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Duzzy Funlop posted:Yeah, I know, that was the original reason for me pretty much all-but-discarding the more expansive mechanical keyboards from my in-store-browsing yesterday. I worked for one of the green-glowy periphery manufacturers quite a while back, and it gave me some serious reservations regarding the more expensive price segments. I've always gone for feel, basic functionality and value-for-money, so solid mech keyboards were never on my radar. Add to that the fact that my initial impression from back in the day was that mech keyboards were only for pro-gaming nerds, and there we are. Tactiles are the best. Those romer-g switches are fairly weird, they were designed to have a light pipe thru the center, but they have dual contact leafs so their lifetime should be great. Logitech collabed with Omron to create them, afaik. A big downside is lack of custom keycaps. A lot of keyboards do Fn+Win key to disable the windows key, my redragon even has an LED to indicate it's off. Logitech leans hard on it being a gamer feature for a hard disable switch.
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Sep 19, 2019 14:15
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Yeah, Romer-G is weird and mushy to me, but again, this hobby is all about personal preference. Of all the gaming peripheral software out there, Logitech has the best and least obtrusive one. Just check my post history and how loving terrible Corsair Cue/iCue is. gently caress Corsair.
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Sep 19, 2019 14:21
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Speaking of loving Corsair, I’d like to replace my keyboard with a TKL, are there any with USB-C connections that also do passthrough at full speed? I think theres that Massdrop one but I think its only 2.0 speeds.
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Sep 19, 2019 14:41
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ijyt posted:Speaking of loving Corsair, I’d like to replace my keyboard with a TKL, are there any with USB-C connections that also do passthrough at full speed? I think theres that Massdrop one but I think its only 2.0 speeds. I too lament the paucity of keyboards with USB passthrough, but what are you considering connecting through your keyboard that would need USB 3/Thunderbolt speeds?
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Sep 19, 2019 17:55
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:I too lament the paucity of keyboards with USB passthrough, but what are you considering connecting through your keyboard that would need USB 3/Thunderbolt speeds? Personally I'd prefer an implementation using a built in hub like the Apple keyboards with a USB port on each side, but the single dumb passthrough port like a K95 Platinum works too.
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Sep 19, 2019 18:23
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:I too lament the paucity of keyboards with USB passthrough, but what are you considering connecting through your keyboard that would need USB 3/Thunderbolt speeds? External storage really, I might end up with a mITX build that wouldn't have much space for storage drives, and I'd probably move my photos and poo poo to a portable drive. I just can't be bothered reaching towards the back of the case 
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Sep 19, 2019 19:22
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Oh yeah, that could be pretty useful. I wonder how expensive it would be to make a USB 3 keyboard with passthrough.
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Sep 19, 2019 22:19
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A real quick look says the newest USB3 4-device hub ICs from TI are < $7.
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Sep 19, 2019 22:30
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You guys are thinking too small. You can plug more keyboards into your keyboard.
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Sep 19, 2019 22:49
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Aphrodite posted:You guys are thinking too small. You can plug more keyboards into your keyboard. tbf you still don't really need USB3 speeds for that. Now the power draw on your tri level LED setup? Hmmm....
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Sep 20, 2019 00:34
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You don't have an SSD in your keyboard?
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Sep 20, 2019 01:07
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Ssh, taqueso. You'll ruin my ability to conduct industrial espionage with impunity.
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Sep 20, 2019 16:47
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I'm looking to upgrade my lovely generic HP pack-in keyboard at work with something a bit nicer. I bought a Corsair K70 with Cherry MX Browns on sale years ago and I've enjoyed it, so I figured I'd go mechanical again. I use the keypad every day, so I need a full sized keyboard. I've seen some weird "90%" keyboards (my coworkers mostly use the Microsoft Designer Bluetooth keyboard/mouse set (and they are awful oh my god that mouse) where the keypad/arrow keys/that one block of keys with insert and delete and stuff are all smooshed up to the main set so it's technically a little less wide- I'd prefer the standard 100% but if those are cheaper some some weird reason I could live with it. Also, to my great shame, I am a hunt and peck typist. When I type on that Corsair with the browns it sounds like hail on a tin rooftop and/or a room full of 1920s stenographers. From that I'm assuming I probably need linear switches and quite possibly some o-rings. Finally, because this is a bit of a luxury upgrade I'm paying out of pocket for it, so cheaper without sacrificing too much quality is a general rule. I don't need something manufactured out of SpaceX titanium grid fins that can be used wirelessly 70 miles away by throwing bowling balls on it from the top of Mount Everest. tl;dr *Cheap but not garbage-that-breaks-in-a-week cheap *Loud typist needs quiet keyboard *Keypad required also if anyone has any general advice on good ways to learn touch typing that aren't "take a class at the community college" feel free to post them 
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Sep 20, 2019 18:37
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GruntyThrst posted:also if anyone has any general advice on good ways to learn touch typing that aren't "take a class at the community college" feel free to post them I like Typing Club.
