|
The one that always worries me is what to do about resin dust after I've sanded it. Like yeah a face mask is fine when you're doing the sanding, but presumably the stuff you'd actually inhale is small enough to float around your home for a while.
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:13 |
|
|
Ideally you would be working in a space that had big suction fans
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:05
|
|
|
Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Out of interest, do you have anything on in the background, podcasts, youtube etc while painting? Something to listen to makes painting extremely relaxing for me, without it I don't enjoy painting much at all. It's something to do with Flow State. I paint in total silence most of the time but I'm also a psycho that drives without the radio on. I like quiet.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:05
|
|
|
Ignite Memories posted:Ideally you would be working in a space that had big suction fans Yes, well, I don't. Though in practice, I'm almost never using anything more abrasive than a jeweler's file, so maybe the dust isn't even a major issue. That said, I should probably be more diligent with my respirator when I'm using solvents and such. Mr. Dissolved Putty is probably not good for me, and I occasionally don't grab the respirator if I'm just using it for "a second". Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Sep 13, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:10
|
|
|
I do try to avoid my wash intake since that stuff is a guaranteed one way ticket in the opposite direction of flavor country.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:21
|
|
|
Often, when the weather is lovely or it's windy, I prime my models in my pretty large shed. Always just one or two at a time, so it takes only a minute, but the smell is pretty strong. I get in, prime my minis, and get out. No ventilation other than the open door. Is that unhealthy and should I stop doing that? It's like once every two weeks or so (I don't paint much nowadays) On the other hand, I'm a smoker, so however bad it is it'll probably pale in comparison to that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:25
|
|
|
Another issue I have is that since I have a beard, no half-mask is ever going to make a proper seal. While a mask is still better than nothing, I'm not sure how much I'm opening myself up to problems in the long run...
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:34
|
|
|
Gumdrop Larry posted:I do try to avoid my wash intake since that stuff is a guaranteed one way ticket in the opposite direction of flavor country. enough with all this health talk, what's the tastiest paint 
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:39
|
|
|
Embrace death, nerds
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:44
|
|
|
TheBigAristotle posted:enough with all this health talk, what's the tastiest paint
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:48
|
|
|
Yeah wow I guess painting is actually extremely dangerous and I’m going to die young. gently caress
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:52
|
|
|
Nerd cemetery is going to be a Superfund site.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 23:56
|
|
|
Hixson posted:Yeah wow I guess painting is actually extremely dangerous and I’m going to die young. gently caress it killed Bob Ross 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 00:10
|
|
|
If you're not painting a lot and normally do the safe thing you are going to be completely fine. Being a lazy goon once in a while might give you a headache but that's about it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 00:34
|
|
|
Endman posted:Don't be so neurotic. Paint dudes. Take pics of dudes. Post pics of dudes. I'm gonna make me one of those old-style motivational pictures like you'd expect to find in an old lady's country home except saying "paint your loving poo poo" among hearts and roses  TheBigAristotle posted:it killed Bob Ross 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 00:51
|
|
|
 Before the perm.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 01:16
|
|
|
Why not just get one of these to keep your brushwater cup off your desk? 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 02:18
|
|
|
I get bad sinus stuff and my rinocort spray broke down once, I was moments from loading it into my airbrush when I found an old spray thing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 02:44
|
|
|
