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Dr. Habibi posted:I’ve followed up scraping glue with Zissner Gardz Problem Area sealer, which smells awful but works fantastically with only one coat (at least on plaster that was wallpapered). Provided, you’ve got to get most of the glue off first, but this stuff makes it so you don’t have to kill yourself scraping. Any sealer worth its price that actually works is basically going to be canned VOC held together by a California Prop 65 base. Make sure you have all the windows open in the whole house and several fans going as you use it. Consider if a respirator would be useful - make sure it is rated for the chemical you're using. Improper ones can cause you more problems than nothing at all.
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Sep 11, 2019 17:50
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Never used Gardz personally but it's got a hell of a good reputation in the industry for that use. Also great if any of the wallpaper took some of the drywall paper with it to prevent bubbling in those areas. Can't speak to the odor but it's water-based so it can't be that bad.
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Sep 11, 2019 18:17
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H110Hawk posted:Any sealer worth its price that actually works is basically going to be canned VOC held together by a California Prop 65 base. Make sure you have all the windows open in the whole house and several fans going as you use it. Consider if a respirator would be useful - make sure it is rated for the chemical you're using. Improper ones can cause you more problems than nothing at all. Yeah, I heartily recommend a respirator *and* all the windows open. It’s not going to be pretty otherwise.
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Sep 11, 2019 20:46
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Motronic posted:the standard answer I've given many times before it don't bother taking any of the paper off, just throw up 1/4" drywall. Yeah, I posted this on the design thread.. this is a small sample of the wallpaper under the brick veneer in my 'new' kitchen:  I'm assuming that's original from 1970, so the two walls in the kitchen that don't have cabinets or appliances and therefore likely won't be torn down to studs are getting the old 1/4" drywall treatment.
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Sep 11, 2019 23:54
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Obviously the only move here is to take that fake brick off and repair that awesome paper. You may need to put in wainscoting so you can use the paper down there to have enough to repair the top.
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Sep 12, 2019 00:05
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Motronic posted:Obviously the only move here is to take that fake brick off and repair that awesome paper. This should be required by some bylaw.
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Sep 12, 2019 00:19
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I can post pics tomorrow. I got the water filter thing worked out thanks to your advice, and I realized I could fit my portable dishwasher under the sink. Thing is, I can't get it the dishwasher door open. It's like 1/2 an inch too big for the cabinet. My options seem to be: 1) Forget about it. 2) Ask permission from the landlord to make the opening bigger. 3) Modify the dishwasher somehow. 4) Don't ask permission and shave off part of the opening. The latter 3 don't feel like good ideas at this time. Edit: The washer door is about 21.66 inches wide but the cabinet opening is about 20.88 inches wide. RandomPauI fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Sep 12, 2019 |
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Sep 12, 2019 10:11
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Thanks for all the suggestions, because it does appear to be unfinished drywall underneath the wallpaper, its a huge bitch to remove. Tried a few more methods to get the wall smooth, but even with a plastic scraper, it seems really easy to accidentally start damaging the drywall paper when trying to remove the leftover glue. Not surprised considering the other renovations to their place done before they moved in have universally been horribly thought out. My friend insisted on just getting a professional to look at it which is probably the best option since we both thought it would be a lot easier than this.
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Sep 12, 2019 17:11
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 I'm going to be tiling a kitchen backsplash this week. Wifeboss couldn't be talked into a dark grout, and wants white. I'm considering an epoxy grout, but I've never worked with it before (I've done about 900 sqft of floors in my house though). Any thoughts on that? Or can I get away with using an unsanded regular grout and just sealing it like crazy? I'm also worried that the tiles will look dumb unless I cut them in a straight line at the edges. The gap looks teeny between the tiles, and I think those big scallops at the edges will look bad if full of grout.
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Sep 12, 2019 18:33
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canyoneer posted:I'm also worried that the tiles will look dumb unless I cut them in a straight line at the edges. The gap looks teeny between the tiles, and I think those big scallops at the edges will look bad if full of grout. You need to end on a half tile - that's never going to look right as it sits.
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Sep 12, 2019 18:41
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Motronic posted:Obviously the only move here is to take that fake brick off and repair that awesome paper. Alas, the bottom half is paint, the wallpaper is only the upper half of the wall if this thin section is to be believed:  Right at the bottom you can see where the paint starts.
