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tater_salad posted:Can you provide a video of the noise or at least some kind of description? I got a video of the noise. It's the chuga chuga chuga chuga noise. https://vimeo.com/361302920
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Sep 20, 2019 15:20
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You have an exhaust leak. Probably a leak at either the manifold itself (exhaust manifold gasket or cracked manifold), or where the manifold connects to the rest of the exhaust. Easy fix, just a little time consuming since exhaust fasteners tend to rust pretty bad due to the heat. It's fine to take on a road trip, just keep in mind it'll eventually get worse. Eventually to where it's constant, and eventually to where it'll affect mileage (and probably cause a check engine light at that point). You should still be checking the oil at least a couple of times a month, on ANY vehicle. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Sep 20, 2019 |
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Sep 20, 2019 15:49
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Okay great, thanks! I'll definitely get it checked out by my mechanic when I get back. Road trip is less than 700 miles round trip, so it's not like I'm going to be driving it across the country.
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Sep 20, 2019 15:55
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How about another Mazda suspension(?) problem for ya'll: 2016 CX-5 <10,000 miles About a week ago I noticed a steady whine/squeal/sqeak coming from the right rear of the car. To my uneducated ear it sounds like metal on metal contact, like some part of the suspension is resting on some part of the drive train. The noise doesn't appreciably change pitch or volume with engine RPM or wheel speed. Applying brake causes the noise to stop but it returns 1-2 seconds after letting off the brake pedal. It will also stop when hitting a bump like a bridge expansion gap, sometimes for just a few seconds sometimes for a few minutes. The other day when getting out of the car after this had been happening I noticed a very distinct metallic clicking or girding noise coming from the right rear suspension. Rocking the car by hand produced this noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmCJuI-TbCY&feature=youtu.be I'm taking the car in to have it looked at in a few hours, any guesses as to what's wrong or how screwed I am?
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Sep 20, 2019 17:47
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My guess is brakes. And/or combination of a incorrectly torqued wheel. There is a hell of lot of going on in the corner of car with brakes. And hitting something can bend the dust shield "just enough" when weight shifts when taking a corner. Perhaps a bad caliper, etc.
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Sep 20, 2019 18:39
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C-Bangin' it 
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Pebble stuck in brake dust shield?
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Sep 20, 2019 20:21
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Colostomy Bag posted:My guess is brakes. Ding ding ding. Rear pads and rotors are hosed. There's a TSB out for the ebrake because apparently it doesn't disengage fully sometimes. When my dealer had the tires rotated a few months ago they made no mention of it. So apparently my car needs new pads, rotors, and calipers and it went out of warranty literally 5 days ago.  Edit: http://imgur.com/gallery/sa8Kbmb KodiakRS fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Sep 20, 2019 |
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Sep 20, 2019 20:28
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KodiakRS posted:Ding ding ding. Rear pads and rotors are hosed. There's a TSB out for the ebrake because apparently it doesn't disengage fully sometimes. When my dealer had the tires rotated a few months ago they made no mention of it. One of those times you ask nicely since there is a TSB and SA made no mention of it, and then become somewhat of an rear end in a top hat if no helpy.
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Sep 20, 2019 20:40
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KodiakRS posted:Ding ding ding. Rear pads and rotors are hosed. There's a TSB out for the ebrake because apparently it doesn't disengage fully sometimes. When my dealer had the tires rotated a few months ago they made no mention of it. Welp, https://www.rockauto.com
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Sep 20, 2019 21:07
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I have a 2012 Kia Rio LX 1.6L Hatchback. It has 90k miles, and I will be getting my 90k service next week. My check engine light came on, and it was a knock sensor code. My brother explained pre-ignition to me, and as it has been hot, I could help by running premium gas, and I have, and the light went off. I've also noticed that my mpg has steadily went down over time. Does this sound like it could be carbon buildup on the intake valves since it is a GDI engine, and something like CRC GDI Intake Valve spray could make a difference for both the mpg and pre-ignition knocking? I also became aware of this KIA TSB http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Kia_Rio_UB_TSB146.pdf Appreciate any thoughts, trying to be an educated car owner when I step into the stealership.
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Sep 20, 2019 21:56
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Got to love the law of unintended consequences.
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Sep 20, 2019 22:01
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Two stupid questions: I recent purchased a NC Miata that sits a little too low for my jack to approach from the front to a central jacking point. I can kind of get it under the sides, but the jack plate basically covers the entire pinch weld, so I'm not sure how to get a stand under there at the same time. What am I missing? My Saabaru has a grinding noise coming from the front wheel area - anyway to tell if this a CV joint vs a wheel bearing, or something else?
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Sep 20, 2019 22:10
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blk posted:Two stupid questions: A piece of 2x6 to drive up on before jacking. Or a suspension lift.
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Sep 20, 2019 22:19
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Yep, buy a board.
