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NumbersMatching320 posted:Escalades invariably use slightly hotrodded versions of whatever the chevy truck of the day has, in this case an LQ9. Starter's on the passenger's side, right in front of the crank sensor so that you inadvertently smash it when changing the starter out and get to listen to your brand new starter endlessly crank a now-completely-dead engine. Something like this made me want to hurl the most earth-shattering torrent of vulgarities that the car world has ever seen. I was ready for the sensor to be in the way. I was NOT ready to have the sensor be DIFFERENT than every other loving LSx motor picture that I could find, PLUS the connector was fully INSIDE an inch-and-a-quarter bolt. It took me far too long to figure out how to get that connector off so that I could get the goddamned starter back in. Ultimately, I had to stick a pick deep inside and unclip the fastener and it came out, but god drat, that was unnecessary. But, it starts now. This bastard, right here: 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:43 on May 1, 2019 |
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May 1, 2019 18:39
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EVERYWHERE 
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I'm having trouble getting my bearings from the photo but given the giant hex... is that in the side of the oil pan? Because the only thing like that on my LS1 is the oil level sensor.
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May 1, 2019 19:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm having trouble getting my bearings from the photo but given the giant hex... is that in the side of the oil pan? Because the only thing like that on my LS1 is the oil level sensor. Yep, that's it. I couldn't find a damned thing about removing that connector. It looked like a regular weather pack connector from where the wires connected, but I couldn't find any references about the clip inside the sensor.  And if there was ONE INCH more wire, I could have done it with the connector in place.
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May 1, 2019 19:54
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I hope you ordered an in line flaring tool and not another bar one. I have both, started with the in line model, then a bar one that is awful. You can use the in line model anywhere but that bar one only works on the bench.
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May 2, 2019 02:58
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StormDrain posted:I hope you ordered an in line flaring tool and not another bar one. I have both, started with the in line model, then a bar one that is awful. You can use the in line model anywhere but that bar one only works on the bench. gently caress bar clamp flare tools forever. I'm inline all the way. Don't even waste your time with the bars.
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May 2, 2019 03:27
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StormDrain posted:I hope you ordered an in line flaring tool and not another bar one. I have both, started with the in line model, then a bar one that is awful. You can use the in line model anywhere but that bar one only works on the bench. I got this one... haven't even taken it out of the package yet, though... OEMTOOLS 24364 In Line Flaring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DO9142G
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May 2, 2019 03:28
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I've got the same one but mine only has one die. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the results the first time you use it.
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May 2, 2019 13:32
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Yep, I think that's the exact one I have. It's amazing. I have a bar version too just for those once in a rare while times I need to flare something else, because that's a tool where you can't trust the rentals.
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May 2, 2019 14:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yep, I think that's the exact one I have. It's amazing. Yeah, I learned the rental lesson the hard way. Glad to hear the one I got will do the job. Maybe next week. This week was getting the Escalade starting and the ebike repaired. Both have been accomplished. I stripped the ebike down and took it to a local welder yesterday. The company that made a running change where they welded a reinforcing plate to two lower tubes, and that's right where my frame was broken. So, he re-welded the broken weld then cut out a plate from my template and welded it on. I painted it up and it's going to work fine. I was riding it hard, at speed, with one tube broken off and the other with a serious kink and it barely flexed in that area, so it's bulletproof now. He didn't weld across the front of the plate to the downtube, because he said that's how cracks happen. He said there needed to be some stress to keep the joints solid. Based on the fact that he had B-2 stickers from a manufacturing group all over his shop and toolbox, I'll defer to his experience.
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May 3, 2019 12:28
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I've got the same one but mine only has one die. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the results the first time you use it. I just got to doing this job. That tool is worlds better than the bar. I was able to cut out a 18" section, flare both sides of the stock line and both sides of the replacement section and it sealed up first try.  Of course the first bleeder I tried snapped right off, but I was planning on replacing some calipers anyway. It drives and brakes hard enough to engage ABS on dry pavement, so it's functional at the moment, but not optimal. I'll get some calipers ordered today.