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Sep 12, 2019 21:11
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canyoneer posted:Wifeboss couldn't be talked into a dark grout, and wants white. That's a shame, I think it looks really nice as laid out there.
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Sep 12, 2019 22:14
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Just gonna necro this from February since I was way behind on this thread and 3 people were asking about it - Necroing this post. I discovered today that the problem is not the bulbs but the circuit powering the bulbs. The opener doesn't work even with no bulbs installed, but as soon as I push the button to manually turn off the lights the remotes work again. I'm guessing that there's a bad relay or something on the board that is causing the interference. Doesn't really matter what exactly it is at this point though. Because I've narrowed it down to a problem internal to the opener, and the opener is a 1980's SEARS model, my choices appear to be either manually turn off the lights every time I open the door, or replace the opener. How hard is it to swap out an opener? Is this something I can do myself easily or should I be calling a professional?
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Sep 13, 2019 15:34
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If you stick with the same manufacturer, it can go really quick as you can reuse the rail, chain, door hardware and sensors, plus you probably won't need to adjust the ceiling mount. If you don't, it will take a couple hours, but it can be done. Sears always contracted out their appliances. You might be able to find out which company actually made it.
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Sep 13, 2019 17:56
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The drywall lift photo from a couple pages back got me thinking, the idiots who flipped out house and made everything look nice but of course did everything wrong, one thing they did was mount all the drywall I assume with a nailgun. So here and there you see these nails getting pushed back out through the drywall I assume just because the wood expands from heat and pushes them downward. Is the proper thing to do just pull them out and put a drywall screw in the same hole, or should I make a new hole nearby? I'm assuming there's also glue on the joists and none of these sheets are in danger of falling down just because a few nails pop out here and there, or should I be more concerned? We've been there 2.5 years so far and the only stuff that's fallen are little pieces where the nails push out. Edit: I should clarify the only room they're actually pushing through in is the master bedroom which is the only one with a cathedral ceiling so they're at an angle, if that matters. davebo fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Sep 13, 2019 |
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Sep 13, 2019 18:12
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drywall is not glued to the framing.
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Sep 13, 2019 18:40
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Qwijib0 posted:drywall is not glued to the framing. Well that'll teach me to check wikihow before asking a question. it said put drywall adhesive on the joists first.
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Sep 13, 2019 18:46
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is the drywall sagging? They might of just used the nail gun as a temporary hold so they could screw in proper drywall screws.
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Sep 13, 2019 18:49
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Qwijib0 posted:drywall is not glued to the framing. Look up "dot and dab". davebo posted:The drywall lift photo from a couple pages back got me thinking, the idiots who flipped out house and made everything look nice but of course did everything wrong, one thing they did was mount all the drywall I assume with a nailgun. So here and there you see these nails getting pushed back out through the drywall I assume just because the wood expands from heat and pushes them downward. Is the proper thing to do just pull them out and put a drywall screw in the same hole, or should I make a new hole nearby? I'm assuming there's also glue on the joists and none of these sheets are in danger of falling down just because a few nails pop out here and there, or should I be more concerned? We've been there 2.5 years so far and the only stuff that's fallen are little pieces where the nails push out. Nail pops are pretty common with drywall. It usually takes decades, but I've seen it happen in only a few years. It could just be a bad nail, the stud cracked weird, etc. Pull the nail out and sink a drywall screw like 2 inches away into the same stud/joist. Dimple the screw. They make special bits for this. By the way, if your house is older, expect for this to be a bigger job than one nail. The drywall can sag when the nail comes loose from the stud. If you screw that drywall back down to the stud, it's possible that you'll pop that nail's neighbor on that stud and need to fix it too, and his neighbor, etc. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Sep 13, 2019 |
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Sep 13, 2019 18:50
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Qwijib0 posted:drywall is not glued to the framing. That’s what I thought too until a construction guy claimed to me that it’s actually code here to glue and screw drywall. This is in Iowa.
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Sep 13, 2019 18:53
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JEEVES420 posted:is the drywall sagging? They might of just used the nail gun as a temporary hold so they could screw in proper drywall screws. kid sinister posted:Nail pops are pretty common with drywall. It usually takes decades, but I've seen it happen in only a few years. It could just be a bad nail, the stud cracked weird, etc. Pull the nail out and sink a drywall screw like 2 inches away into the same stud/joist. Dimple the screw. They make special bits for this. Thanks. It's not just along one joist but throughout the room, although more along one half than the other. I'll just put new screws in nearby to be safe then take out the offending nails and patch up as needed, then repeat the process every couple of years until I die.