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Sep 20, 2019 18:46
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Bottoming out linears is still going to be significantly louder than rubber domes, so if "quiet as a rubber dome" is a hard requirement then you'll need to practice until you can type on reds without bottoming out. Browns should be fine too if you don't bottom them out but honestly, if that's where you are and you don't want to put a ton of effort into retraining yourself to type, you might just want to stick with a rubber dome (or scissor keys, which are way nicer than rubber domes IMO and nearly as cheap).
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Sep 20, 2019 20:52
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Do people actually learn not to bottom out on browns? They're too light for that to be practical imo, the simpler solution is to get dampened switches (cherry mx silents, zilents, etc)
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Sep 20, 2019 21:02
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SoftNum posted:tbf you still don't really need USB3 speeds for that. ...or, make a thing that looks like a keyboard to the computer but isn't. For my multimedia key replacement, I used a rotary knob with pushbutton along with a Teensy (like an Arduino but smaller) and turn it into a thing that sends volume-up, volume-down, and mute. Viola, second "keyboard". My next stunt is using a Raspberry Pi 0 to read a few encoders and buttons for hotkeys and crap for my schematic capture / PCB layout software. Because why not have a keypad that runs Linux?
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Sep 20, 2019 22:39
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Dielectric posted:...or, make a thing that looks like a keyboard to the computer but isn't. For my multimedia key replacement, I used a rotary knob with pushbutton along with a Teensy (like an Arduino but smaller) and turn it into a thing that sends volume-up, volume-down, and mute. Viola, second "keyboard". Isn't this basically what QMK keyboards are doing?
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Sep 21, 2019 18:48
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SteelSeries made a hall effect board and thomas reviewed it. The hall effect switches don't cover the whole board, just the main cluster. Function keys, arrow keys, num pad are standard gateron reds. They also put in so much unneccessary poo poo (OLED screen, volume wheel, macro functionality, full RGB, USB pass-through) that they had to put *two* ARM mcu's on the pcb. And the PC-side software is apparently hot garbage. e: and it's expensive af mewse fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Sep 21, 2019 |
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Sep 21, 2019 22:00
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SoftNum posted:Isn't this basically what QMK keyboards are doing? Pretty much, but for just a few buttons and rotaries it was easier for me to do it from scratch, my way. Of course, with the EDA keypad running Linux, I went ahead and wrote the program in Python. The Pi 0 can run as a USB device, so it enumerates as a keyboard after booting up. I am a very bad person for doing all of this, but there's no kill like overkill.
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Sep 22, 2019 04:18
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Dielectric posted:Pretty much, but for just a few buttons and rotaries it was easier for me to do it from scratch, my way. Of course, with the EDA keypad running Linux, I went ahead and wrote the program in Python. The Pi 0 can run as a USB device, so it enumerates as a keyboard after booting up. I am a very bad person for doing all of this, but there's no kill like overkill. Can the pi 0 run as a USB device while also having USB devices connected to it, like could it both access a flash drive and pass it thru to pc
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Sep 22, 2019 04:58
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mewse posted:SteelSeries made a hall effect board and thomas reviewed it. This is a pretty disingenuous take of his review. The screen, volume wheel, macro, RGB, and USB have nothing to do with why there are two ARM's on it. He says in the video that those are there to monitor the Hall switch's output. He really likes the keyboard, enjoys the RGB, understands why he thinks it is that the entire keyboard isn't Hall switch's. The screen is eh I agree, but why not. It is expensive yes, he said 230 retail.
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Sep 22, 2019 06:06
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shovelbum posted:Can the pi 0 run as a USB device while also having USB devices connected to it, like could it both access a flash drive and pass it thru to pc No. The Pi 0 only has a single USB port wired for data, the second one is power-only, and it can be either a host or a device at any given time but not both. The same applies to the 3A+ and I think the 1A. With those you also need to build or acquire a non-compliant USB A to A cable and there's some boot config trickery required to put the port in the right mode because the A connector doesn't have the fifth pin found on micro-B and micro-AB for identifying OTG use. Pi 4 can act as a device from its Type C port while still hosting on its Type A ports.
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Sep 22, 2019 16:48
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So I'm probably an idiot but I bought into the Woo-dy kickstarter. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/woo-dy/woo-dy-a-67-keys-mechanical-keyboard-that-is-breathing I plunked down $110 for a walnut then a few weeks later they announced that for JUST AND ADDITIONAL $30 they'd add a battery. tha gently caress? how was it supposed to work wireless otherwise? Apparently they expected you to connect it to a battery pack. Now I'm realizing it doesn't appear to even have an off switch and I'm getting Anne Pro flashbacks.
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Sep 25, 2019 01:56
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
Hahaha, they couldn't have wedged a laptop battery in the bottom?
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Sep 25, 2019 02:09
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:So I'm probably an idiot but I bought into the Woo-dy kickstarter. Hey at least you'll be getting.. gateron key caps??
