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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Could also be toe drag when stepping up and not pivoting, I pivot a lot and usually wear a spot below my big toe and not the front of the sole/Rand area - looks like you drag the inside of your big toe for balance when you step up with the opposite leg which is a really common problem. Agreed, it could absolutely be that as well.
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Aug 20, 2019 13:34
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Could also be toe drag when stepping up and not pivoting, I pivot a lot and usually wear a spot below my big toe and not the front of the sole/Rand area - looks like you drag the inside of your big toe for balance when you step up with the opposite leg which is a really common problem. Thanks for the pointer, I'll try to see if I do that. I know it happens sometimes when keeping the foot close to the wall is necessary if I don't want to fall off, but I didn't think I did it often enough to be a problem. I'll try to keep an eye on that and see if I do it more often than I think.
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Aug 20, 2019 17:34
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Smearing to holds wore out my first pair of shoes in three months. I've had my second pair for the same amount of time and they aren't anywhere near as worn, despite my sessions being longer now. Keep working on technique and your shoes will last longer.
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Aug 20, 2019 20:42
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Does anyone here use any collagen supplements? Do they seem to help with recovery? I have a pretty bad diet that I'm not looking to shore up anytime soon and I've heard that collagen goes a long way for athletes with bad nutrition.
rest his guts fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 20:47
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I take Vital Proteins about 4-5 days a week, especially if I climb. I figure as a middle-aged climber my tendons/joints need all the help they can get. Hard to tell if it really makes a difference or not though.
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Aug 21, 2019 21:15
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https://imgur.com/a/PaUfLlB wasn't sure what angle was best. They look fine to me, except the right shoe (left of the photo) is a bit beat up looking on the toe? But again I don't particularly know what to look for outside of what was said the other day on the topic
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Aug 22, 2019 22:23
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Sab669 posted:https://imgur.com/a/PaUfLlB wasn't sure what angle was best. They look fine to me, except the right shoe (left of the photo) is a bit beat up looking on the toe? But again I don't particularly know what to look for outside of what was said the other day on the topic That beat up spot is at the seam of two different sections of rubber. You should be fine for a while yet. On the other pair, that seam had crept down until the whole point of the toe was rubber from the upper (rand) part. On yours you can see that the seam still runs straight across horizontally. It'll start to dip down in the highest wear part of the toe, exposing more and more of the rand.
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Aug 22, 2019 23:12
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Any advice on recovering from finger injuries, like A2 pulley or what have you? I take a few weeks off at a time and wait for the pain to go away, start off slowly, and inevitably I bust my finger up just as bad on even the mildest crimps. It's not even red or swollen, it just hurts. It is so dang discouraging since I have barely climbed in months 
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Aug 23, 2019 05:21
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KingColliwog posted:yeah it's 60$ here for a resole and it would cost me 180$ for a new pair + hating myself because buying a disposable shoe when it's totally possible to resole and reuse for longer doesn't sound super ethical to me Buy a new pair of nicer, tight shoes when your old ones are sent in for resole–when you get them back the old pair can be for the easy days. I too am disappointed with the price of climbing shoes–feels like when I started 7 years ago there were more options in the sub-$100 range, and a high end shoe like the LS Solution was usually had for no more than $150. Now I time my outdoor purchases to when the major retailers have their annual 20% off coupons. Gym memberships are expensive enough, why should shoes too?
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Aug 23, 2019 16:12
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armorer posted:That beat up spot is at the seam of two different sections of rubber. You should be fine for a while yet. On the other pair, that seam had crept down until the whole point of the toe was rubber from the upper (rand) part. On yours you can see that the seam still runs straight across horizontally. It'll start to dip down in the highest wear part of the toe, exposing more and more of the rand. Thanks 
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Aug 23, 2019 16:14
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Suicide Watch posted:Buy a new pair of nicer, tight shoes when your old ones are sent in for resole–when you get them back the old pair can be for the easy days. I linked a study/report several pages ago (I think from American alpine club) where they found people spend more on climbing today than they did before, but basically all of the increase can be attributed to climbing gear having gotten more expensive. I agree it’s ludicrous.