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May 15, 2019 16:55
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meatpimp posted:I just got to doing this job. That tool is worlds better than the bar. I was able to cut out a 18" section, flare both sides of the stock line and both sides of the replacement section and it sealed up first try. Hell yeah. I think I actually shouted with joy after the first flare I did with mine. Glad it worked out for you.
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May 15, 2019 18:41
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Thread update. Cadillac worked fine with the new starter, for about 2 weeks. Then the cheapo starter started spinning, but the bendix wouldn't engage. It always started fine when cold, but when it sat for 5-10 minutes, it'd not engage. I added a starter blanket, since there was no heat shield on the starter that I replaced, but that made no difference. So, time for another starter. I bought a Delco starter this time, and I also saw a tip that the electrical was easy to get to through the left front wheelwell behind the splash shield. Well, it was easier-er, but not easy. I ended up doing it that way, though, because the actual remove-and-replace went better without the solenoid and starter wires connected. It starts fine now, hopefully it stays that way. I'm tired of chasing that issue. I started driving the Avalon around town after I fixed the brakes. I ended up having to replace both rear calipers, since the bleeders were super hosed. After that, the system bled fine except for the right front caliper, which also broke a bleeder. I'll replace that caliper eventually, but it's got a nice firm pedal now, so I'm not super concerned. Then I got it new shoes. The stock wheels were corroded to hell, and the 2015 Michelins still had great tread, but were extremely dryrotted.  I have been looking for wheels for a while and saw a set from a 2015 Sienna pop up cheap on Craigslist, so I bought them. The offset was 8mm less than stock, but it looked like I had suspension and brake clearance. But it didn't. Suspension cleared fine, but the caliper bracket interfered by about 3mm. I ground some of the bracket down and drove it to let it self-machine clearance on the wheel. That was an extremely sketchy endeavor, but it worked. It hit on a part of the wheel that was super chunky, so a slight groove removed is no big deal. Still, another pain in the rear end job that took 5 times longer than it should have. And if I ever rotate the tires, it'll be another pain.But, it looks much more modern with minivan wheels.
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Jun 10, 2019 14:17
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Hi thread. You've been languishing as I've just been driving cars and having to find a new car for my wife. From the June chat thread: Trip report: Chemical burns, but ice cold air conditioning. 2000 Toyota Avalon -- I've had it a couple years, 166k miles and smoked in like it was making brisket. I got rid of all the odors with and ozone generator right after I got it, but the AC was always tepid. Gauges said the charge was fine, I just dealt with it. But this year, it started cooling better, and I noticed drainage from the condensate drain for the first time. I started to think that there may be some poo poo on the evaporator, so I squirted some coil cleaner up the drain and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I drove it and had the compressor run for about 45 minutes to get as much of the coil cleaner off as possible. The result? 49* air out of the center vents with recirculating off and 38* air out of the center vents with recirculating on... and an 86* ambient temperature. The only bad part was that I missed a dollop of coil cleaner on my forearm when I washed my hands, and when I looked down an hour later, the hair was gone and the skin was red where it was. Washed it off and dumped some baking soda on it. Good enough for triage. It's been working fantastically well in 95*+ heat. In fact, I've found a new appreciation for this 20 year old appliance. It is smooth, solid and has cold air. Leather, auto climate control, JBL stereo with subwoofer, heated power seats... it's decent spec for current day... and I've got $2k in it, including the new wheels and tires. Salute to early '00 Toyotas. And, in a similar vein, where I'm in relentless pursuit of vehicular appliances, I see that we don't have an Acura thread? Why? I'm assuming because they're refrigerators. So I bought one. After a ridiculous month of getting buleballed by dealers that were shady as gently caress, I found a 2015 Acura RDX AWD with Technology package and only 28k miles within a couple miles from my house. I actually talked to the guy during the beginning of the month, but he was priced too high and I was looking for current tech stuff. This car doesn't have blind spot or autonomic stopping, but hopefully it has refrigerator DNA and it'll just keep Honda-ing for a long time. It's a really nice car. Extremely smooth, reasonable power, very quiet and chill cabin. Extremely clean inside and carwash-only outside. I've got it clayed and Ultimate Compounded and it's in exceptional shape. I'll get a ceramic coating on it tomorrow and turn it over to my wife in a couple days. I suck at before pictures, the one below is all I have. After pictures, well... after...
