the extra cooling capacity to also cool the oxygen output before it goes into my base. So one AETN gives me cool water for minor base cooling but primarily endless food production, and secondarily oxygen generation and conditioning.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 22:05
|
|
|
Demon_Corsair posted:Does anyone have a good guide or some screen shots of how to make a cooling loop with aquatuners? I took some screenshots of the super-compact tuner build I'm using scattered around my base. This one is for cooling an arbor farm on Oasisse, but it has a similar one elsewhere that cools my entire living quarters. Neither of them is taxed very hard, and both are using gold amalgam aquatuners. The compactness of the build means the turbine is not as power-positive as it could be, but I have a literal million kg of coal from my 12-bay hatchfarm (again, Oasisse) so I'm not hurting for power. It costs maybe 800 watts to run when cooling (vs. maybe 500 if it was built at peak-efficency).        There's 600 kilos of oil and 600 kilos of water in the chamber before capping it with tiles. No vacuuming necessary. insta fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Aug 26, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 22:37
|
|
|
Just a buncha hatches waking up for the evening: https://i.imgur.com/LP7Difb.gifv I never really did much with ranching before, but these things really do add up after a while, even without much attention from dupes.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 23:05
|
|
|
Demon_Corsair posted:Does anyone have a good guide or some screen shots of how to make a cooling loop with aquatuners? Here's what my usual design looks like:   Liquid comes in from the bottom left, and every time it comes back out it goes through a thermo sensor to see if it's warm enough to go in for another round. In this case I'm using salt water, so I'm making sure it's hotter than 10 degrees C before going in. If the liquid is cool enough it goes through the liquid valve instead, which is just there to prevent the liquid from flowing backwards. The gas pump in there was used before the whole things was started just to get rid of any gases before it filled up with steam. Not sure if it's necessary, but I feel it's the right thing to do if you grew up in a furnished home. You'll want some way to turn it off when you're done though, so it doesn't start pumping steam everywhere, ruining everything for everyone. Oh, and make sure everything is made out of steel. The thermo sensors inside probably aren't necessary, but they're a way to turn it off it gets too hot in there I guess. The steam generator itself also runs kinda hot, so you'll probably want to think of some way to cool it down in the long run.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2019 23:35
|
|
|
It warms my heart when players provide their hatches a dirt floor to sleep in.  OK heart is getting too warm, applying wheezewort
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 01:17
|
|
|
So speaking of thermo aquatuners, here's probably the dumbest way possible to use one! I'm trying to grow pincha peppernuts and nosh beans, but I didn't have a conveniently warm enough area for the peppers or a cold enough area for the beans, but I do have lots of ethanol and so I consolidated several ethanol reservoirs above and to the left and am pumping it into pepper farm in insulated pipes, where I've set up an aquatuner just, y'know, out in the open, along with a petrol generator that takes a bit of the ethanol and a battery, and a bunch of tempshift plats now that I understand a little better what they do:  the juice comes out much colder and is piped down to the beans in a radiant pipe to cool them - not irrigate them because I don't think that would work very quickly or at all, it just passes behind them and cools them and then dumps into the main ethanol resevoir below them  and it's working, spicy tofu here we come   e: tempshift plats on the beans too, sure 
Flesh Forge fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Aug 27, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 02:33
|
|
|
So i've never used tempshift plates because I don't really fully understand their exact mechanics - what's the difference between an extremely low thermal conductivity tempshift plate and an insulated plate? What does it mean by it having an area of effect? Does it just try to take in all the heat in its area of effect around it and move heat around in an attempt to make it all the same temperature? Wouldn't this be a bad thing for an 'insulated' tempshift plate? I can't really use them if I don't really understand what they /do/. The fact that they're apparently like a wallpaper instead of a solid wall makes them weird.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 03:20
|
|
|
Wolpertinger posted:So i've never used tempshift plates because I don't really fully understand their exact mechanics - what's the difference between an extremely low thermal conductivity tempshift plate and an insulated plate? What does it mean by it having an area of effect? Does it just try to take in all the heat in its area of effect around it and move heat around in an attempt to make it all the same temperature? Wouldn't this be a bad thing for an 'insulated' tempshift plate? Tempshift with low conductivity can basically stop temperature flow across that boundary layer. Plastic is actually the lowest common material for thermal conductivity, with ceramic and dirt not far behind. Basically it will draw a line for the temperature calculations; a wall without actually building a wall. I've never actually used it as such but does work AFAIK. ---- On another note, if you've ever ranched flying creatures you know how much of a pain in the rear end it is to lure them in, especially now that airborne critter lures don't just hold them in place forever. The trick is to lure them into a small space, then put down a critter drop-off. Set the drop-off to wrangle all excess critters but assign no critter. Assuming you have a proper dropoff point, your dupes will call down and wrangle any flying monster within that "ranch" and transfer them to your actual ranch. 