Wow, I didn't expect to get that many responses.Yeast posted:- How long have you been in the hobby? Going by when I first started posting in this thread, I started around June/July last year, so I've only really been doing it for a year. In that time, I've done a few sets of minis (in terms of individual minis, there's maybe around 35 or so infantry minis, and a Primaris Dreadnought). I imagine in the grand scheme of miniature work, that's barely anything, so I still have a long way to go before I hit the level of <insert name of painter in the thread who's work you like/think is really good here>. berzerkmonkey posted:Airbrushing will certainly take the pain out of basecoating an entire army, though as you stated, there is upkeep on the brush. However, you're going to be saving a ton of time when you get the process down. I have heard that that contrast does not work well with large, flat surfaces, but I thought maybe it would be helpful with something like the Skitarii or possibly the Sisters of Battle when they come out, at least with some of the small, complicated details. In regards to the comment on red, what I was told was that two of the hardest colors to paint or work with were yellow and red, the reason being due to the pigmentation or something. (i.e. it wold take twice as many coats of yellow to cover properly versus green or blue.) Mugaaz posted:Edge highlighting sucks balls and will always be that way. No one finds edge highlighting fun. The chance of laying down all the edge highlights in one go where all of the lines are thin and uniform is around 0%. If you want them to be perfect there is going to be a lot of correcting going on. Edge highlighting is one of the more time consuming and stressful techniques. I loving hate doing it, but its really needed on some stuff. berzerkmonkey posted:One of the things you mention is that you're really hating is edge highlighting, so here's a hot take: just don't do it. If you hate it that much, don't bother. Do your shading and some highlighting and call it a day. Your BAs will look more than tabletop ready, so don't kill yourself doing something you hate. Bonus tip: once you start airbrushing, do some preshading/zenthal highlighting and edge highlighting will be superfluous. One thing I have done to make it easier on myself it to not try to edge highlight everything, but the stuff towards the top (where the light hits it), and leaving the stuff down below or without real hard edges alone (which I think is how you're supposed to do it anyway, but I use that as a justification to do fewer highlights). One trick I picked up on from watching tutorial videos last night is that when you do the joints on the power armor, rather than painting it black and highlighting it with a dark grey, you could instead paint it grey, and then shade it with a black wash. SiKboy posted:I'm similar in that I am painting miniatures for games that I dont play. I've been back in the hobby for... Probably between 18 months to maybe 2 years, after a long time away (used to play 40K starting in Rogue Trader era, gave it up around the dying days of 2nd edition, when it had become painfully obvious that they were never releasing a codex: squats (I had moved on to chaos by then, but still...). Played/collected a bunch of other miniature games too back in the day). I am also shooting for "good tabletop" standard, and hoping to get better than I go. I occasionally paint something I'm very happy with, but as soon as I take a picture of it the camera highlights all the flaws I hadn't previously noticed. It makes me feel better to hear that I'm not alone in regards to dropping a project for a month or so, as I've done that a few times. There are previous minis that I look at and realize are missing details or some other thing, and I think about trying to fix them, but I decide to just leave them as is (though in some cases, there's parts that are just straight up unpainted, since I didn't have the color.) I have thought about switching gears to another project. Last weekend my plan was to take a break from the Blood Angels and start putting together the Mark III Marines, but I realized I needed to get a new respirator, which meant running out to the store to get one. Later, though, it started raining, and I like to both wear the mask and have some ventilation when it comes to doing the construction (since I'm using the Tamiya Extra Thin). I've also thought about breaking away by working on terrain as well, and I've got some various stuff to do that with already.. In addition, I've been really tempted to get a Rhino Transport lately, since apart from wanting to do a some kind of tank or vehicle for a while now, the big, blocky design looks like it would make for a nice break from working with the tiny details on infantry models. It's also another reason why I've thought about an airbrush, as if you could find or make a stencil pattern, you use it with an airbrush to do some really cool designs on a tank. (I also want a Rhino so I can hold it up and do the 'METAL BAWKSES' line from Soulstorm)