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Jul 29, 2019 23:10
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Man that's some ugly arsed grill design
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Jul 29, 2019 23:48
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Congrats on finding a car and not having to deal with the bullshit anymore! Still waiting on a payout from Geico, and the guy selling the NB Miata hasn't responded yet....Guess he doesn't really want to sell it
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Jul 29, 2019 23:55
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You Am I posted:Man that's some ugly arsed grill design It really is, I've never liked it, but the rest of the car is fine, so I have seen that center section painted black and that looks reasonable. Maybe someday. Applebees Appetizer posted:Congrats on finding a car and not having to deal with the bullshit anymore! Thanks, but man... I met the guy at the bank today and his first words were "I'm having second thoughts." And I just said "You can't do that to me." He was struggling with it, but idk what I would have done if that didn't happen smoothly. It's been a long month of bullshit. Good luck on your bullshit.
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Jul 30, 2019 00:31
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Shot of the driver's and left rear passenger's door. Come at me. And put my weeds in a lawn bag.
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Jul 31, 2019 15:28
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That's loving impressive. Especially because every Honda I see over 3 years old in any kind of gray already has the clear coat flaking.
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Jul 31, 2019 15:37
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Wow that's nice, wish i had your skill and desire to do that 
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Jul 31, 2019 16:09
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meatpimp posted:Of course the first bleeder I tried snapped right off, but I was planning on replacing some calipers anyway. I was reading through and saw this, any reason you wouldn't drill out/extract/replace the old bleed screws? I get that it's less of a headache with the new units, especially if you value your personal time doing things you want rather than rebuilding calipers, just don't know if it's bad practice. I've got 2 cars that I'd like to get some new fluid into, but  when I saw the bleeders start to deform rather than spin.
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Aug 1, 2019 16:29
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My wife has a 2015 Accord. Do yourself a favor and put a layer of this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-Plastic-Gutter-Guard/50031732 behind the lower grill. The condenser is mounted there and made out of tissue paper. We had to replace one after about 18 months because a rack hit it and made a pinhole. Honda is aware of the problem, but doesn't cover it under either the factory or extended warranties. There is a special grill guard for Odyssey minivans because they have the same problem.
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Aug 1, 2019 16:46
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I will give you that Honda Today that is about to be here if you will travel to my house and detail all of my imports for the rest of time
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Aug 1, 2019 19:30
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NoWake posted:I was reading through and saw this, any reason you wouldn't drill out/extract/replace the old bleed screws? I get that it's less of a headache with the new units, especially if you value your personal time doing things you want rather than rebuilding calipers, just don't know if it's bad practice. I've got 2 cars that I'd like to get some new fluid into, but In a time/cost consideration, it's better for me to wait until there's a caliper that shows up in Amazon's Warehouse for $40 and swap it out than drill/tap a 20 year old caliper that's already not the smoothest on its slides. PhotoKirk posted:My wife has a 2015 Accord. Do yourself a favor and put a layer of this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-Plastic-Gutter-Guard/50031732 behind the lower grill. The condenser is mounted there and made out of tissue paper. We had to replace one after about 18 months because a rack hit it and made a pinhole. Very interesting, thank you. I'll look into it. everdave posted:I will give you that Honda Today that is about to be here if you will travel to my house and detail all of my imports for the rest of time If it was a manual, we'd be close to a deal. In other news, today was spent cleaning and detailing the Juke for sale. It cleaned up really, really well. No matter what the Acura does, it won't be better than the Juke. The Juke has not had anything fail, required nothing other than brakes/tires/fluids (other than the 02 sensor that I think was probably fine, just not seated properly). Over 5 Ohio years and now has over 80k miles on it. No extreme gloss shot, but you can see by the pavers' reflection that it ain't t-bag.