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Sep 13, 2019 18:55
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davebo posted:repeat the process every couple of years until I die. and are then revived at 10% health!
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Sep 13, 2019 18:59
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davebo posted:Thanks. It's not just along one joist but throughout the room, although more along one half than the other. I'll just put new screws in nearby to be safe then take out the offending nails and patch up as needed, then repeat the process every couple of years until I die. Good idea. Screwing down the drywall first makes the nail stick out as far as it can, so you can grip it easier. The good news is that they're already loose. I've had pretty good luck grabbing it with needlenose pliers straight in, then pulling and twisting. You shouldn't damage the drywall too much, plus you'll be patching it anyway.
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Sep 13, 2019 19:03
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kid sinister posted:If you stick with the same manufacturer, it can go really quick as you can reuse the rail, chain, door hardware and sensors, plus you probably won't need to adjust the ceiling mount. If you don't, it will take a couple hours, but it can be done. Sears always contracted out their appliances. You might be able to find out which company actually made it. It's a Liftmaster / Chamberlain I'd upgrade to something with modern safety features. Liftmaster stopped making parts for openers without electric eyes.
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Sep 13, 2019 19:16
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How difficult is it to make a window screen for a vinyl window using one of those kits from a hardware store? For a sliding glass door? I feel like I can muddle my way through the window one but the slider might be too much to do well? There is some company out here that charges 200 bucks for the sliding glass door screen plus 80 for the house call.
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Sep 13, 2019 22:54
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kid sinister posted:Look up "dot and dab". Dot and dab isn't used on framing, it's used on brick and blockwork.
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Sep 13, 2019 23:25
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Regardless of terminology, gluing drywall to wooden studs is definitely a reasonably common thing, especially on ceilings. And it makes demo really, really suck.
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Sep 14, 2019 02:08
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Charles posted:It's a Liftmaster / Chamberlain I bet you'd still be able to reuse the rail, chain, traveler and door parts. Use the eyes what come with the new kit. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Sep 14, 2019 |
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Sep 14, 2019 03:22
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canyoneer posted:I'm going to be tiling a kitchen backsplash this week. Wifeboss couldn't be talked into a dark grout, and wants white. I'm considering an epoxy grout, but I've never worked with it before (I've done about 900 sqft of floors in my house though). Any thoughts on that? Or can I get away with using an unsanded regular grout and just sealing it like crazy? Ugh, I feel like there's no point in using white scalloped tiles if you're going to use white grout along with them. If the design isn't going to pop out at you, what's the point in using them?
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Sep 14, 2019 03:59
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Jaded Burnout posted:Dot and dab isn't used on framing, it's used on brick and blockwork. Not by my ex-brother-in-law. We called his lake property, "The House 'o' Defects." He uses the phrase, "Glue and Screw" all the time. It'd be funnier if I wasn't called on, regularly & on the QT, to un-gently caress his 'repairs' at my sister's house. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Sep 14, 2019 |
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Sep 14, 2019 04:08
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kid sinister posted:I bet you'd still be able to reuse the rail, chain, traveler and door parts. Use the eyes what come with the new kit. Oh yeah you can I'm quite sure, I know my dad has done that.
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Sep 14, 2019 04:34
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canyoneer posted:
Dark grouts highlight any fuckups. If you’re doing it yourself I’d highly recommend a lighter color grout. I wouldn’t go pure white. Go with an off white or even a light grey and you’ll be good to go. Don’t do epoxy. It’s way too easy to gently caress up. There’s a half way point that I’d recommend, go with mapei ultra color, laticrete permacolor, or custom prism grout. It’s more stain resistant than regular grout but way easier to install and work with. For what it’s worth I work for a tile company and have access for free to pretty much any product I want and this is the type of grout I used in my own home. Personally I’d start with a cut, I think it would look cleaner. If you want, the easiest thing would to take a small piece of drywall or something and do a mock-up to see what you like better.