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 05:11
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:The one that always worries me is what to do about resin dust after I've sanded it. Like yeah a face mask is fine when you're doing the sanding, but presumably the stuff you'd actually inhale is small enough to float around your home for a while. You could always wet file/sand things, bit more clean up but would handle some of the smaller bits
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 09:06
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:It makes me feel better to hear that I'm not alone in regards to dropping a project for a month or so, as I've done that a few times. Months? My dude, I have models here that I put on an undercoat, with zenithal highlighting (admittedly the airbrush free poor mans version using rattlecans), over a year ago that still have never felt the touch of a brush. I've literally just moved a few of them to my painting table last night in the hope that I eventually actually y'know, paint them. (A big winged monster dude from shadow of brimstone, a firegut growler from Vor and Krong the Mighty from superfigs. As I say, I'm not playing the games anyway so a lot of what I paint is just what I liked the look of and could get cheap. Or stuff I didnt sell off when I dropped off the hobby the last time). Don't sweat months. As I say, I enjoy painting, even when I gently caress it up a bit I stil find it overall relaxing, but it does require a certain level of concentration. There are whole weeks when I come in from work, look at my painting stuff and just shake my head because I'm too knackered for any kind of precision. Also, I should maybe mention, the Firegut Growler and Superfigs model have both been sitting in a box in my mums attic for almost 2 decades before being undercoated, if that makes you feel better about models sitting for months. Generally speaking, once I varnish a model, its done. If I notice any flaws/unpainted bits before varnishing, I fix them. But you could easily spend the rest of your life constantly going back and picking up bits you arent happy with on the same 10 models over and over. Once you look at it and think "Yeah, that looks good", call it done and walk away. No one else in the whole world will ever look at the miniatures you have painted as closely as you do, so a lot of flaws arent realistically a big deal at all. Obviously this is not the case if you are wanting to win a painting competition, but if you were wanting to win competitions you shouldnt be taking advice from me in the first place. If you are currently burned out on painting little army mens, I really would recommend building/painting some terrain for the little army mens to hide behind/stand on/pose near. The tank could work too, I bought a 1:48 scale KV-2 tank off aliexpress that this very thread recommended as being about 28mm scale so I could give vehicle building/painting a go without paying games workshop prices. Have not built it yet because the tank tread looks fiddly as gently caress, but I will when the mood takes me. Either one will be more forgiving than doing troops, and a welcome change if you are just sick and tired of painting the same uniform over and over. If you are looking for terrain inspiration, I would heartily recommend The Terrain Tutor on youtube, and Lukes APS. Both are terrain wizards whose primary focus is on making the best looking terrain on a budget and without using too many specialist tools. Most of their stuff is done with materials and equipment from hardware stores and pound shops. They are both also very upfront about when they gently caress up something while making a piece, showing you what they did wrong and how they fixed it. Miscast terrain is far less prolific as a youtuber, but he has some great quick and easy terrain projects, including printable guides you can just glue on foamboard and then cut out the pieces. I cant speak to the airbrush, I dont have one. I'm personally wary of ever recommending someone in a hobby slump spend a significant amount of money on that same hobby in case they do, it doesnt help, and now their slump feels worse to them because they are in the same slump with the added feeling of "Well, that was a waste of money. Never even used the drat thing.". I do think it would be the easier way of doing vehicles absolutely, but for me personally as I'm not building an army of guys all wearing the same colour armour I feel like it would be of limited use. A lot of people who use them swear by them but I am still trying to get better with a brush, I might look at an airbrush when I'm happy with my regular brushwork. But thats me. You know you better, if you think using one looks fun, and the novelty of learning to use it will help you, then fill your boots!