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Aug 1, 2019 21:19
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Killer, I am a sucker for white cars anyways. Had a rental Juke once and they are really more than the sum of their parts, cool little cars.
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Aug 1, 2019 21:25
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If the Juke was so reliable and great why sell it?
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Aug 1, 2019 23:24
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Because it's ugly?
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Aug 1, 2019 23:27
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Because it's ugly? It used to stand out a lot more than it does now. Cars seem to have more random lines and fins and gills and stuff now. Resting Lich Face posted:If the Juke was so reliable and great why sell it? Because I'm not convinced of the CVT's reliability long-term. Plus, it's loaded with options and features, but it's still a commuter. My wife likes the Acura because it's quiet and smooth already, so I'm good.
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Aug 1, 2019 23:31
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My buddy whom is the most docile easy person just had a Sentra poo poo the cvt was going to be $4k just out of warranty. I unleashed a tirade on Twitter (only thing I use it for) they good willed down to around $1200.
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Aug 2, 2019 01:38
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Because it's ugly?
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Aug 2, 2019 15:38
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meatpimp posted:
https://www.odyclub.com/threads/roadhazard-ac-condenser-damage.33056/ Here's a thread discussing it.
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Aug 2, 2019 16:28
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I like the e-CVT though.
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Aug 2, 2019 16:35
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PhotoKirk posted:https://www.odyclub.com/threads/roadhazard-ac-condenser-damage.33056/ I think they've changed stuffs since then. The front of this car is mostly closed with only a couple small openings that would hit straight into the condenser. I'll keep watching, though. Thread updates -- Juke is gone. After 2 people made agreements to buy it, then backed out. Then another person made an appointment to see it at 7:30PM... at 7:00PM that day, I got a text from the second person that backed out and she again wanted to buy it. I told her someone was coming to look at it in (by that time) 15 minutes. We made a deal on price and she said she'd bring cash right over. So, I debated with my wife about giving the person coming to look at it a heads-up, but I thought that since we were within 10 minutes, they would already be on their way. I went to the meeting place and they did show up, right on time... only to find out that they drove from over an hour away to see it. I felt terrible, but minutes after that, the buyer showed up with cash and took it. Weird end to a weird sale. It sat for weeks with no action, and at the end there was a flurry. I ended up having to text 2 different people who were also asking about it that it was sold. In projects, I've got a new Pioneer 2300NEX head unit to put into the Escalade. I've got a metra kit for the amps and power and the other kit for the steering wheel controls. I may start that today. Yesterday was brakes on the RDX. 2015 RDX with only 29k miles. The thing is like brand new everywhere but the brakes, which had a significant grinding when you stepped on them. Bottom line is that the PO never really "drove" the car and I don't think it saw anything other than the most casual of braking, because the inner pads were seized into place on all corners. I took everything off, cleaned the calipers, painted the calipers with 2 coats of POR15 caliper paint (excellent stuff, I've used it before and it leaves a rock hard and glossy finish with minimal work), new Bosch ceramic pads, and new coated rotors. First sign of luck -- all 4 screws that hold the rotors in place came right out. That's amazing.  Looks pretty shabby.  On its way. (I just hand-threaded the calipers and brackets together to make it easier to paint them)  Finished.  The difference is impressive. It was always smooth, but I could feel a bit of the pads rubbing on the lovely rotor surfaces. Now it's smooth all the time, and braking is perfect. It's amazing how much of a difference it made, especially with that low of a mileage. I wonder how many people are driving cars in much worse shape than they realize. Edit: cross posted from the car audio thread: Okay. I was all set to install a new head unit in my '05 Escalade today. I ordered a MVH-2300NEX from Amazon. I went to test fit the unit and saw they actually sent me a MVH-AV251BT. Obviously, this is not cool. But as I look at the units spec-for-spec, they seem identical... what am I missing and is it worth it to return and rebuy, or just put this one in instead?
