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Wow, I had no idea the WarStore story was that crazy. Bummer, I only bought from them twice but they had a good selection of different stuff that is hard to match.
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Sep 9, 2019 05:22
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DiHK posted:My favorite part: Something-something-something Zodiac Killer something-something-something "Us sex-murderers gotta stick together" something-something-something.
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Sep 9, 2019 15:39
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Holy poo poo, that Warstore thing is loving crazy. Neal is a standup guy, and it really terrible that these two pieces of poo poo hosed him over like that. I wonder what account they were selling under and I hope I didn't accidentally contribute to those bastards.
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Sep 9, 2019 19:56
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 My kill team has a ways to go yet, but I'm really happy with them so far. I still need to clean up some burrs, micro sol and touch up the decals, fix some highlights, and base them. And I'm completely in love with contrast yellow. It's an amazing starting point out of the bottle, and doesn't take much more highlighting to look better.
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Sep 10, 2019 01:45
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I spray-painted one of my models (after priming it with plastic primer) with an undercoat of Citadel's Leadbelcher, and now it has this sort of gritty texture in places. What causes this? It's not a major issue, but it's something I'd like to avoid in the future, if at all possible.
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Sep 10, 2019 14:02
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inscrutable horse posted:I spray-painted one of my models (after priming it with plastic primer) with an undercoat of Citadel's Leadbelcher, and now it has this sort of gritty texture in places. What causes this? It's not a major issue, but it's something I'd like to avoid in the future, if at all possible. Humidity and possibly an old can.
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Sep 10, 2019 14:24
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Humidity and possibly an old can. Hmmm, most likely it's an old can, then. I got it about a year ago, and almost, but not quite, used it up, and it's been sitting in the garage since then. There was just enough in it to coat about 20 or so sq/cm. I'm not 100% certain, but I think the gritty texture is on the pieces I used the old can on. Thanks for the info!
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Sep 10, 2019 14:31
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Long time lore freak, first time actually trying to collect models and play the game, so I have some questions because I'm not sure what to do with my current situation. So far I've bought the following: Necromunda + 4 gangs Fractal Blades kill team I own a very large portion of the Dark Vengeance and Blackstone Fortress models I have several kit bashed characters including some AoS Khorne berserkers that I'm converting to Nurgle berserkers for some custom 40k play, as well as several generic chaos space marines that I've kit bashed together. A poo poo ton of Admech kill team units, plus I'm building a stationary gun for them out of some ironstrider bits. Anyway, I wanted some opinions on both casting. I've otten into casting because I prefer kit bashing. I've gotten a ton of thermoplastic and although it's catching a lot of detail, I'm having a hard time getting greenstuff to not be crap. Anyone have any advice on how to use this stuff properly? And by that, I mean is there a preferred shape to make molds, or how to position bits within the medium? I can work within the time limit of the thermoplastic, but I'm finding that creating indents in the thermoplastic to line up the molds just doesn't work very well. I've also heard that combining milliput with greenstuff is preferred, is there any truth to that? I was also considering using liquid blue stuff so I could really start cutting up bodies for bits. Anyone ever use this stuff to make 2 part molds for full character models, or at least larger pieces like chests, legs, or intricate weapons? Also, liquitex modeling paste is pretty great for adding texture to nurgle models btw.
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Sep 10, 2019 19:24
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inscrutable horse posted:Hmmm, most likely it's an old can, then. I got it about a year ago, and almost, but not quite, used it up, and it's been sitting in the garage since then. There was just enough in it to coat about 20 or so sq/cm. I'm not 100% certain, but I think the gritty texture is on the pieces I used the old can on. It is from the paint drying in the air before it hits the model. Spraying from too far away, high air temp, old can drying out, etc. Paints that use large thick pigments like white are the worst.
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Sep 10, 2019 21:45
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Pastry Mistakes posted:<casting poo poo> Having faffed about with it for a little myself, the first question is, what are you looking to recast, exactly? Are you trying to just save some bucks on more pauldrons for a squadron, or are you trying to recreate full-on bits? If it's the former, you can get away with some quickie press molds, whereas the second involves significantly more work. You also mention milliput and greenstuff, which are typically used in press molds, rather than multi-part molds. To me, it sounds like you want to be doing 2-part molds, and wanna cheap out by using thermoplastics. Theoretically, you could do it, but something like that you're better off going with silicon mold-making material and using 2-party epoxy resin. There's a mold-making tutorial floating around 4chan/tg/ every so often that involves using silicone caulk and some other poo poo to make a mold with, and while you could save a little bit of money it just seems like you're more than making up for that by wasting a fuckton of time farting around trying to get everything to work like it should. As much as it's gonna suck to hear, if you wanna really do casting, spend the cash and get the silicon 2-part mold making stuff. Your best bet is probably gonna be Amazon for it, though if you have any model railroad and/or artist supply stores, there's a possibility you could find it there as well. In any case, you should also grab a digital scale (assuming you don't already have one, head shops will usually have pretty decent scales, as will restaurant supply stores), and maybe a stack or two of dollar-store dixie cups and popsicle sticks to mix in and with. Fwiw, I did a few resin recast bases for my old Warmahordes army a few years back, and while I ended up using 2-part clear resin from Michael's instead of greenstuff/milliput, it was much the same concept. I'd tried recasting a Fane Knight Guardian by putting him in the bottom of a dixie cup, pouring the instant mold over top, then pulling the model out of the cooled mold, and it was just such an incredible pain in the rear end to deal with bubbles, half-cast parts, etc. that the only way I'd do something similar is if I wanted to make a ruined statue as terrain for my Warmaster army. You're really better off spending the money and doing it right than trying to cut corners and take three times as long.