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 11:28
|
|
|
Airbrushes can have a really steep learning curve and have you feeling super frustrated, I really struggled the first couple of months I was using mine. I definitely had a couple of hobby sessions just taken up by maintenance and cleaning. They can be super rewarding though but just be aware that you're not going to get super amazing results straight out of the gate. I found gunpla a nice refreshing change of pace when I get frustrated with other forms of modelling. Community (as seen in this really lovely series of posts in this thread) can be a really good part of the hobby. I've found a few youtubers (miniac, vince ventruellea, marco frisoni) really good watches and genuinely inspirational.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 11:49
|
|
|
I bought my airbrush solely for basing in yellow and its been mostly a success. I went with the badger 105 since I knew I wouldn't need a ton of precision. Someday I'd like to improve my skills but for now I'm content to just avoid layer after layer of yriel yellow
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 12:58
|
|
|
TheBigAristotle posted:I bought my airbrush solely for basing in yellow and its been mostly a success. I went with the badger 105 since I knew I wouldn't need a ton of precision. Someday I'd like to improve my skills but for now I'm content to just avoid layer after layer of yriel yellow I think an airbrush is basically mandatory for primarily yellow models. Like, you can do well with a brush but Jesus Christ it's so much time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 13:35
|
|
|
For airbrushing I tell people one year. It will take you about one year to be proficient enough to know every piece of the brush, understand the concepts enough to transfer them to other brushes, and get the feel for what "milk" means as far as all the online painting lunatics will tell you is the preferred consistencesy of paint. Things I've learned that I tell everyone about the airbrush: ♥ You can start with a cheap Master's airbrush off Amazon. It's not much of an investment and you're probably going to gently caress your first brush up something fierce learning the in's and outs. If you get a kit with a compressor, spring for a nicer compressor instead of one of the little "puck" comps. You may gently caress up your first airbrush, but a good compressor can outlive several brushes. ♥ If your airbrush isn't shooting paint, it's clogged. ♥ There is no wrong answer for PSI/Bar. It's whatever gets the job done. I know painters who constantly fiddle and tweak their airflow even with having regulators neair their brushes so they don't have to go to their compressor they do it so often. I know other amazing painters who crank that motherfucker to 40 PSI and just leave it there forever. ♥ You can use 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and it'll take care of most of the mess and dry quickly in cleaning out an airbrush. I know some people who swear by Windex and I did for several years, but I have suspicious about how healthy for that is for the airbrush because it's got ammonia in it. Just buy a bottle of airbrush cleaner. It's probably mostly Butyl alcohol, but it'll de-gunk the poo poo out of a brush in a hurry. ♥ You can 'soak' a brush after a heavy session (I know some people do, I just take off the needle/nozzle and toss them in an ultrasonic) but be careful about what chems you're using. Ken from Badger recommends white vinegar as being strong enough acid for paint, but will not in any way harm your brush or seals, at least for Badger brushes. Things I haven't seen anybody in this thread post: Quick Connect/Disconnects's Get Quick Disconnects for your brush(es). They're worth it. Airbrushes are usually made out of plated brass and screwing/unscrewing their threads will eventually wear and crack and god-forbid break off in your hose. Thats the end of your airbrushing sessions for quite sometime and will probably require a new hose as well as a new brush. DETAIL AIRBRUSHES (I saw somebody posting about having woes with a Badger SOTAR a few pages ago) I learned this recently from hanging out with Aaron Lovejoy, your detail airbrush is not your workhorse airbrush. If you have just a detail airbrush I hate to break it to you, but you're going to need a "general" airbrush. If you have a SOTAR without a nozzle conversion or "extra fine" nozzled airbrush you should really only be putting tints, inks, and extra-extra thinned paints through it. Just like your Patriot 105/Infinity/Grex is going to HATE putting paint from a GW Pot/Eyedropper Bottle directly into the Airbrush cup, your detail airbrush is going to choke and wheeze on regular "airbrush ready" paint. It's just not thin enough. I've sworn and cussed at my Sotar so many times about it clogging and never realized the problem is quite literally me. I switched to just Inks/clear tints back in March of this year and have *never* had a major clog or problem out of it since.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 16:28
|
|
|
The issue I keep having with my Sotar is that once I get the paint thinned down enough to actually flow through it, I end up with constant spidering on the model. How would one fix that?