Mazz fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Aug 27, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 03:42
|
|
|
Wolpertinger posted:I can't really use them if I don't really understand what they /do/. The fact that they're apparently like a wallpaper instead of a solid wall makes them weird. if you use a thermally conductive material it conducts heat between its neighboring tiles and from any thermally conductive things sharing a tile with it e.g. pipes, rails and wires, so in this case with the beans they transfer their heat into the coolant pipe, and themselves become colder, lowering the temperature of the tile even after the coolant is gone. Refined metals are super good at this but granite is not too bad, only a bit worse than iron ore, and there's gobs of it and also has a decor bonus so that's what I used
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 04:15
|
|
|
I really wish deodorizers didn’t store polluted oxygen so I could plop one to clear a square and then destruct it without it making GBS threads out the poo gas. It doesn’t matter to have <5 little clouds spread throughout my base but *damnit* I want it perfect.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 06:41
|
|
|
Mazz posted:Tempshift with low conductivity can basically stop temperature flow across that boundary layer. Plastic is actually the lowest common material for thermal conductivity, with ceramic and dirt not far behind. Basically it will draw a line for the temperature calculations; a wall without actually building a wall. I've never actually used it as such but does work AFAIK. Eh, can't really agree on this. It does buffer the temperature flow a bit, but it doesn't stop it at all. Normal buildings exchange heat with the tile they occupy, tempshift plates exchange heat with the tiles in a 3x3 area centered on the plate itself. Since it effectively exchanges 9 times instead of 1 it massively increases heat flow. It does have a mass of 800kg which can buffer heat a bit, but without some sort of cooling/heating to counter the heat flow it only buys time. The mechanics behind this are definitely opaque. Back when you could build tempshift plates out of abyssalite doing so basically did nothing. The plates are useless as insulation. I did see a cool video a while back of someone who did gas sorting using a sequence of plates cooled by aquatuners which condensed each gas. The plates/temperatures were ordered from lowest condensation point to hydrogen. Extremely energy intensive, probably a bad idea, but cool to see in operation. Smiling Demon fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Aug 27, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 09:39
|
|
|
Smiling Demon posted:Eh, can't really agree on this. It does buffer the temperature flow a bit, but it doesn't stop it at all. Normal buildings exchange heat with the tile they occupy, tempshift plates exchange heat with the tiles in a 3x3 area centered on the plate itself. Since it effectively exchanges 9 times instead of 1 it massively increases heat flow. It does have a mass of 800kg which can buffer heat a bit, but without some sort of cooling/heating to counter the heat flow it only buys time. The mechanics behind this are definitely opaque. That’s likely true, looking at the TC even plastic is still 0.15 which is too high to be a true insulator. Apparently you can use super isolation or whatever that space material is and it’s 0.000 like old abyassalite though. I assume the gas in front of plates is still moving enough to bypass said transfer restriction, so it’s more just slowing down heat movement. I had never actually tried it but that was the impression I got from description/comments. At the same time I could see a lot of uses for that but there was never any examples of such so I was skeptical to begin with. Good to know. Mazz fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Aug 27, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 11:49
|
|
|
Anime Store Adventure posted:I really wish deodorizers didn’t store polluted oxygen so I could plop one to clear a square and then destruct it without it making GBS threads out the poo gas. It’s stupid and tedious but you can build 3 blocks in a cross around the deodorizer and then deconstruct it. The PO2 will be stuck in the middle, build a solid block there and it’ll destroy the gas inside. It’s how people make vacuum wall gaps, just repurposed. Or just turn on sandbox and destroy the deodorizer, much faster and the same outcome. You can also destroy the little clouds this way, just make sure nothing relevant is in the tile when you delete, including dupes. Sometimes it’s not worth the loving effort to clean up like 12g of PO2 or CO2 that refuse to follow any laws of physics I always have sandbox on in my games to do exactly that occasionally, and also flatten out the netronium side walls (poo poo always gets stuck on them and they look dumb), and before mods to delete those POI game objects like the desks and broken lights. Mazz fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Aug 27, 2019 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 12:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 22:17 |
|
|
Anyone know how space works? I chose a lava rock and I dug up to space and there is an enclosed space area that has -30C temps right beside it. I'm using it with a water loop to cool the insulated area around my base. Since there are 1500C temps within 30 squares of the bottom of my base. 58+ outside of the insulated tiles. Water temp in my cooling pipe went from 31C down to 26 at the moment so it seems to be working. My biggest worry right now is whether or not those cool temps are going to stay around because of space, or if it is some sort of bug or it will just heat up eventually.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2019 20:43
|
|