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Sep 11, 2019 00:26
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Honestly I want it for both bits and full models. I love DIY stuff and am an old crotchety man at heart who would prefer to be able to do everything himself. If I could get modeling software like whatever GW/Forgeworld/etc use I would begin making my own space barbies in a heartbeat. As a first step I figure casting is a good test of skill. I thought heads and weapons would be fine for thermoplastic, but yeah so far bodies and what not are definitely difficult. I got 24 bars of the oyumaru for $10 so that was a steal, and I can use the 2 part resin I have with a silicon rubber mold once I buy that junk so that's not a total loss either. I'm really interested in the silicon rubber two part molds and found a very good tutorial online but it's explicitly for liquid blue stuff and I can only find this stuff online at the original UK sellers site. I'd like to find a generic variant in the US however so I can try to avoid shipping, but I haven't found anything as of yet. To be frank, I'm not totally sure what I'm looking for in this instance because it seems like there's a few options to go with chemically but I'm not sure what the differences are between each product. As you mentioned there's a silicon caulk which is something I wasn't even sure was in the same ballpark. Caulk is usually very thick isn't it? Anyway, most of the Amazon postings I've found are upwards of $100 just for the liquid silicone/rubber, and that's a bit much for me right now. I'm also looking at airbrushes too and that alone is at least $250 to get started with a good airbrush and compressor from cursory recommendations. I managed to get an airbrush for free that's 15 years old so I can hold off on that purchase to see if I really enjoy it, but that still leaves me on the hook for the compressor and oof.
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Sep 11, 2019 01:21
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Pastry Mistakes posted:Honestly I want it for both bits and full models. I love DIY stuff and am an old crotchety man at heart who would prefer to be able to do everything himself. If I could get modeling software like whatever GW/Forgeworld/etc use I would begin making my own space barbies in a heartbeat. As a first step I figure casting is a good test of skill. https://spraygunner.com/skyline-airbrush-compressor-by-no-name-brand/ I have the big no-name compressor and I love it. This is pretty affordable for what you get.
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Sep 11, 2019 01:55
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OOMOO two part silicone mold stuff has a shelf life of only a year or so which can be annoying. For using silicone caulk it is thinned a bit by using mineral spirits although it still doesn't end up quite as pourable as the two part stuff. Milliput (or Apoxie sculpt which I use) + green stuff is a good mix when you want more stiffness than just green stuff. The firmer epoxy doesn't pick up detail as well so more green stuff offsets that.
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Sep 11, 2019 02:42
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 First character model for my 30k Thousand Sons. If I was ever on the fence, I'm sold - contrast paints made painting the armour and trim so insanely simple that I can't imagine doing these colours differently moving forwards. Otherwise, I'm happy enough to share it where everyone can see!
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Sep 11, 2019 03:45
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Pastry Mistakes posted:Honestly I want it for both bits and full models. I love DIY stuff and am an old crotchety man at heart who would prefer to be able to do everything himself. If I could get modeling software like whatever GW/Forgeworld/etc use I would begin making my own space barbies in a heartbeat. As a first step I figure casting is a good test of skill. If you want to get into digital sculpting, I think Blender lets you export STL files for 3D printing your masters.
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Sep 11, 2019 04:21
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Finished putting together a couple squads of Grey Knights Paladins converted from Stormcast Paladins. Wasn’t a fan of the proportions on the terminators. Luckily they cost a ton of points, because carving up all those stormbolters was getting exhausting. Still need to drape them in doodads and skulls. The Paladin kit has an obnoxious number of parts per model but it does make reposing them pretty easy. 
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Sep 11, 2019 06:40
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IshmaelZarkov posted:
It sort of looks like you did a candy coat on the armor. Did you put a red contrast over a metallic base? Looks great!