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Sep 20, 2019 22:27
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New page bump: 92 ram van, speedometer seems to have temporarily lost its relationship with reality. 3/2018 through last Friday: speedometer read ~4 mph above gps speed Saturday: dead on actual speed Sunday: speedo read 35, gps indicated 50 Monday: speedo read 20, gps indicated 30 It has since roughly settled back to ~5 over like it used to be, but this experience was vaguely horrifying. Both of the hugely different ones were on empty roads at night so I had no other vehicles to compare with, so i have no idea if this is my actual vehicle or just the GPS in my phone taking a poo poo. Is this how a speed sensor fails? This is an electronically controlled speedo, not the cable kind. At no point did it freak out and wiggle around wildly like my gas gauge likes to do, it just points to a consistently (within a given drive, anyway) incorrect value.
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Sep 20, 2019 22:32
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Javid posted:New page bump: Yes, replace the VSS. I'm the type that doesn't like to toss parts at things "unless I'm in there" but should be a simple repair.
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Sep 20, 2019 22:41
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Bored As gently caress posted:I got a video of the noise. It's the chuga chuga chuga chuga noise. Hold up. Those are known for catastrophic lifter failure that wipes out the cam lobe particularly at higher mileage. Get that checked out right away.
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Sep 20, 2019 22:41
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blk posted:What am I missing? The subforum standard Harbor Freight aluminum racing jack.
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Sep 20, 2019 23:11
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rdb posted:Hold up. Those are known for catastrophic lifter failure that wipes out the cam lobe particularly at higher mileage. Get that checked out right away. Seconding this. An exhaust leak sounds like. "Fft fffft fft" This is more of a "skeleton loving" sound which is internal metal slapping around and not good and can lead to much worse noises.
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Sep 20, 2019 23:39
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tater_salad posted:Seconding this. It's so hard to tell from a video. But I'm hearing skeletons loving. It absolutely could still be an exhaust leak. You can diagnose this poo poo over the internet.
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Sep 20, 2019 23:59
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Well poo poo now I also heard a potential exhaust leak.
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Sep 21, 2019 01:17
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rdb posted:Hold up. Those are known for catastrophic lifter failure that wipes out the cam lobe particularly at higher mileage. Get that checked out right away. So what does that mean in English? I only have 48k miles on this Ram 1500 here.
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Sep 21, 2019 01:23
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Lifters operate valves the cam operates the lifters. Watch a YouTube of basic gasoline engine operation If the lifter kills your cam your repair goes from $$$ to 2x$$$+. And your vehicle will be not be drivable.
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Sep 21, 2019 01:30
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Bored As gently caress posted:So what does that mean in English? I only have 48k miles on this Ram 1500 here. Your engine has a camshaft with eccentric lobes. Roller lifters ride on the camshaft and act upon a pushrod which pushes on a rocker arm and opens a valve. This lets air in and out of the cylinder. When a lifter fails, it drags on the camshaft and wears out the peak of the lobe. This causes a ticking sound from excessive valve lash and eventually a misfire. Failed lifters are what usually kills a 5.7 hemi. It can sound like what your hearing. It won’t go away as the engine warms up. Its not a cheap fix, but if you catch it early enough its cheaper.
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Sep 21, 2019 01:38
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tater_salad posted:Well poo poo now I also heard a potential exhaust leak. Yep, the ticking sound.
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Sep 21, 2019 01:46
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So issues with my Jeep. My voltage is all over the place. 96' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. While idle my voltage is way lower than normal. I do have issues with my battery, but even when I charge my battery to full the voltage is below normal. Randomly while driving, the voltage will say it spikes and it will randomly drop back down to normal levels. The alternator is a re-manufactured and was purchased maybe like 3 or 4 years ago. Also have issues with starting it sometimes where even slightly keeping my foot on the gas pedal is enough to get the engine started and keep it revving under 1k. Should I be looking at a new starter as well? It probably hasn't been replaced in the life of the vehicle.  
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Sep 21, 2019 01:54
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So if the noise goes away after heating up, it's most likely an exhaust leak, and not the cam shaft / possible catastrophic issue? I work tomorrow and I'm not going to be able to take it in before leaving for the trip. I only have 48k miles on the truck. A lot of people on different YouTube videos and forums say the noise is often a broken bolt from the exhaust manifold (or from the aluminum casing around it).
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Sep 21, 2019 01:57
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SlayVus posted:So issues with my Jeep. My voltage is all over the place. 96' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Have you actually measured the voltage, or are you just going off the dash gauge? I ask because it's possible the gauge itself or a sending unit is faulty, rather than anything else in the charging system. If the engine is turning over well, your starter is fine. A bad starter would be indicated by turning the key and nothing happening, despite a charged battery. Hard starting (as in it turns over but doesn't catch and run) could be caused by a bunch of different things.
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Sep 21, 2019 02:06
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SlayVus posted:So issues with my Jeep. My voltage is all over the place. 96' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. alternator shot, battery is probably done as well.
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Sep 21, 2019 02:15
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SlayVus posted:So issues with my Jeep. My voltage is all over the place. 96' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Do your lights seem significantly brighter when the voltage spikes?