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Sep 14, 2019 15:26
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Home A/C Compressor. We have a fairly old compressor and Nest Thermostat. We noticed, after a $300 electric bill, that our AC had been staying on way more than normal the past few days. It's been hot - about 95 - degrees, but the house just isn't cooling as it has even in the past (this year) with those same temps. I had the Compressor capacitor replaced a few years ago. So I get the bright idea to clean the compressor. There's a lot of debris inside around the coils and stuff and it's fairly dirty outside. It's completely clear of any obstructions *around* it. So we get it cleaned out. Very light spray some water inside and out. Rebolt the fan. The fan is hard wired so no removing it. I switch both inside and outside breakers back on and start up the AC. Well the blowers blowing but I notice that, even after 10 or 15 minutes, the compressor hasn't turned back on. Or at least the fan hasn't. When I'm outside and turn on the AC remotely (thanks Nest!) I hear a *click* like it's trying to power the compressor on but the fan never turns on. Did I break it? I mean we just lifted up the fan/grate and cleaned out underneath it. Didn't really put too much stress on the fan part itself. Edit: NM. The lovely outside breaker had to be pressed up harder. At which point it sparked. Getting that poo poo replaced Monday. Whether the air is gonna be cold is still up in the air Edit 2: Of course we figure this out on a Sunday and there's nowhere open to get one of these. Why don't Lowes/Home Depot carry these?? BonoMan fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Sep 15, 2019 |
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Sep 15, 2019 01:54
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Do you mean "disconnect"? A disconnect provides a method for disconnecting both power wires from an appliance. Sometimes if there is no breaker panel on a service, the disconnect has fuses inside and is known as a "fused disconnect". You only need one method of cutting power on a circuit, be it breakers or fuses.
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Sep 15, 2019 06:28
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kid sinister posted:Do you mean "disconnect"? A disconnect provides a method for disconnecting both power wires from an appliance. Sometimes if there is no breaker panel on a service, the disconnect has fuses inside and is known as a "fused disconnect". You only need one method of cutting power on a circuit, be it breakers or fuses. No there's a legit breaker outside (your standard big breaker switch... Not the pull and remove disconnects) and also a breaker for it on the inside panel. P sure it's not set up right like everything else in this lovely house.
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Sep 15, 2019 06:33
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BonoMan posted:No there's a legit breaker outside (your standard big breaker switch... Not the pull and remove disconnects) and also a breaker for it on the inside panel. P sure it's not set up right like everything else in this lovely house. Subpanels are perfectly OK. In your case with 1 breaker feeding 1 circuit at that subpanel, the subpanel is really superfluous. Still, if you have to press the little breaker lever to make contact, then that little breaker really needs to be replaced.
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Sep 15, 2019 07:09
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The outside disconnect (assuming proper over-current protection in your panel) is just so people can safely work on the condenser unit. The outdoor disconnect may have a breaker, but there are also disconnects with a "dummy" breaker that has no over-current protection. It will not be marked with an amp rating. Either way, you could shut off power to it in your home panel and temporarily bypass it if it's the problem. Wire-nut the line/loads together or land them under a common lug.
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Sep 15, 2019 14:56
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AFewBricksShy posted:Dark grouts highlight any fuckups. If you’re doing it yourself I’d highly recommend a lighter color grout. Seconding Laticrete grout with the sealant already mixed in. Laticrete makes good poo poo.
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Sep 16, 2019 03:56
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kid sinister posted:Subpanels are perfectly OK. In your case with 1 breaker feeding 1 circuit at that subpanel, the subpanel is really superfluous. Still, if you have to press the little breaker lever to make contact, then that little breaker really needs to be replaced. An outdoor disconnect, also with electric outlets nearby (often part of the same box), is actually code where I live.
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Sep 16, 2019 05:03
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Charles posted:An outdoor disconnect, also with electric outlets nearby (often part of the same box), is actually code where I live. Yeah it's code most places I think. Ours is definitely miswired as, a few years ago, I was having the capacitor replaced and the guy flipped the breaker outside and started to work on it and almost killed himself. Because it somehow has something bypassing it and was still getting electricity. Or, as I had to really force it up to reinstate power, maybe he needed to really force it down to kill the power. Either way I had to kill it on the internal breaker to really kill the power to it. This thing is a loving death trap and I'm getting it replaced ASAP. Also I'm going to take a picture of it later so you guys can  at it.
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Sep 16, 2019 14:44
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