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Sep 11, 2019 07:33
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:It sort of looks like you did a candy coat on the armor. Did you put a red contrast over a metallic base? Thanks! Yup. I sprayed everything with leadbecher, drybrushed runefang, did all the gold in Sycorax Bronze, then hit the panels with Fleshtearer contrast and the nronze with Darkoath flesh. Easiest red and gold I've ever done.
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Sep 11, 2019 07:55
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Nice. I've done candy coats on other projects the traditional way with true transparent paints over metallic, but it good to know you can do the same with the new contrasts.
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Sep 11, 2019 07:58
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Nice. I've done candy coats on other projects the traditional way with true transparent paints over metallic, but it good to know you can do the same with the new contrasts. Yeah it also makes for some fascinatingly simple Alpha Legion (considering what it took before to get the blue/green shimmery metallic effect).
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Sep 11, 2019 18:47
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Mugaaz posted:It is from the paint drying in the air before it hits the model. Spraying from too far away, high air temp, old can drying out, etc. Paints that use large thick pigments like white are the worst. Oooh, distance sounds like a definite factor here. I had put the part in a cardboard box to spray it, and since the box was on the floor, there were some awkward angles involved. Sounds like the mystery is solved, then. Lesson learned, don't spray old paint from too far away 
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Sep 11, 2019 19:47
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I finished up my (magnitized) Invictor, it was quite fun to paint. I might even be able to get a game in with it this weekend as the Salamanders are easy enough to transport even with injury restrictions.   
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Sep 12, 2019 02:04
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Will plastic glue melt through paint? I've been dumb trying to do my intercessors in batches and I feel like I've hosed up
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Sep 12, 2019 05:14
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JBP posted:Will plastic glue melt through paint? I've been dumb trying to do my intercessors in batches and I feel like I've hosed up No you should scrape off the paint on the points of contact as that holds better. Also go light with it, it might cause it to frost.
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Sep 12, 2019 05:36
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JBP posted:Will plastic glue melt through paint? I've been dumb trying to do my intercessors in batches and I feel like I've hosed up Just use super glue
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Sep 12, 2019 06:39
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Mugaaz posted:Just use super glue Then the weakest part of the bond is the paint to the plastic, meaning it'll probably break off and take more paint with it. CA glue also has a better chance of fogging.
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Sep 12, 2019 07:04
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Yeah I thought superglue would fog from memory. I'll try to scrape and carefully apply. I'm not going to try this sub assembly on troop units again it's a loving nightmare.
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Sep 12, 2019 07:11
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Subassembly can work on some types of model sprues, but never GW stuff that I’ve seen. Too many gates everywhere to be worth it.
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Sep 12, 2019 08:15
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I do subassemblies all the time. Plastic glue works great for me.
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Sep 12, 2019 11:39
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I do nothing but subassemblies and sticking the various pieces on the ends of sprue sticks with super glue works great.
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Sep 12, 2019 11:46
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Cooked Auto posted:I do nothing but subassemblies and sticking the various pieces on the ends of sprue sticks with super glue works great. I was trying this but I hosed it up I think. I'm sure it will be fine. I did a perfectly good dusty leather cloak for my Primaris chaplain today and then went over it with black because I'm a critical idiot.
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Sep 12, 2019 11:57
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JBP posted:I was trying this but I hosed it up I think. I'm sure it will be fine. I did a perfectly good dusty leather cloak for my Primaris chaplain today and then went over it with black because I'm a critical idiot. It can be finicky at times and sorta depends on the amount of contact area and if there's any glue left on the sprue. Applying some pressure until the glue dries up a bit helps in a lot of cases. Also ouch.
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Sep 12, 2019 12:07
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Not nearly as good as most of the stuff here, but I'm quite happy with my Not Troll because it's the first time I picked the colors myself (instead of relying on some tutorial) after looking at some reference material (I wanted bright green colors so I looked at a bunch of gecko pictures). I kind of screwed up the dry-brushing on the stone though. I also experimented with getting the head a little lighter so it kind of "pops up" more. And I put some glossy varnish on the yellow puss, pretty happy about how positively disgusting it looks. (sorry for bad quality picture)  Since the picture was taken I added some little stones at his feet so it looks like some bits of the statue fell to the ground.
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Sep 12, 2019 13:41
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Pastry Mistakes posted:Casting If you're willing to invest time into something, start looking at resin SLA printers. You can find print files on Thingiverse which will save you some time.
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Sep 12, 2019 13:42
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Your words are garbage, but your mini is fantastic. Don't belittle yourself! Everyone has a different current skill level, but remember skill is a continuous distribution so everyone better than you was worse than you at some time.
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Sep 12, 2019 13:47
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JBP posted:Will plastic glue melt through paint? I've been dumb trying to do my intercessors in batches and I feel like I've hosed up Yes but it's more likely to make a mess than anything else.