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Sep 8, 2019 |
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Sep 8, 2019 14:02
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meatpimp posted:Edit: cross posted from the car audio thread: E: and more preamp outputs. And support for sirius. And... https://www.crutchfield.com/S-mitT7VT6dAx/compare_1302300NEX_130291BT/Pioneer-MVH-2300NEX-vs-Pioneer-AVH-291BT.html
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Sep 8, 2019 18:06
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Alright. Update. Going to crosspost this in my garbage thread. After Amazon shipping a non-2200NEX instead of what I ordered, I ended up taking a chance with a 4400NEX from eBay. Great loving choice. This thing is impressively capable. But installation is not easy. I've got basic audio set up. HD Radio is working. Bluetooth Audio is working. However, steering wheel controls are not working. GPS antenna is undetermined. Wireless Android Auto doesn't work with my S9+, but does work with an old N6. Curiously, I think I have a working sim in the N6, so However, it doesn't really matter, since the battery in the N6 sucks and it needs to be plugged in anyway. So. I'm chasing the steering wheel controls. I'm using the Maestro SW that this thread recommended, but I'm also using a Metra wiring harness adapter. I think I should have just used the Metra steering wheel adapter too (since it was prewired for it), but The Maestro is programmed for the car. It has power and ground. I cannot get it to recognize the steering wheel signal, even though I took the light green wire coming off the steering wheel as instructed. I'm getting either 5 blinking green lights on the Maestro, or 6, or 8, depending on what I have it hooked up to. I'm kinda at a loss here, since I've tried every wire combo I can come up with... the Maestro is definitely hooked up to the head unit and sending signals, because it'll randomly make the head unit beep and change input, or volume, or .... So I'll call the Maestro people tomorrow and see what's up. The sound, though, is a world better than the stock head unit. So much more clear and powerful. Bose doesn't even sound terrible. I'm sure I'll get it sorted out, but it's a point where I'm psychically drawn down and I just want the poo poo to work... Plus, I have the A/V wiring harness ordered where I'll add front and rear cameras, which will be cool, but I'm sure another level of fresh hell.
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Sep 15, 2019 22:25
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Mr. Pimp, I owe you a giant long post, but now isn't the time. I have done absolutely nothing with the parts you sent me, however, the free61 is finally legal and I'm dailying it for the time being to learn its ways. For those playing at home, the driveline shudder was a cracked right inner CV boot and bone rear end dry joint, which I only saw when I removed the undertray to delete the front drive shaft (i still drove it for two weeks w/o the drive shaft, no codes nor lights  .) $65 from rockauto [for now] for an axle, and Bob is your mother's brother. Wasn't even that hard to install.I keep aiming for the M5 swaybar install, but chickening out... I need to get some impact torx- when I took the LCA off the ball joint I learned those nylock nuts they use don’t gently caress around. glyph fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 02:51
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2300NEX has been discontinued - they should have sent you an AVH-2500NEX. Weirdly, Sonic Electronix lists both the 2300NEX and 2400NEX on their site, but with a free upgrade to the 2500. Why list the old one as in stock if you're just going to send a newer one? FWIW, I bought this for our Outback: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_169259_Alpine-ILX-W650.html Been pretty happy with it, other than the factory McIntosh amp in the Subaru not wanting to play nicely (alternator whine despite proper grounding and ground-loop isolators.Maddening piece of poo poo special snowflake amp. It's about to come out.) edit: D'OH, should have refreshed. Apparently a little behind. I've only dealt with the Maestro once, in a buddie's Rogue, and it actually worked as intended after setup, so unfortunately can't offer any advice there. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 22:14