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 18:18
|
|
|
Mikey Purp posted:The issue I keep having with my Sotar is that once I get the paint thinned down enough to actually flow through it, I end up with constant spidering on the model. How would one fix that? 1 of 2 things is happening. If you're getting like little spatters of paint when you initially hit the trigger that's stuff left over on your needle tip/crown that's getting spattered off. Doing a quick "tap-tap" blast of air into a rag or something generally dries off any wet/dry tip issues. You're probably having issues though where you're getting tiny little beads of paint like rain droplets when it hits the model? If this is the case your paint is probably too thin, it's got more water/medium in it than it does pigment and thats why it's being all hydro and beading up like that. Switching to a higher pigmented medium like inks is what I find solved this for me. Maybe using a proper acrylic medium along with a flow improver could fix this for you though? Ultimately though this is caused by having more anything else than paint.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 18:22
|
|
|
Are there any priming method that don't involve spray cans? I'm considering jumping back into the hobby after several years off, but I'm currently in a very small studio apartment with crap circulation, and I don't really have anywhere to spray minis. I've seen that some companies make paint-on primers, and I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 19:29
|
|
|
the_seventh_cohort posted:Are there any priming method that don't involve spray cans? I'm considering jumping back into the hobby after several years off, but I'm currently in a very small studio apartment with crap circulation, and I don't really have anywhere to spray minis. I've seen that some companies make paint-on primers, and I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with them. I use Vallejo black primer when I don't spray and it works fine. If you're not doing hordes of minis its not much of a hassle. Every light brush primer i've tried to use has been terrible - to the point where I find it easier to prime black and then paint a light GW base coat like Rakarth flesh or Celestra grey over it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 19:40
|
|
|
Stynylrez white works fine but you gotta do two coats.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 19:41
|
|
|
Brock Samsonite posted:
Yeah it's more this than the first one. Seems like rather than being sufficiently aerosolized so that the paint droplets hit the model and dry smoothly, they instead bead up and start spreading out across the model as they are pushed by the air. So it sounds like the paint is too thin, but if I thin it out less it clogs frequently or doesn't spray at all. I do use thinner rather than water to thin my paints, but maybe what I'll do next time is turn up the psi rather than add more thinner.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 19:45
|
|
|
If anyone is local to the greater Vancouver area, Colours Art Supplies in Port Coquitlam is having a going out of business sale right now until the 16th, and everything in the entire store is marked down to 70% off. Great chance to buy some brushes, paints, or pastels, or any other art supply you may need. https://www.facebook.com/coloursartportcoquitlam/
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 22:53
|
|
|
JBP posted:If you superglue wholesale rhinestones all over a Warhound I will buy you a forums upgrade of your choice Took me a while to get decent pictures, and these aren’t even great, because turns out rhinestones are a real nightmare to photograph. Don’t really need an upgrade, but any shameful redtext or avatar you want to put on PantsOptional would sit well with me.  This is Diamas and Pernula of Legio Paislax (The Weeping Doves). 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 23:38
|
|
|
 Had a go at converting a daedalosus , close enough ?
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 23:39
|
|
|
head58 posted:Took me a while to get decent pictures, and these aren’t even great, because turns out rhinestones are a real nightmare to photograph. I am surprised at how not bad that is. I don't think its actually good, but when I heard the plan I was expecting it to be way worse.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 23:45
|
|
|
If you Airbrush and aren’t using Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, you’re doing it wrong.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 23:50
|
|
|
R0ckfish posted:I am surprised at how not bad that is. I don't think its actually good, but when I heard the plan I was expecting it to be way worse. It actually looks even less bad in person. The stones just look lumpy in pics. Not good still mind you but I’m leaning hard into the stupid on this theme so it works.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 23:54
|
|
|
Yeast posted:If you Airbrush and aren’t using Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, you’re doing it wrong. I use it even when brushing normally. I still don't know what the thinner is for.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2019 00:26
|
|
|
I find the thinner works really well for metallics and inks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2019 00:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:13 |
|
|
Mikey Purp posted:I find the thinner works really well for metallics and inks. yep, I've used it for inks. I want that ink to tint the surface and dry near instantly so I can see what changes I'm making real quick.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2019 00:41
|
|