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Sep 12, 2019 20:46
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It also creates a weaker bond than clean plastic to plastic.
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Sep 12, 2019 21:00
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Warning: long, rambling post ahead... I've been working to get the Blood Angels Tactical Squad done, and at this point I think all have left to do is the red edge-highlighting, the rest of the metallics (which also need to be shaded), and the eyes. After that, I think I can probably declare them done, base them and move on. The one thing that I've been looking forward to this year is the release of the Sisters of Battle (which are coming in November  ). However, after the Blood Angels, I still have a few more kits that I've bought which I need to work on. I got a box of Start Collecting Skitarii that I've got mostly assembled (save for maybe one ranger and the Dunecrawler), a unopened box of Mark III Space Marines, and the Sister Superior they started selling a couple months backs. Right now, I feel frustrated, because I'm not super happy with how I think the Blood Angels are going to turn out, and I foresee there being difficulty with trying to paint stuff like the Sister Superior and the Tech Priest, because of how tiny and numerous a lot of the details are. If you say that I just need to take a break, I'd agree with you, but I feel like part of my issue is that I've procrastinated a lot instead of spending time painting. Yet, when I consider it like that, it makes me feel like I'm treating it more like work, and I'm not really enjoying it. I'm trying to think of some way I could make things easier and more fun. I don't know what the consensus is on contrasts now that they've been out for a few months, but I was thinking maybe that I should invest in some more of the contrast colors, since they seem to work pretty well. I've thought about an airbrush, but the issue I have with getting an airbrush is that it seems like there's another layer of stress when it comes to cost and upkeep. That said, I wonder if it might be a good investment, since it would allow me to prime when the weather is bad, and getting the basecoat down quickly. I also, for whatever reason, have a lot of fun when priming/spraying things with a rattlecan, so I might have a lot of fun with an airbrush. Still, I'm very on the fence about it. When I've brought it up to people, they mentioned getting an airbrush from Harbor Freight, but I don't know if they have ones meant for mini painting. The one thing I've found to be aggravating at this stage is doing the edge highlighting. I'll have to upload some more recent pictures, but the edge highlighting I've done is sort of spotty in places; some of it is okay, some of it is too heavy, and some I just didn't really bother with, because it seemed really annoying. I think one issue might be that I'm working with red, which is one of the harder colors to work with. Despite the fact that there's several armies I want to do that incorporate red (Blood Angels, Forge World Mars Mechanicus, Word Bearers, Heresy-era Thousand Sons, Khorne Berserkers, etc.) I think I might benefit from working with an easier color, like blue, or green (though I sort of want to do the Mark III Marines in Imperial Fist colors  ). Again, that's where contrast paint seems like they'd be useful.With all that in mind, I wonder if maybe the issue is that I'm trying too hard, and I get myself frustrated. Mind you, I'm not aiming to win a Golden Demon or anything (hell, I don't even play the tabletop games, so I'm not worried about complaints about my armies being unpainted). I just wanted to paint some stuff up, and maybe make some dioramas or something. I want it to look nice and detailed, but I'm not shooting for 'Eavy Metal-level quality. Short version: Feel somewhat burned out, but still want to buy SOBs when they launch in November. Trying to think of ways to make paintiing easier/more fun. Considered buying more contrasts paints and/or an airbrush. My issues might be that I'm working with difficult colors or that I'm obsessed with the minis not looking perfect. Please let me know if something I said doesn't make sense. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Sep 13, 2019 |
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Sep 13, 2019 04:36
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It sounds like you think/hope you'll enjoy painting more when you've improved your techniques, but if you don't enjoy it now, spending the time to improve is probably going to be a real slog. It might be worth trying to paint some different kinds of stuff entirely (e.g. actual scale models or Gunpla or something) to see if that's more your speed. Hell, with Gunpla, you can get decent-looking models with just some panel liner (though you can obviously go crazy with painting too), and I've heard a lot of good things about how the kits are designed. Still, if the process of painting is stressful and not fun, you've gotta ask yourself if you really want to spend your free time doing it in the hopes that you'll have more fun one day.
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Sep 13, 2019 06:35
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You'll have more fun if you're airbrushing on smooth bases with a bit of shading. I don't enjoy painting big panels and stuff like marine armour by brush. You're going to have wonderful paint jobs if you keep your paints thin and just work on being clean. Crisp painting is always going to satisfy and you won't feel like you're loving up if you just get clean, thin paints on your models. I feel like this all the time so don't stress it. Some of my masterwork models made me want to strip them half way but if your paint is thin and your colours are clean you're always going to love the result and thin paints mean you can always fix things or add fancy layers later.
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Sep 13, 2019 06:42
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