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Aug 23, 2019 18:49
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Tippecanoe posted:Any advice on recovering from finger injuries, like A2 pulley or what have you? I take a few weeks off at a time and wait for the pain to go away, start off slowly, and inevitably I bust my finger up just as bad on even the mildest crimps. It's not even red or swollen, it just hurts. It is so dang discouraging since I have barely climbed in months https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries This is pretty comprehensive. I lack the discipline to follow a rehab regimine so I tape up problem fingers and stick to pinch and sloper problems until things stop hurting.
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Aug 23, 2019 21:07
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Low intensity load hanging (40-60% max weight) has also shown to help recover fingers faster, and can also inhibit pain for 45-60 minutes after. So 6 sets of 60% hangs on an edge before training then monitoring your effort level on the wall is a decent protocol
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Aug 24, 2019 17:08
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I have definitely noticed a marked improvement in the quality of a niggling finger injury since I started doing low intensity hangs though I'm doing it in a very poorly monitored way (I'm doing sets off the underside of the stairs at work while I'm on break, it does seem to be helping!)
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Aug 24, 2019 17:31
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When I get pulley injuries, I continue to climb regularly, except I avoid underhang problems. I've had two pulley injuries and got over both of them in about a month that way.
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Aug 24, 2019 18:08
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BlancoNino posted:https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries Ive used this recovery plan for pulley injuries in the past, it's a good approach.
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Aug 25, 2019 00:08
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This red on the comp wall will be taken down on Friday, but the downward dyno would be an illegal set in a competition, right? https://www.instagram.com/p/B1okt2rJ_ah/?igshid=1hg9liiemsa5z
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Aug 27, 2019 19:53
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Yes, any sort of downward jump is illegal. I believe this is mostly designed to prevent shoulder injuries when catching yourself with your hands, but it's illegal in the IFSC rules regardless.
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Aug 27, 2019 20:01
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Son of Discovery
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Aug 28, 2019 15:50
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Do you guys use any sort of products on your hands after climbing? I normally don't, but I was given a container of this stuff the other day. Put some on last night, I liked the smell but $15 for a 2oz tin is dumb. It seemed no different than using just regular moisturizer, if one were so inclined. Seems like it's just ~~all natural~~
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Aug 28, 2019 18:51
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Popular Utah rock-climbing spot [Castleton Tower] vibrates in time with earth, wind, and waves
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Aug 28, 2019 19:06
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Sab669 posted:Do you guys use any sort of products on your hands after climbing? I normally don't, but I was given a container of this stuff the other day. Put some on last night, I liked the smell but $15 for a 2oz tin is dumb. It seemed no different than using just regular moisturizer, if one were so inclined. Seems like it's just ~~all natural~~ It's not regular moisturizer, but it's definitely no more special than say burt's beeswax or other anti-bacterial beeswax based stuff. I use rhino skin because I started having a bunch of skin issues and it's definitely helping, but I'm sure I could get similar results out of a cheaper product, this was just easier and I know it's worked for a bunch of people. Skin definitely becomes a limiting a factor in a lot of climbing, but if it isn't for you I wouldn't worry about it. Their equivalent to that tin is called "split" and it's $12 for 2.5 oz, and their website doesn't go nearly as hard on the "all natural essentials oil" crap that the one you linked or stuff like climbon does, which I'm not a fan of. It's worth noting that 2 oz is actually a loving ton in practice, at least it was for climbOn bars when I used them.
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Aug 28, 2019 19:13
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Buy Jtree climbing salve or whatever it's called. I've had the same little thing for almost two years.