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Sep 25, 2019 02:49
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I mean I figure it's a good starting point for a project. Nice wooden base and metal plate with hot swappable switches. I can probably hack in a cell phone battery, charging circuit, and power switch.
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Sep 25, 2019 16:27
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That keyboard software screenshot looks like a re-skin of the one that comes with the iGK61/iGK64. I think you're in for a bad time my friend. EDIT: It is. LOL  
Constellation I fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Sep 25, 2019 |
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Sep 25, 2019 18:06
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As a regular user of a GK61 I can confirm that software is trash. After a Windows reinstall I now have the quirk of having to unplug my keyboard and plug it back in after logging in for the software to recognize it at times. The only good thing about the board is that I got to try out a 60% for 40 bucks and I learned that I don't hate it.
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Sep 26, 2019 15:21
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Ok so I am looking for my first mechanical keyboard after years (decades?) of cheap £10 boards that last about year. I've read/watched as much as I can find/bear on the subject but have no actual experience of using them beyond a quick play with other people's board at LANs etc. I want a full sized keyboard and cheaper is better (Ideally £50-£90, but I'll go above £100 if there is a huge leap in quality) I'll be using it for general use, gaming, typing, internet, spreadsheets, everything. RGB is a nice bonus feature to have but I don't really care about it. Effective light up keys that you can actually see properly in the dark at an angle is more important but again not a deal breaker. Don't want clicky keys. Being a good gaming keyboard is probably the most important aspect for me so linear or tactile with high actuation points seem attractive? I was looking at possibly the Kailh coppers on one of those PC gaming master race keyboards. Getting one of those shipped would cost me £115 which is at the higher end of my budget, I would rather spend less but if the quality really demands it I could be pushed to slightly more. Does anyone here have experience of the GMMK? What's the quality like? How is it day to day? Any issues I should know about? I like the idea of having easily swappable switches in an expensive board so if I really didn't like the Kailh coppers I could just get new switches without having to buy anothe £100+ keyboard On the other hand, ideally I only want to spend about £60 if I can get away with something good enough at that price pont. I have my eye on this Logitech G413 for £55 Which has nice clear lighting, isn't too garish and has those Romer-G switches I hear mixed things about. There is also this Corsair K70 with cherry browns for £60 which may or may not be better for the money? edit: Also is this any good? https://www.scan.co.uk/products/hyperx-alloy-fps-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-kailh-speed-switches-rgb-n-key-rollover-anti-ghosting-us Please advise if you have knowledge of any boards which would be better for me or have any experience using the boards mentioned above. Or just advice in general. edit2: I just tried to use the drop/massdrop website and oh my god what an insufferable piece of poo poo just give me a loving list of your products I don't want to read your loving pinterest page Immortal Wombat fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Sep 26, 2019 |
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Sep 26, 2019 16:53
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My latest stack of PCBs is coming in today. Hooray! A coworker at New Job has asked - politely - that I not bring a clicky board in. BOX Ancient Grey switches, 316 stainless switch and baseplates, SA caps. Should be alright.
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Sep 26, 2019 17:41
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Tell your cooworker to grow a pair.
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Sep 27, 2019 01:18
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Immortal Wombat posted:Ok so I am looking for my first mechanical keyboard after years (decades?) of cheap £10 boards that last about year. If you click the ? to see my posts in here, your can read through my brief journey not two weeks ago regarding basically the same questions/issues you're currently looking into. I eventually chose the G901, though I assume those keys may already be a bit on the "clickier" side from what you wrote.
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Sep 27, 2019 03:21
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Null of Undefined posted:Ordered a Pok3r with mx silver switches since I don't think my new coworkers will appreciate the pok3r with blues that I use right now. Sup pok3r blues annoying typist buddy. I love mine.
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Sep 28, 2019 12:59
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Sup pok3r blues annoying typist buddy. I love mine. Now that I've been using the Silvers all day every day at work, when I come home and type on my blues or clears it feels like I have to press so hard.
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Sep 28, 2019 18:46
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My new work board. Stainless plates, my Mark III circuitry, SA Leviathan caps, and BOX Ancient Grey switches.
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Sep 29, 2019 02:02
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That's cool as hell.Null of Undefined posted:Now that I've been using the Silvers all day every day at work, when I come home and type on my blues or clears it feels like I have to press so hard.
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Sep 29, 2019 02:34
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Exit Strategy posted:My new work board. Stainless plates, my Mark III circuitry, SA Leviathan caps, and BOX Ancient Grey switches. Man, my shipping is being completely messed up on SA Leviathan. Tracking code shows it’s been going back and forth between two cities for a week. It just arrived at Shanghai today. That said, I’m not in a hurry, still need to decide on which board I’m going to out them.
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Sep 29, 2019 12:42
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:That's cool as hell. I really do
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Sep 29, 2019 17:12
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:That's cool as hell. I'll admit I took a different path to Endgame than most - My "Endgame" is having the parts to build this one keyboard, in as many variations as necessary, forever.
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Sep 29, 2019 19:03
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