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Sep 21, 2019 14:36
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I need to glue a piece of weather stripping back on. Its on an RV trailer, around the opening for the slide out. The weather stripping is rubber, or whatever passes for rubber these days, and the outer shell of the RV is Aluminum, probably powder coated. I thought of using the same kind of poo poo thats used to glue windshields on, but if we ever need to remove it, that'll be hard as gently caress. So, please recommend me a good, general purpose automotive adhesive that will work on something like this. It'll be mostly outdoor use. Thanks goonie goons.
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Sep 21, 2019 16:32
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wesleywillis posted:I need to glue a piece of weather stripping back on. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08031-Fast-Tack-Adhesive/dp/B000CQ4AKS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 You should be able to find it (or similar) at any auto parts store. It sticks really well, but won't pull off paint if you need to remove it later.
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Sep 21, 2019 16:42
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We just purchased a car from a dealership. We noticed a slight cigarette smoke smell when we test drove it and the next morning the cigarette smoke smell had filled the entire cabin. Any tips, tricks or ideas to get rid of the smell? Edit: We have already febreezed the car, bombed the car (a thing that sprays the car for a little while), and my wife put apple slices and vanilla in there as well but it is still there. Bizarro Kanyon fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Sep 22, 2019 |
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Sep 22, 2019 16:02
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Bizarro Kanyon posted:We just purchased a car from a dealership. We noticed a slight cigarette smoke smell when we test drove it and the next morning the cigarette smoke smell had filled the entire cabin. Ozone generator is what you need.
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Sep 22, 2019 16:20
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So rust on the car got sidelined with fixing my brakes. On a hot day in July while driving home, one of my front discs seized. With the help of a old gaffer, Lloyd, who's a coworker of mine, we fixed the front discs, took the works apart and cleaned them up, and Lloyd even had a pair of new brake pads sitting around. Brake became spongy, though. I'm thinking me and Lloyd didn't do a good job bleeding them. My rear drums have been not very good for a very long time, and now I know how to clean up parts, and I hear parts for drums are cheap. So I take my right rear drum apart, replace the shoes and some of the springs with a kit. Of course, I leak more brake fluid while doing this, and the brakes are now silly soft - they work more or less normal fucntion if you put the brake pedel to the floor. So, I resolve myself to bleed the system properly. Then I discover that the right rear brake bleed screw is frozen on in a really awkward spot. Lots of effort later, it is still on there, partially stripped. My next days off from work, I ask Lloyd if he'd like to help. This doesn't go well, as Lloyd is kind of a negative thinker; he first thinks there is a hydraulic leak, and gets me to pump the brakes to test. We'd both forgotten that the drum cover on the right rear was off, so my new brake shoes are ruined with the resulting gout of brake fluid. Lloyd had some medical things to do that afternoon, so I take apart the drum brake and my wheel bearing, thinking the solution is to take the backplate off. This turns into a plus, as my wheel bearing comes apart, has some play in it, and was leaving marks on the....axle? The metal shaft the bearing was on. Still, Lloyd wanted me to just remove the brake cylinder, which I didn't understand because he didn't tell me the bleeder valve is in the brake cylinder, not the backplate, which makes sense in retrospect. Lloyd is now convinced there's air in the master cylinder, which is a possibility, I guess, but from what Lloyd told me, the brakes don't work at all when that happens, and mine were still working, abet shitily. I have real questions [is this what a worn wheel bearing looks like, what's the deal with brake bleeding, is Lloyd right about air in the master cylinder] but I'd also like to open the floor for people to shout advice at me, the nublet mechanic, on his long day's journey into rust
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Sep 23, 2019 14:05
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Explain where and why any hydraulic lines were remove during either "repair" and what you did afterwards.
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Sep 23, 2019 14:12
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What's the car? Did you keep brake fluid topped off in the MC while bleeding (quite important). At the minimum, I'd replace both rear cylinders.
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Sep 23, 2019 14:13
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Motronic posted:Explain where and why any hydraulic lines were remove during either "repair" and what you did afterwards. no hydraulic lines were removed Colostomy Bag posted:What's the car? 2005 Honda Civic The rear cylinders (to my nublet eyes) appear to have been replaced not very long ago, so they seem fine? I have heard people say that as they are cheap anyway you should replace them when you are working there
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Sep 23, 2019 14:37
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Well your post is kind of confusing because you are saying fluid is spraying everywhere. Where is it coming from?
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Sep 23, 2019 14:39
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Nebakenezzer posted:no hydraulic lines were removed Then why were you bleeding anything? It's reasonable to crack the bleeders when retracting calipers, but not something I'd suggest to a first time home gamer, but it's not even clear if that's what you have done. As far as getting spongier when you did the rears......I need to know if you tried to bleed those and, especially if not, if any fluid was leaking. If there wasn't and bleeding or fluid leaks, your brakes are spongier because the rear drums are improperly adjusted.
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Sep 23, 2019 14:51
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