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Aug 28, 2019 19:15
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I just use gold bond moisturizer when my hands are feeling extra dry
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Aug 28, 2019 19:54
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I bought some beeswax and some shea butter and just make my own for stupid cheap. Before I used O'Keefe working hand which is amazing for easy to find commercial stuff
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Aug 29, 2019 00:48
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i use like, regular-rear end unscented hand lotion after gym climbing which is out of the ordinary for me, but chalk & relatively high friction holds tend to dry out my hands even more i also keep a climbon bar in my crag pack and that seems to work pretty well on the rare occasion i use it
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Aug 29, 2019 01:31
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KingColliwog posted:I bought some beeswax and some shea butter and just make my own for stupid cheap. Yep, this is the way. I make lotion bars that are 1:1:1 Shea butter, coconut oil, and beeswax melted down into cupcake tins. Heals the poo poo oh my hands from the antibacterial soap at work, too.
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Aug 29, 2019 13:10
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KingColliwog posted:Before I used O'Keefe working hand which is amazing for easy to find commercial stuff O'Keefe's is definitely the lazy poor man's choice.
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Aug 29, 2019 18:04
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDIV81zVLGQ After watching myself, I think I just need to get my legs up higher and then bump to the left and top out, but... I'd love some beta/feedback. I've been able to get to this point for like 2 weeks now and I just can't figure it out  e; also if it's not apparent in the video,  it's super overhung Sab669 fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Aug 30, 2019 |
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Aug 30, 2019 03:25
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Sab669 posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDIV81zVLGQ Definitely looks like you're supposed to bump. Put your right foot where your left was when you tried to cross, bump, then higher right foot and finish.
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Aug 30, 2019 03:47
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Sab669 posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDIV81zVLGQ Higher left foot, drop knee, bump looks like the sequence
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Aug 30, 2019 05:02
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It looks like there’s a hold slightly higher than the one that you put your right foot on, could you use that to get higher?
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Aug 30, 2019 05:03
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Overall it looks like you still need to work on generating movement from your lower body/hips. You climb pretty square, which isn’t bad in itself, but on this climb it looks like there are a lot of opportunities to turn your hip into the wall and flag your opposite foot out. This will generate movement, extend your reach, and reduce load on you arms/fingers. Or if you want to keep climbing square, you can still generate movement by shifting you center of gravity and turning out your hip in the same direction. Point is, you don’t want to just place your feet and then ignore your lower body, you want to place your feet and engage with your hips. A lot of times this means having only one foot on a hold and flagging the other for optimal balance and tension.
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Aug 30, 2019 15:30
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We’re going to be in BC in September, and we were thinking of doing a day of bouldering in Squamish. Does anyone have any good resources for highlights probably up to, being realistic, V5? Is it possible to take any of the shuttles to the bouldering areas, or will we need a car? Is there any one area with a good concentration of problems, or will we need to hop around to hit the best stuff?
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Aug 30, 2019 18:39
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I mean if you just went for it you’d get it. You’re nowhere near full extension I mean poo poo - skip the hold and go for the top. Otherwise just bump your right foot and smear the left and bump the left hand rest his guts fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Aug 31, 2019 |
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Aug 31, 2019 15:38
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Take weeks off to rehab a shoulder injury. Come back for the first time, feeling good, sailing through a V5, last move gently caress up my other shoulder. 
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Aug 31, 2019 18:16
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Happens. I tweaked my left ACL playing ultimate, and waited two weeks. Eased into climbing the last week and during a really simply tiny drop knee, I heard a pop and now my ACL/knee is killing me again.
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Aug 31, 2019 20:57
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gamera009 posted:Happens. Two weeks is inadequate for a ligament sprain, speaking as an after-market ACL haver.
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Aug 31, 2019 21:20
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Hot Diggity! posted:Take weeks off to rehab a shoulder injury. Come back for the first time, feeling good, sailing through a V5, last move gently caress up my other shoulder.  (I sprained both MCLs in different sports) remote control carnivore posted:Two weeks is inadequate for a ligament sprain, speaking as an after-market ACL haver.
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Aug 31, 2019 21:43
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Yeah, unfortunate but I'll manage. On the plus side got a pair of Futuras from REI for just over $100 after the sale discount and my dividend.
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Sep 1, 2019 00:15
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