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Hey meatpimp, when you gonna buy another old, broken, dirty piece of poo poo? Well, now that you mention it, I am a bit overdue... I've been buried in life stuff, complicated by rebuilding the inside of the house due to a dishwasher leak. It's been a struggle to decide what to buy / how to reconfigure. It's a big job, first floor flooring and complete kitchen, and we're making some changes with partition walls and stuff, so I'm tired of studs and drywall. I need some dirty metal to polish. On Thursday, this ad popped up:  Knowing the notorious reliability of mid-'00 VWs, I thought that a broken one would be nothing but joy, so I started psycho-emailing the seller. A couple hours later, the seller contacted me. I looked at it Thursday night and made the deal. The car won me over right away, since it wouldn't start and smelled like mold covered by the entire BOTTLE of Renuzit Apple and Cinnamon scent that was sitting in the cup holder. The old, dried duct tape residue around the sunroof and still-taped windshield was just the poo poo apple on this poo poo mountain. The basics, though, are solid. The car pulls out STRONG. It's got the 280hp VR6 and it'll do a 2 wheel peel from the front wheels for as long as you want. It drives well, it's quiet (especially since the radio comes on, but plays no sound), and the brakes are worn, but not terrible. So it's time for the big clean. First a glamor shot of getting it home:  Now on to business. First up, the sunroof / water issue. He spared no expense on addressing this issue:  And after removal:  But that was the symptom. I assumed the problem was a clogged sunroof drain. And I think I was right. Taking off the cowl below the windshield, I found something that was not leaves and debris, but was formerly leaves and debris. It was full-on composting in there.  I poured some soapy water down the two front drains and, at first, nothing on the floor. I cleared out the compost material and saw a nice puddle of soapy water on the garage floor. It'll probably take more than that, but some gentle cleaning will probably fix the problem. While I was doing that, I was giving it a monster dose of ozone. I did 2 twenty-minute sessions and left it closed all night. I'll see how it's smelling here shortly. While it was getting ozoned, I set to work on the duct tape residue with some Goo Gone and patience. So far, I have about 70% of the mess cleaned up. More pictures of that later. So that's where I'm at. I'll probably get the pressure washer out today and get it scrubbed up before I try to clean it. I sat under a tree for a while and the channel around the trunk shows it.   Also, I know that the carpet was wet into the back footwell, according to the PO. With that, I think there's a good chance that the power wiring for the Dynaudio amp is corroded underneath the driver's seat. That was a known failure with a TSB. So I'll need to do some digging there. I got a moment of movement from the blower motor, other than that, it's been unresponsive. So I need to get in that. All of the soft-touch materials are hosed, so I'll be replacing switches and stuff, but it's a VW, that's normal maintenance. meatpimp's polishing another turd. (glyph, I forgot about your request for BMW :files: let's talk)
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Oct 26, 2019 12:38
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I commend you for wanting to even bother tackling poo poo like that, I used to love those kind of projects and now I can't even be bothered to wash my car Are you planning on flipping it?
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Oct 26, 2019 18:06
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$1200. My basketcase Subaru with several years on this was $2000. I hate you so much right now.
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Oct 26, 2019 19:26
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I commend you for wanting to even bother tackling poo poo like that, I used to love those kind of projects and now I can't even be bothered to wash my car Dunno, going to see where it takes me. STR posted:$1200. Sorry. I seriously psycho-emailed the guy and I thought there was no way in hell he'd actually sell it for that. I told him in an email I'd give him more than what he was asking, but when I got there, it was dead-dead. He grabbed a battery from another car and it worked. He charged this car's battery overnight and it had enough juice to start it... once. I just got back from Costco with a new battery.PROGRESS! I think... So there is a TSB for corrosion at a splice for the main power feed for the Dynaudio amp. It is a pain in the rear end to get to, unless you cut the carpet. It was a $1200 car, so...  I'd say there was a bit of corrosion. I had to cut back almost 4" until I found clean copper on the big wire. But, a quick jumper to test:  And I've got a working stereo. Sometimes the fixes are easy, even on VWs. I've been cleaning the drain channel more and the amount of DIRT... poo poo that has composted all the way down to dirt... is amazing. And kinda gross. No pictures from today, but this was the top matter on the passenger side:  And, after all that poo poo got done, I put the new battery in and all of a sudden the blower motor is working. Looks like the AC is fine and it runs all of its blend doors back and forth. The only down side so far is that the rear window tinting was bubbled all to hell and I pulled away a good bit of defroster trace when I steamed the tinting off.
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Oct 26, 2019 19:46
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